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  #16  
Old 09-28-2005, 02:59 AM
lhyde lhyde is offline
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Surprise... Surprise. There was more air in the system. The rad was half full. Originally, when filling the system, I would lay the rad flat on the table barbs up; pump the fluid thru and then mount the rad again to the back plate. Tonight I unhooked the rad again, but instead of laying it flat I let it hang so the barbs were up at the top. Burp..Burp big air bubble. I could add another third of a bottle of water to the tank. It takes a fair amount of fluid to totally fill that rad. I'm monitoring the temps again. They're still not as low as I'd like, or as low as todays conversion. Next I will readjust the CPU block; but that won't be until after the weekend. Got to travel for the next 5 days.
Ta-ta 'til then.
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  #17  
Old 09-28-2005, 11:34 AM
iced98lx iced98lx is offline
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Default Air In RAD

well that makes sense, my rad was filled while it was mounted, barbs down.

*smacks head* duh. I'll have to take it off and spin it around... (good thing I left some excess tubing!) see if any air comes out... would that significantly help my temps if the coolant is cool anyway though? We'll find out.

also, how much did your temps go down???


Chris
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  #18  
Old 09-28-2005, 12:02 PM
iced98lx iced98lx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iced98lx
well that makes sense, my rad was filled while it was mounted, barbs down.

*smacks head* duh. I'll have to take it off and spin it around... (good thing I left some excess tubing!) see if any air comes out... would that significantly help my temps if the coolant is cool anyway though? We'll find out.

also, how much did your temps go down???


Chris
okay I just inverted my rad completely, no air came out. (I was dissapointed)

here's a question- when you hook your tach signal wire up to your MB header, what RPM does it tell you? My pump is currently registering 35xx and I thought when I originally plugged it in and monitored it the reading was more like 5xxx... maybe i'm out of my mind or looking for an answer as to why this isn't working..


chris
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  #19  
Old 10-01-2005, 11:09 PM
lhyde lhyde is offline
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I've been away for a few days. My CPU temp dropped from 51*C to 48*C. Not as much as I had hoped. My pumps (all 4) all run about 3540rpm. They vary a little as the power supply 12v fluctuates; but never below 3500, and never above 3575.
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  #20  
Old 10-04-2005, 10:07 PM
iced98lx iced98lx is offline
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mines gotten better with a Shim, if you don't have one, get one. Evidentally the block doesn't sit level with out it.. I'm idling right now at 44 that's without the fan on the rad on.. (hehe, I like silence) but it's also fairly chilly in here (room temp of 71~ish.) I've been loading to 48-50 depending on what I"m doing.. games are all around 46-48 prime 95 with the max-heat setting hits 50... my ambient in-case temp is 52.. I'm not convinced of the temp readings off this board though.. my bios reads 45 idle directly after turning the computer on, where as speedfan reads 35 when it first boots up...


overall still not what I was sold, but hell I"m stuck with it now, I guess I'll look for a better block and quit whinning it was cheap.

Chris
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  #21  
Old 10-04-2005, 10:27 PM
lhyde lhyde is offline
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I reseated the block today. (A7N8X-E-Dx) Not much difference ... now running at 47*C under load. So what do I need to order? A shim for Socket A or Athlon XP? The other Barton 2800 is still at 39*C, same load conditions; but a slightly different mobo(A7N8X-Dx).
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  #22  
Old 10-05-2005, 10:21 AM
iced98lx iced98lx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhyde
I reseated the block today. (A7N8X-E-Dx) Not much difference ... now running at 47*C under load. So what do I need to order? A shim for Socket A or Athlon XP? The other Barton 2800 is still at 39*C, same load conditions; but a slightly different mobo(A7N8X-Dx).

well that's a pretty good load figure as far as I can see... The SHIM i'm refering to is just peice of copper or non-cunductive material (cardboard) you can order online.. just make sure you get one that pretty much so just has the outside ring, some of them that have cross peices down the middle interfeare with barton core, like the copper one I ordered... I just had to snip a few peices out and smash it flat again... if you don't mind doing that svc.com has the copper ones for $3.xx shipped USPS 2 days and you'll ahve it.. I can post a diagram of what I cut out.. that helped my temps a few degrees, and also adds some peice of mind as you're installing, it gets hard ot crush the core.. allthough I"ve never done it, or even seen someone who has, so I don't know what the big fuss was about.

anyway, are you overclocking?
do you have the latest bios in each one?
that seems really fishy, could there still be air or other issues in the one?
(I'm stilll looking for air in mine, i'm not convinced it's correct)
what are you using for load temps? A better measure might be prime95 torture test using "Blend maximum heat" which does pretty muchso what it says... then we'd be comparing apples to apples.


Chris

Last edited by iced98lx; 10-05-2005 at 10:24 AM.
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  #23  
Old 10-05-2005, 11:50 AM
lhyde lhyde is offline
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I found an outlet for ThermalTake AMD shims. ($4.00 CDN) I ordered 2.
I'm not OC'g the Bartons; but I have 2 P4's that are OC'd at 15 percent. I run SETI@Home CLI on all PC's 24/7/365. CPU usage shows 100 %. I don't think my problem is air. The fluid in the piping is clear, not foamy looking like a "margarita". I have the up to date BIOS's in all PC's.
A7N8X-E-Dx Load = 47*C; mobo = 28*C; ambient Room = 22*C
A7N8X-DX Load = 37*C; mobo = 27*C;
P5P800 P4 530J OC'd to 3.54g Load = 39*C; mobo = 33*C
P5P800 P4 540J OC'd to 3.68g Load = 39*C; mobo = 31*C
I've never tried Prime 95; but I'll "google" it and try to find a copy to use. The SETI should be okay as it crunches work units using 100 % of the cpu cycles. I have no idea what idle temps would be unless I stop SETI for a 1/2 hour; which I may do just for comparison info.

Larry

UPDATE: CPU idle temps. Bartons don't show much change ; because,(?) they're not OC'd, or other apps running in bachround ??
E-Dx = 46*C
Dx = 36*C
530J = 32*C
540J = 30*C

Last edited by lhyde; 10-05-2005 at 02:29 PM.
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  #24  
Old 10-07-2005, 06:32 PM
lhyde lhyde is offline
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Well I added the shim to the Barton that runs hotter. Temps actually got hotter (55*C) under load. and are about 46* at idle. Using ASUS probe and MBM 5, temps read the same, but that is expected, because they read from the same sensors or diode. I will try to find another way of measuring temps. There are 2 sensors that come with the P160 case and I'll tape one to the CPU waterblock. Perhaps the mobo sensors are reading high. I will take the shim out again and try the reseat once more.
Updates later....
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  #25  
Old 10-07-2005, 07:38 PM
lhyde lhyde is offline
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I removed the shim and reseated the waterblock with a Antec P160 sensor under the ridged area of the waterblock. Using ASUS probe the CPU temp is 46*C at idle and 52*C under load (Prime95 & SETI), BUT; the Antec sensor is reading 39*C !!!, which is the same as the other Barton 2800. I think the
A7N8X-E-DX CPU sensor is not accurate. The shim showed marks around the edges, so I know the block was very tight against it.
I will not concern myself with CPU temp readings using ASUS probe on this mobo any longer. I am satisfied that the CPU with the watercooling is now in the same range as the other watercooled Barton CPU on the A7N8X-Dx.

Last edited by lhyde; 10-07-2005 at 07:40 PM.
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  #26  
Old 10-08-2005, 12:10 AM
iced98lx iced98lx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhyde
I removed the shim and reseated the waterblock with a Antec P160 sensor under the ridged area of the waterblock. Using ASUS probe the CPU temp is 46*C at idle and 52*C under load (Prime95 & SETI), BUT; the Antec sensor is reading 39*C !!!, which is the same as the other Barton 2800. I think the
A7N8X-E-DX CPU sensor is not accurate. The shim showed marks around the edges, so I know the block was very tight against it.
I will not concern myself with CPU temp readings using ASUS probe on this mobo any longer. I am satisfied that the CPU with the watercooling is now in the same range as the other watercooled Barton CPU on the A7N8X-Dx.
great info for a7n8-e board owners.. You didn't put the sensor between the core and the copper did you? more generally just to the side of core..

your shims, this seems interesting, are they hitting anything on the cpu? if they're made for palimino cores and have cross-bracing they will not sit properly on a barton core, and stand to crush the L2 cache. careful inspection must be made to ensure it is sitting just on the silicon.

otherwise, the 39 is a great load temp. did you use the 'max heat generation' 'torture test' setting in prime 95? I find it usually adds 1-2 degrees over SETI or HL2/BF2 I guess i'm going to have to find a sensor and cut it into my shim so I can see true temps, i'm sure this board is off.

chris
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  #27  
Old 10-08-2005, 12:48 AM
lhyde lhyde is offline
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My shim is a ThermalTake 1215. No cross braces, but fairly wide around the edges. It doesn't touch on any part of the chip or the visible components on the CPU board.
The sensor is between the raised plastic lip at the top of the CPU holder and the indent on the waterblock. Physically tight between the 2 parts, and nowhere near the CPU chip. It is sensing the copper on the waterblock and not the CPU.
I'm running prime95 and SETI together. I can't find any settings in the prime 95 test. 'torture' etc.
I will photo the Shim and add it to this post later.

UPDATE: I added the shim pic.
In the Options menu of Prime95 I can see torture test and benchmark; but they are greyed out. Maybe I need to uninstall and find another download of Prime 95 ??
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Copper Shim.jpg (265.7 KB, 151 views)

Last edited by lhyde; 10-08-2005 at 01:36 AM.
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