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H110i GTX + Thermaltake Riing RWB 140mm (3 x Fans Pack)


ethan1981
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Hi Gurus,

 

I've recently bought H110i GTX and wanted to change the stock fans to Thermaltake Riing RWB 140mm (3xFan Pack). I'm kinda lost when comes to connecting them, here are the things that I'm stuck.

 

 

1. In order for the RWB fans to work, all 3 fans need to be connected to the smart controller, the controller will then enable me to switch the different mode (256 colour cycling, Play/Pulse and etc). On the opposite of the controller it has a 4-pin connector which i'm suppose to connect it back to the MB as per the instruction guide.

 

2. The wires that coming out from the H110i GTX are a SATA power lead, a CPU header and two dual 4-pin fan power lead.

 

Questions here:

 

1. Should I plug in the Thermaltake 4-pin connector (the wire from the smart connector) into one of the H110i 4-pin fan power lead? Will one 4-pin fan power lead able to accommodate 3x140mm RWB fans (3.12 W each) ? And then connect the wire from H110i to the CPU header?

 

OR

 

2. Connect the Thermaltake 4-pin connector (the wire from the smart connector) straight to the CPU header? With this configuration, will I still able to control the fan settings through the Corsair Link? From my understanding there's a mini-USB cable that I need to connect to the MB USB 2 header.

 

Hope I don't confuse y'all.

 

Any advise would be much appreciated.

 

Pardon my english as I'm not a native speaker.

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The light switch box does use some power, but a minuscule amount. In order for this thing to work for most people, they plug it straight into a board header which nearly always has a 1.0A limit. The H110i GTX supposedly has a 2.0A limit on the controller, but even if it's 1.0A per channel, that still puts you in the same position as using the board header. With the RGB fans at 0.78A + plus the controller, you should be under the limit.

 

EDIT: I now see the box does provide some sort of speed control signal to the fans, with two different ranges. I do not know how the GTX and LINK will react to that signal in combination with the original. There isn't enough information in the literature to tell me what influences the speed changes made by TT controller box. But based on the limited information and the complete lack of any other direction that would be necessary for a true fan controller, my suspicion is the box is nothing more than a gate for the PWM signal. This is actually a bit of a nuisance since I think you will have to pick one or the other. Based on my use of the fans, I think you will want the low mode for anything but a full blast stress test. Those fans are loud and gravelly above 1000 rpm.

 

1) It would appear to be safe to run it through the H110GTX pump block, but you are the first person I know to use this thing and I have been waiting for someone to try. Thanks for volunteering. Connecting the light box to the pump block is the only way to retain LINK control over the radiator fans, however this would also tie your third fan (rear slot?) into your water temperatures. With a 980Ti, that might not actually be so bad since it heats up the water anyway on a low CPU, moderate to high GPU load. Given the amount of heat that little guy puts out, you do need keep the exhaust moving.

 

2) The other option would be to plug into the CPU_FAN and control all three fans from AI Suite/Fan Xpert. This would remove LINK from the control set up, however leave it installed, set it not to run on start up, and then launch, change LED color and quit when needed. Again, with all three fans on the same lead the speed with be the same for all three. I am not sure which control method would be better. I think the water temp control in LINK may actually work better given the GPU. AI Suite will work on CPU temps (or some average of it) and this may not get the rear fan moving enough in some low CPU load games. The USB cables reports motherboard values to LINK, but will not enable control over other devices.

 

I have been curious about this fan package. I have several of the single color models, which are all 3 pin DC. When first launched, the product page gave some contradictory information as to whether these things were actually PWM or the classic 3/4 pin, which is really a molex connector and not PWM. I had a conversation with the manufacturer about it, and I did not like the uninformed response. Since then, the product page has been redesigned and they are now labeled as PWM. Let me know how this works out.

Edited by c-attack
Correction regarding fan control
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Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated, let me try it out soon and let ya know :P. I've also bought 3 x 120 Riing RWB fans and installed as the front intake. I wonder if the colour will change at the same speed given that is 2 different smart control box.
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That's a good question. When I saw the "speed" button on the controller, I was hoping it was for the LED cycle speed, like on most RGB controllers. I am also curious what the fan does if you don't use the control box. Does it cycle on it's own? Does it default to a single color?
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  • 5 months later...
Assuming this is also for a H110i/GT/GTX or H115i, you need to plug the end of the control box into the splitter end with 4 pins. That should allow Link control, although you will likely need to make a custom curve because of the unusual range on the Riing fans. Unfortunately the low/high setting crosses over right in the zone most frequently used. The low end doesn't quite have a top end and the high speed setting (800-1300) is just a little too loud for the desktop. It can be make to work, but of course all three fans will run the same speed. I am using it now on a H110 with motherboard control.
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  • 4 months later...

I have almost sthe same config that's been working for a few weeks now since i received my replacement H100i V2.

 

I use the Riing RGB 120mm and all are in RGB mode color cycle and high speed setting (800-1500 rpm). If I remember correctly, each fan has 0.21. I plugged all three fans (yes, I got the 3-fan pack, and yes, I plugged all three on purpose, on my risk). I read one post that H100i V2 fan controller has 1.0A limit with 0.80A recommended.

 

most of the time, fans are at max RPM because of folding...and it's still going strong.

 

The fans themselves have 5-pin (not the standard fan pins) thus I need the controller to plug it to the H100i v2 pump.

 

EDIT: for goodness' sake...this is another old thread...this is the reason I should not post in forums....lolz

Edited by gabby131
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The amperage is not a problem. The TT fans were designed to run as a 3 pack from a standard 1.0A header anyway. If it did, you would see complaints in multiple forums as it would blow most any board header as well. Also, the lighting is not overly bright and the maximum speed is comparatively low, so this is not the fan that overshoots its published current rating.
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