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Corsair h100i capellix


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Hello, I need your help, I have a corsair h100i capellix, I come from a h115i platinum rgb and I have noticed that, while playing, the fans in a relaxed profile, do not drop below 2200 rpm and the water temperature does not drop below 42 -43 degrees, that with the h115 did not happen, I have a ryzen 5900x, say that the temperature of the cpu in load does not exceed 60-75 degrees, iddle 40-45 degrees, is it normal?
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You are over 40C on the coolant so all of the fan profiles will stay near maximum trying to get it back down. The coolant temp is the baseline or lowest possible CPU temp with zero volts, so with a minimum in the 40s pre-voltage, even an standard CPU is going to be registering very high numbers.

 

The key is the relative case/room temperature in comparison to the coolant temp. If your case is a cool 22C and the coolant at 43C, that suggests a problem with the cooler. However, if the case ambient temp is 38C, then 43C is probably as low as you can go and you need to address the entire environment to lower all system temps.

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43 degrees is playing and a 3080 at maximum performance, in idle the water temperature is 34 degrees, and the cpu is about 40 degrees, so my question is, it is normal for the water to get to 43 degrees while playing and the fans at 2200rpm or maybe the h100i is faulty, someone with the same setup who can make a comparison? the ryzen has no oc, it comes with factory settings.
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And it goes back to the baseline temperature... The CPU load part of the equation is relatively small. Maybe +4C on 4 core or maybe +8C for 5900x. However, if you are talking about gaming loads and you have an air cooled GPU, that is a massive factor in the overall result. The coolant can't be 26C if the entire case is heated up to 40C.

 

If you are trying to assess cooler functionality, you need to stick to CPU only tasks. If there is some type of issue with the cooler, it will be present all the time and even a moderate load will send the coolant shooting upwards at a quick pace. Try something easy and predictable like the CPU-Z bench "stress test". It is a linear load and not too high on watts. Expected rise is probably about +8C in 5-10 minutes, but you likely don't need to run that long to figure this out. A block flow will send the coolant numbers skipping up immediately and it will keep going. I suspect you are looking at environmental issues, but we'll see.

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doing a test with aida64 the cooling keeps the water 38-39 degrees and the cpu does not rise above 61 degrees the problem is playing is like the 3080 heats the case too much and the cooling is heated with hot air, the problem is that h115i this did not happen to me.
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That's only about a 4C difference from the peak gaming load, so not terrible. In poorly ventilated cases there might be a 10C difference and that is substantial. The more important question may be where does the coolant idle at cool idle, not after a gaming or GPU load session. How does that compare to something like the main MB temp sensor? If you see coolant temps notably above the MB sensor, then that is something to look at. for most people they will be effectively the same.

 

Either way, you don't need to held hostage by the fan presets and I usually recommend most people make their own. Performance Tab + will create a new graph below. Make sure the Sensor value is set to H100i Temp, then click one of the three shape tools on the side of the graph. Those correspond to the three presets, but now you can see and move the points. Set a comfortable idle speed near your normal baseline coolant temp. Set a more reasonable speed for 40C+. If the case is 36C, no amount of fan speed can lower the coolant below that. You can back off quite a bit. 120mm fans are much more effective above 1000 rpm with a noise vs performance sweet spot in the 1300-1500 rpm range. That a place to start.

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Well, that will be an indicator of what is really going on if it does. Generally speaking, you don't get a lot of return in noise vs performance at high speeds on standard density (fins per inch) radiators. There are special radiators that are either very thick or very dense and these are designed to scale well with high fan speeds. Most radiators are right in the middle to strike a balance. I would not expect anything more than a 1 or 2C difference by relaxing the speeds. Coolant temp to CPU temp change is 1:1, so letting the coolant go up +2C is only +2C to the end CPU temp. Most people will be happy with that if it takes the fans from 2200 to 1400 and the large drop in noise. If the ambient case temp is the underlying cause, you may not go up in the coolant temp at all by relaxing the fans.
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I understand, I had doubts because with the h115i, whose fans are 140 mm, the water temperature with a relaxed profile did not usually rise from 39-40 degrees in the same conditions, and with the capellix, however, it rises to 45 in some occasions with the fans at many more rpm.
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The steps between a 240mm -> 280mm -> 360mm and so on are normally small. One fits better than the other or may allow slightly lower fan speed. I would expect you to need a little more fan speed on a 240mm to keep up with a 280mm, but this is typically about a 2C difference. You can search around for various AIO tests and compare 240 and 280s to get a better feel.

 

However, if you are in the northern hemisphere, Summer is coming or is already here. First really hot day for me today and sure enough the cooling system hit a temp I have not seen in 9 month. It's seems alarming, until I realize it is 28C in the room so 37C is not so bad. You would need to describe the details of your prior 280mm installation and whether it was in the same case, in the same location in that case, etc. Most of the time people get caught off guard by the effect of change in room or local temp. For me the difference between Winter and Summer is larger than my coolant temp change from the load. That makes my Winter load temp lower than Summer idle.

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