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4790k h100i v2 100c


pizzo93
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Whether the Link service/program is running does not prevent the cooler from functioning. That is an additional problem, but you need to look at the core basics first.

 

The lead coming from the H100i v2 need to be connected to a constant 12v power supply. None of your specifications are listed, but on most motherboards this can be accomplished by setting the appropriate BIOS fan header to 100% or "disabled".

 

You haven't provided any information related to the problem. The first step is to try and separate a pump or cooler function issue from all the other things. Without Link it is not quite so cut and dry, but there are some obvious things to look at.

 

Do you have lights on the pump? Can you feel vibrations when you put a finger on the pump cap?

 

When you have a cooler issue (failed pump, blockage, etc), you can watch the CPU temps climb in the BIOS. It climbs at an appreciable rate, but something you can see with your eyes (45-50-55-60-65... 100). On the other hand, when the bracket is off and the cold plate and CPU are not in full contact, your CPU temps may be instantly 100C (depending on how much contact is there) or are very jagged, erratic, or spiky in nature. There is no smooth and steady climb. Just hot and all over the place. You don't need to be on the desktop to see this. The CPU temp in the BIOS is sufficient.

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Whether the Link service/program is running does not prevent the cooler from functioning. That is an additional problem, but you need to look at the core basics first.

 

The lead coming from the H100i v2 need to be connected to a constant 12v power supply. None of your specifications are listed, but on most motherboards this can be accomplished by setting the appropriate BIOS fan header to 100% or "disabled".

 

You haven't provided any information related to the problem. The first step is to try and separate a pump or cooler function issue from all the other things. Without Link it is not quite so cut and dry, but there are some obvious things to look at.

 

Do you have lights on the pump? Can you feel vibrations when you put a finger on the pump cap? yeah it does work, but i cant find it anywhere on the system

 

When you have a cooler issue (failed pump, blockage, etc), you can watch the CPU temps climb in the BIOS. It climbs at an appreciable rate, but something you can see with your eyes (45-50-55-60-65... 100). On the other hand, when the bracket is off and the cold plate and CPU are not in full contact, your CPU temps may be instantly 100C (depending on how much contact is there) or are very jagged, erratic, or spiky in nature. There is no smooth and steady climb. Just hot and all over the place. You don't need to be on the desktop to see this. The CPU temp in the BIOS is sufficient.

it only reaches 100c under load so i assume it is the first case, idle 10% load is 40

,thanks for replying

this is a link to the same pc that i have http://www.microcenter.com/product/453039/x503_desktop_computer

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No, if it will sit at idle near 40C but hits 100C on load it is more likely a contact issue between the cpu and cold plate. A failing pump or blocked flow would start off at 40c, but climb to 90-100 while still at the desktop. If you take the pump off, you may be able to see if the TIM spread smoothly or is still in the original form.

 

It is also possible to create these temps using certain stress test applications and the auto voltage settings in your BIOS. You need to specify what program you used, frequency and voltage, and if you are having temperature problems with normal use or just the stress test.

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No, if it will sit at idle near 40C but hits 100C on load it is more likely a contact issue between the cpu and cold plate. A failing pump or blocked flow would start off at 40c, but climb to 90-100 while still at the desktop. If you take the pump off, you may be able to see if the TIM spread smoothly or is still in the original form.

 

It is also possible to create these temps using certain stress test applications and the auto voltage settings in your BIOS. You need to specify what program you used, frequency and voltage, and if you are having temperature problems with normal use or just the stress test.

Update: i changed the fan speed for the cpu to full speed in the BIOS,

and disabled multi usb on the power options that resulted in lowering the heat to 83 under load ( playing xcom2 at 4k)

http://i64.tinypic.com/33cpw10.png[/img]"]http://i64.tinypic.com/33cpw10.png

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OK, so it's a Haswell 4790K in what appears to be standard AUTO settings. I don't see anything particularly out of order in the screen shot. 1.29v is far more than what you need to run 4.4GHz, but that is a fairly typical auto voltage value and I am not sure you can hit 100C based on that alone.

 

So, the question is when did you see this 100C? Was it running a synthetic stress test? Or was it while playing a game? If it's during a game, there has to be some sort of contact issue. If it was running Prime 95 on default settings, then it is not so clear and could be a combination of poor set-up and the test.

 

Did you assemble this or did MicroCenter put it together for you?

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OK, so it's a Haswell 4790K in what appears to be standard AUTO settings. I don't see anything particularly out of order in the screen shot. 1.29v is far more than what you need to run 4.4GHz, but that is a fairly typical auto voltage value and I am not sure you can hit 100C based on that alone.

 

So, the question is when did you see this 100C?i used to see it all the time whenever i play demanding games , i dont do stress tests Was it running a synthetic stress test? Or was it while playing a game? If it's during a game, there has to be some sort of contact issue. If it was running Prime 95 on default settings, then it is not so clear and could be a combination of poor set-up and the test.

 

Did you assemble this or did MicroCenter put it together for you?

 

MicroCenter did 2 years ago almost,

i thinks it is a contact problem based on the analysis you thankfully provided , so i ordered new thermal compound , nonetheless it still does not justify why i cant find it anywhere in the system the h100i that is.

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No, the device recognition is a separate issue and often a complicated one to sort out. There is no reason to waste a second on it if the cooler has failed and sometimes a blown internal circuit is the cause of the 'missing device'. No evidence of that yet.

 

Unfortunately, that part of the problem is not my area of expertise and we need someone else to help with USB issues. Presumably, the H100i v2 was previously recognized. When did it stop showing up? Was this in conjunction with the sudden increase in temperatures?

 

Standard procedures are to change the internal USB connection, check the device manager in Windows for errors, and use a mini to USB A cable to plug it into a rear USB port, if you are still having trouble. However, the failure of the Corsair Link service is not normally associated with any of those. That seems more likely to be a software error or conflict. I would uninstall and completely wipe the current version. Perhaps someone who is better with the software side of things can make sense out of the error log in the original post.

 

You may also want to contact Corsair Tech Support through the link at the top of the page. No reason not to work both ends of the help spectrum.

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The error message that you posted is from the Corsair Link Service - are you trying to run this as a standard application/from the command line? You shouldn't do this; it's a service and is intended to be started and stopped from the Corsair Link application (which is separate). You can also start and stop the service from the services management console.
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  • 1 month later...
Are you running with stock/auto settings? Have you tried dialing the voltage down? You should be able to dial it down to 1.2 volts or so. What are your coolant temperatures while this is going on? And what are you doing when you get these kinds of temperatures?
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it maxes at 43.4c

 

the high temps gets when i play games such as shadow of war

 

Where did start? About 35C? When you stop, does the temp slowly start dropping or stay put? It should drop at about 1C per minute.

 

Your coolant temp is a little higher than expected but this also hinges greatly on your room temperature and case temp as well when under a high GPU load. What kind of room temp do you have now?

 

These may help with some general understanding but a +60C cpu to coolant delta normally means contact issue or extreme voltage. If you had a contact problem, it would be difficult to get the coolant much beyond room temp. Thus, I am wondering about your voltage settings and the program used to create the 100C temp.

 

I am still a little doubtful you can get to 100C at 1.29v without a contact issue or cooler failure. Contact seems out, so take a good look at how that coolant temp goes up and down. It should be slow up and relatively quick down. Quick up and very slow down is concerning.

Edited by c-attack
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Where did start? About 35C? When you stop, does the temp slowly start dropping or stay put? It should drop at about 1C per minute.

 

Your coolant temp is a little higher than expected but this also hinges greatly on your room temperature and case temp as well when under a high GPU load. What kind of room temp do you have now?

 

These may help with some general understanding but a +60C cpu to coolant delta normally means contact issue or extreme voltage. If you had a contact problem, it would be difficult to get the coolant much beyond room temp. Thus, I am wondering about your voltage settings and the program used to create the 100C temp.

 

I am still a little doubtful you can get to 100C at 1.29v without a contact issue or cooler failure. Contact seems out, so take a good look at how that coolant temp goes up and down. It should be slow up and relatively quick down. Quick up and very slow down is concerning.

i never saw the pump at 1c the lowest is 32.5

as for the cpu it goes up and down quickly, it does not increase in a cretin increment it jumps up when i am playing and down if i stopped , room is around 70F , even if the room was cold i still get a similar reading. i just changed the paste for my cpu 2 weeks ago, before i changed usb, u think i did something wrong there?

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Yes, typically the lowest possible coolant temperature (H100i v2 Temp) you can maintain is about 4-7C above your ambient temperature. You might get a few moments at 22-25C right at cold boot, but it should drift up to around 26-29C in a 70F room. You are a little bit over that, but case design, overclock and power settings, and a whole host of other individual aspects might make it run a little higher or lower than that. 32C is about what is expected. +10C coolant delta when gaming makes sense, if the GPU is getting a good workout. That will increase the case temperature and elevate the base coolant temperature as well.

 

The CPU will always jump up and down quickly, but I am more interested in how the coolant reacts (H100i v2 temp). You don't need to check mid-game. It will not drop when you ALT+TAB to the desktop. When you finish playing, the coolant temp should start to drop immediately. 1-2C every minute, but the last 2-3C often takes a bit longer as the system returns to the original state. We are trying to separate a cooler issue from a mounting or TIM issue. Those are solvable. A cooler will that is not moving fluid as it should is another matter. If there is a flow issue, the coolant will not drop when you quit gaming and likely goes up just when web browsing or other menial tasks. Very little load required.

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