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Air bubbles(probably) and pump speed H110i GTX


FuzzyWolf

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So I have a H110i GTX and I am pretty sure mine has air bubbles in it but not really sure how exactly to get rid of it. The reason I think there is air bubbles is that it makes this ticking sound like when HDD is being used(ONLY ON Performance mode).

 

1. I tried to lie pc sideways and that seems to do the trick but when I put it back up the noise comes back. Maybe I'm not doing it right? Tried tapping the pump too. Currently trying to lie is longer(about 1hour) and set it performance the whole time.

 

2. The second question, is it recommended to set the pump to performance mode the whole time?(or would that reduce its lifespan significantly?- I'm just hoping it last as for as least its warranty period) I would prefer if its on quiet when not doing much and performance when play games or intensive tasks but there is no option to automatically switch so I was thinking during summer months to just leave it at performance as fan noise is louder than pump noise anyways. I did prime95 v26.6 small fft and on performance it reduced cpu temps by about 5-8C and coolant temp as well which all leads to lower fan speed = less noise.

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I have an H110i GT on an overclocked 6600K and I have it set it on Quiet and it works perfectly, idle temps in the low to mid 20's and when gaming low to mid 50's.

 

Yeah, same here i5-6600k @4.7ghz @1.34vcore with an ambient temp of around 15C when idle around 21-23C and gaming around 50C (its winter here by the way) on "quiet" pump. I asked about performance for the pump is because when I summer, ambient temps is around 35-40C which means I could get better performance when its on performance. (in case you're wondering, I do use airconditioner but not always as electricity are expensive in Australia, and in particular South Australia where I live last week it was increased by 10c more per-kilowatt). So would in theory faster pump would mean I would require less fan speed which means less noise?

 

I tested this earlier, because mine is the Asetek model, via corsair link, fan speed is based on coolant temps so when I set my pump to performance, coolant get cooled faster which leads to cpu getting cooled faster as well plus fan speed goes down(and stays down about 900rpm vs 1300rpm, this was tested on a cool day though about 17C ambient not sure how effective when its hot). But it seems that AIO weakest point seems to be the pump and you can find many people post on this and other forums that their pump died, and I was wondering if I keep my h110i gtx pump on performance mode constantly, will it cause it to die prematurely(as in before warranty ends) or increase its chances.

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Flow rate versus pump reliability are two different things. Most of these people reporting pump failures on this model have had the unit for a relatively short duration, often less than 1 year. That would suggest wearing out the pump that has a target lifespan of 4-5+ years is not the real issue. Simple logic suggests a pump that has turned 200,000,000 times would be more likely to wear out than a unit that has made only 1,000,000 "revolutions", but these things are generally measured in hours of use and there is no evidence to suggest people are wearing out their pumps by running it at the higher speed. You should use what you want.

 

All that said, I am a little surprised you would see much difference in coolant temp between the two speeds. Most people do not and your "Quiet" pump speed is faster than any prior generation double size cooler pump rate. The last generation topped out at 1500-1800, depending on model. I have a hard time finding coolant temperature differences between mu current 280mm with a large adjustable range and the prior H110. It is possible you were teetering on the edge of fan speed change point, making the difference seem more dramatic. You also shouldn't need much fan speed with a 280 and a 4 core, even when highly overclocked. I am pulling down 215w+ at full bore and I still don't need fan speeds over 1000 rpm on 280mm. Relax your fan curve to keep in under a 1000 rpm in your usual water temp range.

 

From a cooling perspective, the weak point in the chain is the CPU design and the ability to transfer heat through the cold plate. You will always be limited by voltage and core temperatures before you exhaust the cooling system's capacity to hold and expel heat. Obviously reliability is a problem, but for your daily settings you should set the pump the level you want. Keep in mind that a faster flow rate means each unit of water can make more trips to from the CPU pick up point to the radiator and back. However, the faster flow rate also means that unit of water spends less time in the radiator channel where is can release heat. So while you may make more trips, you might also release less heat each pass. It's not as simple as faster is better.

 

I am not sure how concerned you should be either way. 50C gaming temps are great at that voltage. Even if you add the +15C Summer bump, that would still keep around 65 with a healthy cushion between there and the throttle point. I am not sure you need to worry about the pump vs fan speed thing too much. Noise is noise and never fun. You can turn stuff down in Winter and it doesn't matter. That is the real value of a water cooled system. You are not completely dependent on fan speed to handle the CPU load.

 

 

The clicking-popping stuff is more annoying. If it does stop when tilted, that would suggest bubbles and not a larger problem. When you flipped it back up, was the power on or off? Next time, the try the reverse of what you did before. Yes, while on its side run the pump and performance. It probably doesn't matter, but higher cycle rate is theoretically better for this.

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The temp difference was only on prime95 v26.6, in games I dont find pump performance to affect temperature that much I was just thinking of summer maybe it would make a bigger difference.

 

And yeah, the clicking-popping sound is what annoyed me the most when trying out performance mode. I did it on performance for about 30minutes and then switch off the pc. After that, I flip it back to upright position and turn it on. I also tried doing it while its on but doesn't seem to help, maybe I just need to do it longer? or when flipping it up more slowly? Not really sure where the bubble is either but say I leave it as it, despite being annoying, having the bubbles there is not really a problem right?

 

 

Edit 1:

This is the temperature change when using Quiet vs Performance mode. It was a short test but proving that for me, it does make a significant enough difference for me to consider using performance mode. In addition to that, my fan speed goes up to 1500rpm and it's not very loud which is one of the reasons my fan curve do go this high because in high load situations my GPU fans are the loudest, plus this helps giving more fresh air into the case for GPU(R9 390X). I use the phanteks PH-F140MP fans on intake on my S340 case(push configuration).

 

So in the video, this was tested at about 14.2C ambient temperature. In the first 2 minutes, you can see that I reset the high/low of core temp app on the right while prime 95 v26.6 is running. You can also see that the coolant temperature is slowly rising up and the CPU cores goes around 60-67C while the coolant temp got up to 30.4C(still slowly rising) and fan went to about 1300rpm.

 

Around the 2minute mark, I set the pump to performance and you can see the temperature of the cpu cores dropped to 58-54C. After a further 2 minutes, the coolant temp have dropped to around 28.9C and the fan to about 1140rpm. This was what I was talking about.

 

Sorry that I have to describe it here, it seems that youtube have removed annotations.

 

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