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H100i v2 high temps issue


Jordie16
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hello im making a post because ive had my h100i v2 for almost a year now but i made this purchase and it was refurbished and im seeing very high temps on call of duty cold war

 

play on 2k resoultion and 144hz

 

the temps on the left side of the photo is my pc on idle then max was around 90 intill i turned on extreme mode on icue

397862925_highttempspicture.png.74a5982dfb1ffbb41fb8a8b50d8b9708.png

Edited by Jordie16
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We need to see the coolant temperature (H100i v2 Temp) for those levels. It's in CUE/Link to the right of the pump picture.

 

Normally you might have a coolant temp of approximately +4-7C above your room temp or equal to the interior case temperature. During an extended CPU only load, you might see +6-8C increase. However, during gaming you might see +8-10C despite the lower CPU load because of large increases in case ambient temperature from GPU waste heat.

 

If you are idling around 50C after gaming, there is a strong chance your coolant is 45C+ which is a limiting factor. However, if the entire interior of the case is also 45C, then it's not the cooler's fault. You need to differentiate between those two situations.

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Some indication of how it is set up would be helpful as well. Are the fans set to exhaust or intake? Where are they in relation to the GPU? One thing that we've seen often is that, when the fans are set to exhaust, they draw waste GPU heat through the radiator. This artificially increases the temperature of the coolant and limits how much it can cool your CPU. As c-attack alludes to, it's all about temperature differential ... less about absolutes.
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thanks for the reply my rad is fitted to the roof of the case on exhaust my front 3 fans are set to intake and the fan on the back of the case is exhaust also

 

i did notice the red light on the cpu cooler and looked at ICUE it was saying pump was at 49.5 and cpu loads was all around 88+

 

ive added a photo of my pc setup below and also a picture of my temps and stuff on main screen of call of duty cold war

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1492124321_h100itemp.thumb.png.ef9964ab4f7eacb45c4738467fbd81e6.png

Edited by Jordie16
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thanks for the reply my rad is fitted to the roof of the case on exhaust my front 3 fans are set to intake and the fan on the back of the case is exhaust also

 

i did notice the red light on the cpu cooler and looked at ICUE it was saying pump was at 49.5 and cpu loads was all around 88+

 

ive added a photo of my pc setup below and also a picture of my temps and stuff on main screen of call of duty cold war

 

edit temps after 30 minutes of zombies on call of duty

pump is already on 46.10 added new picture

866068648_icuetemp.thumb.png.221bbef11b4c8a6b8ac68a61d32d6823.png

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49C is generally out of bounds for coolant temp, but the case does seem warm. Try to assess this is at idle. A normal cooler is going to stay just above ambient after cold boot (no gaming). A cooler with a flow problem will start slowly ticking upward the moment you power on.

 

Another way to address this is to take the gpu heat out of the equation. In a generally cool state, run a mild stress test like the CPU-Z “bench test”. It’s linear so the cpu temp should hold, except as coolant temperature increases. You don’t need to run very long. 5-10 min is plenty and should raise the coolant 5-8C. When you stop, it should drop 3-4C in the first 1-2 minutes after the load. A cooler with flow issues will go up much higher, faster, and then stay at the elevated rate after the load is removed.

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ive just had a look at my rad fans and i think my brother changed the orginal SP120L fans to the LL120 RGB ones do you think this could help my heat problem?

 

While the original fans are a bit more powerful (and loud), this would be minor - very minor - in comparison to the potential larger issues you have at play. Many users use the LL's on their radiators without issues - you might have, at most < 1C difference in coolant temperature.

 

Your coolant is getting to almost 50C. THAT is your issue. The question is WHY. It's not going to be the fans. It will either be blockage or thermal environment (waste heat from GPU). Another alternative to consider is to reverse the fans - set them as intake. This will bring cooler air from the outside into the case, rather than pulling waste GPU heat through the cooler.

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Removing the top glass panel can also help to see if airflow is an issue, just as a test.

LL fans + rad + glass is usually a recipe for heat in the 680x ^^'

 

Yes, that's possible - the top glass can create a "heat column" effect. But flipping the fans to intake will also resolve that issue - and further reduce any issues caused by waste GPU heat, which can be significant.

 

The 280X (which I have) has the same potential issue. Flipping the fans to intake solves the issue quite effectively. We've also seen the issue on several BeQuiet! cases as well ... again, flipping the fans to intake solves the issue quite effectively.

 

You see the pattern here? Flipping the fans to intake kills 2 birds with one stone ... it eliminates the "heat column" effect from a partially enclosed top AND it eliminates issues with waste GPU heat. Just removing the top only mitigates one issue.

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yes yes.. but by increasing airflow, it also cools down the GPU a bit better, reduces the internal temps, reducing the nevel of heat trapped inside.

Having 5 fans as intake and one exhaust can also finish killing the airflow coming from the front fans given the low static pressure of LLs and how the middle one on the 680x produces almost no airflow to begin with.

It's really specific to that case, but otherwise, i totally agree.

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so last night tried changing the fans on my rad to intake instead it didn't seem to go over 45 coolant temp in till after a hour but my cpu temps was still all around 90 again

I will try cleaning the paste to today and re applying and see if that changes anything

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I recommend running the quick 5 minute stress test suggested above. While it is definitely possible all of this environmental case heat management, it has come to your attention now. That suggests something has changed. That could mean you are coming up on Summer in your half of the world. It also could mean a problem with the cooler. The GTX/v2 series is historically more prone to this type of slow performance loss, so it is something to identify. In a 5 minute stress test, fan type, radiator location, and the rest doesn't matter. The cooler is capable of shedding a short burst of heat and then cooling off after -- or it's not. If it checks out here, then it's time to look at other ways to improve your situation, but no reason to re-paste a cooler with a building flow issue. Edited by c-attack
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ok kind of fixed my issue now for some reason when my brother built the pc he didnt add the rubber washers to the back of the h100i v2 mount so it wasnt sitting the best on cpu but now we have fixed that issue and my brother also added the 2 brushless corsair fans that came with my refurbed h100i

 

onto my next point that is driving me crazy when the coolant now hits around 39-40c these brushless fans run at like 2400rpm and sound like jet engines

do you think i should just replace the fans with better fans or?

 

also thanks for the help on this was driving me crazy

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2400 rpm is going to be shockingly loud no matter what fan you put on there. Most people need to make their own custom curve anyway, especially if you have a hot case.

 

However, the washers thing does not eliminate the base problem from the earlier data. Your coolant was 49C. Lack of contact between CPU and cold plate would make coolant temps unusually low while CPU temp would be unsustainably high, even with basic stuff like browsing. You need to run a quick 5-10 minute CPU only stress test to see how coolant reacts with the GPU waste heat.

 

The coolant should start off about 4-7C above room temp and then go up 4-6C during the test. When you stop, it should drop 2-3C in 60 seconds or so with the final rise slowly dropping off over several minutes. A particularly large or rapid initial coolant rise and the inability to remove the heat after the test are signs of trouble.

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And that's the part that is concerning... You don't need to blast your fans at 2000+ rpm to make this stuff work. My 8700K@5.3GHz is going to keep the coolant under 30C with the fans at less than 1000 rpm. Your coolant to CPU temp differential is normal (+35C), which means contact is not an issue. However, if your coolant was 30C, then you would be maxing out at 65C on the CPU instead. We need to find out why the coolant is riding so high all the time.
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You heat up (maybe a bit more than I expected at full blast on the fans), but then also cool down as soon as the test stops. There does not appear to be coolant flow issue.

 

That shifts the problem to general case/heat management. CPU-Z is putting a much higher number of watts into the cooler than when you play, yet gaming is returning 10-15C more coolant temp rise than it other wise would. Motherboard temp is reading around 34C during this, so that is basically the lowest possible coolant temp in that moment. That's the value you would like to decrease.

 

Where is the H100i v2 located? Top exhaust? Or front intake? If front intake, get the dust filter off and how much things improve. The 680x has a decent offset from frame to that, but in combination with the glass is may be a limiting factor.

 

In the CPU-Z test your coolant to CPU differential is pretty good at +40C. If you are trying to grab back as much CPU temp as possible, there may be some additional voltage padding, especially if you are using the "Auto" settings for Vcore. +35C is pretty lean, so we talking about maybe a 5C reduction by trimming voltage.

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my h100i is top mounted on the top of my case with the fans pushing air through the rad for exhaust

 

yeah it is 100% better now ive re mounted the back mount but if i could try to balance it out then i would because 2400rpm is very noisey

Edited by Jordie16
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A few different things you can try:

 

1) You can try adjusting your fan balance. Don't let the top radiator fans run quite so hard. If they pull hard enough you just draw in the GPU heat to the radiator. Try more rear exhaust and higher front fan speeds to push the GPU waste heat out the back venting. However, I don't think there is 10C in that.

 

2) Flip the radiator fans to intake. This is another way to tackle the issue above and force more heat out the back and glass offset gaps.

 

3) You also could take the side glass off and see large a difference that makes.

 

4) Moving the H100i to the front as intake help gets it out of the GPU waste heat zone. However, there isn't always room in a 680x/740 is you have a long GPU and it may not be appealing in general.

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  • 2 months later...

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