H2O-ski Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 I just wondering if there would be any problems with adding one of Koolance's cases with watercooling into the loop. I was thinking of placing it after the cpu then from the case to gpu then back to the hydrocool. As of right now I am within the window of 200 watts, but during the Texas summer my room gets the setting sun and that really pushes the temps up. I currently have a 3.2 @ 3.7 and a 9800 pro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 H2O-ski you mean the complete koolance system? best use cool independant from koolance for to get best of both liquid systems if adding to loop, will add load on the pump an slow flow for the flow rates are geared to each system im sure you'll have room to add Cool on the GPU or CPU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O-ski Posted January 31, 2005 Author Share Posted January 31, 2005 Yes I meant a complete system like http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=28_43&products_id=90Koolance system That is what I kinda figured since the delphi pump is higher pressure than the Koolance systems. I already have my cpu and gpu watercooled with the hydrocool. It is that ambient temps in my room can reach 80-85F (26-29C). During games the water temps will get around 36C. Guess I'll have to limit the overclock on my cpu then. Thanks fo the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 H2O-ski whats the lay out of case fans ? for the HCX can place near the air conditon vent(or use 4" flex dryer hose to intake of HCX) this will help to cool down more for OC'ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O-ski Posted February 1, 2005 Author Share Posted February 1, 2005 Unfortunately for me my ac duct come in from the ceiling. And I don't think my parents would like me to have ducting run that far. I have a single 120 mm fan blowing on the ram, NB, and PWM. I also did the fan mod to the cooler with a 120X38 mm fan sucking. To help keep the room cool I planted a vine trellis in front of the window to help, Here in Texas we have had a mild winter with some days getting as warm as 75F. The processor runs at 100% almost all the time for distrubed computing and I have seen it run up to 50C. I expiremented with my processor and it will do 4GHz but needs to much voltage for my taste, and my 9800 pro will do 475 without a problem, just the temps are a little to high for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGCJerry Posted February 1, 2005 Share Posted February 1, 2005 Sounds like the world I'm in though not in Texas. I have a small room with no environment control (A/C or heat), and the temp easily climbs into 80F in the room. However, I have an entry-level water cooling setup (Kingwin AWC-1) and I usually get 50-53C with no overclock. I was able to improve my temps by installing my rad in the front of the case by removing the rivets and the bottom drive cage. I was running up on 60C with air cooling, so water cooling was a good idea. :) I'd put my 6600GT on the loop, but I doubt my setup could displace enough cooling... So, you're not the only one fighting the hot temps. :) MGCJerry, Suriving in the Florida heat... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted February 1, 2005 Share Posted February 1, 2005 just a thought chiller an beer/pop cooler small enough to to fit in your rooms place pump rad unit in bar fridge ,for chill extra use Aux rez in the freezer compartment drill holes for tubes to pass rear wall seal up with chaulking extra length tubing an closed cell foam tubing for insulation over top of tube to computer MB use dielectric grease on the CPU socket for protection of dew if you get temps to low,all depends on humidity, 5f (coolant temp) drop over ambiant temp ok, beyond that need extra protection also use low tox anti-freeze PG base for coolant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O-ski Posted February 1, 2005 Author Share Posted February 1, 2005 I like the idea of a water chiller. I have been browsing xtremesystems.org on the water chilling. Seems like a better way to cool the pc, but it is going to be a pain to insulate the system because of humidity. MGCJerry that sucks to not have a/c, and I too move to water cooling after getting 60+C cpu temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev Posted February 2, 2005 Share Posted February 2, 2005 At one time another HC200 user purchased a college dorm fridge and placed the HC200 in there. He used standard foam to seal around the fridge door and allowed the tubes to pass through to the computer. :biggrin: His basic attempt only showed a marginal temperature improvement. :sigh!: Things to keep in mind ... When temps are lowered beyond ambient, condensation will occur on the tubing and other components. The more the temps move towards to 0C (32F) the copper cold-block will show condensation. Also, as the temps move towards 0C, the coolant mixture for freeze protection must be recalculated. A 40% PG to distilled water could be needed. :!: The power going to the HC200 external box will lose amps, due to the gage of wire and the colder temps. So, everything will slow even further. :!: The 120mm fan will slow down due to the colder temps in the fridge. Even though it is around 97cfm (turbo mode) at ambient room temps, it may drop the speed significantly too. :!: The Bosch pump will still draw the required amps since the pump is engineered for temps down around -40C. But, by then, the coolant will become slushy. :bigeyes: Cooling the unit to 10-12C (50-55F) could be the lowest point that the HC200 would still function well as engineered. :biggrin: However, condensation controls will need to be put into practice. :biggrin: Stev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted February 2, 2005 Share Posted February 2, 2005 yip fan/pump will slow down due to scr sensor ambiant out of norm range. with control board in room works better.if real handy mount control board on the fridge door ;) today is -7 outside im running CPU@30c with mild OC, HCX@21c, room@24c got my summer chiller coming ebay for $75, so iknows i got my work cutout for insulating WB an changing quick connects from my outdoor rad to chiller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev Posted February 2, 2005 Share Posted February 2, 2005 Nope, nothing about sensors. General electrical rule of thumb; the colder something powered gets, the less speed it is able to do. But, the torque goes up. If the wires are too thin of a gage, then the engery is at a loss to supply the amps at a colder temp. Stev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted February 2, 2005 Share Posted February 2, 2005 nothing a 20watt :idea: blub to heat motor casing up with tin foil wrapped, used that for cold climate on compressors to keep the oil thin. 1.6amp draw ;): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O-ski Posted February 3, 2005 Author Share Posted February 3, 2005 Does anyone know where I can find a radiator with the 1/4 in. inner diameter fittings? I can't seem to find one at any of the major online sites. For a water chiller I would take a small window a/c unit and place the evaporator (I think) in the water. Those water chillers are nice but for the money a phase change unit would be more practical. Plus having to insulate all of the water lines would be tough. I can get away with no insulatiuon in the winter but anytime esle my computer would be soaked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 For a water chiller I would take a small window a/c unit and place the evaporator (I think) in the water. yes but it would freeze up, need to make a liquid tight vessel an have both evaporator an rad in low tox PG anti-freeze, an the senor blub to control temp then insulate outside. an also remove evap fan blade to cut noise down an make room for heat transfer vessel do u mean 1/4" hose barbs? or the colder products quick connects. 1/4 rad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O-ski Posted February 3, 2005 Author Share Posted February 3, 2005 I'm looking for a radiator like the one Koolance has but, a dual 80mm radiator would be preferable. As for a making a water chiller, I think that I would start with a whole new system from scratch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted February 5, 2005 Share Posted February 5, 2005 look here H2O-ski smaller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O-ski Posted February 7, 2005 Author Share Posted February 7, 2005 Unfortunately that radiator does not fit anywhere in my case. I can fit a dual 80 mm or a single 120 mm on the back. I was thinking about using a heater core but I can not find a site that sells them with correct size fittings for the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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