Bruticis Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hello all, I just installed an H105 on my i7-4790k (running stock) and ran Prime95 (small FFTs) and was horrified to see my temps hit 100C nearly instantly. I've got my pump on a fan header set to 100% max (it's running at a solid 1800ish RPM) and my rad fans are on a PWM header (they hit 100% speed as soon as the temps get over 50C). I've read a bit about some of the motherboards being too thin and needing washers, could this be my issue? Any suggestions? http://i.imgur.com/RAphQdL.png Here are my specs: Intel Core i7-4790K Asus MAXIMUS VII FORMULA G.Skill Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Corsair Air 540 3 Aerocool DS 120mm in front as intake, 1 Aerocool DS 124mm in rear as exhaust 2 Noctua NF-F12s mounted a pull intake on top EDIT: Just wanted to add this: The pump was making a slight kind of vibration sound, but it was just the normal sound I hear so often in many cases that sounds like a very slight vibration with either a cheap case or fan. When I touched the pump the ever so slight vibration sound stopped (and the pump is definitely vibrating to the touch, also AISuite shows the pumps fan speed at 1800 RPM). I tried to give all the thumbscrews a slight turn with my screwdriver. I did notice something that could be slightly alarming, there's a space (about an 1/8" gap) between the motherboard and the standoff. I'm going to try to get a better a pic but here's some rough ones for now. http://i.imgur.com/MpqMzUM.jpg http://i.imgur.com/a6VA1O1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubiewon Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 I am having the exact same issue as you except with a i5 4670k and H80i. All fans turned to max or min makes no diff on the temp and IBT made temps jump to 100C instantly. Wonder if I have a "thin" mobo as well (Maximus Hero VI). That or we both mounted terribly..me doing it twice in a row I guess.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snapper69 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 The vibration which stops when you touch it almost certainly means that it's loose. Check to see if there is any movement in the pump unit. If there is and you can't tighten it up any more with a screwdriver you may have to use rubber washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 The vibration which stops when you touch it almost certainly means that it's loose. Check to see if there is any movement in the pump unit. If there is and you can't tighten it up any more with a screwdriver you may have to use rubber washers. It's definitely tightened as far as I feel comfortable tightening it. I guess I'll try to find some washers at the local hardware store. I'm curious if I could use the LGA 2011 standoff. I thought I could use the smaller side of the threads facing the motherboard and the longer threads into the thumbscrews securing the pump. Has anyone ever tried this? Also, do you happen to know what size washers I should be looking for? Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick779 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 The h105 comes with 2 sets of standoffs, one set is longer for use with the socket 2011. I have an h105 and using the shorter set I still have a gap between the board and the cooler like you, but no thermal issues. oh, and dont use the stock paste, get something like arctic cooling mx4 or something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 The h105 comes with 2 sets of standoffs, one set is longer for use with the socket 2011. I have an h105 and using the shorter set I still have a gap between the board and the cooler like you, but no thermal issues. oh, and dont use the stock paste, get something like arctic cooling mx4 or something I might try the shorter set and see if that helps. I'm using Noctua NT-H1 paste but I'd like to think even with the OEM paste the temps surely shouldn't peg 100 on Prime95 with no overclocking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 The h105 comes with 2 sets of standoffs, one set is longer for use with the socket 2011. I have an h105 and using the shorter set I still have a gap between the board and the cooler like you, but no thermal issues. oh, and dont use the stock paste, get something like arctic cooling mx4 or something You are right but the extra set is for use with AMD the black set. The 2011 socket screws could not possibly fit with any other socket. The silver standoffs are what you are supposed to be using. I'm using h105 on x97-a right now with no issue. No way ur board is thinner than mine and I have that same looseness/gap before pump is installed. I'm maxing around 90 after hours of linx on max ram usage. Seams high but I'm running 1.4v lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Just an update, I added some washers to the back of the motherboard and it initially "looked" a lot better. The standoffs were actually flush with the motherboard. Prime95 say otherwise, however. I noticed there is STILL a small gap when I tightened everything up. http://i.imgur.com/r4N48Zo.png http://i.imgur.com/nVm0Vxu.jpg http://i.imgur.com/zeKWtrV.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 theres no need for the standoffs to be completely tight,the hydro once mounted will take up some looseness... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Yup, I know, I already read that so I only just hand tightened them as instructed in the manual. I didn't try to get wild with tools or anything like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Yup, I know, I already read that so I only just hand tightened them as instructed in the manual. I didn't try to get wild with tools or anything like that. just making sure;): on here ive seen some wild things done to these coolers;): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 just making sure;): on here ive seen some wild things done to these coolers;): Oh I agree, I wasn't offended at all. I'm happy for any advice I can get at this point. I'm really starting to think I've got a defective pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 have you checked to make sure the backplate is on correctly? with the e cutouts on 2 legs facing up,this will cause heating... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 have you checked to make sure the backplate is on correctly? with the e cutouts on 2 legs facing up,this will cause heating... The H105 has a newer backplate that doesn't have the notches. It looks like this: http://tpucdn.com/reviews/Corsair/Hydro_Series_H105/images/install1_small.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 :D: too many topic bouncing,,sorry well,if your sure you have a good paste spread ,you may want to start a support ticket and let corsair assist you on a side note,is the rad tubes noticeably different in temps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 :D: too many topic bouncing,,sorry well,if your sure you have a good paste spread ,you may want to start a support ticket and let corsair assist you on a side note,is the rad tubes noticeably different in temps? That's interesting that you say that as I hadn't thought to check that. I just grabbed the tubes in one hand and fired up Prime95 again. Of course the temp shot up to 95C+ instantly. I let it run for about 30 seconds, holding the tubes the whole time and they never got warm at all, there was no temperature change. Should I be able to feel the temp change in the tubes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 That's interesting that you say that as I hadn't thought to check that. I just grabbed the tubes in one hand and fired up Prime95 again. Of course the temp shot up to 95C+ instantly. I let it run for about 30 seconds, holding the tubes the whole time and they never got warm at all, there was no temperature change. Should I be able to feel the temp change in the tubes? no,if one is hotter indicate poor circulation,both same temp is normal if you rma,you can request a advanced rma so you can get it sooner wish i could help further but theres not that many things that can go wrong with these hydro's... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 no,if one is hotter indicate poor circulation,both same temp is normal if you rma,you can request a advanced rma so you can get it sooner wish i could help further but theres not that many things that can go wrong with these hydro's... I appreciate all the advice, I've opened up a ticket with Corsair support so hopefully they'll fix me up soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 no worrys,theyll take care of you how old is this hydro,if < 30 days then a replacement from where bought may be faster for you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 no worrys,theyll take care of you how old is this hydro,if < 30 days then a replacement from where bought may be faster for you... It's a week old and bought it from Amazon. I think you're definitely right about them being faster so I will go that route. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 yes i would also as im sure you would be as i and want your build purring along asap ...;): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 I went ahead and had Amazon send me a replacement unit but one final crazy question, if I may. I was reading a few other threads and saw several posts on not using Prime95 and Haswell as it will just cause nearly all of them to max out nearly instantly. Some of the posts were 6 months old so I don't know if this is true any longer as I've also read Prime95 has been updated. I ran the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility and "only" got 68-70C max on that test. At this point I'm happy it's not 100C but is 68-70C really all that better considering I'm running at stock speeds right now? Does anyone else use Prime95 on a 4970k with a Corsair AIO? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 What is ur voltage under prime95. Check with cpuz. Still temps shouldn't be that high. I max out at 90 with 1.4v but I'm delidded with liquid ultra on my 4770k. You'll likely be 10° or so hotter than me at same voltage. Every chip is diff tho. You may have a chip that is 1.25v stock but under avx it'll overvolt by .1v meaning 1.35v, which on your chip will likely get you the temps that your having. Check load voltage with cpuz for me while running prime95. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruticis Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 What is ur voltage under prime95. Check with cpuz. Still temps shouldn't be that high. I max out at 90 with 1.4v but I'm delidded with liquid ultra on my 4770k. You'll likely be 10° or so hotter than me at same voltage. Every chip is diff tho. You may have a chip that is 1.25v stock but under avx it'll overvolt by .1v meaning 1.35v, which on your chip will likely get you the temps that your having. Check load voltage with cpuz for me while running prime95. Good plan, I'll try that out when I get home and let you know. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikiem Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Just FWIW with apologies for this being maybe OT, though it was mentioned by the OP... The main purpose of the pump to CPU mount is to hold the cooler's contact surface tightly against the CPU's cover. Unlike the OEM back plate intended to support a heavier heat sink, the cooler's backplate more-or-less simply holds a nut in place so you don't have to. The backplate that came with my H105 only contacts the m/board where it goes through the m/board, not providing much of any physical support, but then I'm not hanging a big hunk of metal on it either that would require that support. Corsair designed their backplates to fit the highest number of m/boards possible -- that's good for customers & helps them keep costs lower. One side effect is that the part of the backplate that fits through the mounting holes on the m/board might be a bit longer than necessary -- once the stand-offs are screwed in & tightened there may be a bit of slop or play. And it's totally irrelevant, because once you mount the pump there's tension on the stand-offs pulling the backplate towards the m/board. Rather than simply bolting 2 things together, CPU heat sinks are usually held in place by some sort of spring tension, which keeps them tightly in contact with the CPU, but doesn't allow you to crush the CPU either [as could happen with at least one CPU mount design in the past]. You can watch the pump's mount flex, providing that spring tension, as you tighten it. The reason I wanted to post a bit of an explanation is in this thread [as well as others] I've seen adding washers mentioned to tighten the backplate's fit. If you used washers on the CPU side of the m/board that were even very slightly thicker than the amount the backplate sticks through the m/board, you're reducing the spring tension holding the pump to the CPU. If you used washers on the back side of the m/board you might increase that tension, but more importantly, you'd probably cause the backplate to stick out too far, hitting the back of the case & forcing the motherboard to flex. Would either cause problems over time? Personally I think the odds are fairly low, but why take the risk at all? That said, my experience mounting the H105's pump is that the extra play in the Intel backplate made it easier for the pump to cock or not sit flat against the CPU. After cross tightening the mount in stages, once the mount was tight against the stand-offs I backed each of the four nuts off slightly to help make sure it wasn't cocked. When I did that the pump jumped/rotated. The backplate was contacting & held in place by my case, except for one nut, which was right where the cutout was in the back wall or plate of the case. If I didn't start with that nut when making that final tightening twist, the pump & its mount would twist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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