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H80i GT High Coolant Temperature


Akisj

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The default curves will bring the fans to maximum speed when the water is approximately 40C. There is nothing magical about that specific temperature, but they had to pick something. This can be changed with a custom curve, but first...

 

Do you have the H80i GT in the rear exhaust slot?

 

What is is normal idle water temperature (not after load)?

 

How does this compare to running a CPU only test like Intel XTU, AIDA64, OCCT, etc?

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The default curves will bring the fans to maximum speed when the water is approximately 40C. There is nothing magical about that specific temperature, but they had to pick something. This can be changed with a custom curve, but first...

 

Do you have the H80i GT in the rear exhaust slot?

 

What is is normal idle water temperature (not after load)?

 

How does this compare to running a CPU only test like Intel XTU, AIDA64, OCCT, etc?

 

Its rear exhaust yes!

 

heres a screenshot in idle

 

http://s33.postimg.org/4dur090ej/corsair2.jpg

 

Even with open case the coolant temp doesnt lower at all

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The H80i GT is enough to handle your CPU, but I am trying to figure out how much your case (specifically GPU) waste heat is affecting the water temperature. 970x2 isn't super hot like a Ti, but it does affect the temperature of the water right above it. When I ran a older H80i in the rear exhaust, my effective game temps in a CPU heavy game would be higher than a Prime95 run because of the added heat moving through the rear exhaust. So, we need to figure out if this a product of other case heat or if there is a problem with the cooler.

 

32C is not an unusual water temperature for Summer. Mine is 31C now in a 25C room in a very cool case. Your CPU power saving features will affect this as well. Fixed voltages without power saving will put more heat into the water (perhaps 2-4C).

 

5 Minutes of XTU and the water temp only went up 2C. This is good. If there were any sort of flow problem, you would have gone up 10-15C in water temp at the 100% CPU load. This suggests the cooler is working properly and the GPU waste heat is responsible for the heavier increase during gaming. This is manageable.

 

The water is your effective baseline CPU temperature. An increase of 2C water temp will add 2C to all your core temps. When your water temp goes from 32 to 40 under game loads, this will add 8C to your CPU temps. This is only a problem if your CPU temps are higher than you would like. The fans are only able to help remove heat from the water. They cannot affect the voltage induced heat on the CPU itself. Water temperature is slow to change, both up and down. Opening the door may let some heat out or allow the H80i fans to draw in cooler air, but it can also affect the airflow of your case at large. The TT Lvl 10 is a different sort of case, so I can't really predict its flow pattern with having one to tinker with.

 

When I ran the H80i as rear exhaust in limited case with a single front intake and the cooler as the only active exhaust, I found using a fixed radiator fan speed was a better solution while gaming. I would set it to a speed I could stand right before starting and leave it. In this type of system the H80i is also the prime exhaust move and the constant flow is better for case thermals. It also keeps the exhaust flowing early before the water starts to heat up, thus keeping the water temp down a little longer and saving me a few degrees on the CPU. Once you get into the 40's, it is hard to cool it down until you eliminate all load. If your CPU temps are safe, the real issue is managing the fans so they aren't so irritating or alarming.

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Ok my bad didnt mention i removed one of the 970 before a month maybe more due to a bad fan issue.Waiting for replacement.The case got 1x200mm fan in front 1x200 on side and 1x200 upper exhaust plus 1x120mm at the bottom of the case plus the 2x120mm from the H80i even with all case fans at max speed the H80i temp will keep going up and sound like a helicopter is gonna take off right next to you.Its really annoying and impossible to play any games unless you turn on music volume to max.So either im gonna need bigger speakers or ditch the H80i for a better cooling solution.

Checked BIOS settings everything is default no OC or manual voltage increase.I can always put a custom fan curve but what if coolant temp reaches more than 45+ should i worry for leakage?I have this cooler for less than a year with the same setup shouldnt have done this before?

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OK, I did not recognize this as new behavior, but a general question about operation. If this is a change, then we need to go back to the beginning. Boot up, open LINK and take a water temp. Leave it idle and take another one at 5 minutes and another at 10 min. If there was a flow problem, I would have expected the XTU test to bring a much larger change in water temperature. After the idle test, please run it again for 10 minutes with before and after water temps.

 

If the water temps go up drastically in these tests, then this suggests a flow issue. If they do not, then the problem has to environmental and that is something we can deal with. Also, don't forget how much difference room temperature makes as we get into Summer. Water temperature will always be room temperature as a base before you power on. Even in my AC controlled room, my summer temps are going to be 5-10C higher than the rest of the year and this does translate into higher system temps all the way around. My cool 23-24C idle turns into a 30C idle for a few months. Same voltage, +6C on the water temperature.

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I am open to second opinions, but it looks to me like the cooler is performing as it should. It does not continually heat up at idle. An 8C increase on 100% for 10 minutes is within the expected range. After the test, it cools down slowly and the fans react as well. If there was a flow problem, the XTU results would have been horrendous and you would not be able to cool it down after.

 

My best guess is this is the normal seasonal change in performance. There are several advantages to using water temperature as the fan control variable, however this is one of the negatives. Your CPU temps are affected by room temperature regardless of cooling method, but the the software highlights the differences down to a tenth of a degree. Most people prefer a different curve for Summer vs Winter to keep the fan noise down. There isn't a lot of advantage to running 2400 rpm vs 1800 -- perhaps 2 or 3C. That is a tradeoff most people are willing to make. Try a custom curve that limits the fan at your maximum acceptable level or the fixed speed mentioned before.

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Well the AC is on.Room temp right now is at 23C.The big hot days havent come yet its gonna get worst.Ima gonna let it like this put a fixed rpm mode for the fans and if it breaks its in warranty the store i bought it from can credit my account for something else my next move would definately be aerocooling at least with that you dont afraid if it leak.
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You won't break the cooler, but I can understand why the fans at maximum create alarm. We are conditioned to think that. The 40C water = max speed is not a magical point on the temperature spectrum. It is a rough average of where an overclocked CPU might start to get close to the point of concern based on a +30C delta over the water temp at 100% load. You rarely put all cores at 100% load. If your CPU temps are topping out at 65C, you still have 15C more of water temp or ambient temp left. You won't use all that. You can set the fans to a more comfortable level without giving up much in CPU temps.

 

Have a look the first post in this thread. Each enviroment is different, but it a good example of how little fan speed matters. The difference between extreme low and moderate fan speed does make a difference, but once you get past the middle range the limiting factor is no longer how much air you can push across the radiator.

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