God Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 So i am using the Corsair Hydro Series H110i GTX 280mm AIO Liquid CPU Coolerl, i regularly clean it at least once a fortnight. My system is just a little over a week old and usually idle at 40degrees. When playing games it jumps to a little over 60 degrees, (strictly CPU only using HW Montior) however, sometimes once inawhile, when its in heavy usage, the CPU temp jumps to over 90 degrees? is this normal or should i be ajusting the fan speed on the liquid cooler? or doing something else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiflemanFirst Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 40C idle and 90C load on your CPU sounds really high, but we need to know your system specs to get a better idea. Is your CPU overclocked? What voltage? Also, what case are you using & how are your fans arranged? Please post your specs here and add them to your profile in the User CP. Without knowing anything else, I'd venture to say that you may have bad contact between the pump and CPU and need to remount the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 You need to take a look at your H110i GTX Temp (coolant temp) in Link. Most set-ups will have a coolant temp a few degrees over room temp when at idle. If you are seeing 40C or slow and continually climbing values, you likely have some type of flow problem. Also, you need to add your system specifics to this so we have some idea what is in the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Ok, sorry about that, i totally forget to post some specs I updated them in my profile I don't overclock my cpu, i have one fan at the front, one at the back and 2 at the top with the cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 OK, back to the coolant temperature. There are multiple possible causes for higher than expected CPU temps. Making sure the pump and cooler is working is the easy one to cross off. As mentioned above, take a look at your H110i GTX Temp in Link. It should be holding steady a few degrees above the room temp when at idle. What does it say? Is it steady or slowly climbing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 In Link, it is steady at 35~37 running at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 That's a little on the high side, unless it is 30C in your room. Probably not. What does Link show for a pump RPM? Can you confirm the case layout? I suspect the H110i GTX is in the roof of the case and (hopefully) exhausting air out of the top. Any type of dust filter or other case restriction that might prevent the radiator from expelling heat? Interesting it holds steady at idle. With a 95W TDP CPU, that may be all there is. Run a short load test. I would recommend Intel XTU for this. It is mild, so if you do have a cooler issue you won't redline 2 seconds into the test. You only need to run it for 5 minutes. If the temps get too high, stop. The exact duration is not important. Before you start, hit the wrench at the bottom at set the line graph to display each of your 4 cores individually, rather than just the 'CPU temp' average. Take note of the starting H110i GTX temp before you begin and watch it during the test. It should over the course of the 5 minutes slowly rise 3-4C. If it jumps rapidly or shoots up toward 50C, stop immediately and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 & yes, the cooler is at the roof of the case and exhausting air out of the top, if i put my palm over the top, i can feel the air gushing out. It could be the room temp, it is quite hot atm in Australia (Summer reaching 36~40 degrees) PUMP RPM is hovering at the numbers 1350s While running the CPU Stress test via Intel XTU it went as high as 1800RPM Over a 5minute stress test. While testing the graphs stop running, however Then i noticed i didn't turn on Start broadcast? or it turned off itself, so i redid the test It seem to jump from 60 to 90 back and forth while the CPU stress test was running, so i turned it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Well, if it is Aussie Summertime than the idle temps are within the realm of reason. Your standing coolant temp is going to be about the same as the case ambient temperature. That will always be a little above the room temp and certainly a few degrees more after gaming, load, etc. However, the pump speed is not what is expected for this model. It has some variability, but the minimum should be around 2000 rpm and the performance mode should take it up near 2900-3000 rpm. Is Link reporting that fan speed? Or did that reading come from somewhere else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 I am reading the temp and speeds off link lets make sure we are both on the same page this is current idle temp I am giving the RPM off the "1174RPM" in the picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 There is an entire section of Link missing below the GPU box. That is where the H110i GTX info should be, including coolant temp and pump RPM. Do you have the USB cable connected from cooler to motherboard? Are the radiator fans connected to the motherboard or the pump? I don't think the motherboard will be able to properly read the pump RPM on a H110iGTX or H115i. This is one of the idiosyncrasies of that model. Most pumps have a divider that turns their speed into a proper value. Typically, Corsair units have a divider of 2 and thus the actual pump speed in more like 2300 rpm. That is the expected "Quiet"/low mode setting. Also, I can see from the rest of your temps that your case ambient is around 33-34C at this moment and it would be natural for your CPU temps to hover a little bit over that level. it is starting to look like this in purely environmental and voltage based. When the weather changes, so will your temps. The ~60C gaming temps fit. However, the odd jump to 90C is still an issue. You should not be able to reach that level in gaming, even at your very hefty 1.40 Vcore. That is a good bit of voltage and possible too much for hot summer afternoons and perhaps that was a combination of factors. That leads me to another issue. The XTU graph shows you max out at 4.21 GHz when all 4 cores are at 100% load. 1.40 Vcore is far too much voltage for that. Is this a deliberate overclock or has the infamous Skylake adaptive AUTO voltage gone even one more step too far this time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 i have never tampered with the voltage settings nor overclocking settings, this is how it came to me, i personally have no experience in over clocking as i have absolutely zero experience in it. I know basic computer parts and piedcing them together but as for actual knowledge, its very limited. As far as i can tell, there is usb cables connecting the cooler to the motherboard, the radiater fans are connected to the pump. So is it needed/possible for me to tune down the voltage? (i have no idea how to do that either :) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snapper69 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Having the VCore at 1.4 certainly won't help, it should be able to run fine at 1.25 to 1.27, possibly lower. My 6600K is overclocked to 4.4 Ghz and it only uses 1.25V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Most likely the voltage is set to AUTO. Skylake gave a new meaning to adaptive voltage. When the program asks for more voltage, the CPU complies. This lead to some rather funny benchmarks at the stock settings when it was first released with Vcore hitting the upper 1.30's at temperatures to match. Even if you don't have any intention to overclock the processor ever, it is a good idea to go into the BIOS and set a defined value for Vcore. That should limit this over-extending behavior on most programs. Some synthetic benchamrks (like Prime95, OCCT, and others) will still create a higher than specified draw, but there is no reason to run those types of programs without a purpose. 1. Restart the PC. You will need to repeatedly hit the DELETE key to enter the BIOS. It has to be pressed during a very small window when the Asus logo is on the screen. If some of the Asus utilities were loaded, you may something called 'Asus Boot Setting' as an icon on your desktop. That is a 2 click step to take you straight there without the button mashing. 2. Most likely the BIOS has been set to load the 'E-Z BIOS' by default. It looks like the picture below. Press F7 to enter the Advanced BIOS. E-Z BIOS Advanced BIOS view http://www.guru3d.com/index.php?ct=articles&action=file&id=17642 3. Using the arrow keys, move right one column to the Tweaker header. Then down arrow until you reach the CPU voltage section below. http://www.guru3d.com/index.php?ct=articles&action=file&id=17644 Ignore the crazy values in these pictures. 4. Select the CPU/Cache Voltage Box. It most likely will display the word AUTO. If not, take note of what it does say. Regardless, hit enter and a drop down menu will appear (Manual/Offset/Adaptive). Select Adaptive. This will change the menu and create two sub-boxes below. a) CPU voltage offset - enter a value of zero b) Additional CPU core voltage - enter a a value of 1.25 This will set your PC to a theoretical maximum of 1.25 volts at the stock frequency. It will still overshoot that mark a little (1.275-1.29) when heavily loaded and that is OK. It will also allow the PC to drop the voltage to a minimal level when idle to reduce heat and power consumption. All you are doing is shifting the voltage table down and capping the maximum allowed value. 1.25v should be enough to run up to 4.4GHz, so this leaves you with plenty of room for individual CPU variance. 5. Last Step. Right arrow tab across to the EXIT menu. Scroll down and select Save Changes. The PC will reboot with the new parameters. Your idle temperatures will not change. That limitation is environmental temperatures and there isn't much you can do about that. It also is not important for the long term health of your system. This should address those wacky high temp spikes and your general load temps should be better as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I would like to figure out why the H110i GTX does not show up in the Link, but lets see how this goes first. This step is necessary no matter what cooler you put on the CPU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Ok, i got a little confused inside the BIOS It was set at AUTO and when i changed it to Adaptive Mine came up with 3 subboxes with slightly different names Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 EDIT: Whoops. You lost your "1" on the 1.25v for additional turbo mode CPU core voltage. Despite the confusing name, this is the base voltage and not an additive. The total voltage is shown just below. I forgot about the (+)(-) offset directional cue. Also, in some BIOS versions (including recent Asus), you can't set the offset to zero directly. What you you did is a common way to solve it and completely fine. The other is to set the offset to 'AUTO" and anytime you are above some predetermined voltage threshold, it is automatically zero. That would not work if you were trying a negative offset. So, how do temps look now? In your screen shot, it displays the old "default" Vcore of 1.31V. That gets stretched out another tenth when under heavy load. That should be reduced now and less variable for on demand voltages. If it is still spiky, you can set an Load Line Calibration (LLC) level to tame it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Oh, i have not changed it yet, as since i was not too sure if that was how to go about it. So for additional turbo mode CPU Core Voltage, i keep it at 0.250? as i did not see this option "b) Additional CPU core voltage - enter a a value of 1.25" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Oh, i have not changed it yet, as since i was not too sure if that was how to go about it. So for additional turbo mode CPU Core Voltage, i keep it at 0.250? as i did not see this option "b) Additional CPU core voltage - enter a a value of 1.25" Additional CPU core voltage = Additional Turbo Mode Core voltage. Set this to 1.25 and leave the offset as .001 or type in the letters a-u-t-o to set to auto. Don't ask why it is called Turbo mode. That ridiculous name causes endless confusion for people and should have been retired long ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 The temps looks a few degrees cooler now so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 The idle won't be any different, since the voltage steps down to the same level anyway. However, mid and high loads temps should be better, specifically the more concerning peak numbers. You can try another short XTU run and see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 The results for a 5minute test passed, and so far so good It peaked at 74 but averaged at 65 to 70 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 That is more or less what's expected and the graph is nice and smooth. Game temps should be lower as well, both peak and average. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
God Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 phew, i thought my pc was dying and i got something faulty, thanks so much for the help c-attack ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 The cooler appears to be functioning normally, however still unresolved is why the Corsair info is missing from Link. There should be another "red box" under the GTX 960 info. I suspect you are not able to change LED colors, set fan curves, and monitor the coolant temperature. If you are sure the USB connector from the pump is plugged into a USB 2.0 port on the board, go into the Windows Control Panel --> Hardware & Sound --> Devices & Printers, then select the Device Manager (shield icon). Look for any yellow triangles next to "unknown devices". This part of the trouble shooting is not my strength, but I am sure there are others than can help with this as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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