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Cooling issue - H110X GTX Extreme


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Hello, I am running a H110X GTX Extreme and in the past couple of weeks, the system has shutdown due to over heating.


Happened again tonight. On the past weekend, replaced the thermal paste and blew all the dust out. System seemed to be working okay until tonight.


When the system froze, the cooler was still running at full speed. One side of the radiator was very hot but the other side was cold to the touch. I think the pump has died.


Not sure of the warranty but unit was ordered from Newegg in 2016, March.


Intel I7 processor.

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An update.


Downloaded Icue software and ran it. Looked like cooler got configured as quiet some how. Noticed some strange things after a Windows update as well.


As this is my son's computer, I will see how it works now. If the pump was running on quiet, then I would expect the issue as coolant wouldn't be running fast enough to spread.


He now knows how to run the software.

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The “Quiet” pump speed on the H110i GTX is not really that quiet and turns at just under 2000 rpm. You weren’t specific, but most any i7 will show no difference in coolant temperature between the high/low speed pump speed. If you kick the speed up to “Performance” at idle and the coolant temp takes a 3C plunge in about 10 seconds, then you likely have a developing flow problem.


Values vary based on power settings and physical layout, but your coolant temperature (H110i GTX Temp) typically idles about 4-6C above the room temp or at minimum the internal case temperature. In a cpu only load, probably about +6C. In mixed CPU/GPU use like gaming, +6-10C as the GPU heats up the case. A cooler with a flow issue will start off normal at cold boot, but then retain heat. The longer it’s on, the warmer it gets, and it takes hours to actually cool off after a load, instead of minutes.


If the pump died, there will be either a zero speed reading in the software (and bios) or the cooler will not be recognized at all in Link (assuming you connected the usb 2 cable to the motherboard). Without the usb, there will be no data. If fans and lights are on, the unit has power and pump should be moving. Hot and cold “feeling” is a strong warning sign. The coolant can only drop a little more than 1C in a pass through the radiator and so temp differences should be indistinguishable.


Ultimately you will probably need to contact Corsair through the support ticket system in the header above to replace the cooler. However, being specific about the temperature or physical state questions above may save you some back and forth. You will need a copy of the purchase invoice off your Newegg order history.

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Thank you C-Attack for the response.


From your comments, I am thinking I have a pump/flow issue starting.


Once we installed the Icue software and checked things, the temperature dropped quite quickly. After reading other posts about people tapping their cooler to get their pump working, I did the same.


The cooler is connected to USB, just like the Corsair power supply. Today I confirmed that the pump is connected to the CPU fan connector.


Tonight under intense gaming, the same as last night, it is staying cool.


The video card came with it's own integrated liquid cooling. I did add another case fan last night to blow room air close to the RAM and CPU.


In hindsight, I should have checked the temperature on both sides of the radiator before I did some work.


I will monitor the system closer now and gather data to contact Corsair with.


I will try the test you your suggestion about changing performance and seeing what happens.


I told my son to check the pump and fan speeds before gaming as a precaution so the system doesn't freeze in the middle of an online battle. The Cooler light is working as expected.

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Unfortunately that specific model seems vulnerable to this behavior, so it is possible there is an issue. Pump speed and to some degree radiator fan speed should not matter for gaming in regards to reaching throttle points or the safety shutdown. The difference between keeping the fans at 600 rpm and 1200 rpm should a few degrees - nothing that would push you into trouble. The pump speed should never matter, but when it starts to make a difference there are questions to ask.


Real quick way to test if there is a serious problem is radiator exhaust temp check. The exhaust air temp will be essentially the same as coolant temperature (-1 to 2C). So if he’s gaming, it should feel warm (27-35C). If it feels cold and the CPU temps are high, you may have a blockage. On the other hand is it is uncomfortably hot and coolant temp is also strongly elevated, something is keeping the heat from being expelled.


Air bubbles are possible, usually temporary, but also tend to make static or inconsistent clicky noises at idle or load. The more serious blockage from debris generally does not alter pump sound until the flow is nearly shut off. The pump often gets “whiny” as the back pressure accentuates the normal electrical hum. You can keep tapping the pump /hoses, tilting the case, or cycling the pump speed (low/high/low/high) as long as it is effective. However, ultimately you will reach a point where this will no longer be a solution.

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Again, thank you for the information.


I have told him to monitor it. Seems to be acting up again now. A blockage seems to make sense. 10 C difference between inlet side and other side of radiator. Will tap again to see if that makes a difference.


I guess it is time for a ticket, sooner than later.

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