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My "Corsair Crazy" Build: 5000D, XH305i, XD5, XC7, XG7, HX750, 6xQL120, MP600


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Corsair Liquid Cooled PC Build

(Pictures and stuff here: https://anax.space/2021/03/15/corsair-liquid-cooled-pc-build/ will edit post with pictures)

 

It has been a while since I built my own computer (2013!) and thought I would share my experience.

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  • Corsair 5000D Case
  • Corsair Hydro X Series iCUE XH305i RGB Custom Cooling Kit (XC7 RGB (115X/AM4) CPU water block, XD5 Pump/Reservoir Combo, XL5 Coolant, XR5 Radiator, 3 x QL120 RGB Fans, iCUE Commander PRO)
  • 4 x Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 16 GB
  • Corsair HX Series HX750 power supply
  • Additional 6 CORSAIR iCUE QL120 RGB fans
  • Corsair MP600 Force Series 1TB NVMe
  • Intel Core i9-9900K CPU
  • Gigabyte AORUS Z390 PRO Motherboard
  • Nvidia 2080 Founders Edition (From previous computer)
  • Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64bit
  • Frameless Perspex® Silver Acrylic Mirror 250mm x 150mm

 

So, I may have gone a little corsair crazy but I have always wanted to do a full liquid cooled setup. When amazon knocked £100+ off the price of the iCUE XH305i RGB Custom Cooling Kit I jumped in. The XG7 (2080 founders edition) also had halved in price which I believed was a key component so that got added too. Problem was when I started looking into things, I would need a new case. My old Corsair 550D Silent would not fit the liquid cooling or radiators in ☹ oh well kids were begging an upgrade. In for a penny! so then I end up with a new case, MOBO, CPU, RAM, NVMe & PSU. The only original component being my GFX card. It appears between Brexit and other shortages; components have gone up in price and are harder to find. I ended up going to several places to get everything.

 

CPU & MOBO

The case was lovely. I removed all the removable bits mounted the motherboard (AORUS Z390 PRO). One issue I found was the provided screws worked but it felt like they had a different gauge to the motherboard mounting pillars. That aside it fitted perfectly and securely. XC7 install was a breeze no need to apply thermal paste, it already had it. I had removed the door on the rear so fitting the mounting bracket was no problem. Having watched a bunch of youtubers I made sure I kept the RGB cable tight to the MOBO and just hanging over the top to connect to the commander pro on the back plane to keep it out of sight as much as possible.

TOP TIP: Remove the little protective plastic off the fans (front and back) before you mount them �� it takes a while to unmount them afterwards, peal off and remount “apparently!”

 

 

GFX CARD

Nvidia RTX 2080 founders edition, install was straight forward. When removing the stock shroud and heat sink I did have a couple of screws that where a bit “meh” but patience and persistence removed them without damaging card or shroud (just in case I ever need it back on). The final bit of removing the shroud was a bit nerve-racking as I thought I had left a screw in or something as it didn’t want to come off but did eventually. Probably the thermal pads where a bit sticky. The corsair XG7 installed easily had its own thermal paste and pads so the old ones where carefully removed, placed on the old shroud and GPU cleaned with alcohol.

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CABLING

With the fans the fans pump radiator and PSU in there where a lot of cables to manage and stash away but the case has lots of tie down place and a bunch of Velcro straps. I did cable tie and number the three sets of three fans: RGB cables and PWM cables just to keep them together. The final result with 3 temperature sensors in and SSD all gets hidden away nicely behind the door and when done well allows the magnet to hold the door shut. I do have an issue with the supplied PSU cables. They are either too long, too short & inflexible. My previous corsair PSU cables where a lot more flexible.

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I did make a bespoke mount (from a paperclip) to keep the front fan cables hidden away at the top of the case. It would be good to have something in the case for this.

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PIPE INSTALL AND BENDING

OK this was the bit I had never done before. I watched hours of footage on how to do it.

Everyone had a normal sized heat gun and recommended 30 seconds ‘ish’ and 100mm above the heat source.

I had a small hobby heat gun that took 3-5 minutes and pipe (Not fingers!) had to be held about 30mm above the heat source. It took me 12 hours to bend 4 pipes. They are not perfect, but they work. When I next upgrade I will try and do a better job �� I tried being all mathematical about it but ended up doing it all by eye and hand. I did not use the provided bendy tool because by the time I managed to heat a pipe and get it into the tool it had already started cooling. I used the provided saw, deburrer and silicon insert.

TOP TIP: get a full sized heat gun!

 

TESTING

Corsair provide a PSU terminator meaning you can run the pump and nothing else while filling and cycling the liquid around the system.

TOP TIP: After waiting a while I remembered the tip to remove the PWM from the commander pro so the pump would go to 100% and actually fill the system. ��

Houston we have ….. a leak :-(

https://anaxspace.files.**************/2021/03/houston.mp4

 

Thankfully it was just me tightening one of the bungs, on the GFX card, too hard that had deformed the washer. Once fixed no more leak. ��

I used the provided liquid and filler bottle then turned it on. I continued to fill to about half the 1 litre bottle. I gentle tipped the computer in a few directions to help move the air out of the system. I left it to run over night and on for 24 hours which cleared almost every bubble.

TOP TIP: get yourself a USB LED clip on lamp if, like me, you have a dark room to work in. ��

 

SOFTWARE

Brand new SSD and Fresh copy of Windows 10 installed in less than 30 minutes. Updates took about 4 hours and I had to force some!. ICUE installed did something weird, got uninstalled and re-installed. I have a lot more to do in ICUE and through Corsair Forums, Youtube, Reddit I am slowly working through RGB setup and fan performance issues that I am running into.

TOP TIP: Do not use “Quiet” mode as it is not! (You get fan surges)

Set all your fans to “Hydro X Series Fans” by selecting performance selecting “Hydro X Series Fans” and selecting all fans. (Your pump should be plugged into FANS 6 & Water temperature on Commander Pro and Set to “Hydro X Series Pumps” in ICUE)

TOP TIP: Rename your temperature Sensors and FANS to reflect what they are. It makes it much easier to know what is occurring ��

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My current fan control via ICUE (after a couple of hiccups) uses: the PWM repeater (2 on pic) for the 6 exhaust fans and the 3 radiator fans are plugged directly into the Commander Pro (4 on pic).

My RGB Control for ICUE uses: first Lighting Node Core (1 on pic) to control the 3 radiator fans RGB and the second Lighting Node Core (3 on pic) to control the 6 exhaust fans. The XC7 (CPU Block), XG7 (GPU Block) and XD5 (Water Pump/Reservoir) are daisy changed into LED 1 on the Commander Pro (4 on pic).

 

CONCLUSION

I am really happy with the end product but there are still some area’s to improve.

I was looking to make an almost silent gaming PC and I have yet to achieve this. I hope it is just software and my config and not missing hardware.

The software gives a lot of functionality but restricts me too. I would like it to be a bit more open in the GUI before I start playing with the config files. I want an “Advanced” Option that allows me to add and remove functionality. I know there are tools to allow syncing across multiple vendors but I only want one program for all my RGB and Cooling.

Hardware wise I think you will agree it looks great. I need to get some more hard tube and get those bends better. I will leave off doing this until I can get another radiator though (OC time?). I am really not happy with the GPU and motherboard cables but there appears to be no “white” Corsair Premium cables to be had. I am looking at getting an LED strip to run along the bottom front as it missing some colour there. Oh yer and I am having to change my keyboard and mouse to Corsair so I can sync all the lighting effects :-D.

TOP TIP: if you cant get or afford the Right-angle PCIe bracket get your self a cheap Perspex mirror so you can see the GFX Card LEDs and flow propeller.

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OUTSTANDING QUESTIONS

For Corsair and Community

Could the motherboard be dropped 10mm to allow just a little more room for top fan and radiators.

Could the side fans be moved 30mm back from the front of the case so you could see them better?

Have I got the correct combination of PWM Repeater, Commander Pro, and lighting Nodes?

Why do my 3 side intake and 3 top exhaust FANs never go to zero RPM yet the radiator fans do? (Is it the PWM repeater?)

For Me:

Should I add one more Fan to the rear exhaust port or is 9 fans too many?

OR

Should I put the side panel back, leave two of the fans there and more one to rear.

 

LEFT OVERS

It wasn’t too bad but still a lot of packaging that could have been cardboard or some other easier to recycle materials. I liked the little bag that came with the PSU. keeps all the bits together.

 

 

PARTS LIST

Component Cost Vendor Make

Corsair MP600 Force Series, 1 TB High-speed Gen 4 PCIe x4, NVMe M.2 SSDent £158.99 Amazon Corsair

Windows 10 Professional 64 bit – USB Flash Drive – English – 1 PC £99.00 Amazon Microsoft

Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4 2666 MHz C16 XMP 2.0 Enthusiast RGB LED Illuminated Memory Kit – Black £321.06 Amazon Corsair

Corsair HX Series HX750 750 W 80 Plus Platinum Full Modular 1 x 135 mm Fan ATX Power Supply Unit – Black £147.95 Amazon Corsair

Corsair Hydro X Series, iCUE XH305i RGB Custom Cooling Kit (XC7 RGB (115X/AM4), XD5 Pump/Reservoir Combo, XL5 Coolant, XR5 Radiator, 3 x QL120 RGB Fans, iCUE Commander PRO, etc.) Black £415.50 Amazon Corsair

Intel Core i9-9900K Desktop Processor 8 Cores up to 5.0GHz Unlocked LGA1151 300 Series 95W (BX806849900K) £333.99 Amazon Intel

Corsair Hydro X Series, XG7 RGB 20-SERIES GPU Water Block for NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Founders Edition (Precision Construction, Aluminum Backplate, Flow Indicator, Customisable RGB Lighting), Black £74.67 Amazon Corsair

2 x CORSAIR iCUE QL120 RGB 120mm PWM Triple Fan with Lighting Node CORE (2 packs plus the shipping) £187.94 ebuyer Corsair

Corsair 5000D Black Mid Tower Tempered Glass PC Gaming Case £129.98 Scan Corsair

AORUS Z390 PRO MOTHERBOARD £111.48 JohnPye Gigabyte

Frameless Perspex® Silver Acrylic Mirrors / Contemporary Shaped Plastic Mirrors, 250mm x 150mm £7.32 ebay Perspex

(Pricing from February 2021)

Edited by whinjinpom
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Usually the top radiator/fan combo fits well, just have to make sure you install the EPS12V cable first :)

 

It's not bad for a first indeed, more so when i see which which heat gun you did those bends hehe

 

As for the silent bit, there's no secret.. 9900K + 2080, you will need a second 360mm rad. That will allow you to run your fans slower, and still dissipate a lot of heat.

Maybe snatch one with a couple of fittings whenever you'll redo those tubes.

That said, you can also leave the hydroX assistant and default profiles aside and create your own custom fan curve to quiet down the PC while keeping temperatures under control.

 

As for the white type 4 cables, yep.. they are so sought after, they are hard to find, even with 3rd party shops like cablemod.

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@LeDoyen

 

I had the radiator at the top initially and yes had to remove to get the eps12v cables in :-D

 

I tried the radiator in all 3 positions and decided on the front because it impinged on the Mobo the least.

 

In temp testing with blender. it ticks over at 25-27C and around 50-55C under load on on GPU&CPU according to Icue. Theoretically i could try Overclocking now as a good bit of leeway. Oddly the RAM seems to be the hotpoint on the Mobo always sitting around 33 and up to 55C underload.

 

i need to play with ICUE more as created custom modes but the 6 fans on the PWM repeater seem to just their own thing. sitting around 1000rpm. but not sure that is accurate as sounds louder.

 

@Zotty thanks for leak tester tip. will get one when i redo pipes.

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the RAM is heated up by the GPU backplate most of the time, same for your first NVME drive.

you can verify that by looking at your drive's temp when under GPU load.

The RGB LEDs will also heat up the sticks, sometimes a lot in white color.. Not much space for cooling when all 4 slots are filled.

That said, unless you overclock the sticks, 55 is still fine. But since you got 2666mhz Ram, there's not much point in doing it. If you want to get more performance you'll be better off investing in a 3600mhz kit.

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will need to dig in to nvme temps as not in icue (unless it is one of the un-named MOBO temps). mobo sits between 22C and 33C on temps it reports.

i have used "Static White" alot so may be will change that ;-)

 

I dont think the Mobo supports anything above 2600mhz but will double check :-)

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it's a Z390 so it supports full overclock features. at 2666 you are at the intel spec :)

the 9900k will gladly run 3200 or 3600 mhz ram all day long. approaching 4000, you start to depend more on motherboard layout and PCB quality.

 

For RGB, even in white, have a go at reducing the vengeance brightness in iCue, like to 1/3. You should see the temps go down quite a bit :)

If you use colors, even more.

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Thanks.

 

I just got my white cables and installed them. So much better. I will have a play with brightness may have reduced it already. Managed to get GPU hitting 58c but haven't gone full 3 screen on elite dangerous. At 1440p. That I think will give it something to do

 

Pom

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oh the CPU will still be sleeping :)

but the 2080 will certainly get your water warm :p I happen to play Elite in 1440p on 3 screens too ^^ mostly demanding for the GPU. Used to hit in the 90fps on planetary surfaces, 120+ in planetary rings and locked at 144 in space with a 2080.

That will be a good occasion to fine tune your fan curves, during long play sessions.

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Could be the PWM hubs...

I used one that even kept the fans spinning when the PC was off, which was super odd (the deepcool 10 ports).

There's dumb hubs, that just connect un parallel the PWM signal to all fans (or buffer it sometimes), and smart hubs that have some functions like.. keeping your fans running even if the PWM signal is lost.

Hard to say which you get, it's usually not well advertised. But it's easy to test. just unplug the hub and plug one of its fan directly on the commander pro. if ot goes to full stop when it should, you have your answer.

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thanks ledoyen

 

it is the corsair one that came with the 5000d case. i will give the "plug one fan direct into the commander pro" test as have one unused fan port.

 

I am assuming that the repeater is sending a combined signal back to the CP and comms to fans are reliant on a combined signal.

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OP says been a while since last computer build 2013 well my last was 2002 trying again now to see if I can still do it, using as many corsair parts as I can afford basics asus z170 i5 6600k although hadnt thought of overclocking it s just what turned up object is to run win7 as as that is the last win system that I can get early flight sims to operate on 4000d corsair airflow case rm750 psu cmk16gx4md3000c16 ram not sure if that will work i m about to find out any advice would be much appreciated
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  • 3 weeks later...

@bugsy

 

Sorry missed this. Becarefull ;-) you can end up spending the same again on Corsair bits as you do on the core components

 

Quick tip is make sure your motherboard RGB is compatible with icue

 

From a security stand I would not recommend win7. Win10 has compatibility mode for older software so you could try before you buy on win 10.

 

Regarding the 4000D it will fit a full size mobo but if you are using liquid cooling you may find fans and radiators are a bit close for comfort. I have the 5000D and that was a bit close and a little larger than the 4000

 

Good luck

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