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#31
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#32
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Disregard the last picture
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#33
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OK, good. That's all you can do. It looks like the fan and radiator placement is not a restrictive issue. You'll have to see if this changes in a negative way when extended GPU loads are present, but there is no reason to expect that it will be a problem.
As for actually reducing the voltage induced CPU temp side of the equation, that is something you can address through the BIOS. Even if you are not going to overclock, setting a specific adaptive voltage often keeps everything on a tighter rein than leaving the Vcore on AUTO. If you haven't already, take a look at a solid professional review for the CPU. I found this one interesting and the stock CPU temps were higher than I would have expected. However, the Kaby's seem to clock right up without major penalties and the CPU was clearly designed for the temperatures you are seeing now. Keep in mind the hardware set-up in that review is an open bench, and as such, the coolant temp won't have the usual 4-6C penalty we all do with it in an actual case. Therefore, add +5C or so to their mark to estimate a case environment. You might look for an end user overclocking guide that will give you some idea of what other people see with various cooling solutions and voltages. It looks like the usual thread has already started at Overclock.net. |
#34
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Thanks. So the way it looks now my cooler is functioning properly and I am within safe limits? Just wish it ran cooler like my old 17-3770K but guess it's mot meant to be. You have been very helpful and Ill check out those articles you sent. Thanks again. I read the article ( i am also a Tom's Hardware member. Good stuff) and according to the article (please correct me if I am mistaken) the temps seem to be in the limits of their tests correct? I hoe so as I am going crazy thinking what I can do to cool this down. I do have room for a 140 MM intake fan at the bottom if that would help. Thanks
Last edited by Jackietools; 01-27-2017 at 01:23 PM. |
#35
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Jackie, what did you decide to do with the radiator fan control point? Did you opt for the pump control or the motherboard?
If you went for pump control, you will likely want to make a custom fan curve. The included default curves were designed for a 20-23C room and most us get outside that window at some point during the year. You can simply slide the whole scale up a few degrees or come up with something that suits you. This is the preferred means of control and it offers more consistent fan speeds compared to CPU temp control. Fans should be linked to H100i v2 temp group. If you go from the board, that is fine as well. There is no negative side to the cooling performance, however the inevitable side effect is frequent changes in fan speed as they try to keep up with the very dynamic CPU temp. You don't need the fans to do this and water coolers can absorb a fair amount of heat before CPU temp (and coolant temp) is affected. If it comes down to a choice between MSI software and Link, I understand that and would probably opt for board control for now as well. Hopefully, MSI has some built fan delays to prevent the frequent fluctuations. Unfortunately, while present on my Asus X99, it does not work for the CPU temp based control. |
#36
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I am not sure exactly what you are asking about the temps in the article. However, most of those tests are extreme and do not reflect real world use. The one thing that did catch my eye was higher than expected CPU temps for gaming (Watch Dogs 2). Obviously, gaming temps are quite dynamic but it was higher than I would have guessed. Perhaps it is because Intel has made more of the core power available for those tasks whereas on older CPUs, the core would lie dormant. I do think your temps are similar to everyone else's, but I am hopeful you can knock them down a little by setting a specific Vcore. What that value should be, I have no idea. The overclock arena may be able to give you a target that is successful for them. |
#37
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#38
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It’s been 2 years and I’ve finally had enough. I installed a Noctua DH-15 and CPU is super cool. In the last 2 days I checked and re installed the CPU plate using Arctic thermal paste. I reversed fan direction at top of case. I took out empty hard drive cages all to no avail. Heavy gaming and Intel Tuning Utility topped out temps of at least 100C with thermal throttling. Noctua only enters the 60’s and at idle about 31C. I think the problem is definitely the CPU plate not making full contact with the cooler plate. I tried resetting it 3 times and each time I removed it it looked like paste was not compressed as it should be. I have read about others experiencing this problem. Don’t know why I waited 2 years but glad I put the Noctua in. I’ll try to send pics.
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#39
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#40
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Hopefully these pics uploaded
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#41
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Yikes use the rad as intake on the front of the case.
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#42
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Yes that was an option I tried. It idled about 5 degrees cooler but under load still topped out at 100C. That is why I suspect a problem with CPU plate contact. Photo shows Noctua DH 15 installed
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#43
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Didn’t matter anyway. Coolant temp always stayed around 45-50 degrees under full load so coolant was getting cooled or not enough heat was being transferred from CPU to water jacket
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dark base pro 900, h115i |
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