Jump to content
Corsair Community

optimal setup for my case?


IcEWoLF

Recommended Posts

This is the case that I am using: http://hexus.net/media/uploaded/2016/1/6928cdcb-4d3a-4fe8-9d49-89771bee0a0a.jpg

The Mastercase Maker 5.

I am not using the default Corsair fans for the radiators, I am using the thermaltake riing fans 120mm.

 

The radiator is set up top, but when I put my magnetic cover on top of the case (see picture) it makes a decent amount of noise, unfortunately the thermaltake fans are not PWM.

 

So I would ask for your suggestion on what I should do to makes things quieter.

 

I have 3 140mm fans in the front since I took out the optical drive. they are all blowing air in.

I have 1 fan in the back for exhaust.

I currently have the radiator fans pushing air out of the case and I think this might be the reason its making so much noise because its pulling air out of the case and that is has a top cover?

 

My temps idle around 25c and about 55c under load.

 

Should I consider PWM fans so I can control them through the Corsair Link app?

I think that would make things easy, if so any recommendations?

I am not sure when the new Corsair fans they showed at computex going to come out...maybe a Corsair rep can reply to this thread?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't see anything wrong with the airflow path and this how the majority of people would (and should) set it up.

 

How are you controlling the TT fans on the radiator now? If they are just running wild, getting some sort of control mechanism in place would do wonders. There is no reason to run your radiator fans at high levels until you have a high sustained load.

 

It is very unlikely the flowing air is causing the disturbance up top, but if so the change in pitch should be clear when you take it on/off. It is more likely to be motor noise or vibrations passing into the case. That shroud is designed to block fan noise, so it shouldn't make it worse unless it is vibrating. The TT fans are rifle bearing (no matter what marketing tag they use) and do tend to be gravelly in sound when inverted. I can't compare the 120mm model, but I have 3 or 4 pairs of the 140mm and it is consistent in that position. It is possible the vibrations from the fans bouncing around on its bearing are being transmitted into the chassis and the top shield. If so, there are a couple of ways to deal with it. One is to use fans with a different bearing type. The other is to try and further insulate the radiator from the chassis with neoprene or other sound dampening material.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The TT fans on the radiator are connected to the corsair H100i v2 splitter...unfortunately this does not allow me to control the speeds. I am using an adapter which lowers the fan voltages from 12v to 7v.

With that said, I am thinking about getting a new set of fans for the radiator only that are PWM which it would make it easier for me to control the speeds directly through the corsair link app. ATM the only way for me to control the fans is if I connect them directly to the mobo and control them through DC mode...but thats a pain.

As it stands now I noticed through the corsair link the fan speeds keep fluctuating between 1140 1200, sometimes it goes down all the way down to 1080.

 

Its not really vibrating, its just the noise of air is different, it feels like the fan might be slowing down...but its not as bad, but definitely noticeable when you are listening to it when I am not gaming.

 

But yeah, I am thinking its the shield not being heavy enough that I am hearing this, probably the air leaks out on the top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your motherboard is that much of pain to use for control, I would seek a PWM replacement for the TT fans. I thought they were rather nice when I first got them, but they wore out their welcome rather quickly. The low rumble they produce in the inverted position can easily cause some additional noise in a case that is less than fully fortified. You may not be able to see the vibrations, but the resonance is there. You have another reason to try something else anyway.

 

The speed fluctuation doesn't surprise me. Fan control is never perfect and you won't have a 1000 rpm flat line with zero variance. It is possible the voltage step down enhances the effect. If the variation in speed is acoustically noticeable from 1100-1200, then that is another reason to make a change in fans. A small fluctuation like that should go unnoticed on a good fan and in retrospect, this was also one of my issues with this model.

 

You can use rubber or neoprene gaskets to insulate the radiator and/or fans from the chassis. I use a larger version of this on my 540 and it prevents the metal on metal contact between the radiator and mounting flanges. It also gives me a little more leeway with screw length on my short top mount screws. It isn't necessary to stick it to the rad. You can sandwich in between with the contact paper in place. There are also rubber versions out there, usually as 120mm singles. You can take two and put them between radiator and case, as well as radiator/fan, should you want it. I also have some much thicker 7mm rubber gaskets than can be used to distance the fan from the radiator in pull mounting positions. Any of these may help reduce transmissions into the top hood.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't remember the hole spacing on the H100 v2. That gasket has the narrower 15mm spacing (instead of 20mm). On my H110, I needed to stretch it out a little to fit. If you are not comfortable with that, taking two 120mm rubber gaskets will also work, but the rubber frame will drape across the middle of the radiator. This should be mostly inconsequential for radiator performance.

 

First priority is the radiator to case frame point. You can also do the fan/radiator line, but I found that after doing the top, most of the problems were gone. These things are cheap, so you can pick up both at the same time -- one pair of 120mm gaskets and 1x240mm ring. If you don't like how one or the other fits, you can switch. Both can be used on either side of the radiator to insulate case or rad/fan.

 

I don't know where you are, but these things are available on Amazon as well as most specialty stores. I linked the first hit, so there may be a more convenient place for you to get it. Brand name is irrelevant. It's just a piece of rubber and most are manufactured by the same entity and then re-branded for retail sale.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, I went through that site and they were charging like $11 for shipping, I am in the US.

So I found them on Amazon for $6.99 and it includes shipping since I have Amazon Prime.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NODDMWI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3GO5VFCNOM5I7

 

I think ill try out the 240mm first, if that doesn't work I can buy the 120mm ones. But with the H100i v2 it should be a direct fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is where mine came from as well. My advice would be to leave the contact paper at first. Once you take it off and stick to the radiator, it will be devilish to remove if needed. The compression and generally high local temperature will make the adhesive quite sticky.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, but mount/remount it enough times and the paper will come off.

 

Just wanted to post and say thank you, I got the gasket today and I attached directly to the radiator because when the sticker on it just didn't stay well.

No more vibration noises!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...