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Corsair H60 CPU temps at 50°C to 105°C


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When running default startup apps, my CPU temp runs at about 50°C. Which sounds hot already for running the H60 cooler.

When running Battlefield 4 temps rise all the way up to 105°C, which is scorching hot, and has caused crashes on all 4 of my monitors.

My GPU temperature remains at 60-65°C, which is well within range, so it's not that.

 

Attached are some screen shots from CPUID HWMonitor.

I'm wondering if the power supply for the fan and water pump are working or not? Is there a work around to plug them into the power supply? I don't see any type of connectors that would fit into the 4 pins. Probably have to get an adapter I presume?

 

Any help is appreciated. FYI, I had just replaced my previous version, but I can't recall what that was, probably H50 or H55.

 

Also note the FAN PWM never goes above 0, which suggests to me that the pump nor the fan are receiving any power from the mother board connectors.

 

Hopefully I won't have to get a new MOBO, as I don't have the money for it at this time.

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CPUID-3.thumb.jpg.10905fe59d2af2eff4b83e7fa121d9ff.jpg

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Normally, you can use coolant temperature to help differentiate between a cooler issue and other things that cause high CPU temperatures. With the H60, that is not available, so you'll have to make some general observations.

 

When you first boot up or wake from sleep and the CPU temps idle at 50C, does they slowly creep up the longer you are running? Or are they very spiky, almost random in nature?

 

After running any type of program and seeing a rise in CPU temperature, is your idle temp even higher than the 50C after exiting the program?

 

Can you feel any vibrations in the pump block? Do you see a pump speed in the fans section of HW Monitor? Even if it is running, that does not mean there isn't a problem, but a zero pump speed would certainly be a strong indicator of the underlying issue.

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Well it generally stays between 50 and 60 °C until I start running apps, then it will start to warm up. No spikes until I run a game like Battlefield 1 or 4. Then it just scorches to 105 °C and will hold for about 1 or 2 games, then crashes. I'm unable to monitor the pump itself because of the location of my case being way under my desk. A real pain in the but to dig it out every time. The FANS PWM monitor is at 0% though and it was like that on the old H50 or H55 that I had, so I really think this is a motherboard issue. I'm going to try by-passing the mobo ports by buying a connector for the 4 pins to a molex or some other type of connector directly to the power supply. I remember when I first had the H50 or H55 my CPU cores used to be in the 20 °C - 30 °C all the time, no matter what.
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In this situation, we are trying to distinguish between root causes of the problem:

 

1) Pump failure or blockage of some type:The coolant and CPU temps should be not too far above room temp when you cold boot, then slowly but continuously rise the longer you are running the PC. With a small volume cooler like a H60, it wouldn't take too long to heat up to 50C. Maybe a minute. When you load a game or something else, the CPU temps would quickly rise, but it would be something you can see happening in a progressive way.

 

2) The pump/backplate have slipped and the block is not making good contact with the CPU: The CPU temps would be instantly high the millisecond voltage is applied. You will never see a progressive rise, but they will be instantly at 50-60C. When you start a game, it would be instantly 90-100C from the second you hit launch. Again, no progressive warming.

 

The difference here is what to do about. The first one might require a RMA. However, first double check your power lead on the H60. Most people keep in on CPU_FAN and that header should be set to 100% in your BIOS or fan control software. The pump needs 12v at all times. This can be done through the motherboard (preferable) or a 3 pin to molex adapter to a SATA or PSU connection.

 

The second would require remounting. Is the block still tight? Games these days are all rather spiky on CPU core temps, but if there is poor contact, you will see this at idle as well, just from routine background tasks.

 

 

Has this been an issue since you installed it? Or is this an unexpected change in operation?

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It does the 2nd. Starts at 50 °C and when game starts instantly rises to 90+ °C. No progressive warming.

The block is still tight. It only spikes on games. I've run photoshop CS3 and it doesn't go above 75 °C.

 

It has been an issue since I've installed it. It was the same issue with the old cooler I had installed.

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From what you are describing, it sounds like a contact/mounting issue with pump clock and CPU. Unfortunately, these things can be fiddly and it is difficult for me to tell you what to do without having the exact same hardware.

 

However, the zero pump speed in the BIOS is troubling. Most monitoring programs and motherboards have no difficultly reading the H60 and it typically reports a speed of around 4000. So much of the other analysis is subjective, but this is not. You said the fans read 0, but does that mean they are not actually spinning? If you have no fan speed and no pump power then there is a rather obvious problem to be solved.

 

You need to figure out if the monitoring program is reading 0, but the fan and pump are actually running or if there is no power at all. The fans are obvious. The H60 should have an identifiable hum if it is running.

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There is no contact issue with the pump clock or CPU. My MOBO and CPU are 5 years old as of today and haven't had any problems until now.

 

The fan is running, and I have tried running at max speed through the BIOS, but that doesn't appear to have done anything.

 

I also found out that I had a previous H60 as well. That one did have a sound, not necessarily a humming sound, more like that of a water heater clicking type sound.

 

Now there is no hum sound. Thus the reason I question if it is even getting power.

Case temps are very cool though comparatively and that is probably what is keeping my system running.

 

I've ordered a cable to connect the 3 and 4 pins to a molex connector from my PSU to ensure they are getting power. That part is going to take a week to get here, so I'll update my post when I get it.

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There is no contact issue with the pump clock or CPU. My MOBO and CPU are 5 years old as of today and haven't had any problems until now.

 

That is never a question of the CPU or board, but rather the backplate and balancing. However, the power to the pump issue is clearly the one to investigate. It is not necessary for it to be on CPU fan. Any header capable of delivering 12v will do, although something has to be on CPU fan to boot. You place the radiator fan or another there to solve that issue and try different headers. It also stands to reason that if the header will power the fan, it should also power the pump. No sound, vibration, or any other detectable sound is concerning. No pump is that quiet.

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As I already had a good back plate on it, I continued to use the same one, as removing the entire MOBO from the case isn't an option. The cooler is properly fitted on the CPU per the instructions and I didn't add any thermal paste per instructions. It is solidly on there, no balance issue. I did move the 3 pin CPU fan connector to a direct connection to the PSU. Switched the HAF 932 side case fan to the CPU fan on mobo. The pump connector is moved back to the CPU system mobo 4 pin connector. Overall after restarting, temps are down in the 40's °C now but still rise to 95+ °C once starting Battlefield 4. If playing for more than an hour, temps will soar up to 105 °C. I just noticed that the side case fan doesn't work now. So possibly a short on that MOBO 4 pin connector.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Well it looks like it was the MOBO 4 pin CPU fan port after all. After installing the connector that I ordered, I was able to bypass the CPU Fan port and connect directly to the PSU. Still was having some issues with the video card after this, but that turned out to be a loose power connection so far. Since checking that, I've had no crashes since, even though temps are higher than I'd like them. Still I don't think it had anything to do with the cooler, just the MOBO and CPU being old.
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