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H110i GTX Pump at 0 RPM after shipping PC


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I recently moved to another country and had my PC shipped. Now that I received it, the only problem I'm having is with the pump on my water cooler. It receives power and is recognized by the system, but Corsair Link shows it running at 0 RPM.

 

When I turn my computer on, the CPU gradually gets hotter and hotter. As it does so, my system fans turn faster and faster. Of course, I turn everything off as soon as possible.

 

This pump has worked fine since 2016 and was working fine the last time I had it running before packing it up to be shipped. Given that everything else in the system is working fine, and that my case was on its side when it was being shipped, I wonder if the fluid isn't adequately dispersed. I've heard that tilting the case in all different directions can help disperse it, but my attempts at doing so haven't changed anything (I wonder if there is a specific manner in which I should be rotating the case).

 

Has anyone else had this problem?

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When I turn my computer on, the CPU gradually gets hotter and hotter. As it does so, my system fans turn faster and faster. Of course, I turn everything off as soon as possible.

 

That is definitely classic "no power" behavior. Unfortunately, sometimes this is how it ends. Check your SATA connection as suggested above, but this is usually a terminal problem.

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If you have air in the pump, it will whine and grind, but it will spin.

Did you check connexions didn't get loose somewhere? consider your PC has been tossed and thrown around ^^'

 

That is definitely classic "no power" behavior. Unfortunately, sometimes this is how it ends. Check your SATA connection as suggested above, but this is usually a terminal problem.

 

 

I've reconnected everything and the problem remains. I should mention that the logo on the cooler is lighting up and turns red as the CPU gets too hot.

 

Would the logo still light up in the "no power" situation? It seems like it shouldn't .

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No, it would not and that reads more like a partial blockage. Not really great news here either as this was a common problem for GTX/v2 owners. Material gets stuck at the jet plate entering the CPU block and cuts off the flow. The material was already in the loop, but the travel stirred things up and it found its way to the narrow slit on the jet plate. Other users report his after taking down the cooler for cleaning, so it does not mean someone through your package off the roof.

 

You might get away with taking it off the CPU and shaking it. Hold the pump above the radiator and "maybe" the blockage will fall out of the pump area. This does work for some people, but the material is still in there and can come back at any time. After you remount, don't turn it on for 10-15 minutes. Give the stuff time to settle in somewhere else and not get sucked right back to the jet plate.

 

The thing is you don't normally get a zero RPM reading with this. That is normally reserved for no power, blown tach wires, or dead pumps. None of these are good things and don't have resolutions. The zero RPM thing is very worrisome. I can't remember too many (if any) people fixing this.

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No, it would not and that reads more like a partial blockage. Not really great news here either as this was a common problem for GTX/v2 owners. Material gets stuck at the jet plate entering the CPU block and cuts off the flow. The material was already in the loop, but the travel stirred things up and it found its way to the narrow slit on the jet plate. Other users report his after taking down the cooler for cleaning, so it does not mean someone through your package off the roof.

 

You might get away with taking it off the CPU and shaking it. Hold the pump above the radiator and "maybe" the blockage will fall out of the pump area. This does work for some people, but the material is still in there and can come back at any time. After you remount, don't turn it on for 10-15 minutes. Give the stuff time to settle in somewhere else and not get sucked right back to the jet plate.

 

The thing is you don't normally get a zero RPM reading with this. That is normally reserved for no power, blown tach wires, or dead pumps. None of these are good things and don't have resolutions. The zero RPM thing is very worrisome. I can't remember too many (if any) people fixing this.

 

Hm, still 0. That's too bad, but I guess it's to be expected after a few years of frequent use. Looks like I'll have to buy a new one.

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I would say 5 years is pretty good for any GTX or v2 model. That series has been in these pages an awful lot and usually for users with much shorter ownership periods. This is not an uncommon end for any AIO, but I would say you are above average in terms of longevity.
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