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Commander Pro Fans Full Speed Until iCue Launches


ciscogaming
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Hi,

 

So as the title states, I have the annoying issue when booting up my PC that all fans connected to the Commander Pro will rev at 100% (atleast it sounds like it) until I login and iCue is started and has loaded the cooling profile.

 

Is there anyway to fix this? Very annoying when you want a quiet setup but it's loud as a hurricane when booting up (And in UEFI BIOS).

 

All help is much appreciated!

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Hi,

 

So as the title states, I have the annoying issue when booting up my PC that all fans connected to the Commander Pro will rev at 100% (atleast it sounds like it) until I login and iCue is started and has loaded the cooling profile.

 

Is there anyway to fix this? Very annoying when you want a quiet setup but it's loud as a hurricane when booting up (And in UEFI BIOS).

 

All help is much appreciated!

 

 

I need to change one thing. It's not until iCue boots. Only until Windows 10 boots. When I quit iCue the fans continue to run normal. So it's only until Windows boots up and in bios that fans are running at 100%. Any ideas?

 

Tried reseting and updating BIOS with no success.

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The rest of your control group is cut off in the drop down menu, but obviously it is a motherboard derived value and the software has to be running to interpret data from other sources. It is possible the controller defaults to 100% in the absence of the data or it may be related to your fan type. You you have DC or PWM fans on the Commander Pro?

 

Using the native temp probes eliminates this since the controller has data to read from the start.

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The rest of your control group is cut off in the drop down menu, but obviously it is a motherboard derived value and the software has to be running to interpret data from other sources. It is possible the controller defaults to 100% in the absence of the data or it may be related to your fan type. You you have DC or PWM fans on the Commander Pro?

 

Using the native temp probes eliminates this since the controller has data to read from the start.

 

How do I know if it's PWM or DC? It's all Corsair RGB fans anyway.

 

Is it recommended to use the included temp sensors for the commander pro instead? If so, where to put it?

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PWM fans have a 4 pin connector, always run at 12v, but use a pulse signal to make the fan change speed. DC motor fans have a 3 pin connector and you alter the speed by controlling the voltage between 5-12v. This becomes relevant at start up when most fans have a power on voltage of 7-10v. Most controllers will do the full 12v blast on power on to make sure they all start. The PWM controller instantly checks the speed with a pulse and it does not need to change voltage.

 

The ML, LL, and HD fans are all PWM. The SP120-RGB are the odd duck DC motor. So if this is a 460/570x, that may not be solvable. However, if the fans are PWM the temp probe will work. What is your control source now? GPU temp? Cpu temp? All you need to do is run 1 of the wires from the C-Pro to a spot in the case that has a decent amount of temp change. You can also run it to the back of the radiator to approximate coolant temp. Or both. What’s best likely depends on your case set up and how you use the pc. Case fans help control internal case temperature and nothing heats your case up more than the GPU, unless you never use it.

Edited by c-attack
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PWM fans have a 4 pin connector, always run at 12v, but use a pulse signal to make the fan change speed. DC motor fans have a 3 pin connector and you alter the speed by controlling the voltage between 5-12v. This becomes relevant at start up when most fans have a power on voltage of 7-10v. Most controllers will do the full 12v blast on power on to make sure they all start. The PWM controller instantly checks the speed with a pulse and it does not need to change voltage.

 

The ML, LL, and HD fans are all PWM. The SP120-RGB are the odd duck DC motor. So if this is a 460/570x, that may not be solvable. However, if the fans are PWM the temp probe will work. What is your control source now? GPU temp? Cpu temp? All you need to do is run 1 of the wires from the C-Pro to a spot in the case that has a decent amount of temp change. You can also run it to the back of the radiator to approximate coolant temp. Or both. What’s best likely depends on your case set up and how you use the pc. Case fans help control internal case temperature and nothing heats your case up more than the GPU, unless you never use it.

 

All my fans are PWM.

 

I just tested with the temp sensor. All quiet now. So thanks alot!

I had them setup on a temp sensor on the motherboard. Now I just have the C Pro temp sensor sticking out through a cabling hole in the Obsidian 500D.

Still don't really know where or how to put it. So any tips would be great. Here i a picture of my setup.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BsTVJBNna_V/

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OK, then this is going to better regardless. No inherent advantage to using the motherboard temp sensor for case fan control vs the probe, and of course the probe is movable and works all the time.

 

While you could stick the thing into the center of the case, I don't see the benefit and you will see the wire. I would suggest you do one or both of the following.

 

1) If your case rear faces the wall and you don't see it, you can run the thermistor wire from the backside of the case, out any crack you can find, and tape it so the sensor end sticks is exposed to the rear fan. This effectively becomes "rear exhaust air temp" and should have a good range to make setting a fan curve easier and is actually a measure of the current case temperature. The benefit is it will have a strong correlation to GPU activity.

 

2) Run another thermistor wire to the back side of the H150. It can be top, bottom, or middle fan - it really doesn't matter. This will give you an air temp reading and should be equivalent to the coolant temperature, usually with a 1-2C offset. (When coolant is 27, air temp is 25. When coolant is 32, air temp is 30C, etc.). It is predictable and constant and will give another way to control your total intake in relation to the front fans.

 

Of course you can do both for the purpose of experimentation or to have two control sources. Rear fan could run from the "rear exhaust temp" probe and the top could run from the radiator probe. Not necessary, but it would offer more control or another layer of case fan management. Both will keep the fans from maxing out.

 

Unrelated, do you have 3LL, 2 HD and 1 ML-RGB in there? That must have been fun to wire up.

Edited by c-attack
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OK, then this is going to better regardless. No inherent advantage to using the motherboard temp sensor for case fan control vs the probe, and of course the probe is movable and works all the time.

 

While you could stick the thing into the center of the case, I don't see the benefit and you will see the wire. I would suggest you do one or both of the following.

 

1) If your case rear faces the wall and you don't see it, you can run the thermistor wire from the backside of the case, out any crack you can find, and tape it so the sensor end sticks is exposed to the rear fan. This effectively becomes "rear exhaust air temp" and should have a good range to make setting a fan curve easier and is actually a measure of the current case temperature. The benefit hear is will have a strong correlation to the GPU activity.

 

2) Run another thermistor wire to the back side of the H150. It can be top, bottom, or middle fan - it really doesn't matter. This will give you an air temp reading and should be equivalent to the coolant temperature, usually with a 1-2C offset. (When coolant is 27, air temp is 25. When coolant is 32, air temp is 30C, etc.). It is predictable and constant and will give another way to control your total intake in relation to the front fans.

 

Of course you can do both for the purpose of experimentation or to have two control sources. Rear fan could run from the "rear exhaust temp" probe and the top could run from the radiator probe. Not necessary, but it would offer more control or another layer of case fan management. Both will keep the fans from maxing out.

 

Unrelated, do you have 3LL, 2 HD and 1 ML-RGB in there? That must have been fun to wire up.

 

Okey thanks alot for the help! :)

 

Yes it's actually the 3LL fans that were in the Obisidian 500D RGB SE. The 1 ML fan is froom the Liquid cooler which I didn't use since I mounted the radiator on the 500D already mounted fans. So I just put it in the rear, and the 2 HD fans is from my last build. So it got a bit of a mix and really I just plugged all 6 of them in to the same lighting hub, and set 6 LL fans in iCue. It works for like solid colors, but rainbow etc looks abit strange.

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OK, well as long as you are OK with it, then it's fine. For it to follow the exact instructions in iCUE, each fan type would need to have it's own RGB Lighting Hub and LED channel on the LNP or Commander Pro. That would be a nightmare.

 

Yes, you can manipulate the effects based on the type of fan you input into iCUE and the number of fans you specify. The program is counting LEDs, so you can change to numbers to try and fit what you have [3LLx16 + 2HDx12 + 1MLx4 = 76 LEDs in total]. That number won't quite work out evenly, but you can probably tell it 5xLL or 6xHD and see if one or the other provides better sequenced effects.

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6x HD won't work - that'll come out to 72 LEDs. If the ML fan is last on the chain, it won't be lit. 5x LL is the only option. And yeah, the effects would be odd.

Another option is to put the LL on one channel and the HD and ML on the other. That'll keep the effects a bit more even (1x HD == 3x ML).

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