Dragynfyre Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 So today I decided to reinstall my H80i because I was pretty sure I had lined up the grooves on the backplate incorrectly. So I cleaned off the old paste and applied some new MX-4. I applied a short line of paste down the center of the cpu. However, now my temps are actually 10-20C worse than before. So do you guys have any tips for applying thermal paste for the H80i? Also my H80i's pump makes the exact same noise as in this video: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nU17UBqmIis[/ame] and I believe its due to air bubbles since the sound goes away when I turn my case on its side. Any fixes for this? I actually have the exact same case and cooling setup as in the video (except I'm using the stock fans). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I use dot technique. Don't know what platform your on but usually half a pea size for intel and full pea size for amd. Right in center of cpu ihs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragynfyre Posted April 8, 2014 Author Share Posted April 8, 2014 Okay any idea on the air bubbles? If I turn my PC on its side the sound goes away but it always comes back after a while when I put back in the original position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latharion Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 I'm another user that employs the "dot tecnique" B-B sized drop of thermal compound (when I use thermal compound and not Indigo Xtreme). The method works quite well on Intel CPUs, and on Nvidia GPUs. I've never owned an AMD or AMI product so I cannot attest to them, but I'd bet the same method would work there as well. To address the air bubbles in the radiator, turn the radiator so that the hoses are pointed down, (either vertical or horizontal). Tap the pump lightly to move any air bubbles down the line, and it should stop pretty soon. Gravity is the best method for dealing with air bubbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragynfyre Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Hmm the problem is my case is so small that I can only have the hoses coming out the side. If I turn my case on its side for a bit and get the air bubbles out will they come back once I put my case back to normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latharion Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 The air bubbles will rise to the highest point they can. The reason the above method works is because it forces the bubbles to float to the highest point in the loop, and stay there. Follow your loop and spot places that are above the radiator. If the radiator is the highest point, the air bubbles will naturally float to there and pretty much stay that way. The pressure from the pump is relatively low so that should not create new turbulance which might disrupt this process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragynfyre Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 My radiator is mounted like this. http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e9/500x1000px-LL-e96dca55_2013-02-0116.15.37.jpeg As you can see the hoses are mounted horizontally. The radiator is the highest point but one hose is higher than the other. Is the H80i filled high enough that the water level will be above the top hose? Also can I even get the air bubbles to go to top and stay there when the rad is mounted sideways? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latharion Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 If you can turn the radiator so it faces "up" with the hoses on the bottom, the air bubbles should move toward the "top" part of the radiator. After that happens you can probably carefully turn it back the way it was and the air bubbles should stay above the hose line, and away from the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKeifer Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Agreed. In the picture the OP posted, the fact that one of the hoses is at almost the highest point, IMHO, is not the best solution. If that hose is the intake to the pump, then it could be sucking air from time to time and making the pump cavitate. The hoses and cooling block should be at the lowest point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragynfyre Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Unfortunately that is the only orientation the H80i will fit in my case. I notice that whenever I turn on my PC after leaving it off for a while there is no sound but it comes back after a few rounds of gaming. And which one is the intake? The hose that is closer to the top of the Corsair logo on the pump or the hose closer to the bottom? Also isn't the H80i supposed to work in any orientation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latharion Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 It does work in any orientation, but if any air is trapped inside the closed loop, then gravity takes over... and "gravity is a harsh mistress" -The Tick Basically, it's not a design flaw, but a simply fact of physics that any liquid cooling system faces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragynfyre Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 The problem is I can't seem to bleed the air out permanently whatever I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latharion Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 It's a closed loop so the air has nowhere to go except up. If it really is a concern, you always have the option to RMA it. Nothing bad will happen if Corsair ends up denying it, but they may (and probably will) approve the RMA, and swap out your cooler. You could end up with one that does not have the problem you are describing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 The problem is I can't seem to bleed the air out permanently whatever I do. you will never get the air out,the system isnt completely full to allow for expansion,,the best way to get the air out of the pump and at the top of the rad where it needs to be is to tap the pump and avoid agitating the water... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragynfyre Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Okay so I've done a few tests and it seems like whenever I start up my PC after shutting it off for a while the noise isn't there. However, if I play an intensive game the noise will come back after a round or two. If I don't do anything intensive the noise takes longer to come back. Therefore, I suspect thermal expansion of some parts of the cooler may be causing the water levels to fall below the top hose line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snapper69 Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 I recently read a test where they used various methods of applying TIM and then tested for temp and bubbles A smiley face did as well as the grain of rice, but the best for temp and fewest bubbles was an X. http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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