Confusion about RBG with an XD5 + XC7 + 9/10 fans

[Redub]

Hello,

 

I am currently in the process of building my first custom loop build in the 5000x case. I have a few concerns in regards to the fan/rgb situation I need some help on prior to my packages arrival though. 

 

(I messed up a few times properly measuring and bending my hardline tubes despite having the kit so I’m waiting for more tubes to try again 😅) 

Parts involved:

XD5 Pump/Res

XC7 CPU water block

Gigabyte 3080 Gaming OC Waterforce

2x 360mm XR5 Radiators, each rad with 3x ML120mm pro rbg fans 

3x SP RBG Elite fans (included with the 5000X case)

1x ML120 pro rbg fan 

(Lemme know if any other specs need to be listed) 

Additionally I do have a Commander Pro, 2x RGB Fan Led Hubs,  2x Lighting Node Pros and the case included hubs as well

 

After reading through various posts including Zotty’s detailed guides, I attempted to diagram out how these things will all connect. If I can piece out this puzzle prior to the build being complete I imagine I’ll have a much easier time managing the million cables it feels like it has.  

 

Excuse the sloppy fan control lines, I have various splitters that should allow it to fill out the Commander Pro as needed. I am mostly concerned about the RBG situation. 

Will this layout work?

Can I plug in 2 RGB Fan Led Hubs into 1 Lighting node Pro then into to the Commander Pro? Or 1 hub per 1 node? Can these be consolidated in any otherway?

 

I also have 1 more ML120mm Fan that I’d like to set up as one more exhaust but I’m not sure how easily I can set it up considering the RBG hub for the ML fans is already 6/6. 

Do I consider another hub for this one fan? I technically do still have the case included Lighting Node Core(I think?)? Or is there like an RGB splitter I could use. 

 

I’m kinda worried about having 6 fans intaking air (3 front 3 side) but only 3 fans exhausting through the top radiator. 

 

I appreciate any and all the help. 

 

 

[c-attack]

One radiator is top exhaust.  What are you doing with the other one?  Side or front, you don't want it to exhaust into the top radiator.  You are feeding waste heat that is nearly equal in temperature to the liquid inside.  That will nullify the cooling up top.  If it fits, side exhaust will eliminate that problem.

 

You need 3 RGB channels, regardless of how you split the fans.  1 ch for pump/CPU block.  Then however you split the 9 fans into two groups.  Because the ML-Pro are 4 LED and the SP-Elite 8 LEDs, you likely want the ML on one RGB hub/channel and the 3 SP-E on the other.  This will be necessary for clean programming.  All of the light patterns are based on a specific LED count per fan.  

 

The USB connectors on the Commander Pro are pass-through only.  There is no device to device communication there, so it does not matter which gets connected where.  All the info is heading back through the MB and to the software.  If this is an Intel MB, you shouldn't have any issue using the passthroughs.  If it's a recent AMD board, then you may have connection issues. Use direct to MB connections if possible.  Otherwise you need a powered USB hub to handle the required connections.  

[Latharion]

I have a similar setup, sans the RGB.  Mine is a 5000D Airflow, but I am using ML 120 fans throughout (10 in total).  I placed one of the XR5 rads at the top and the other XR5 rad on the side.  I have the front and side fans ( 6 total) as intake and the rear and top (4 total) as exhaust.   This maintains a positive total air pressure environment.  It works great. 

The claims that  people often have regarding pulling through one rad and exhausting through another is a bit over-exaggerated.  The truth is that unless the user is running the system in an 100% load condition, the airflow through the rads will be more than enough, when combined with the liquid flow rate, to remove the waste heat from the rads.  It shouldn't be a huge concern one way or the other overall. 

The issues that I encountered that I would mention include being sure to thoroughly rinse all of the radiators before installation.  Also, when first filling the loop, be sure to remove the 4-pin PWM connector that is attached to the pump.  This ensures the loop will fill and flow at max flow rate while filling and removing air.  Remember to plug it back in when done.  Also, leak-test the loop by running the loop without the system being on or connected to any power at all.  The liquid used for cooling is usually non-conductive so as long as no power is running through the system, no permanent damage should occur if a leak happens.

 

[LeDoyen]

with a 3080 you will see a difference, granted it may not be much since in your case you have a lot of fresh air coming in.

Someone who has rads in front of all the intakes will see a bigger difference since all the air coming in will be warmer. It entirely depends on the build. For you it's barely noticeable, in my case going from 2 intake+1 exhaust to 1 intake+2exhaust and flipping the exhaust fan to intake, i gained a good 2°C on water temperature at fixed fan speed, which is huge when it comes to watercooling.

That did cut about 200 rpm in fan speed (average 1300 rpm instead of 1500 for the same water temp). Fan orientation can be the difference between a noisy and a silent build 🙂