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My Corsair Hydro Series H80i V2 likes to throttle


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For ~three years, I don't recall this ever being an issue.  It's important to note that for all this time, I have been running Folding@Home since 9/2016.  In the last ~18 months, it's been throttling wildly.  HWiNFO64 V7.06-4500 doesn't show any wild temp fluctuations on the CPU or GPU.  Nothing, at least, that would warrant immediate RPM changes in the radiators stock dual fans.  Yet, that's what they do.

In this PC, I'm running a 2080Super, if that helps.  If I stop the folding, the radiator fans settle down, AND don't throttle any.  When I enable folding again, the rad fans usually steadily increase, sometimes not, like, right now where the room temp is 78F.  That's fine; it's when the rad fans start to fluctuate frequently that irritates me..  BTW, the rad fans are tame when at ~750rpm.  It's when they jump to 950rpm that gets to me.

My case has 5 140mm(3 intake, 2 top exhaust) Noctua fans that all run off of a 4-ch fan controller.  All of these fans run at whatever speed I set them to, and do NOT change speed w/o my input. 

Does anyone have some advice?   Does anyone need more info?

 

Thanks for reading

 

0727211027b.jpg

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(Windows Key + Shift + S) == Pretty Screen Shot.

As for your cooler's behavior, the screen doesn't tell us anything that we need to know, in particular the coolant temperature in the cooler. You don't mention which cooler you have but it sounds like it's an H100i V2 or an H115i and it's hitting 40C coolant temperature.

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2 hours ago, DevBiker said:

(Windows Key + Shift + S) == Pretty Screen Shot.

As for your cooler's behavior, the screen doesn't tell us anything that we need to know, in particular the coolant temperature in the cooler. You don't mention which cooler you have but it sounds like it's an H100i V2 or an H115i and it's hitting 40C coolant temperature.

Actually, I see in the title that it's an H80i V2. Same family/generation so same behavior ... if the coolant hits 40C, the fans go to 100%. And the stock fans at 100% do bear an uncanny resemblance to a 737 taking off.

So .. we (or you) really need to get a look at that coolant temp.

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1 hour ago, DevBiker said:

Actually, I see in the title that it's an H80i V2. Same family/generation so same behavior ... if the coolant hits 40C, the fans go to 100%. And the stock fans at 100% do bear an uncanny resemblance to a 737 taking off.

So .. we (or you) really need to get a look at that coolant temp.

Damn, DevBiker that is truly some helpful info, no joke, yo!  iCue reports my coolant temp(at least I think that's what the temp sensor is reading) as 40C / 104F.  Sure as shit, my fans haven't reached DC9/MD80(I'm going w/ these planes as my dad spent his career working on them.  lol) levels quite yet.  But, they are getting there.  Room temp is at 76F.

I've been itching to pull the trigger on a 280mm AIO for some time, now.  But never wanted to, for fear my issue w/ even a new AIO would surface.  I can't have this.  This is the 1st time I'm feeling more confident that what I need is a higher C/w capable AIO.

I've been shopping them recently.  I've been eyeballin' brands Corsair, NZXT, EVGA, Thermaltake............all 280mm AIO's.  Might you have any thoughts on any of these or even something else?  Would love to hear your thoughts. 

I might even entertain replacing the Corsair rad fans w/ a pair of my beloved brand by Noctua.  If you know of a cheaper solution, fans wise, do tell.  lol

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5 hours ago, DevBiker said:

(Windows Key + Shift + S) == Pretty Screen Shot.

As for your cooler's behavior, the screen doesn't tell us anything that we need to know, in particular the coolant temperature in the cooler. You don't mention which cooler you have but it sounds like it's an H100i V2 or an H115i and it's hitting 40C coolant temperature.

Yep, it is hitting 40C, but on a Corsair Hydro Series H80i V2.  I learned that HWiNFO64 was reporting the wrong AIO fan speeds!  Not 765-965rpm's, but, more like 1950-2400+ rpm's.  Wowsa.....

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There are a couple of things that we can look at before we replace the AIO.

First - the mounting. In most installations, this cooler will be mounted on the rear exhaust, right above the motherboard and set to exhaust. The problem here is that the GPU is right under it ... so GPU waste heat is actually getting sucked through the radiator. That's bad, especially with a powerful GPU like the 2080 Super. Try doing something crazy - reverse the fans to intake and pull the outside air in over the radiator.

Second - HWInfo is probably reporting the speed from the CPU Fan Header. This isn't the same as the speed of the fans. It's 1/2 of the pump speed. Now - one thing about this generation of pumps is that they are powered from the CPU Fan Header and they require the full 12V at all times. This means that you have to either set the header to PWM or to full speed at all times (or both if you just want to be sure). That particular gotcha has caused all manner of grief as most BIOSes attempt to control it as a 3-pin DC fan ... altering the voltage. That's not good. Check out the Liquid Cooler FAQ at http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=174442. I need to edit that at some point to clean up the formatting but there's a discussion on this in there.

But ... if you want to upgrade to a 280mm radiator, that would certainly help too. You'll have significantly higher cooling capacity and a new cooler (they tend to lose some efficiency over time). They've also made improvements in more than the RGB. I cannot speak to the other coolers that you mention but I can say ... on my test bench, I'm running the Capellix 280mm cooler on a Ryzen 7 3700X that has been running Folding At Home 24/7 for many months ... maybe even a year. It's done a fantastic job.

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Thanks, DevBiker, I clearly found a source I can learn from.  I just realized that the 1st response to my thread came from you, as well.  I recently revisited the install manual for my AIO, and my jaw dropped when I read the suggestion to have the fans pull air into my case.  I see that logic, now.  I also see the importance of replacing the weak, stock Phanteks fan for a 3rd Noctua 140mm model, to beef up my ceiling exhaust, if I go that route.  But, for now, are there any 120mm fans that you know of that perform better than my stock rad fans with </= noise?

I should also point out that I CAREFULLY clean my fans, radiator, and vid card heatsink w/ 120PSI from my 60Gal compressor.  So, no dust bunnies or clogs of any sort. 

Your link comes back as, "The page you requested does not exist."

Are the fans the in your Capellix 280mm cooler the same model that my H80i has or are they improved?  If they are improved, would they too, howl if water temps reached 40C?

 

 

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1 hour ago, DevBiker said:

There are a couple of things that we can look at before we replace the AIO.

First - the mounting. In most installations, this cooler will be mounted on the rear exhaust, right above the motherboard and set to exhaust. The problem here is that the GPU is right under it ... so GPU waste heat is actually getting sucked through the radiator. That's bad, especially with a powerful GPU like the 2080 Super. Try doing something crazy - reverse the fans to intake and pull the outside air in over the radiator.

Second - HWInfo is probably reporting the speed from the CPU Fan Header. This isn't the same as the speed of the fans. It's 1/2 of the pump speed. Now - one thing about this generation of pumps is that they are powered from the CPU Fan Header and they require the full 12V at all times. This means that you have to either set the header to PWM or to full speed at all times (or both if you just want to be sure). That particular gotcha has caused all manner of grief as most BIOSes attempt to control it as a 3-pin DC fan ... altering the voltage. That's not good. Check out the Liquid Cooler FAQ at http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=174442. I need to edit that at some point to clean up the formatting but there's a discussion on this in there.

But ... if you want to upgrade to a 280mm radiator, that would certainly help too. You'll have significantly higher cooling capacity and a new cooler (they tend to lose some efficiency over time). They've also made improvements in more than the RGB. I cannot speak to the other coolers that you mention but I can say ... on my test bench, I'm running the Capellix 280mm cooler on a Ryzen 7 3700X that has been running Folding At Home 24/7 for many months ... maybe even a year. It's done a fantastic job.

Curious, what is your folding name?

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The fans that came with the GTX/v2 series coolers were SP120L and SP140L. They tended to be coarse in tone, high revving, and consequently unpleasing. As soon as the ML series came out it became almost an automatic replacement with slightly better performance and noise. A single ML120 Pro or even running the twin pack in push pull would be an improvement. If you stay with 120mm, you will see an improvement by getting it out of the GPU heat zone. Rear exhaust (even when run as intake) can be a tough location in a system with high gpu load. Proximity to the gpu will keep the coolant temp at a higher level than just the cpu heat alone. 
 

However, I also think you should consider upgrading to a 280mm. 120mm coolers can work for normal uses, but with a lower heat capacity it needs a pause in the action to keep up with a larger radiator. It’s not going to get it with your usage and you would benefit. You can get away with less fan speed on the 2x140 vs the push-pull 120s.  The Elite series is the current Corsair model and comes with a lot of RGB, controllers, and RGB fans. If that is not of interest, you might prefer the former H115i Pro series or H115i XT, both of which are more subtle versions without RGB fans, come with ML fans in the box, and should be a welcome relief to the v2. 
 

Edited by c-attack
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7 hours ago, MyAIOisbonkers said:

Curious, what is your folding name?

DevBiker, same as here. I'm in the Origin PC/Corsair folding team. https://stats.foldingathome.org/team/245755

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Here's the new link for the AIO FAQ:

Odd that the old link didn't redirect for you. It did for me. So ... that's weird.

As for the fans - @c-attack is right on - the MLs are great drop-in upgrades for the stock fans. The newer coolers also come with the ML fans. They perform as well or better (well, better, really) and have a much better sound profile.

Finally ... keep in mind that changing fans out will only get you so far. There is simply a maximum amount of heat that a radiator can dissipate and anything faster than that is just blowing air and making noise, not doing you any good at all.

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3 hours ago, DevBiker said:

DevBiker, same as here. I'm in the Origin PC/Corsair folding team. https://stats.foldingathome.org/team/245755

Are you familiar w/ this site.  This guy has produced some great data for teams and individual users.  I'm UncleBadtouch #437.

https://folding.extremeoverclocking.com/individual_overtake.php?s=&u=713801

 

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4 hours ago, DevBiker said:

Here's the new link for the AIO FAQ:

Odd that the old link didn't redirect for you. It did for me. So ... that's weird.

As for the fans - @c-attack is right on - the MLs are great drop-in upgrades for the stock fans. The newer coolers also come with the ML fans. They perform as well or better (well, better, really) and have a much better sound profile.

Finally ... keep in mind that changing fans out will only get you so far. There is simply a maximum amount of heat that a radiator can dissipate and anything faster than that is just blowing air and making noise, not doing you any good at all.

My plan is to reverse fan direction, and if that doesn't do it, new 280mm AIO it is.  lol

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3 hours ago, MyAIOisbonkers said:

Are you familiar w/ this site.  This guy has produced some great data for teams and individual users.  I'm UncleBadtouch #437.

https://folding.extremeoverclocking.com/individual_overtake.php?s=&u=713801

 

Nice! I hadn't seen that. You can definitely see when I use my 3090 in there too. Usually it's just the test bench.

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7 hours ago, DevBiker said:

Nice! I hadn't seen that. You can definitely see when I use my 3090 in there too. Usually it's just the test bench.

Any idea the PPD your 3090 can earn while folding full force?  You should have a page like this for your username.

https://folding.extremeoverclocking.com/user_summary.php?s=&u=713801

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8 minutes ago, MyAIOisbonkers said:

Any idea the PPD your 3090 can earn while folding full force?  You should have a page like this for your username.

https://folding.extremeoverclocking.com/user_summary.php?s=&u=713801

Yeah, I saw that. But I don't run the 3090 folding all day long during the summer in Texas. There is only so much heat that the AC can handle. The GPU alone will push my coolant over 40C. Towards December/January timeframe, when we have 50's  during the day, I'll open up the windows and let 'er rip. The lower ambient temperature will helps.

Of course, one of the things that I'll be playing with is how the 7000X handles the heat with various radiator configurations. Because running FAH on both my ThreadRipper and my 3090 is super hot. But the PPD for the TR isn't all that good especially since I need to throttle it as I do need the CPU during the day.

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23 hours ago, DevBiker said:

There are a couple of things that we can look at before we replace the AIO.

First - the mounting. In most installations, this cooler will be mounted on the rear exhaust, right above the motherboard and set to exhaust. The problem here is that the GPU is right under it ... so GPU waste heat is actually getting sucked through the radiator. That's bad, especially with a powerful GPU like the 2080 Super. Try doing something crazy - reverse the fans to intake and pull the outside air in over the radiator.

Second - HWInfo is probably reporting the speed from the CPU Fan Header. This isn't the same as the speed of the fans. It's 1/2 of the pump speed. Now - one thing about this generation of pumps is that they are powered from the CPU Fan Header and they require the full 12V at all times. This means that you have to either set the header to PWM or to full speed at all times (or both if you just want to be sure). That particular gotcha has caused all manner of grief as most BIOSes attempt to control it as a 3-pin DC fan ... altering the voltage. That's not good. Check out the Liquid Cooler FAQ at http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=174442. I need to edit that at some point to clean up the formatting but there's a discussion on this in there.

But ... if you want to upgrade to a 280mm radiator, that would certainly help too. You'll have significantly higher cooling capacity and a new cooler (they tend to lose some efficiency over time). They've also made improvements in more than the RGB. I cannot speak to the other coolers that you mention but I can say ... on my test bench, I'm running the Capellix 280mm cooler on a Ryzen 7 3700X that has been running Folding At Home 24/7 for many months ... maybe even a year. It's done a fantastic job.

I've been looking at buying these, which are PWM based.  However, I looked at the pump connections of my AIO.  My mobo's CPU header is the 4-pin PWM type, however, the power connecter on my pump, which, as you know, powers the two fans on my radiator, too.  What the hell is up w/ that?

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Corsair+CO-9050039-WW+120mm+ML120&qid=1627526290&sr=8-1

Also, can/would you provide a link to the fans that were spec'd for my H80i v2 so I can compare specs?

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Tech specs are here: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Liquid-Cooling/Single-Radiator-Liquid-Coolers/Hydro-Series™-H80i-v2-High-Performance-Liquid-CPU-Cooler/p/CW-9060024-WW.

Be careful getting hung up in the numbers. There is more than just raw numbers - the MLs, in particular have good pressure across the entirety of the fan curve. Back in the day when I had the H100i V2, I swapped the stock fans (same as yours) with the ML pack. Cooling performance (of the cooler/liquid) was equivalent and the MLs were quieter and less unpleasant to listen to. And they didn't have to ramp up as much.

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6 minutes ago, DevBiker said:

Tech specs are here: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Liquid-Cooling/Single-Radiator-Liquid-Coolers/Hydro-Series™-H80i-v2-High-Performance-Liquid-CPU-Cooler/p/CW-9060024-WW.

Be careful getting hung up in the numbers. There is more than just raw numbers - the MLs, in particular have good pressure across the entirety of the fan curve. Back in the day when I had the H100i V2, I swapped the stock fans (same as yours) with the ML pack. Cooling performance (of the cooler/liquid) was equivalent and the MLs were quieter and less unpleasant to listen to. And they didn't have to ramp up as much.

I'm likely to buy these, actually, since I'm a big Noctua fan..................get it, "fan"?

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=psdc_11036291_t1_B01G5I6MRK

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1 hour ago, DevBiker said:

Yeah, I saw that. But I don't run the 3090 folding all day long during the summer in Texas. There is only so much heat that the AC can handle. The GPU alone will push my coolant over 40C. Towards December/January timeframe, when we have 50's  during the day, I'll open up the windows and let 'er rip. The lower ambient temperature will helps.

Of course, one of the things that I'll be playing with is how the 7000X handles the heat with various radiator configurations. Because running FAH on both my ThreadRipper and my 3090 is super hot. But the PPD for the TR isn't all that good especially since I need to throttle it as I do need the CPU during the day.

You don't fold w/ your CPU, do you?  I find the points per watt just isn't worth the power consumption.

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22 minutes ago, MyAIOisbonkers said:

You don't fold w/ your CPU, do you?  I find the points per watt just isn't worth the power consumption.

With my ThreadRipper? No. I agree. It just isn't worth it. Lotta bit of hot, little bit of points. With the Ryzen 7 I do ... more because it usually just does its thing and it just isn't quite as hot as the ThreadRipper.

But I do like to use FAH to test overall system thermal capacity as you can have it push both the CPU and GPU for extended periods. So it does do a good job of letting you soak your loop.

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48 minutes ago, MyAIOisbonkers said:

I'm likely to buy these, actually, since I'm a big Noctua fan..................get it, "fan"?

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=psdc_11036291_t1_B01G5I6MRK

Yeah, Noctuas have a good reputation. I've not personally used them because I just can't get past the ugly.

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The Redux as he shows aren't as flashy as the daddy's 80's woodgrain car brown fans 😛

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4 hours ago, LeDoyen said:

The Redux as he shows aren't as flashy as the daddy's 80's woodgrain car brown fans 😛

I lived through the 80's. I remember the 80's quite well. I don't need reminders. 😛

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The Redux are not exactly the same as the other offerings from them.  Make sure you read user reviews before committing.  While you could have a conversation about some other types vs the ML, I would not recommend the Redux over the ML-Pro.

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