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h100i V2 loud noise


CeJay
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That’s pretty bad. Disconnect the two fans from the y splitter and see if it stops. If it’s the pump, it should be easier to detect.

 

In Link, what is your H100i v2 Temp (coolant temperature)? The fans seem awfully fast (they don’t need to be) and a high coolant temp might also suggest a pump issue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's definitely the fans, I was able to recreate the noise by spinning them manually.

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The pump sits at 40c, while the fan sits at around 2500 rpm and the pump is around 1700-1800 rpm. This is underload in BF1.

Edited by CeJay
wrong information
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A few things...

 

Those fans are loud and you certainly don't need to be running them at 2000+ rpm. I suspect the cooler may be pushing them up because you have crossed the 40C coolant threshold (H100i v2 Temp). There is nothing particularly special about 40C, but most people stay under it so we should find out why you are not.

 

1) Your pump speed is just a bit low. That has nothing to with the fans directly, but this is often a sign you are cutting a little voltage from the pump, usually unintentionally. Go into the BIOS and make sure the header powering the H100i v2 is set to "Full Speed" in EZ BIOS Q-fan or "disabled" in the Advanced BIOS -> Monitor -> Q-fan section.

 

2) Most people with an 8700K and 240mm radiator are going have idle coolant temps between 4-7C over your ambient room temperature or roughly equivalent to the internal case temperature. You might then see CPU only loads of +6C beyond the idle point. Moderate CPU + high GPU loads like gaming can cause a +10C rise or more, depending on how much the GPU is heating up the case. It's not that there is more load for the cooler, but the internal case temps goes up by a lot more during prolonged gaming. That raises the coolant temp as well and messes with your fan curve.

 

If you have a Summer time room temps of 25-28C, +4-7C inside the case, +5-10C more heavy load, you can get to 40C+, but you need to make sure your numbers make sense. Short term, set a manual fan curve to turn those things down. 1800 rpm vs 2400 rpm is irrelevant for this type of heat load. Anything over 1500 is a bit loud for me.

 

Those fans specifically are not my favorite by a long shot. Additionally, mounted in an inverted position (like most people will to push waste heat out the top) exacerbates their bearing design weakness and makes the blade wobble on the end of the spindle. I generally recommend anyone who is even slightly particular about noise replace them with something more to their liking. Lots of choices. The ML series (RGB or not) is a very effective replacement with a massively lower noise profile. Its bearing design is not affected by inversion.

Edited by c-attack
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How can I tell which header it is in bios, I’m pretty sure the pump is powered by a usb header

 

It is not powered by the USB header. It's powered by the fan header that the pump is connected to. Please see the Cooler FAQ in my sig.

  • Confused 1
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A few things...

 

Those fans are loud and you certainly don't need to be running them at 2000+ rpm. I suspect the cooler may be pushing them up because you have crossed the 40C coolant threshold (H100i v2 Temp). There is nothing particularly special about 40C, but most people stay under it so we should find out why you are not.

 

1) Your pump speed is just a bit low. That has nothing to with the fans directly, but this is often a sign you are cutting a little voltage from the pump, usually unintentionally. Go into the BIOS and make sure the header powering the H100i v2 is set to "Full Speed" in EZ BIOS Q-fan or "disabled" in the Advanced BIOS -> Monitor -> Q-fan section.

 

2) Most people with an 8700K and 240mm radiator are going have idle coolant temps between 4-7C over your ambient room temperature or roughly equivalent to the internal case temperature. You might then see CPU only loads of +6C beyond the idle point. Moderate CPU + high GPU loads like gaming can cause a +10C rise or more, depending on how much the GPU is heating up the case. It's not that there is more load for the cooler, but the internal case temps goes up by a lot more during prolonged gaming. That raises the coolant temp as well and messes with your fan curve.

 

If you have a Summer time room temps of 25-28C, +4-7C inside the case, +5-10C more heavy load, you can get to 40C+, but you need to make sure your numbers make sense. Short term, set a manual fan curve to turn those things down. 1800 rpm vs 2400 rpm is irrelevant for this type of heat load. Anything over 1500 is a bit loud for me.

 

Those fans specifically are not my favorite by a long shot. Additionally, mounted in an inverted position (like most people will to push waste heat out the top) exacerbates their bearing design weakness and makes the blade wobble on the end of the spindle. I generally recommend anyone who is even slightly particular about noise replace them with something more to their liking. Lots of choices. The ML series (RGB or not) is a very effective replacement with a massively lower noise profile. Its bearing design is not affected by inversion.

 

I changed the setting in the bios and the pump is working much faster now, and isn't going about 35c, the fans are also spinning slower and are much quieter. I'm going to look into replacing the fans with noctuas. Thank you so much!

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I changed the setting in the bios and the pump is working much faster now, and isn't going about 35c, the fans are also spinning slower and are much quieter. I'm going to look into replacing the fans with noctuas. Thank you so much!

 

I'm not sure why it is but Corsair and Noctua don't seem to get along very well. I would recommend replacing them with ML series fans. RGB is absolutely optional.

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Just make sure to keep the pump header (probably CPU fan) set to 100%/Full Speed or disabled in the BIOS. It will reset any time you update the BIOS, which there is a new version out now. It is easy to forget about the fans when you have to do your entire overclock, voltage, and power limits all over again.
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