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H115i 40°C Fan Problem


Virestalker

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Hell I use the Corsair H115i with i7 6700k not overclocked.

My Problem is that if the Radiator go up to 40°C the fans go up to 100% instead of 60%. I use the Quiet settings and saved them on the device. I tried to reinstall it and update it but still at 40°C my fans go wild.

Should the Radiator don't surpass the 45°C border or why is this build in ?

 

Greetings Patrick

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The 'H115i Temperature' is the water temperature inside the cooler. There is no specific value it should be and your room/case temperature will have a substantial bearing on your base water temperature. Someone in a 15C room will have a water temperature just above that, before the CPU load is applied. Someone is a 30C room will be starting 15C higher. The lower your water temperature, the greater the voltage you can supply to the CPU.

 

The default fan speeds are not an absolute value and instead are based on the average room temperature and the heat from a typical CPU. If you are in a warm climate or in Summer time you may run into the 40C=100% line more often. In Winter time you may never reach it. As long as your CPU core temperatures stay within acceptable levels to you, you don't need to worry about the water temperature and you most likely can reduce the fan speed.

 

I can't say much about why you are at 40C without knowing your room temperature. Other things like heavy GPUs (980 Ti types) can greatly increase your internal case temperature and the H115i temp as well. I assume the H115i is in the top of the Silent Base 800. Are the fans set as intake or exhaust? Is the top cover open or closed?

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First, thanks for the fast response

 

My room tepmerature is now 26°C on Idle the H115i starts with 28 °C and change after some applications like firefox and so on to 30-32 °C which is good. On load it goes up to 41°C. CPU temps on load there between 43-50°C

(most games get only around 25-40% load on my PC). Yesterday I let open the Sidepanel and It could stay 1 hour at 39.5°C.

 

Furthermore I got a Sapphire AMD HD 7870 which run around 50°C on Idle and 70-80 on load.

 

I tried both as intake and exhaust but I don't saw any difference. Yes the fans are on top and it is closed. Now I have the fan as intake.

 

I still waiting for fans. I will put one on the bottem as intake and one on the side panel as exhaust.

 

So is the only way to get rid of the 40°C line by make a custom profile in Corsair Link?

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I had Asus fan Xpert installed but it hasn't shown in programms nor in ai suite so I couldn't uninstall it so I have deleted all related files in programmx86 and programm. Now it doesn't show up in ai suite anymore and that is why I think that I uninstalled it.
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Be careful. Ai Suite has deep tentacles. Do not use system restore or test out new hardware configurations until you have removed all the drivers. Use the Asus utility found here.

 

So no other case fans yet? Or just adding two more? The load water temps seem a slightly high for what appears to be the stock 6700k settings, but if you were running something like Asus Real Bench that is combination CPU & GPU and pulls a lot of power from the wall, that might do it. Or was the load gaming? I don't see a malfunction in the cooler and there a few too many variables right now to draw a conclusion. Short term answer is yes: make a custom curve to lower the fan speed at 40C any kind of fan speed more than 1400-1500 is overkill.

 

The top on the 800 is an interesting design. It looks like a dome with passive venting and you should be able to leave it on. However, if you decide to run the H115i as top exhaust (which I ultimately would), you might consider mounting the fans above the radiator in pull. The passive air in the dome is likely to be warm and the fans would move the radiator a little further away from that zone, hopefully saving you a few degrees of water temperature.

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Yes, I want to add 2 more fans.

 

Load is Gaming for me :D I played like Battlefeild 4, World of Warcraft, Dark Souls 3

 

Thank you for the link :)

 

Furthermore I thought that the fans are not strong enough as pull/ exhaust or the GPU make the radiator too hot so that is why the fans are now as intake.

 

I draw with Paint the a picture to understand it better.

The golden is the radiator

The black are the fans.

The radiator so to long (312mm) for the 285 mm longest holes so I decided to put it on the bottom of the top.

The distance between Motherboard and top is too small to put radiator and fans at the bottom so the fans are on the top.

16-1080.1370149448.thumb.jpg.bbd9a7c30010b8c965785c18278e5d4d.jpg

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Above or below (push or pull) the radiator fans will move the same amount of air through the fins. The "pull" position, which for most people means above the radiator as exhaust, can be noisier because the fan blades are closer to the fins and you often get a secondary interaction between the blade and the case mesh. The nice thing about the dome is it eliminates the second level of disturbance. Mounting the fans on top of the frame, inside the dome, should not make a difference either way unless the top is right against the fan.

 

Most of the time when you have high water temps during normal GPU heavy gaming, it is the GPU that is creates the higher internal case temperature, which can affect the radiator as well. When the Silent Base first came out, I had a long discussion about the water temp and the top of the case with someone having the same problem. Ultimately, we concluded the 980 Ti and high resolution was the guilty party. I don't know the 7870 well, but I can't imagine it dumps anywhere near the same amount of heat as a Ti. Also, since running with the door off only dropped the temp by 1-2C, it seems unlikely the GPU is the responsible for this condition.

 

This somewhat leaves the top cover and how it interacts with radiator and fans as the main suspect. When you have a chance (and not right after gaming), run a very short CPU only stress test like AIDA64 or Intel XTU. Those are both very mild tests. I would like to compare the water temp after a 5-10 minute run versus what you see when gaming. That hopefully will allow us to eliminate the GPU as a main contributor.

 

In the meantime, you are not damaging the system and you have a lot of CPU headroom. The fans are just annoying at that level. If you lived in the Tropics with a nice 35C air temp in your grass hut, the fans would max out and stay that way the moment you powered on the computer. It doesn't mean the CPU is overheating.

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OK, about the same. That suggests to me the temperature is linked the radiator, fans, and its interaction with the case/dome.

 

If others have 6700K and can share comparative data, that would be great. However, I still feel you are a little warm. After you ran the test, did the H115i temp drop back down or more or less stay the same?

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The 40°C water temp (under load) is not terrible in itself, especially considering you are running a very hot AMD card (AMD cards are known to be power hogs).

 

If I understand correctly, it seems your complaint is about your fans. Well, the way you fix that is to open Corsair Link and ensure that your fans do not "ramp up" until the temps go over 40°C.

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No, but the gaming temps and CPU only stress test came out about the same for water temperature. The case temp is somewhere between 27-29C and it goes up 10C in 9 minutes? That is a little faster than I would expect for this CPU and what appears to be stock or near stock settings.

 

I am curious if the water temp drops quickly after the stress test. There should not be any latent case heat after that short duration. I ran a pair of 10 minute AIDA runs this morning while testing fans at the exact same room temp. My water temp drops like a rock the second I stop the test and it comes back the last 1-3C to full baseline within 60 seconds.

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@Hydroponic yes my problem was, that the fans go up to 100% if the H115i reaches 40°C but after the AI suite cleaner it works like it should

 

 

So tested today again with GPU stress. The H115i temp was 40.7 °C and it took 60 second to get to 39.8 °C don't know if this is slow or not.

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Normally, water temperature is slow to change both up and down. What is bothering me is your temp is quick to go up and slow to come down. This is usually a warning sign the flow speed is not quite what it should be, but it might also be possible if the exhaust heat from the radiator can't escape the general area. Is the top of the case overly warm to the touch after gaming or a stress test?

 

As to a potential flow problem, make sure whatever header you plugged the H115i cable into is set to "Full Speed" in the BIOS Q-Fan control. You probably had to put it on CPU_FAN since the radiator fans run from the pump.

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I have not. However, from a troubleshooting perspective it easier to eliminate any PWM signals sent from the board, rather than obtain a pin out for the H115i cable and wonder if there is any interaction.

 

I am now confused. The H115i get's all it's power from the SATA power connector rather than a fan header so the fan header PWM setup has no effect on this. Only the pin-3 tachometer signal is connected to the fan header.

 

Please can you explain why you think it does?

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yes the case get a bit warm because only 1 fan is under the slit.

 

Furthermore I changed in BIOS the Qfan from Auto to Full Speed.

 

Should I let the CPU as DC because it is only a 3Pin header to cpu fan?

 

The H115i fan speed increased from 890 to 1080.

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I am now confused. The H115i get's all it's power from the SATA power connector rather than a fan header so the fan header PWM setup has no effect on this. Only the pin-3 tachometer signal is connected to the fan header.

 

Please can you explain why you think it does?

 

Self-explanatory from the prior post. Do you have pin out diagram for the H115i cable? I don't. Corsair doesn't provide it. Harmless 30 second step as a means to remove it from the equation, as well as eliminate any BIOS fan speed warnings and the like that are not needed.

 

If you are still confused, you should start a new post with an appropriate title. If you have something to add that might help the original poster with the current issue, you can add that here.

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Self-explanatory from the prior post. Do you have pin out diagram for the H115i cable? I don't. Corsair doesn't provide it. Harmless 30 second step as a means to remove it from the equation, as well as eliminate any BIOS fan speed warnings and the like that are not needed.

 

If you are still confused, you should start a new post with an appropriate title. If you have something to add that might help the original poster with the current issue, you can add that here.

 

I was never confused in the fist place. The H115i provides up to 2 Amps for the fans so can't get it's power from a fan header.

 

I am confused as to why you are bothering to ask about the BIOS settings.

 

I have just figured it out, looking at http://www.corsair.com/~/media/corsair/download-files/manuals/cooling/h115i_qsg.pdf it says the H115i get's it's power from the fan header so I expect the manual is incorrect.

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yes the case get a bit warm because only 1 fan is under the slit.

 

Furthermore I changed in BIOS the Qfan from Auto to Full Speed.

 

Should I let the CPU as DC because it is only a 3Pin header to cpu fan?

 

The H115i fan speed increased from 890 to 1080.

 

It should not matter if you set it to DC or PWM. Once you set it to Full Speed, it provides 12v all the time and also stops low fan speed warning or unintended fan changes (if you re-install AI Suite). The pump is PWM controlled, but it receives it's power from the SATA cable, so it's not pulling any juice from there. This is more precautionary and is a way to make sure the BIOS is cooperative. All power and fan control for the pump and radiator fans is through the H115i and the Link software.

 

If the pictures of the dome on the SB800 are accurate, it shouldn't matter too much if the slits are just on one side. With the radiator fans as intake, it shouldn't matter much at all. It will pull air through the slit. As exhaust, you might get some heat build up in the dome before the pressure pushes it out the slit, but I am not sure that would explain the condition. I've lost track. Are you using the H115i as intake or exhaust right now?

 

Another way to approach this may be to temporarily pop the dome off the top. You can see if this has any effect. If not, we can move on and try other things.

 

After gaming, etc., how are your other internal hardware temps (drives, motherboard, PCH, etc)? If the case is getting warm because of an inability to exhaust the heat, then everything should be into the upper 30's, like the water temp. If they are back down in the upper 20's to low 30's at normal temperatures, then we are back to looking at the cooler.

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So today I got enough time to change the top fans from intake to exhaust.

Also I build a bottom fan as intake

 

dome off:

 

I used Aida 64 again

Room Temp. 25°C

H115i start temp 25.8°C after PC start (maybe to earlier for testing ?)

time: 8:50 H115i temp: 34.2

It needs 6 min to go down to 32.6°C

After 10 min it is 31.8°C

 

doom on the top:

 

start h115i temp 31.7

after 8:50 h115i temp. 39.6°C

It needs 6 min to go down to 37.1°C

 

on both motherboard max temp. 33

the top case get a little warm but not hot.

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You can get friendly results by running right after boot. It might be a more accurate comparison to run the top off test with the PC fully warmed up, which seems to be with a water temp in the 29-31C range. Interesting the motherboard temps are the same, although that was more of a concern with the H115i as intake.

 

We have the same room temp and my idle core and water temps are measurably cooler than yours. Not what I would expect from a highly overclocked 5930 vs a 6700k. Your condition reminds me of what happens when I unintentionally leave my Windows power state in High Performance Mode.

 

A plus 8C delta over standing water temp doesn't seem too bad, but the drop still feels a bit slow. What would really help is if someone else with a H115i is willing to run a short 8-10 minute test with starting/ending water temps to compare. The conditions don't have to be the same, but hopefully the delta between start and finish water temps will clarify things a little.

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Okay so I get again that the fans go to 100% but now at 41°C and I know why.

It goes at 40°C to 100% because in Quiet settings in Corsair Link the last setting point is on 40°C so I tested it with the custom profil with 41°C and it proofed that I am right.

So problem solved with custom profil at 50°C or further.

 

Only Question is now why the fan speed dont stay constant after the last setting point.

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