Jump to content
Corsair Community

Are these temps ok with the H60?


DrJester
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm scratching my head here, after replacing a defective watercooler with a Corsair H60, I'm getting these temperatures. Somehow I expected them to be a bit lower, but I'm not so sure, can someone elucidate me if these are fine? I'm afraid I may have botched the installation of the H60 and its thermal paste.

 

I'm using a push fan system, the CM Sniper case(so plenty of fans), clean cable management and a very old Intel i7 960 running at the default clock of 3.2GHz. (I can't afford to upgrade)

 

I'm running the Furmark CPU Burner for 3 or so minutes in the screenshot.

tempscpu.thumb.png.0ecdcc5bfe134caf1cca4152e7dcfe33.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't use Furmark for anything and can't really compare. Either way, if you get an unexpected result, it's always good to run an alternate test to see how it compares. Run something CPU specific and moderate, like Intel XTU. It is a fairly easy stress test with a sine wave like loading pattern. Before you begin, click the wrench on the line graph and configure it to show your 4 cores (0-3).

 

I am thinking back to my old 930 and voltatges, but I don't see anything particularly out of the ordinary at 1.22v. That might be more than necessary for 3.2, but if that is what you have been using there is no need to change it until this is resolved.

 

When you load into windows, are your CPU temps normal, but then slowly slide upwards the longer you are running? Or are they somewhat erratic? Look OK one moment then high and all over the next?

 

Make sure the header with the pump lead is set to 100%/PWM or whatever supplies a constant 12v. Single fan should not be an issue nor the radiator size for this wattage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't use Furmark for anything and can't really compare. Either way, if you get an unexpected result, it's always good to run an alternate test to see how it compares. Run something CPU specific and moderate, like Intel XTU. It is a fairly easy stress test with a sine wave like loading pattern. Before you begin, click the wrench on the line graph and configure it to show your 4 cores (0-3).

 

I am thinking back to my old 930 and voltatges, but I don't see anything particularly out of the ordinary at 1.22v. That might be more than necessary for 3.2, but if that is what you have been using there is no need to change it until this is resolved.

 

When you load into windows, are your CPU temps normal, but then slowly slide upwards the longer you are running? Or are they somewhat erratic? Look OK one moment then high and all over the next?

 

Make sure the header with the pump lead is set to 100%/PWM or whatever supplies a constant 12v. Single fan should not be an issue nor the radiator size for this wattage.

 

 

Thanks for the reply! I've downloaded the Intel XTU, and I could do the stress test, and read the CPU load, but it can not read the temperature nor the "Max Core Frequency". But while doing the 5 minute stress test, it reached 82C in one of the cores.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do CPU temps seem higher than expected for normal operations (programs, browsing, anything but stress tests)? If you launch an application (non-game) like your web browser, do you see a large temp spike? Do the CPU temps seem abnormally jumpy?

 

Odds are the cold plate and CPU are not in perfect contact, but only if the answer to the above questions are yes. 82C is pretty high for any CPU on XTU. Most CPUs will be under 65 on that. My 5930K will stay under 50C at the stock 3.6GHz, so something does seem off. Gently press down on the pump block and see if temps drop. You may also want to take the block off and see how the TIM spread. If it is still clumpy in places, the block is not all the way down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do CPU temps seem higher than expected for normal operations (programs, browsing, anything but stress tests)? If you launch an application (non-game) like your web browser, do you see a large temp spike? Do the CPU temps seem abnormally jumpy?

 

Odds are the cold plate and CPU are not in perfect contact, but only if the answer to the above questions are yes. 82C is pretty high for any CPU on XTU. Most CPUs will be under 65 on that. My 5930K will stay under 50C at the stock 3.6GHz, so something does seem off. Gently press down on the pump block and see if temps drop. You may also want to take the block off and see how the TIM spread. If it is still clumpy in places, the block is not all the way down.

 

When idling, or browsing, it stays around 50C to 60C, but mostly 50C and 55C(when opening the popup window to upload this screenshot, still holding at 55C and 56C). Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try that as soon as I get some assistance, since I'm still recovering from surgery and I can't exert myself much yet.

 

I'll get back as soon as I have someone who can help me with heavy lifting.

temp2.thumb.png.29a0610f93079ccd7e096a5378a4c6a5.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, it stays relatively smooth and steady in 50's at idle, I think we are looking at a pump or flow problem. 50-80C and really jumpy might be a contact issue, but a constant (more or less) 50-60 at idle most likely means cooler issues.

 

The AUXFAN value in HWmonitor likely corresponds to the pump RPM for the H60 (you are connected AUXFAN on the board). That ~4300 speed is what's expected, so I don't think it is undervolted or a power failure. That leaves a physical flow restriction of some type as the problem. This is not overly common on the H60 and certainly not brand new, but perhaps this exact one had been sitting in inventory for a long time.

 

If you are still in your return period with the vendor, returning it to them as defective is likely the fastest resolution. If not or if they are unfriendly, contact Corsair directly through the Ticket Support system in the link at the top of the page. You will need a copy of the receipt to establish ownership and warranty start date (purchase date).

 

In the meantime, you can probably get away with browsing and light desktop work, but NO stress testing and gaming or any other sustained load is going to be too hot. Another classic sign to look for is the slow and steady rise of CPU temperature. If you boot up in the morning and it is steady at 40C, it may slowly drift toward 50 and then possibly 60C. The longer you are up and running, the warmer it gets. Another classic sign is if you run the stress test the baseline CPU temperature will be higher after the test and take seemingly forever to cool back down. So, it was at 50C, you run the stress test for 60 seconds and then it is at 60C and won't go back to 50C. If these symptoms do not match what you see, let me know so we can take a hard look at something else. All of the above require replacement. A simple offset backplate would not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

since doing quick tests doesn't require physical exertion. I did another one with the speedfan graph.

 

Here's the result using Intel XTU as CPU stress test.

 

EDIT: You are right, they were also the only 3 and 4 pin slots I had free on my motherboard that were close enough for the power cable

temp3.thumb.png.ff3220e8a0771e483627baf88b971fbd.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I see the general temp rising relatively quickly after the initial jump - maybe 1C every few seconds. That does suggest a cooler limitation or mild flow issue. The after effect is not as clear. The general 100% load temp goes up 8C or so in that minute. That is the coolant temperature going up 8C inside the cooler. When you stop, the baseline CPU temp should be +8C as well, fort example 40C before and 48C after. However, it doesn't look like that much in the graph. Maybe my perspective is off. It should also take the cooler a good 10-20 minutes to come back down, where as a working cooler would dissipate the 8C within 2-4 minutes and likely would not have a *C rise in the first place.

 

This may be a mild restriction, but the other variable is fan speed. I don't want to make assumptions from the HWMon data. The first one made sense, but your second screen shot show a 17000 rpm speed. Not sure what that is. Is CPU fan the radiator fan? How fast do you have it going?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I see the general temp rising relatively quickly after the initial jump - maybe 1C every few seconds. That does suggest a cooler limitation or mild flow issue. The after effect is not as clear. The general 100% load temp goes up 8C or so in that minute. That is the coolant temperature going up 8C inside the cooler. When you stop, the baseline CPU temp should be +8C as well, fort example 40C before and 48C after. However, it doesn't look like that much in the graph. Maybe my perspective is off. It should also take the cooler a good 10-20 minutes to come back down, where as a working cooler would dissipate the 8C within 2-4 minutes and likely would not have a *C rise in the first place.

 

This may be a mild restriction, but the other variable is fan speed. I don't want to make assumptions from the HWMon data. The first one made sense, but your second screen shot show a 17000 rpm speed. Not sure what that is. Is CPU fan the radiator fan? How fast do you have it going?

 

 

CPUFANIN0 is the radiator fan, whilst the AUXFAN is the pump.

 

Why it reached 17000rpm I have no idea!

 

When I first booted the PC with the new watercooler on, I noticed that it took a while to start. I was in the bios, and it read 0RPM for quite some time.

 

Thanks for all the help so far.

I'll do a further tests later, but I'm afraid of having to take it out since I used the already pre-applied thermal paste that came with the H60 pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no need to take the H60 or the cold plate off right now, except of course to replace it. That tight little wavy pattern in XTU indicates you put on right and made good contact. If you had not, those little waves would have been jagged, tall, and somewhat erratic. That combined with the immediate slow escalation in load temps suggests the problem is with the cooler itself. 2000 rpm is plenty of fan speed. Your results should have been OK with a lot less.

 

The odd pump speed readings are curious and may be related to the problem. On newer variable speed pumps with their own software control systems, it is not uncommon to see wacky readings. However, the H60 is a simple design and should read more or less the same all the time in the 4000-4400 range. The zero and 17000 readings are unusual and it may be a stuttering or erratic pump is partially responsible. Either way, you do not need to distinguish between a partial blockage and a failing pump. The H60 is not working as it is supposed to and you should return in first chance you get. With new coolers that have coolant temp and CPU temp data, separating factors is a lot easier. It takes more steps to work it out on something like a H60 when there is no obvious cause.

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no need to take the H60 or the cold plate off right now, except of course to replace it. That tight little wavy pattern in XTU indicates you put on right and made good contact. If you had not, those little waves would have been jagged, tall, and somewhat erratic. That combined with the immediate slow escalation in load temps suggests the problem is with the cooler itself. 2000 rpm is plenty of fan speed. Your results should have been OK with a lot less.

 

The odd pump speed readings are curious and may be related to the problem. On newer variable speed pumps with their own software control systems, it is not uncommon to see wacky readings. However, the H60 is a simple design and should read more or less the same all the time in the 4000-4400 range. The zero and 17000 readings are unusual and it may be a stuttering or erratic pump is partially responsible. Either way, you do not need to distinguish between a partial blockage and a failing pump. The H60 is not working as it is supposed to and you should return in first chance you get. With new coolers that have coolant temp and CPU temp data, separating factors is a lot easier. It takes more steps to work it out on something like a H60 when there is no obvious cause.

 

Thank you so very much for the help!

I'll do one last test tonight, because it is when I can get help, and if it is the same thing(which I will post the results here) I'll contact the store. But considering how difficult they are, I have a feeling I may have to contact Corsair later.

Bought it new, factory sealed, arrived on monday by mail, so, it should still be within the return period.

 

Once again, thank you so much!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick Update:

It seems you are, indeed right, no change at all, even by pressing the pump with my fingers.

 

Contacted the store and they have, miraculously, accepted to exchange the product for another H60. Hell froze over! hahaha Lets hope it is not one of those that stayed on their stock for too long.

 

Once again, thank you for the help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...