Jordan.P Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Does the air 540 only come in the normal shade of silver or is there away to get it more of a gun metal silver or would I have to do it myself? Also i'm thinking of putting three 120 mm air flow fans in the front with a 280 mm aio in the top then a 140 mm exhaust fan should that be negative air pressure or would that work good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 You would need to paint the case yourself. As for the fans, if you do decide to run run AF140's in push-pull at the top on the radiator (or anything in push-pull), it will have an effect on the remaining choices. The top 120 will be 75% blocked and you may need that space for the hose attachments at that end of the radiator. I would recommend 2x140 for the front if you go that direction. In fact, I would recommend 2x140 for the front anyway unless you run multiple GPU's where the lower 120mm will drive straight between the cards on most boards. The push-pull 88mm sandwich may also interfere with the rear 140mm. I can't be 100% sure a 140 will still fit. The new GT and GTX have larger end caps and I am afraid it is going to collide with the rear fan frame. It is possible to mount the 140 rear externally or the top set of radiator fans externally, but that is an awful lot of compromise for the aesthetics of the ring fans. There are some other choices, but hopefully Corsair will save your plan and finally release some SP140 PWM "ring" fans before someone else beats them too it. As for positive vs negative pressure, don't worry about it. It is one of the sillier concepts for home computer use. Whether you use 3x120 or 2x140 front, you are likely to be close to neutral balance with the rear 140 and radiator restricted 2x140 in the roof. The simple fact is no matter what you use for fans, you can always change the speed of one set or another to create the balance you want. You will never need to run any of the fans at their limit, and therefore will always have the ability to raise/lower rpm to your requirements. Besides, trying to "pressure force" your air out the back mesh is a poor alternative to an actual exhaust fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan.P Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 Thank you for the advice, I'll probably ditch the three front ones and just have two 140's as i'm only going to have one graphics card even though I'd like to have two graphic cards, so you'd recommend trying to get some sp fans instead of push pulling with af 140 fans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 I don't think anyone really needs push-pull on a 280mm AIO, unless you do decide to use a decidedly less than optimal fan. Right now I have my case decked out for the holidays in red-white-green Corsair. The two SP140 LED fans on the radiator aren't all that impressive from a specification standpoint, but they more than do the job. I need to cross the line into silly voltages before the fan choice becomes relevant. Unfortunately, the choices in 4 pin PWM 140mm radiator suitable fans are limited. Most of your aftermarket choices will be 3 pin DC and necessitate running the fans from the motherboard, rather than the pump block. That really isn't a problem from a cooling stand point, but it is something to be aware of ahead of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan.P Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Could I not use a molex fan splitter for the said fans I put on the Aio? I'd like to avoid led fans if possible because I think they introduce to much colour into the build but if that's my only option then that's what I will have to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 You certainly can use a direct molex connection or a fan controller. I didn't mention it since most people have a good number of motherboard headers these days and often some desktop software control. Both the H110iGT and GTX are designed to power the fans from its pump block controller, which is controlled by software (LINK) and reacts in accordance with water temperature. It is not required to use the software, but if you forgo it, then you need to power the fans from some other source if you want control. The unit should retain it's default settings in the absence of LINK and would certainly be functional, but you would have no way to adjust the speed and other factors can influence water temperature and possibly run the fans harder than you'll like. There is no requirement to use LED fans, Corsair fans, or PWM fans. Anything can be powered from another source. However, if you wish to run the fans from the pump block, you must use 4 pin PWM fans. There are very few 140mm radiator suitable, PWM fans. I only mentioned the SP140 LED's because people often criticize them for being "too weak". This is not the case in my set-up and I pull quite a few watts through the CPU socket. The 540 is a great case for keeping things cool and my water temps don't break 35C. Almost any fan will be able to remove heat from the water, but I think one pair of AF140's might be one step too far if you do any overclocking. *Also note, there are considerable differences between the retail SP140 LED fan and the SP140L fan that comes with the coolers. The only thing similar is the name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan.P Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Oh okay...I'll probably see my options or re-think it but definitely going with the air 540, it's just an awesome looking case in my opinion and the expandability looks like it is very large. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 This discussion below (apparently the name of the board is blocked or something so just copy the link and insert r-e-d-d-i-t between the ..) is amazing when you want to see what using your rad as an intake will do you your GPU, which is usually your hottest component in the case. As you can see, the difference between intaking and exhausting using with your rad is ~2C. Also remember that this guy's case is not high air flow like the Air 540, so him bringing in hot air will likely affect his components a bit more than our own cases. So don't worry about what intaking will do to your components too much. My suggestion would be to give it a shot and see what your temps are, then try it as a top exhaust and see what your temps are again before deciding where you want it exactly. https://www..com/r/buildapc/comments/2ej4yt/discussion_radiator_position_temperature_testing/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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