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Problem when plugging in Fan Cable of Hydro X Pump / Reservoir


kabalas
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Hi everyone,

 

Sorry first for the long post, I wanted to detail as much as I could.

 

I had no issues until recently. Before I had 1 240mm Corsair Radiator that took care of both my CPU and GPU. I had originially planned on a 360mm Radiator to be the final stop before going back to the pump, but unfortunately just couldn't find a way to fit it in my case with all my other stuff.

 

A couple of days ago I got a second 240mm Corsair Radiator and redid the tubing to bring it into the fold.

 

So the path now goes like this....

XD5 Pump --> XC7 CPU Block --> XR5 240 Radiator --> XG7 GPU Block --> Second XR5 Radiator --> Back to Pump

 

When the system is on I can see the rpm's of the fan of the pump since I have the 4 pin cable plugged into the commander pro (i did port 6 as recommended in the instructions first, but have tried different ports) and the numbers all show up correct. However I could see the water wasn't pumping (that little spindle thing on the GPU is helpful). So after checking connections I powered up without the 4 Pin fan connector and could clearly hear the pump turn on and push water. If I plug that 4 pin connector back in, the pump shuts off.

 

The Temperature gauge reads just fine just so everyone knows.

 

A couple other things I added because the commander pro has only 6 fan connectors. I ordered 2x 3-way splitters (meant to order 2-way, but doesnt seem to have an effect as you will see). That way I could tell the icue software which two slots had fans on the radiators (2 fans on each).

 

I thought possibly the splitters were causing an issue so I removed them from the fold temporarily, plugged in just one fan per connector on the commander pro and the same thing happens.

 

Everything is working right except I cannot tell what the speed of the pump is without that cable plugged in. Of course when I plug it in, I can hear the pump turning off....almost like Im shorting something or have a loop somwhere, but Im at a loss.

 

Ive also tried resetting services in the icue software (uncheck the show only connected devices, restart services, check the box again).

 

Temps seem fine. The pump isnt hot even after gaming sessions because I think the fan is spinning, plus the case I have (in my profile drop down I filled out) has 3 front fans that the pump is connected to).

 

All of the fans RGB headers along with the CPU, GPU, and Hydro X go to a couple of lighting nodes....one with the case that has all 6 filled up which then heads over to a second one with second one. I do have the CPU RGB daisy chained to the Hydro X RGB and all the lighting works fine. The Corsair lighting strips I have plug into the commander pro and they work fine as well.

 

I have a bunch of profiles I have imported over time for various lighting effects and when I get a new one I fill out any missing pieces and generally copy my fan profiles over to each one.

 

So I am not sure what I am missing. As far as wires, everything seems the same as it was before I added the second radiator so I cant imagine why the pump would shut off when I plug in the fan header (and watch as the temps rise on up since the water isnt moving at that point).

 

Ive tried various google searches, but havent come up with anything useful so hopefully some experts on here can give me some suggestions on what to try. Short of tearing apart the water tubing, I can easily mess with the other wiring.

 

Thanks for any assistance ahead of time!

 

**EDIT** Just thought I would put the Commander Pro Connections in here in case they are needed**

-Port 1 - Top Radiator Fans (VIA splitter mentioned above)

-Port 2 - Back Case Fan

-Port 3 - Bottom Radiator Fans (VIA splitter mentioned above)

-Port 4 - Top Front Fan

-Port 5 - Normally would be pump fan

-Port 6 - Another Fan or the pump fan normally)

Edited by kabalas
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A few assumptions:

You have configured the fan port where the pump is connected as a PWM device (4 pin);

The pump fan profile is set to anything that doesn’t turn a “fan” off of under a certain temperature threshold;

The pump connector is not backwards;

 

Have you tried plugging the pump into any fan port directly at your motherboard, and used those controls (program or UEFI/BIOS) to spin it up? If the Commander Pro is at fault, this will tell. However if the same happens at the motherboard, then somehow the pump internal wiring got shorted and it is forcing it to not spin up.

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A few assumptions:

You have configured the fan port where the pump is connected as a PWM device (4 pin);

The pump fan profile is set to anything that doesn’t turn a “fan” off of under a certain temperature threshold;

The pump connector is not backwards;

 

Have you tried plugging the pump into any fan port directly at your motherboard, and used those controls (program or UEFI/BIOS) to spin it up? If the Commander Pro is at fault, this will tell. However if the same happens at the motherboard, then somehow the pump internal wiring got shorted and it is forcing it to not spin up.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes I condigured which port has the pump fan connector. Your idea about using the uefi interface is good and I'll go check in there just to see if I can spin it up since that's long before the icue software takes over. I have plenty of connectors left on the motherboard for this test.

 

I'm also going to try removing one of my splitters. I know I tried removing both originally and since they are 3 way, each has an extra port on it.

 

I know the lighting nodes have to fill up their ports from 1 to 6. I don't recall if the commander pro also has to do this.

 

Finally I'll double check the USB connectors on the commander pro. I know it has two.

 

Thanks and I will get back to you within the hour.

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Thanks for the quick reply. Yes I condigured which port has the pump fan connector. Your idea about using the uefi interface is good and I'll go check in there just to see if I can spin it up since that's long before the icue software takes over. I have plenty of connectors left on the motherboard for this test.

 

I'm also going to try removing one of my splitters. I know I tried removing both originally and since they are 3 way, each has an extra port on it.

 

I know the lighting nodes have to fill up their ports from 1 to 6. I don't recall if the commander pro also has to do this.

 

Finally I'll double check the USB connectors on the commander pro. I know it has two.

 

Thanks and I will get back to you within the hour.

 

Uh, the RGB/lightning ports on my Commander Pro are only two. The 6 ports are for the fans/pump...

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Uh, the RGB/lightning ports on my Commander Pro are only two. The 6 ports are for the fans/pump...

 

Yes I know. Sorry if I confused an issue. I was referring to the separate lighting nodes you can buy with the color strips (also the case I have, the 680x has one).

 

Anyways sorry for the confusion. I was wondering if the fan ports on the commander pro have to be filled in 1 through 6 or if I had 4 empty for whatever reason and had 1,2,3,5,6 filled if 5 and 6 would have an issue.

 

I was comparing that to the rgb hubs which state they need to be filled up in order.

 

Anyways I'm about to do the tests mentioned and will let you know what I find.

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A couple of things...

 

1) Do not "hot plug" the pumps tachometer line into the Commander Pro when the system is powered on (or when using the jumper to power SATA/molex). While I have done this a zillion times with every other fan and pump I have ever owned, but it did not turn out so well with the XD5. There are other reported incidents as well. If you want to regain software/PWM control over the pump, reconnect the wire to port 6 when powered down.

 

2) Why do you think the pump is powered off when the tachometer wire is on the Commander Pro? It should be really quiet down at the 800-1000 rpm default and might sound like it is off compared to the 4000+ rpm blast when there is no PWM control signal. Don't use the flow meter in the GPU as a definitive "flow vs zero flow" indicator. I am afraid it is not that perfect in application. Others have reported needing high pump speeds to get it to spin. You likely still have decent flow even if it is not moving. If you really don't have fluid movement, you can watch the coolant temp value start skipping upwards 25..30..35...40..45...50 and up. You will reach an alarm state withing 30-60 seconds. The fans will go bonkers. You will know.

 

3) It can be necessary to unplug the tach wire from the pump in order to create a lot more head pressure when filling up the loop first time. My one build with CPU/VRM/GPU blocks and a bottom to top flow was a real pain to get going. There is nothing wrong with using the pump at full power to accomplish this, but there are some issues to be aware of. Obviously it empties the reservoir rather quickly and you do not ever run the D5 dry -- even for a few seconds. The other problem is 4000 rpm + air is going to create a lot of bubbles. Those will go away in time, but if you don't have to turn your system into a seltzer bottle, it's better to skip that part. You can also try tipping the case a bit. This is all very hardware and loop design specific. The above described case is a pain. My 740 build that pumps up to the top and drains down can be filled in 5 seconds without ever needing to tilt or go high speed. Just one of those things.

 

So where are you at now in terms of needs? I don't think the pump/system is in a zero flow state. You will always need the tachometer/PWM wire plugged into the C-Pro or other header if you want to control the pump and see the speed. Make sure the Commander Pro is set to 4 pin (in the settings) and not Auto. With no 12v line, the auto feature won't pick it up.

 

 

**Commander Pro header order/population is unimportant. You can use 4 and 6 and leave the others empty. You can unplug them all and use it like a Lighting Node Pro. It makes no difference. You only need the pump on #6 if you wish to use the Corsair Hydro X preset pump and fan curves. It has to go somewhere. Might as well do #6 to make it an option, unless you are literally at the end of your rope and the cable won't reach.

Edited by c-attack
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Hey guys,

 

Looks like I got it working and the main issue was one of the pwn splitters I was using. 2 of the 3 ports worked, but I happened to plug into one that wasn't. Plus I removed my second splitter that I used for the two fans on the second radiator and had them plugged directly to the commander pro.

 

I decided to power down and recheck connections. Mainly the usb ones and one felt loose so I reseated all of them.

 

So the checklist looks like this now.

-Port 1 - Top Radiator Fans (VIA splitter mentioned above)

-Port 2 - Back Case Fan

-Port 3 - Bottom Radiator Fan 01

-Port 4 - Middle Front Fan (I changed this from the top fan since my pump is attached to it. That way I can control the air blowing on the pump itself).

-Port 5 - Bottom Radiator Fan 02

-Port 6 - Pump Tach

 

c-attack, thanks for bringing up about the hotplugging. I avoided it on the hydro-x, but had you not brought that up, I probably would have. As you said, Ive also done it with other fans plenty of times.

 

As far as why I was thinking the pump wasnt working? yes the spindle on the gpu was one indicator, but after I added the second radiator, water was just not pulling through the tubes and the temps for my CPU and GPU reached very high temps. Plus I could open my case door and get close to the pump and basically hear it when it was pushing water and when it wasnt. Without the tach it was definately pushing water and I was able to fill everything up (also being careful not to let the reservoir run empty as you stated. When it was plugged back into the commander, it went dead silent and you could almost burn your hand touching the CPU or GPU blocks while the radiators were cold.

 

I did double check the commander pro and make sure the fan settings were all set as 4 pin (as they all are 4 pin) and not auto or anything).

 

So im not sure exactly why that splitter caused an issue, but removing the extra one that I didnt really need and moving one of the top radiator fans to a free port on the splitter seems to have gotten things going.

 

I did the wizard to apply the profiles initially again, made a custom one for the fan the hydro x is hanging from. Then I made copies of the radiator fan profiles that it assigns through the wizards so I could play with the speed settings while keeping my originals in case I want them.

 

Now that everything was showing correctly and flowing, I fired up a game to basically get some heat going and fired up MSI Afterburner and used one of my profiles in that which is overclocked. Once the heat started I saw the radiator fans kick in and everything was cool to luke warm to the touch.

 

Im quite happy now seeing as this is my first build. Now im just waiting for my PCI 1x riser strip (kinda like those ones for 16x to vertically mount your GPU) because all the tubing and my back usb controller that plugs into the motherboard caused me to lose the spaces where I would put my creative soundblaster zx. I tried to use the onboard audio, and just didnt like it compared to the card (which can output everything as DTS or DD). So with the riser ribbon I can get it plugged in and clear everything.

 

I want to thank you both for your advice and how quickly you responded. You both gave me good advice in general and things to check which I will be saving for the future if I have any issues.

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Be somewhat careful with triple splitters on the Commander Pro. I have done it and it was fine. Others have reported issues. A triple splitter, but with only two fans connected (4 pin + 1-3pin) should work like a normal 2 way splitter and that should not be an issue. Also, splitters are made cheap from most places. The pile of ones I have that do no work was getting really large. I finally tossed them all and bought a pile of Noctua extensions and splitters this year. I used to think the colors were a bit over the top. With 9+ fans in a case, those yellow and green cables are beautiful and I can find the one I am trying to pull.

 

When Hydro X first launched, we had a lot of discussion about flow rate and the minimum required pump speed in the Hydro X curves. They are a bit low for my tastes. Blasting the pump isn't going to get you anything in terms of performance, but I do feel there is a minimum fluid pressure point where things are too slow. Anything below 1000 rpm on the pump is too low for me in a multi-component system. CPU only with short soft tubes to the radiator? OK. Large case with 3 components and 36" of vertical rise? Probably not. You don't need to blast the pump. You certainly go on your own and try different fixed speeds. You don't need the pump to be dynamically adjustable. The fans have more effect on coolant temp reduction. Try some different fixed speeds to find your comfort zone. Mine is about 2000 rpm in a a fairly complex 3 block system. I could go a little lower, but I also don't need to go higher on load.

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Be somewhat careful with triple splitters on the Commander Pro. I have done it and it was fine. Others have reported issues. A triple splitter, but with only two fans connected (4 pin + 1-3pin) should work like a normal 2 way splitter and that should not be an issue. Also, splitters are made cheap from most places. The pile of ones I have that do no work was getting really large. I finally tossed them all and bought a pile of Noctua extensions and splitters this year. I used to think the colors were a bit over the top. With 9+ fans in a case, those yellow and green cables are beautiful and I can find the one I am trying to pull.

 

When Hydro X first launched, we had a lot of discussion about flow rate and the minimum required pump speed in the Hydro X curves. They are a bit low for my tastes. Blasting the pump isn't going to get you anything in terms of performance, but I do feel there is a minimum fluid pressure point where things are too slow. Anything below 1000 rpm on the pump is too low for me in a multi-component system. CPU only with short soft tubes to the radiator? OK. Large case with 3 components and 36" of vertical rise? Probably not. You don't need to blast the pump. You certainly go on your own and try different fixed speeds. You don't need the pump to be dynamically adjustable. The fans have more effect on coolant temp reduction. Try some different fixed speeds to find your comfort zone. Mine is about 2000 rpm in a a fairly complex 3 block system. I could go a little lower, but I also don't need to go higher on load.

 

Good to know on the splitters. They Def aren't expensive ones. I'll keep it going for now, but I think I won't waste more money on cheaper ones trying to save money now that I have read your advice. So when the time comes, I'll just cough up the extra and rest easy.

 

I didn't think about setting the pump speed at a fixed rate. It looks like it hovers around the 2000 range. I kinda like that range right now with the Temps I'm seeing. So I'm not seeing a need to blast to way high. I'm not doing serious overclocking. Just want to keep the processor nice and cool and allow me to pump up afterburner a decent chunk which my first go around worked great. The afterburner overclock settings I have would crash most of the time and they don't break a sweat now.

 

I do want to replace the power supply cables like it sounds you did. One it makes it easier to find and two from the pictures I've seen, they are easier to cable manage.

 

I don't like wild rainbow color patterns. Most of what I found and imported stick with a primary color. I actually think I found the link from this forum go ogling around when I first was looking. People probably know the person, but it escapes me right now.

 

The 36" verticlr rise sounds like what I have. The 680x case I have has a radiator at the very top and very bottom. They were the best places I could fit them. I don't have a tube that goes 36" though as overall with having to go to the gpu/cpu/pump the runs are pretty short.

 

Sounds like you have messed with the product line for a while. Seems like there was some big woes at the beginning, but things I'm reading seems like corsair has worked on it and it has gotten a lot better. I'm happy with everything so far.

 

Also thankful for the help. I hate the forums when you are the "new guy" to a product and people go out of there way to be jerks VS offering help and/or insight. Just want to let you know I appreciate that. I'm not new to building systems, but to water cooling I am.

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Oh, well I am quite familiar with that set up. My other build is a Carbide 740 which is the same frame as the 680, just less glass. I've run it many configurations, but the current on is 280mm top and bottom. You likely ended up putting the pump in the back chamber (as did I). This should not be a difficult case to create flow. Do be aware that little GPU wheel likes to stick and takes a fair amount of pressure to spin. Water is still moving by, even if the spinner is still.
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Oh, well I am quite familiar with that set up. My other build is a Carbide 740 which is the same frame as the 680, just less glass. I've run it many configurations, but the current on is 280mm top and bottom. You likely ended up putting the pump in the back chamber (as did I). This should not be a difficult case to create flow. Do be aware that little GPU wheel likes to stick and takes a fair amount of pressure to spin. Water is still moving by, even if the spinner is still.

 

Good to know about the little wheel on the gpu plate so I don't get too alarmed. I'm definitely learning quite a bit.

 

As far as the placement of the pump goes I do think I will eventually move it to the spot you said. There is plenty of room and I've looked up a couple of videos that show that placement. Plus it will free up a lot of space in the motherboard side which in turn gives me more options on the routing of the tubing which I mentioned is getting in the way of my sound card.

 

Your advice and things you have come across in the past will definitely save me time and money and j want you to know that it is much appreciated.

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