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H115i Pro RGB, CPU temp


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Hi all,


AIO: H115i PRO RGB, vertical position in front - intake

CPU: I7-7700K - Turbo mode deactivated in BIOS

GPU: RTX 2080 Super

Case: Fractal Design define S2

Air cooling: 2 x 140 fans bottom of the case - intake

3 x 140 fans top of the case - exhaust

1 x 140 fans back of the case - exhaust

Room temp: 22°C


I recently bought a H115i PRO RGB to cool an I7-7700K to replace an air cooler Dark Rock 3. After 3 days of testing, I am very disappointed as the temps are much higher than the Dark Rock.


Here is iCUE dashboard idle (just firefox/iCUE open):



Temps idle sometimes raise to 50°C, VPCPU and cooler temps seems correct.


Here is another screenshot while running a test on AC Odyssey (2k resolution). VPCPU is 1.23, CPU temp 79°C and cooler temp rise only to 31°C. Previously with the Dark Rock, CPU has never exceed 72°C on this test



I am suspecting a bad contact between the pump and the CPU and I tried to remount the AIO several times with same results. The backplate seems well mounted:



One last thing that is surprising me is the thermal paste preinstalled on the AIO. When I uninstall it, there is no paste on the CPU. Is that normal ?


I have no more ideas to try to make it work…

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Your resting coolant temperature in picture 1 is a bit high for the room temp. 29C or +7C over ambient is kind of high for a front intake set up. Is there anything that might account for this? Dust filter, strange room placement, front intake is above a heater, etc.? However, the difference we are looking for there is a handful of degrees and likely not what you have in mind.


Don't use Odyssey for a health check. That game is a CPU mess and it can clock CPU temps higher than a stress test on my custom cooled system. I am still stupefied this game can eat 98% of my 8700K, even with some CPU sensitive settings turned down. Meanwhile GPU usage averages 85%.



"There is no paste on the CPU"


No, not normal and this is the place to start. Make sure you have the right standoffs on the MB. There are both 2011/3 and 115x ones included. Make sure you identify them. Make sure they are turned all the way into the motherboard. This should not require much force. It can fiddly with the backplate. When you lower the CPU block/pump onto the CPU (with TIM on the CPU), they both should come away messy if you pull it back up. For the original pre-applied paste, if it never spread, then contact was never made.

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Thank you for your quick answer.


Yes, 29°C for the coolant temperature is high but I don't see anything explaining that. But I have noticed that if I remove side panels of the case, the temp goes down to 25°C.


Regarding the standoffs, I am sure I have placed the 115x ones as I have all 4 of the 2011/3 ones. The 115x are turned all the way into the motherboard.

What is strange with the grey paste on the AIO is that it is very hard when I touch it and I don't see how it could spread on the CPU. I am about to remove it and apply ARTIC MX-4 but I am afraid I can't return the product after that.

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The pre-applied TIM has different properties at room temp. It has to be useful for its purpose. However, when applied to the CPU, it should have started to spread immediately. You don't need to do a burn test to sort that out. Odyssey should have started the spread 5 seconds into the benchmark.


Not sure where in the world you are, but one thing to bear in mind is what happens with Winter shipping. In the US ground shipping could be 3-5 days in the back of a non-heated truck. When we start getting really cold temps, funny things happen. It is possible the original TIM got too cold and is now not reacting as expected. Just another reason to clean it off and try the MX-4.


Removing the pre-applied TIM should not be grounds to reject a return, any more than opening the box. If someone is trying to block a return based on this, it's because they don't want to take a return. Go ahead and wipe and use the MX-4. That should make the contact more clear.

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Problem solved.

The removal of factory paste and reapplying a new one did great.

I have seen in game an improvement of 10 to 12°C.

I still have a warm coolant to 29°C idle so i will look more closely to the fans management as the case comes with a PWN fan hub.

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OK, good! I wouldn't sweat the idle coolant temp too much. Most people run +4-6C over the ambient air temp, with those using as front intake on the lower side. So "an improvement" would be about 2-3C lower at most. That only makes the CPU 2-3C warmer, so this is not a reason to start tearing things apart.


If you open the door and the temp drops to 25C, then it seems pretty clear it is airflow over the radiator or internal case temperature. A thick front panel or dust filter can cause the first. For the second, if air temp on one side of the rad is 22C and the other is 30C, you cooling on one side and warming on the other. I don't mean the radiator exhaust. That should be approximately equal to the coolant temp, but if t he general air temp in the case is already warmer than the exhaust air temp, then it has a warming effect.


Anyway, I think its better to toss this aside for now, go have some fun with it, and just generally observe behavior so you know what "normal" looks like. Some time later, you can start to fiddle around chasing those 2C, if you want.

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