UberSlackr Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 Is there a way to force the fan to power on and stay on? This thing gets extremely hot (to the touch) and is putting off a lot of heat, but the fan never powers on to dissipate even a little of the heat. When I bought it I saw it had the Link connection, so I thought I would be able to control the fan, but apparently that's not possible which seems a little ridiculous to me to just have the link connection to see the RPM of the fan sit at 0 the whole time... as I've ran different benchmark software testing the CPU and GPU, and never have a seen the RPM of the PSU change from 0. This Zero RPM seems like a load of crap, imo. I rather have the fan on running at a low RPM to provide a little cooling; instead of waiting for the thing to get so hot before it starts cooling. I don't have the money to spend on a different PSU; or I would just trash this one and get something else... 'cause I just spent the last of my budget on an Open Loop cooling system, as the Corsair H110i I originally bought is horrible at keeping an AMD FX9590 cool (and the Corsair Link software is a joke.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegan Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 Could be a problem with the thermal sensor that manages the fan speed. Ordinarily the fan is cranked up based on the values from the main heatsinks. You may need to RMA the PSU, considering the cooling is not working right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsair Employees jonnyguru Posted December 25, 2015 Corsair Employees Share Posted December 25, 2015 This thing gets extremely hot (to the touch) "to the touch" is not an accurate unit of measurement. This Zero RPM seems like a load of crap, imo. the Corsair Link software is a joke.) Nice attitude. I just spent the last of my budget on an Open Loop cooling system, as the Corsair H110i I originally bought is horrible at keeping an AMD FX9590 cool Then you probably had something wrong with the way it was mounted. I do custom loops because they look neat (have to do a lot of show PCs, mods, etc.), but the 110i cools the same CPUs just as well as most custom loops. Back to the PSU.... You have a 1000W PSU for a computer with a single graphics card. That's about three times the PSU you actually need. That PSU is NEVER going to get hot enough to kick the fan on. You're fine. That said, if the "hot to the touch" bothers you, flip the PSU so the fan grill is pointing up so any heat trapped within the PSU can rise away from the PCB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clubfoot Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 You can also test the fan by pressing the fan switch on the psu and if it spins it's OK! The zero rpm works as it should,...silent PC and it is WAY more psu than even I need. I have an H100i and it cools my i7 at 4.5G to 70 degrees at full load, so, you may want to remount the pump and not over tighten it. I run Link and it detects and controls the H100i and my RM1000i no issues what so ever. Of course I don't run it in the back round because the H100i and my video cars are smart enough to ramp up by themselves automagically:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UberSlackr Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 (edited) You can also test the fan by pressing the fan switch on the psu and if it spins it's OK! The zero rpm works as it should,...silent PC and it is WAY more psu than even I need. I have an H100i and it cools my i7 at 4.5G to 70 degrees at full load, so, you may want to remount the pump and not over tighten it. I run Link and it detects and controls the H100i and my RM1000i no issues what so ever. Of course I don't run it in the back round because the H100i and my video cars are smart enough to ramp up by themselves automagically:) There is no "fan switch" on the PSU; which imo is a design flaw... forcing people to stick paper clips in things to test the fan is ridiculous. If you don't test it, one day when it fails (more than likely when its out of warranty) you'll never know if the fan ever worked, and could have saved having to replace it if you knew the fan didn't work in time to RMA it. My CPU is running at 5.0 Ghz and idle the temp was sitting at 54 with the H110; under load its getting as high as 90.. with the open loop it idles at 30, and under load never goes over 60. you are able to turn the fan on and off on the PSU from the Link software? I see no option for that, when I click to config my PSU in the Link software it just says "unknown" next to pretty much everything, it can't even populate information for its own products... Edited December 27, 2015 by UberSlackr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UberSlackr Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 "to the touch" is not an accurate unit of measurement. Nice attitude. Then you probably had something wrong with the way it was mounted. I do custom loops because they look neat (have to do a lot of show PCs, mods, etc.), but the 110i cools the same CPUs just as well as most custom loops. Back to the PSU.... You have a 1000W PSU for a computer with a single graphics card. That's about three times the PSU you actually need. That PSU is NEVER going to get hot enough to kick the fan on. You're fine. That said, if the "hot to the touch" bothers you, flip the PSU so the fan grill is pointing up so any heat trapped within the PSU can rise away from the PCB. I remounted it twice, before ditching it for an open loop. Now my CPU sits 20 degrees less bot idle and under load. Flipping the PSU over wouldn't do any good; as there is a customer fabricated metal cover sitting above it. It covers the PSU and hides the cabling coming out the back, as well as a 120mm fan mounted behind it. It may be 3 times the PSU needed; but it was on sale, and rather be safe than sorry (if I decided to add 2nd GPU.) Right now its powering FX 9590, 8 fans, 3 HDDs, 2 SSDs, Water pump, ASUS R9 390 D3OC, LED strips, and a Raspberry Pi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clubfoot Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 There is no "fan switch" on the PSU; which imo is a design flaw... forcing people to stick paper clips in things to test the fan is ridiculous. If you don't test it, one day when it fails (more than likely when its out of warranty) you'll never know if the fan ever worked, and could have saved having to replace it if you knew the fan didn't work in time to RMA it. My CPU is running at 5.0 Ghz and idle the temp was sitting at 54 with the H110; under load its getting as high as 90.. with the open loop it idles at 30, and under load never goes over 60. you are able to turn the fan on and off on the PSU from the Link software? I see no option for that, when I click to config my PSU in the Link software it just says "unknown" next to pretty much everything, it can't even populate information for its own products... The RMi has a fan button on the cable outlet side,.... sounds like the RM doesn't! You have to edit the USB section in the registry because on some Mb windows does not make the proper entries, one of mine is always corrupted after fresh install. There are several threads here describing what to do. I have link working on two different Asus boards, both with RMi psi. So it's not the software. Sounds like you had a faulty H100. Idle for mine is 30ish with 70s high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UberSlackr Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 The RMi has a fan button on the cable outlet side,.... sounds like the RM doesn't! You have to edit the USB section in the registry because on some Mb windows does not make the proper entries, one of mine is always corrupted after fresh install. There are several threads here describing what to do. I have link working on two different Asus boards, both with RMi psi. So it's not the software. Sounds like you had a faulty H100. Idle for mine is 30ish with 70s high. Yeah RM1000, no button. Any links to the post you are referring too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clubfoot Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 My registry always shows 00 on fresh install so I have to delete the key and recreate it from scratch. http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=822047 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsair Employees jonnyguru Posted December 28, 2015 Corsair Employees Share Posted December 28, 2015 Guys: RM does NOT have a fan test button. Period. There is no "fan switch" on the PSU; which imo is a design flaw... forcing people to stick paper clips in things to test the fan is ridiculous. Actually, the paper clip trick doesn't make the fan spin up either. The only way to get the fan to spin up is with load or higher temps. Is that a design flaw? Yes. Guess hind sight's 20/20. My CPU is running at 5.0 Ghz and idle the temp was sitting at 54 with the H110; under load its getting as high as 90.. with the open loop it idles at 30, and under load never goes over 60. Then you DEFINITELY had the H110 mounted incorrectly. Wrong hardware? Wrong orientation? It should have NEVER gotten that hot with that cooler. Check out any of the reviews or even the cooler sub-forum and you'll see that your temps were WAY out of the norm. you are able to turn the fan on and off on the PSU from the Link software? I see no option for that, when I click to config my PSU in the Link software it just says "unknown" next to pretty much everything, it can't even populate information for its own products... They're incorrect. The RM is NOT fully supported in Link and even what limited support it does have does not include the ability to turn on the fan. The RMi, HXi and AXi all let you. But not the RM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pedro_The_Swift Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 During these covid-19 times I am Folding@home with a msi R9 290 4gb and a R270 4gb running off a B360 a pro with a i3-8100, At a wall draw of 426watts,, this bloody fan still wont spin.. :) :) in fact it so warm/hot I'm gunna run a fan into its guts,, whats another .3A? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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