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Do I need two rads


acemaninwa871
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I plan on installing a single 420 rad in my case. I have a i9 10900x that I mildly overclock, and a ROG Strix 2080TI OC.

 

I have 3 - 140mm fans on top, Which is where I plan on installing the 420 rad and 3 - 140mm fans in the front. As well as 2 - 120mm fans in the rear. All are corsair LL series fans. Do I need a second rad for this? And if so, do you think a 280 would be ok to add with the 420?

 

Thank you for any advice.

 

Apparently I missed hitting the w for two. My apologies.

Edited by acemaninwa871
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I do have another question. I am currently using the H115i RGB PLATINUM 280mm, and am going to remove the fans for use on one of the new rads, and buying another fan. However, the fans that come with the H115i platinum spin are rated for up to 2000 rpm. The ML140 PRO RGB LED 140MM PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan is only rated for 1200. Are these two different model fans? I really don't want to have to buy 3 more fans. Please don't think I am cheap. This add on is getting really expensive for me. I'd just like to have the exact same third fan as the other 2. So it's easier to control the speed of all three equally. Edited by acemaninwa871
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You can run dissimilar fans on the same rad as long as they are not opposing each other in a push pull and that you do not have share a PWM splitter if used.

 

I like match my fans when used along the same intake/exhaust area or rad, but its not required.

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Thank you so much. Don't know how to thank you.

 

Hey bud.. yeah the ML fans supplied with the Coolers are specific to the coolers i am afraid

 

but can be bought as spares!

 

Hydro Series H115i RGB Platinum Replacement Fan, 140mm, 2000RPM

 

i have a 1000D my self and have put together a Faq/Guide thread.. Links to my faqs are in my Signature below this post

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It is an OEM replacement part and likely only available through Corsair -- other than in the ML140-RGB form, but that is changing the game a bit. Regardless, you could compare the ML140 OEM part cost + shipping to picking up a retail ML140 RGB and not connecting the RGB wire if you just wanted 1 more.

 

An ML140 blade is the same, no matter which motor they pack in with it. If you tell the ML140 Pro to run at 1200 rpm, it will move the same amount of air as any other ML140 variant at 1200 rpm. If this is about matching colors, there is a grey "twin pack" of ML140s that is cost effective and without further adornment.

 

This sells for less at most retailers.

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Fans/Magnetic-Levitation-Fans/ml-config/p/CO-9050044-WW

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I have another question if you don't mind. As I stated I am buying 2 - 420 rads. In my obsidian 1000D I removed the front 120mm fan support slider and got a 140fan support like the top. I plan on mounting the rad in the front with the connections at the top. I have seen this done before. I am going to assume this can cause drain issues. With that being said, do you ever fully drain the system? It seems to me when changing fluid you would for the most part be flushing the system and refilling.

 

Am I all wet in my assumption here?

 

FWIW, the rad mounted on the top of the case it's connections will face the back. I know I'll end up with a long run to link the two rads, but that's fine I think. My idea for order is such:

 

Pump

GPU

CPU

RAD1

RAD2

Back to pump.

 

Thank you for any advice you have.

Edited by acemaninwa871
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i use all LL fans in my 1000d buddy. all 120m's though.. they do the job.. and at that much rad area they wont need to run super fast!!.

 

mine

 

http://i.imgur.com/JiF2yqyl.jpg

 

I run a Discord server thats inclined towards Corsairs Cases, got a fair few 1000d owners in there. may be worth the join dude

 

https://discord.gg/b6x8HpM

Edited by Zotty
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Howdy,

 

I am on the same Discord server that Zotty mentioned. I have a 1000d that is 3x140mm with 420mm rad in front, 3x140mm and 280mm rad up top, and 2x120mm and 240mm rad in back. I will be adding an ITX system soon and I will be switching out to 2x420mm rad for the main system and 1 240mm rad for the ITX. I went with the 140mm fans because it is a little less crazy than the all 120mm builds, and bigger fans spin a little slower and quieter for me. You can hit me up here or on the discord.

 

Nice to see another 140mm 1000d out there.

 

-usna92

 

 

49175683202_e381f4d267_k.jpg

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That's really nice man. I highly doubt mine will look that darn good. But i am going to do my best. I fly rc helicopters, so I know something about patience, as the aren't easy to fly. But I am really excited about this.

 

i use all LL fans in my 1000d buddy. all 120m's though.. they do the job.. and at that much rad area they wont need to run super fast!!.

 

mine

 

http://i.imgur.com/JiF2yqyl.jpg

 

I run a Discord server thats inclined towards Corsairs Cases, got a fair few 1000d owners in there. may be worth the join dude

 

https://discord.gg/b6x8HpM

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Thank you so much. Your build looks great too. It is so nice to see how others are doing things. I have spent the last few days watching videos and reading up on bending the acrylic tubing. I went with 14mm OD pipe as I thought the extra thickness might be best for a new guy like myself. But it does figure that it will take a bit longer to heat to bend. But as I stated before. I have patience.

 

Howdy,

 

I am on the same Discord server that Zotty mentioned. I have a 1000d that is 3x140mm with 420mm rad in front, 3x140mm and 280mm rad up top, and 2x120mm and 240mm rad in back. I will be adding an ITX system soon and I will be switching out to 2x420mm rad for the main system and 1 240mm rad for the ITX. I went with the 140mm fans because it is a little less crazy than the all 120mm builds, and bigger fans spin a little slower and quieter for me. You can hit me up here or on the discord.

 

Nice to see another 140mm 1000d out there.

 

-usna92

 

 

49175683202_e381f4d267_k.jpg

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Tried pipe bending for the first time tonight. First one I got to hot and it bubbled slightly in a spot. Second one I didn't quite heat enough of the tube, and got a ever so slight flat area in a bend. So, I am learning. I know it requires a lot of patience. Between needing to heat it up and not wanting to bubble it. It requires a fine touch.
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One thing I did was to buy one of these. Really makes shorting the tube a breeze if you are just a shade to long, and it rounds over the edges really nice. Just make sure you buy the one for the ID and OD of the pipe you are using.

 

Just be careful with acrylic using that tool; you might end up chipping the ends. It works extremely well on copper/brass/PETG but not so well on acrylic.But you are right about fine tuning tube length (assuming you started long).

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