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H110i GTX cooling issue


orcasauce

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I recently decided to finally install my replaced HG10 N980 with the idle H110i GTX in my case. The install went as well as could be expected and everything looks ok, the card idles around 40c. Unfortunately before I was able to test it under stress I noticed my rad fans were topping out. I assumed this to be a botched install and turned everything off. After poking around I discovered it wasn't the H110i GTX cooling the GPU, but the one that has been cooling my CPU for almost a year now.

 

This is a similar story to many others I've seen: CPU temps start pushing 70-80C within minutes. What I can tell you is during my GPU fan install I rotated/rocked my case quite a bit. I wasn't rough, but I wasn't gentled. Nothing concussive; like dropping the case or thudding it down, but I'd spin it around to get to the back plate and slide it onto it's side quickly before gently setting it down. When I turn the computer on the pump makes a rattling sound, like particles moving through the circuit, or perhaps static. This only occurs right after power on. I can tell you the water block is definitely receiving heat, and my gut tells me that's why the temps start around 60-70 and creep up towards 80. I'll kill the power when temps sustain 80C, after which the tubing immediately off the block is very warm, where the remainder of the tubing is not. This makes me feel like the fluid isn't correctly circulating.

 

Any thoughts, or is my pump dead and need to be replaced? I did, at one point pull off the cooler and reseat it with new, albeit questionable, thermal grease. Since the circuit is getting hot I don't feel the contact/transfer of heat is the issue, however. From start to finish, when installing the N980 and attaching the unused H110i to the GPU, the only thing that changed with the CPU H110i was I swapped the SATA power to a different rail as I didn't want each pump to share the same rail and I the GPU power wire doesn't have the same reach as the CPU's.

 

Additionally the fan header off the CPU water block is plugged into the same CPU_FAN header it's been plugged into for the past year; the controller is set to 100% (Default: SMART) and spins around 2000rpm.

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A slightly warm water temperature (H110i/GTX Temp) that continues to climb regardless of fan speed and then remains in a elevated state is the hallmark of a flow restriction. I suspect you would notice if the pump had lost power, was running well below speed, or making horrible noises of some other sort. That leaves a blockage as the likely culprit. You did not do this by tilting the case around, although that may have accelerated the collection of material or whatever is the source of the clog. Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do and you will need to RMA to unit. This will get worse, not better. As a temporary measure, you can take the unit off and shake it a little to try and dislodge the blockage. There is no guarantee it will work and of course there is no where for it to go in a closed loop system. However, it might buy you a few days of normal use.

 

Link to RMA web portal. You will need to create an account. It is different from the forum login. Also upload your purchase invoice.

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Thanks for the info. While Corsair is pretty fast with RMA, I'm going to opt for overnighting an H110i from Amazon. Unless Corsair somehow does pure-return RMAs, beyond simply replacing the unit, I think I'm out of luck. Thanks for the info about taking the unit out and giving it a shake, hopefully that breaths some life into it until I can get the new cooler installed.
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You can do an advanced RMA where they will ship out the new unit on credit hold until the old is received. However, no one can compete with Amazon, so if you need to stay up and running, a stand-in or something else with other value may be best. You location will have a strong effect on the speed of delivery from Corsair. Even in the US, if you are East Coast, that will be 5 business days. Might be better for local UK.
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I actually think they ship out of Hayward, California, which is more-or-less local for me; I'm more concerned about the turn-around in communications as the RMA is approved. When I had to RMA my first-edition [read: faulty] HG10 N980 it took over a week and several back-and-forth messages before anything moved.

 

As a follow up I can add some additional details. I took the entire unit out and gave it a good shake, particularly the rad. When I put it back in and turned it on there wasn't the same crackle right away, but after a second it sounded like a large block got sucked through. This kept the temps around 40C for a minute or two before there was another loud sucking/crackling sound, after which the temps slowly crept back up to 70C. At that point I shutdown the system assuming the experiment had failed.

 

Sadly I don't really have a stand-in to rotate to until the replacement arrives. I do, however, enjoy the luxury of a Macbook, and can spend a day or two working on side projects or catching up on Stormlight Archive.

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