druneau Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 ***Disclaimer: If this issue happens to you I don't recommend doing this. Just RMA them to Corsair I'm sure they will help you out. I did this to my set because I'm curious and like to try and get to the bottom of things. I've been using my HS1 usb headset since they came out. Recently I noticed sometimes I was missing some channels. I.E. on 5.1 content the center channel would drop out. I investigated and ended up on the headphone side of the inline control module. Moving that wire around made the channel(s) work/not work. So I proceeded to open the control pod to further test. I basically pinpointed the problem area to just outside the small "strain relief" rubber. It seems the combination of stiff cord + stiff strain relief (not damping the energy) is stressing wires. While I did not see physical damage to the individual wires, the next time it happens I will open the headset to confirm there is indeed a short/wire damage. Here's a resume picture. http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/164/druneauhs1repair.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wired Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 FYI opening it WILL void your warranty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druneau Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 Definitely, do not modify your HS1 headphones unless you don't care about warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsair Employee RAM GUY Posted June 14, 2011 Corsair Employee Share Posted June 14, 2011 druneau First thing I want to thank you taking the time and effort to post the details about the problem and the solution you found. However, I would have to strongly suggest against anyone doing this to their head set as it would VOID the Warranty. In addition, it would really help us if you can give us the lot code off of the label that is on the USB connector usually about 3-6" from the end of the cable. If you still have the BOX the came in you will usually find in at the bottom of the Bar code label. Should be about 6-8 numbers and be something like 10113455. Also please contact me VIA PM with your contact information, I have added you to my contacts so you can contact me directly by PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timma100 Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Exact same thing is happening to me, except its the center channel on both headphones. But I still get all the others lol. Making everything sound really far away. Because I live in an area with no to-the-home postal service, and they wont ship to PO boxes, looks like this is my only option. :( I figure if it breaks it, no biggie, was gonna buy a new headset anyway lol Not to sound like a big turd, but I honestly feel underwhelmed (saying that EXTREMELY nicely) by the quality for paying $100. But what ever :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jargavet Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Does anyone know about removing the inline module completly? I am having the same issue with sound cutting out. It was release day purchase so no RMA for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsair Employee RAM GUY Posted December 3, 2012 Corsair Employee Share Posted December 3, 2012 Does anyone know about removing the inline module completly? I am having the same issue with sound cutting out. It was release day purchase so no RMA for me. Did you open it up yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jargavet Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Yes, and I took some pictures but have not chopped anything up yet. After my post I taped the headphone side of the wire to the inline and that seemed to fix it, but today it completely stopped working no lights and computer does not "see" plug or unplug. I do not know if they are all like this but my inline module has always been hot. Like shockingly hot. And if you will notice it looks the glue has "re-flowed" across the other connections. The USB side is the same way but doesn't seem as bad. On the underside with the switches the solder also did not seem to flow all the way through (from chip to switch side). Looking at the left side of the IC it looks like pins two and three have fused together. The number on the sticker: 10349202 My current thinking is this: A) Return and resold, but i don't think it was out long enough for this to occur. B) QC failed and somehow got in the good pile. C) Bad connection from 800D front USB connectors. The far left port is completely dead. D) Cord curling was always an issue and my efforts to straighten probably caused problems. However I was always mindful to untwist at the USB end after the inline module (headphones would sit in my chair). Was looking at the vengeance 1500 and it looks like the same inline module did you change the connectors? I would suggest something similar to what Sony uses on there PS3 drives. It could be described as a very tiny PATA cable with a locking mechanism. Would certainly help with QC on solder joints. On the topic of C, whats a good method/tool/utility to test a USB port voltages signal etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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