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is my H115i Dead?


Frozencoffin

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Hi,

 

 

I bought a H115i 4 months ago and recently the temperatures seemed abnormal for a normal use.

 

The room temperature is around 30 degrees Celsius and the core temperatures were around 50-60 degress when I'm doing usual stuff like browsing.

 

When I'm playing Overwatch, videos settings set to High, the CPU goes to 80 degrees or more.

 

I ran a Prime95 test using Real Temp and the temperature in core one and two were close to 100 degrees. The other cores were about 10 degrees less.

 

After researching about this issue, most of my findings pointed to remove the thermal paste, reapply it and reseat the waterblock.

 

This morning I did that very carefully, but when I powered on my PC the Corsair heatsink LED should be red by default turned to blue and kind of flickering some times in the first few seconds of booting up.

 

Corsair Link does not show the H115i and the fans stopped spinning. They sping for a few seconds when I turn on the PC. By the way, 2 Noctua Industrial PWM 3000 RPM is installed as a replacement of a broken SP140L stock fan.

 

I removed the heatsink, checked the cables, unplugged them, plugged back on. I put a dedicated sata power cable just for the H115i and nothing seems to work. Just dead, Blue LED light on the heatsking and that's it. What could've gone wrong? Is it repairable?

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So you have no power to the fans? And no LED? I have to think the pump might not be turning either. Even without Link's help, you could likely see this with any CPU temp monitor. The CPU temps would start off just above normal at cold boot, then slowly and steadily increase. When there is a contact problem the temps are very jumpy up and down as the voltage goes on and off. With a pump failure or blockage, the temps only get worse as the minutes go by, regardless of load.

 

Regardless I would start the tech help ticket as step 1 in the RMA.

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The only activity is a blue LED "Corsair" logo on the waterblock. The fan are stopped.

 

If I disconnect and reconnect the sata power cable, the fan spins up for about 2 seconds then turns off. The LED stays light on.

 

It's frustrating that such a brand new watercooler stops working out of a sudden. I have a H80i installed in another computer and it's working perfectly for over a year!

 

I don't live in the US to ask for a RMA. I bought in a computer store in Paraguay and the proof of purchase is pretty gone by now.

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Take the fans off the block and move them to the motherboard for now. If you can determine if the pump is still working, that would still constitute a working set-up. However, the non-recognition in Link and the sudden shut-off after receiving power leads me to believe a circuit has been damaged inside the unit. This would likely be difficult to repair, even if you are skilled.

 

You must put the NF-A14 industrial 3000 on two different motherboard headers. At 0.55A each, two is too much for the standard 1.0A board limit. No spitter for those fans.

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I guess that's it, the waterblock may have malfunctioned when I removed it from its place to perform a clean up, I presume it were already presenting failing symptoms since the temperatures were skyrocketing.

 

I've connected the fans to the fan controller inside my NZXT 440 and it's running at full speed despite the H115i is dead.

 

I ran Prime95 benchmarks and it is still hitting the 100C mark on the first core. Surprisingly the second core hits temperatures close to 100C very different scenario from the first test which this second core also hit 100C. When the benchmark stops, it gets a cool 36C. At 60% load I get close to 70C. The room temperature is around 30C.

 

Playing Overwatch yields the same temperature marks of 100C. My conclusion is that the H115i has died.

 

I'm buying a new H115i and follow your recommendation to plug the Noctua fans to the fan header of the motherboard.

 

One last question: does these fans run at a Corsair Link controller that are sold separately which is supposed to control fans, lighting and stuff?

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I don't know. If you stop the load at the temp drops 65C in a split second, that sounds more like a contact issue between pump and CPU. If you the CPU temps are back in the upper 30's in a 30C room within a few seconds, the pump probably is working. If were not, the coolant temp would have gone up substantially and you would idle in the 50's until the water cooled off --- something that might take an hour in a non-flowing system. Then again, if you only ran Prime for 30 seconds, the coolant would not have heated up very much.

 

Since we can't look at H115i Temp, the easier way to look at this is in the idle state. If the pump is not flowing, CPU temps will continue to go up just sitting on the desktop. It will be slow, but steady.

 

 

"One last question: does these fans run at a Corsair Link controller that are sold separately which is supposed to control fans, lighting and stuff?"

 

I didn't understand your question. Are you asking about the old Corsair commander? Or the new SP/HD RGB fans?

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I ran the Prime95 test under the RealTemp "Sensor Test". I run it until the entire process is over. It takes about 10 minutes.

 

When I use Prime95 alone, I run it for a few minutes, the temperature rises rapidly to 100C and when I stop it the temperature drops down to 36-40C rapidly.

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Corsair Commander, this:

 

http://www.corsair.com/~/media/corsair/product%20photos/link/commander-mini/large/corsairlink_commander_mini_01.png

 

If they designed this to control fans, they might've built it for hardcore stuff as well, I guess.

 

Yes, that is the Commander Mini. It might be able to handle some of the control duties, but if you don't have other Corsair products it can control, I don't know if it is worth it. I don't think the new gear going forward will be designed to work with it and I have never used one, so the utility of it is better judged by someone who the product. I know we have a few in the forum and perhaps they can add to this.

 

 

In regards to the cooling, if you are able to finish a 10 minute Prime run, I don't think the pump has stopped or it is blocked. In that scenario, your temps would start off normal for a few seconds and then crescendo into a system shutdown. I do think your fan controller in the unit has blown, but the temperature issue may be from the remount. The most common culprit is the backplate. If you don't get it just right, it can be maddening. This is also not conclusive. With multiple overlapping issues, it is hard to pinpoint the trouble. I am wondering about your pump speed, but without Link, I am not sure you can get an accurate reading.

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Well, I opened up my PC. Removed the waterblock and I could feel that the backplate as very off, loose. I managed to craft some rubber washers to fill the gap between the backplate and the motherboard. Now it's very steady firm. Removed all the thermal paste from the CPU and the waterblock, reaplied the paste by putting a pea size of it right in the center. Replaced the heatsink, but no luck. The temperature still hits 100C, my guess the waterpump is working but not at the desired speed to run the water to cool off the CPU fast enough. Funny is that it doesn't go a 1 degree above 100C, it's steady or a couple of degrees lower.

 

I'm buying a new H115i in a premium corsair reseller online, so I'm sure I'll have a guaranteed RMA in case of trouble.

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I have placed an order for a new H115i. Should be processed by Monday.

 

Regarding the fan specs:

 

NF-A14

Max Input Power: 6.6W

Max Input Current: 0.55A

Voltage: 12V

 

SP140L

Max Input Power: 8.4W (Voltage x Amperage)

Max Input Current: 0.7A

Voltage: 12V

 

[ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqWlCxGugUA&t=25s]Corsair A1425S12S-2 PWM | Hydro H115i[/ame]

 

The stock fan may draw 0.9A current each as the test showed.

 

[ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMvBQoU82_8]Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 3000 PWM[/ame]

 

The Noctua NF-A14 iPPC3000 may draw 0.84A current each.

 

So the power requirements for Noctua are much lower and showed better results than the stock Corsair SP140L fans. Something unknown caused the H115i to malfunction as far as I know :/

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The new unity has arrived. I removed the factory thermal paste and applied Noctua NT-H1 thermal compound to the heatsink and installed it.

 

Now that I have a fresh new H115i I can read the watercooler status though Corsair Link. I made some tests with RealTemp and Prime95 for 10 minutes and I'm very disappointed. The temperatures reached are quite the same as the faulty H115i.

 

I can say that the faulty H115i has the fan controller and the usb controller not working. The pump might be in its default speed of 1900RPM.

 

On the other side, the new H115i runs the Noctua fans at 2400RPM and the pump at 1980RPM when under load. In Prime95 tests, CORE0 hits 100C in some ocasions, the average is 96C. The room temperature were a little higher 33C. Even if I turn the pump to the maximum speed of 3000RPM, it doesn't have any effect in heat dissipation. The radiator feels cool.

 

I reseated this heatsink like 5 times and I can't find what's going on. At 50% - 60% load, the CPU reaches 73C. I also used Intel Extreme Tuning Utility as a secondary test. It also reaches 100C, CPU Voltage is set to 1.265 and Turbo at its defaul 4.4GHz. It says it passed the test even showing it reached 100C mark in the graph.

 

This watercooler is meant to be the best of Corsair line, this is what they advertise, but it's disappointing having a 280mm radiator, 2 high performance fans and high quality thermal paste not able to handle a stock i7 4790K temperatures. I invested like 400 bucks in a cooling system that does not do half of what air coolers do.

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Where is all this heat coming from? It looks like you have internal case temps pushing 40C while gaming. That is getting up there. The coolant temp is 45C during Overwatch. I would be interested to know what the new cooler idles at after a cold boot and not after gaming (H115i Temp). Also, what is the approximate room temperature during all of this?

 

The core temp delta over coolant temp looks right for the load present, so I don't think it's a contact issue. But your case temps are high and the cooler pays the price. Perhaps you can explain how the 440 case is set up (fan locations and direction). Is this what your temps have been like since Day 1?

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First boot in the morning. Room temperature around 29C

http://i63.tinypic.com/2nbedee.png

 

http://i63.tinypic.com/2hcf593.png

 

I have 3 Corsair AF120 Performance Edition installed at the front of the chassi as intake, a SP140L in the back as exhaustion and on the top is the H115i with 2 Noctua NF-A14 IPPC 3000 PWM in PUSH/Exhaust.

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  • 3 months later...

Well, as you may noticed I bought another Corsair H115i.

 

Nearly 3 months have passed and the pump suddenly DIED! The second unit I bought!

 

Corsair RMA in Brazil violates Consumer federal law. It's so fun to see their responses to RMA directly to manufacturer rather then the retailer which the law says they're both responsible to have the problem resolved.

 

On the other hand, the official retailer demands exhaustive steps to RMA and the shipping charges is on the consumer, another law violation.

 

I have a bunch of Corsair products:

 

2 Headsets

DDR4 Memories

Memory Coolers

Aluminum Mouse pads

SPEC-01 Case

H80i

Two H115i

Fans

 

Saddly, when someone need their support, they turn their backs and make things complicated.

 

I've had enough of Corsair. I'm not buying a single piece that carries their trademark. Good bye!

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