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H80i GT Pump Thermal Sensor static at 27°C, no matter what CPU Temp is at...


PaulK_UK

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Hello All

 

I have had a H80i GT Cooler since July 2015 on an Intel i7 4790K CPU and no matter what temperature my CPU is at the temperature of the pump is always 27.1°C to 27.8°C even though my CPU is at 65°C when at full load for a few hours.

 

Its doing its job fine due to when the CPU Load drops back to Idle the CPU Temperature instantly drops back to 30°C to 32°C, so it is working fine, just that the sensor in the pump doesn't return the correct temperature causing the curve controlling the fan speeds not to go faster to cool the CPU.

 

Just did a CPU Stress test using Intel's IntelProcessor Diagnostic Tool and it got to the following temperature, granted the test doesn't run long enough to raise the CPU temperature as 100% load for 4+ hours:

 

http://image.net-code.co.uk/user~/paul/CL_H80i_GT_001.png

 

And here it is when its idle:

 

http://image.net-code.co.uk/user~/paul/CL_H80i_GT_002.png

 

Is this normal or is there an issue in the thermal sensor in its pump?

 

Or am I way off here and the thermal sensor on the pump is just showing the temperature of the fluid in the cooler?

If this is the case then maybe its just an issue with the CL Software due to the default settings for controlling the fans when the temperature rises is doing squat at the moment due to the temperature of the pump/fluid etc is always low.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

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If your water temperature is not increasing while the CPU is under load, it means you have an efficient system. The radiator and fans are removing heat from the water nearly as fast as you can add it. This is a good thing. It means you are getting good cooling without unnecessary fan speed. You can blast the fans if you want, but you are likely only going to be able to reduce water temperature by 2-4C. That should take 2-4C off your average CPU temp under load, but perhaps the noise is not a good trade. In the data you provided, your water temp does change from 26.6 to 29.4. Usually the longer you run, the more heat the water will absorb, both from the CPU directly and from other sources of heat in the case. The fans may then increase speed and on balance, it may not be so noticeable as a temperature change.
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If your water temperature is not increasing while the CPU is under load, it means you have an efficient system. The radiator and fans are removing heat from the water nearly as fast as you can add it. This is a good thing. It means you are getting good cooling without unnecessary fan speed. You can blast the fans if you want, but you are likely only going to be able to reduce water temperature by 2-4C. That should take 2-4C off your average CPU temp under load, but perhaps the noise is not a good trade. In the data you provided, your water temp does change from 26.6 to 29.4. Usually the longer you run, the more heat the water will absorb, both from the CPU directly and from other sources of heat in the case. The fans may then increase speed and on balance, it may not be so noticeable as a temperature change.

 

Spot on! :biggrin:

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Thanks for all the replies.

 

Well I was aware what the MB Temps were, but where new to water cooling I wasn't too sure what exactly H80iGT Temp was actually referring to, I knew it was either the temperature of the copper plate on the cooler or the temperature of the coolant in the cooler, but now I know.

 

As for it working efficiently or not, well the coolant in the cooler is staying under 30°C so like said on here that the cooler is efficient by removing the heat from the cooler.

 

But the CPU Temps are still hitting the 65°C mark after a few hours under full load and in some cases my pre-rendering cut scenes can have taken several hours to do, I just thought that the cooler should of reduced it lower that 65°C, I guess that's not that bad considering I am running the CPU at 4.4GHz (i.e. with Turbo on) so you could say I am OC'ing the CPU.

 

I have read in a few places that anything under the 72°C is good when Over Clocking, so I will try Prime95 on it and see.

 

*** update ***

 

I just had Prim95 running for 8 mins, got paranoid when I saw 77°C and stopped it LOL

 

http://image.net-code.co.uk/user~/paul/test_with_prime95_running_8mins.png

 

And like before once stopped and idle the CPU cores drops back to around 30°C

 

http://image.net-code.co.uk/user~/paul/test_with_prime95_end.png

 

The coolers water temperature takes a while to get back to its 27°C mark.

 

So is this still ok due to the CPU is still getting hot, granted it cools it down fast when the CPU goes from full load to idle, I had assumed that it would keep it cooler than that.

 

Once again Thanks

 

Paul

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By the way, what is the actual difference this cooler and version 2 and why has this cooler become a legacy cooler after 10 Months where as other older ones like the Hydro Series™ H55 Quiet CPU Cooler (CW-9060010-WW) that dates back to end of 2012?

 

Was there an issue with the original version of the H80i GT (CW-9060017-WW) if so then we should of been told about it.

 

Its the same with the Hydro Series™ H110i GT 280mm Extreme Performance Liquid CPU (CW-9060019-WW) got replaced by the CW-9060026-WW

 

Why?

 

Or was it due to dropping all coolers with the GT in its name?

 

Sorry for all the questions, I was just wondering why you dropped the original H80i GT after 10 Months that's all.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

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The Version 2 of all the recent coolers is a small change to the plastic around the block. It has been slightly re-shaped to fit better on mini-ITX boards. There is no difference with the radiator, fans, copper plate or anything else of consequence. The older models were slimmer and didn't need a refit. The V2 products basically landed on the marketplace before anyone knew what they were, so if you bought your "older" version 1 at a discount, good for you.

 

You likely can improve your 4790K temps but reducing the generous Auto voltage. You can look here if you want to compare to another user with similar hardware. I would say trying to stay under 72C while running Prime is a very conservative target. Most people try to stay under 80C. Either way, there is a big difference between hitting 70C+ while under a 4 core 100% load, and hitting 70C under normal use. In all likelihood, you won't even come close while using standard software applications and games. So regardless of what happens under Prime, never breaking 65C (or whatever temp) under use is far more meaningful than a stress test you run once every 6 months. Also, you may want to use something other than Prime 95 to test Haswell. If you are very comfortable with it and are familair with how to program specific test runs for your use, great. However, for most people it's turns your box into a toaster when run on the standard settings. OCCT and AIDA64 (trial version) are free testers. Intel XTU as well.

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There is also a "Stress test" feature in the latest cpu-z. It caught some instability with my previous overclocking attempts. Proved helpful in the end, with lower temps than prime95 26.6.

http://i.imgur.com/jCxbGWN.jpg

@PaulK_UK

 

We are "overclocking" our CPU's 400-500mhz past stock, higher temps are to be expected. Anything under 74.04C(tcase)is good. Others say tcase+ +/-5C, so a good range to stay within is 65c-73c, not greater than 79c @ 100% load(god forbid!).

Looks like we're in pretty good shape :p. Idle temps below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B007JgCLgXQLU0YwTlZ1cW9Rcms/view?usp=sharing

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@DeathAngel74

Well I tried the - offset to get the 1.111v but it made no difference, I think my default voltage was 1.12V jumping to 1.136V

 

I did install XTU and got a score of 1002 marks not too sure if that is a good score or not.

 

But like you said we are over clocking by 400MHz (in my case that is) so yeah I was expecting to get higher temps.

 

I gather the H100iGTX is good then going by the idle temps your getting :P

I think I was going to get that one but ended up getting the H80i GT due to the reports it got.

 

I might try some different fans on the radiator and I might make a seal around the two fans to get better pressure through the radiator.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

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you can do push/pull in exhaust...2 fans inside and 2 fans outside with the h100i gtx. You'll need 8x 6-32, 1/14 inch screws to mount the fans to the radiator/case if you get an h100i gtx eventually.

Well I am on the borders of Hydro Series H100i v2 and Hydro Series H115i but I might hold off just in case they re-release the Hydro Series H115i as Hydro Series H115i v2 I have the Graphite Series 760T V2 Case, so I have the space for it.

 

Hmm, might have the space for it: Top: (x3) 120mm or (x2) 140mm.

Might have to be the H100i due to the following:

Compatible Corsair Liquid Coolers H55, H60, H75, H80i, H90, H100i, H105, H110

 

So if I did upgrade later on it might have to be the Hydro Series H100i v2.

 

Also I am not really a fan (pardon the pun :P) of sticking fans outside the case so I would have to install everything inside the case, but if its too much of a tight fit to get it all inside, then I guess I would have to come to terms with 2 fans outside, just have to add a grill over the external fans so our cats don't try to attack the fans LOL.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

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Well I am on the borders of Hydro Series H100i v2 and Hydro Series H115i but I might hold off just in case they re-release the Hydro Series H115i as Hydro Series H115i v2Paul

 

The H115 is the "version 2" of a H110i GTX. It got a new numerical designation in the process, most likely so I can stop quizzing people if they meant GT or GTX every time they write H110. Probably not the reason, but unless you have a mini-ITX motherboard, none of these V2 coolers offer you anything. Take the small savings while you can as retailers try to dump their V1 stock.

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The Version 2 of all the recent coolers is a small change to the plastic around the block. It has been slightly re-shaped to fit better on mini-ITX boards. There is no difference with the radiator, fans, copper plate or anything else of consequence.

 

What? I had the original H80i than RMAed it because it was having problems and I got an H80i v2 as the replacement and there's some big differences

 

Less noise is a big one, and also lets you adjust the rpm of the pump

 

Seriously, it's quiet, REAL quiet

 

Not that the original H80i was loud to begin with, but still.. less noise is always better

 

Also, the only thing that powers the H80i v2 is a fan header... no longer needs to be plugged into a SATA power connector

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What? I had the original H80i than RMAed it because it was having problems and I got an H80i v2 as the replacement and there's some big differences

 

Less noise is a big one, and also let's you adjust the rpm of the pump

 

Seriously, it's quiet, REAL quiet

 

Not that the original H80i was loud to begin with, but still.. less noise is always better

 

Also, the only thing that powers the H80i v2 is a fan header... no longer needs to be plugged into a SATA power connector

c-attack was referring to the old H80i GT and the new version of it the H80i v2, they are exactly the same apart from the mounting bracket.

 

Also the old H80i GT is powered by the CPU Fan header.

 

And as for noise, the H80i GT is also silent, even when in performance mode, and I can also change the speed of the pump on my old H80i GT Cooler.

 

Paul

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