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H115i fan speed problem (one more i guess)


Srraydergame

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Hello everybone here.

 

I recently bought pc and guess what i bought h115i cooler for cpu as i thought its the best.

 

Well two days later i wanted to ch3ck my system and noticed that on idle my cpu temp is 60 degrees, at around 50% cpu load temps.goes 87-93 degrees.

 

I checked fans in corsair software and it says

pump 2500-2700rpm,

fan 1 1000rpm

Fan 2 1300rpm

 

I have tryed to place in software extreme preset or even manualy esiting speeds but nothing happens, speed doesnt change. Tryed to update firmware but it says therenis no one.

 

I have successfuly changed LED color and it works ok but fans speed nope.

 

I have connected 2 fans to power.cables, sata cable as.power supply and usb 2.0 cable to mobo.

 

Im using asus rog maximus x formula mobo.

 

Any suggestions what might be wrong or how to fix it?

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Can you verify which software package you are using (Link or iCUE)? “Extreme” sounds like iCUE. It has a different method of applying settings. Click the setting first, then ‘highlight’ the fan or pump to make it part of that group. Fan speeds may not change between settings at low coolant temperature, so a more direct way to measure control is to click the + symbol and add a new “cooling mode”. This is a customizable fan curve that also includes fixed rpm and % making it clear if the fans are following directions.

 

Make sure you get your information from the H115i device icon or box on the dashboard. Don’t use the motherboard info to measure pump or fan speeds. Also, what is the H115i Temp (coolant temperature) in the software? This is a better indicator of device performance.

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The pump speed is correct. On the H115i (and most other Corsair coolers), it is a simple low/high toggle at fixed speed. As for the fans, it certainly appears they are non-responsive and there may be an issue with the internal fan controller. However, despite how the software portrays the fans, there is only one control channel (speed signal). Try swapping the connections for the two fans on the pump splitter. Sometimes you get a bad connection on the speed end.

 

All that aside, I am concerned about the coolant temperature as well. In your screenshot it is hovering just below 40C. That is quite warm unless your room/case temp is also very warm and you just finished some kind of load activity. General estimates are your coolant temp at idle should be about +4-7C above your room temperature, with CPU model and basic power settings pushing it up or down. For comparison (and I am assuming your are using a 8700K or 8086) my 8700K at 5.0/1.30v has never made it past 36C under load and when it a 30C room. The only way to reach 40C with that processor is to heat up the case (usually with the GPU) until the entire environment is 36-40C. Does any of that match your current conditions?

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The pump speed is correct. On the H115i (and most other Corsair coolers), it is a simple low/high toggle at fixed speed. As for the fans, it certainly appears they are non-responsive and there may be an issue with the internal fan controller. However, despite how the software portrays the fans, there is only one control channel (speed signal). Try swapping the connections for the two fans on the pump splitter. Sometimes you get a bad connection on the speed end.

 

All that aside, I am concerned about the coolant temperature as well. In your screenshot it is hovering just below 40C. That is quite warm unless your room/case temp is also very warm and you just finished some kind of load activity. General estimates are your coolant temp at idle should be about +4-7C above your room temperature, with CPU model and basic power settings pushing it up or down. For comparison (and I am assuming your are using a 8700K or 8086) my 8700K at 5.0/1.30v has never made it past 36C under load and when it a 30C room. The only way to reach 40C with that processor is to heat up the case (usually with the GPU) until the entire environment is 36-40C. Does any of that match your current conditions?

 

 

Hello,

 

first of all i have to thank you all for constructive feedback. I really appreciate.

 

I think i took a picture after some prime test so temperature went up. Temperature in room is around 24 -27 degrees or so. Currently temperature is 36.6C of coolant on idle pc.

 

Ye im using 8700k overclocked 5.0/1.35V should make that big difference with 0.05V.

 

I will try now to switch places of fans cable on pump and give you feedback.

 

Also case is nzxt h700i so airflow should not be a problem. GPU is overclocked as well but not passing 65 degrees on full load. What actualy concern me is that fans doest react on speed tuning in software, so i can put my graphic to keep coolant colder.

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OK, then I think there is a problem with the internal fan controller on the H115i, particularly since the behavior spans both Link and iCUE. Additionally, something is off with the coolant temp as well. I benchmark at 1000 rpm with 140mm fans on a 280mm, so to be 10-15C over the room temp with those fan speeds suggests an internal problem as well. This seems like a double disaster.

 

If you just bought the unit, the fastest resolution is going to be a return to vendor as defective. If you have the option, I would suggest looking for the H115i PRO that replaced that cooler. The general functionality is more or less the same and so is performance. However, I think there is a case to made for increased reliability and that is usually the prime attribute. Better stock fans for sure.

 

If you have had it a while or the vendor is not friendly, you can contact Corsair directly through the Ticket Support System at the top of this page. Corsair will RMA the cooler. You will need to upload the purchase invoice, but also specifically mention the cooler is brand new.

 

No BIOS settings really matter on the Formula. It is always a good idea to Disable/Full Speed/100% the control header for the cooler, but in this case the power is SATA supplied and that practice more precautionary to keep the Q-Fan tuning program from hanging when you run that in the Advanced BIOS. Some coolers do get their power from the header and that is critical. Immediate move while waiting would be to move the H115i header to AIO or W_PUMP, then put the two radiator fans on CPU/OPT. You can also leave the H115i header where it is and use a CHA fan header for the fans. However, those stock SP140L fans are a bit heavy on the current draw and I would exercise caution running them from a splitter on any single motherboard header (1.0A). The HAMP header on the Formula would solve that issue, although in my experience it sometimes gets a little jumpy on wake/boot and I grew tired of the 2000 rpm blast.

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Hello again ,

 

here im with update.

 

Welll i have played whole day with this and here is bottom line situation:

 

I have tried to move pump to aio_pump, to CPU header, to h_ amp jack and no success. Then i connected fans directly to mobo, pump to Aio_pump, fans to Cpu header and CPU_OPT connector. I saw them recognizing in bios etc. Q-fan disabled and loaded in windows, installed AI Suite 3 and saw fans, i could not move on custom rpms more than 1150 , it was like capped overthere. If i used to move slider down to for example 400rpm it works, fan goes down to 400rpm, but no option to above 1150 rpm at all, looks like its limited.

 

Does any1 have clue how this is possible? is it something in BIOS? is something turned that prevents fans to go avove 1150 at all?

 

At the end since pump speed seems good, i would say that cooler is ok but ineed to break this limitation somehow...

 

Motherboard im using is: Asus rog maximus X formula ( 5 days old)

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Well, I think we have found part of the problem. You already have a H115i PRO. Those ML140-Quiet fans max out at 1200 in free air, which is going to be about 1100 rpm against the resistance of the radiator. This is substantially different than the 2000 rpm fan on the H115i - an older model. The icon within the picture of iCue was too small for me to see until I put it up on my large monitor.

 

But now we are back to your coolant temp - H115i PRO Temp or in your screen just "temp" on the right side of the pump picture. 39C is a lot for any kind of idle conditions unless the inside of your case is 35-39C. iCUE is not great at monitoring Asus motherboard data , so you may want to momentarily quit iCUE (and the CorsairService in task manager) and try HWINFO, HWMon, or something else to get the motherboard temp, drive temps, and anything else to compare to establish some sort of ambient temp.

 

Where is the radiator mounted? Top exhaust?

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well...seems im working too much lately.

 

i have opened cooler box like 20 times checking is there something left or missed and didnt realize , ye its h115i pro cooler.

 

I also checked screws on platening and i made like 2 more circles to tight it up on all 4. So at monday i wll reinstall it (remove it ,make new thermal paste and install it), maybe thermal paste get screwed by that small air flow coz of screw (other guys assembled it , i didnt have time)

 

Radiator is located on top of case.

 

I just checked HWMonitor and iCUE as well

 

Mobo:34 degreees

GPU 56 degrees

CPU 39-42 degrees (with some spikes to 47)

RAM 42 degrees

HDDs and SSDs from 28-46 degrees

 

iCUE temp of coolant 33.8 degrees

 

Room temperature around 26-28 degrees

 

If you come across some more idea let me know.

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Based on the above, the general case temperature is around 33-34C, that is as low the coolant can possibly be, and the idle core temps are floating just above that. Coffee Lake is never just sitting idle and if you are used to older processors going flatline when at idle, this will be somewhat concerning until you get used to very dynamic nature. All of this suggests things are they should be.

 

However, that brings us back to the original event with temps running in the 60-90 zone while on the desktop. We may never figure out exactly what it was, but I am assuming that was a one time event. One thing to be mindful of is Asus Aura/iCUE will occasionally hang. I have not had trouble with iCUE on the Asus Z370 chipset, but Aura, whether through its own design or conflict with other programs most certainly does get caught up running 14-15% in the background instead of <1%. Managing multiple RGB software programs is probably the largest daily task you will have in this current environment. I get a little tired of it at times and wish I had left things as they were.

 

The other thing you absolutely should do is take a look at Asus' OC guide for the Z270 boards from a while back. It is virtually unchanged for Z370. If you are running adaptive voltage at 1.35v (or any other value), you must set the IA/DC Load Line to 0.01 for both. Not doing so will cause the vcore to overshoot by large margins and at a target 1.35, that could easily take you into the 90s. If you are on manual/fixed, then we may have to look a little harder.

 

You certainly can give the TIM another go. There might be a small improvement, but also watch out for the support bracket itself. I don't know, maybe I was just spoiled form being on 2011/3 for so long, but I found it really fiddly and needed to do it twice to get it right. However, by and large, I think most of your high end CPU temps will be voltage based. 1.35v is a large number for a non-delid 8700K.

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You do not have any issues at all. Delid your 8700K and see a 20-30C drop in temps. I have an overclocked 5820K which outputs a similar amount of heat (160-180W), but due to the larger and soldered heatspreader my load temps are only around 75C @ 900RPM.
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You do not have any issues at all. Delid your 8700K and see a 20-30C drop in temps. I have an overclocked 5820K which outputs a similar amount of heat (160-180W), but due to the larger and soldered heatspreader my load temps are only around 75C @ 900RPM.

 

C-attak thank you very much for so detailed help, if you were anywhere close me i would take u to the beer just for take time to make help so detailed.

 

tiessar

 

what do you mean delid my cpu?

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what do you mean delid my cpu?

 

De-lidding is the process of removing the integrated heat spreader (IHS) from an Intel CPU in order to replace the Thermal Interface Material (TIM) between the CPU Core and the IHS. The Intel supplied TIM is notoriously inefficient; replacing this with a higher quality TIM, especially liquid metal such as Cool Laboratories Liquid Ultra, typically results in a pronounced drop in core temperatures, especially at load. The claim of 20C is not exaggerated.

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De-lidding is the process of removing the integrated heat spreader (IHS) from an Intel CPU in order to replace the Thermal Interface Material (TIM) between the CPU Core and the IHS. The Intel supplied TIM is notoriously inefficient; replacing this with a higher quality TIM, especially liquid metal such as Cool Laboratories Liquid Ultra, typically results in a pronounced drop in core temperatures, especially at load. The claim of 20C is not exaggerated.

 

aaaa wont do that yet..not going for OC record...will just change thermal paste and check temperatures...for some good gaming is all i need...

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Understandable not to want to do it right after receiving a brand new CPU as it obviously voids the Intel warranty. I paid for the binned and delidded CPU from a vendor. Best money I ever spent. Still have a warranty and it turned managing CPU temps into ignoring CPU temps. Even on a blazing hot day with a 30C room temp, the peak core temps will never make it past 60C at 5.0 with mild fan speeds. Stress tests are in the low 60s at that elevated room temp as well.

 

Anyway, you certainly don't have to delid to make this work. However, in the bang for your buck category nothing else compares. Fan speeds, pump speeds, placement, fan design --- all of these things are single (sometimes literally) digit modifiers. New high speed fans? -2C CPU temp@2000 rpm. Nice work! Compare that to the -20 to 25C you typically reduce core temps by with the delid and the rest is trivial. Then you can spend all your time and money on things that glow and come in 256 colors.

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