Problems with H100i GTX fan control

I am new here but I have problems with my H100i GTX and I need some help. The fans speed control don't work properly. With corsair link in performance mode or quite mode the fans work fine in idle, but after some stress activity, like games or stress softwares the fans go to maximum after some time and stay there for quite some time, even if I come back to idle again. The custom curve option in CL simple doesn't work for me because go to 100% don't matter the curve points that I put. The fixed mode works fine. I checked cables and everything but with no results. If I use other softwares that can read the cooler, like SIV or HwInfo with corsair link off the fans go to fixed in the lowest rpm possible. Everything is just too weird to my taste.

My cpu temps in idle are 38-40c (ambient 29c). In gaming 55c-60c. In OCCT after 5 minutes 68c 71c. So the temps I think it's fine considering my ambient temperature.

Adding the fans to the wrong group or trying to set it to run from CPU temperature would have been an easy fix. But if your are sure that's not it, then it's possible there is a software or firmware issue. There are a couple of people more knowledgeable about the firmware who may be able to help. For trouble shooting purposes, I would stick with one of the preset modes (Quiet. Balanced, Performance) to minimize any other variables in play.

However, there is another possibility. Each of the presets are set to a generic "temperate climate" kind of scale. It's different for various coolers, but often the 100% fan speed line is around 40C on the water temperature. Given your room temperature, it's likely your water temperature (H100i GTX Cooler Temp) hovers in the mid 30's Celsius at idle on the desktop. Even a small load might push it up to near the 100% line and it will stay there until the water cools down. That is a slow process in a warm room. I can see why you would go straight to a custom curve and that will be necessary to make the cooler tolerable for use. See if you can post a screen shot of LINK that shows the custom curve you are trying to use.

Indeed the h100i gtx overrides any profile, except the fixed mode, and go to 100% if the cooler temperature reaches 40c. I made some test yesterday and I noticed that. I am not trying to use a custom curve.

I want to understand something here. Regardless my ambient temperature if someone in cooler place made a stress test the cpu temps would reach beyond 50c to 60c, so the cooler temp should be with temps that can reach 40c? What I am trying to say is really the 40c a factory design feature? Because is a annoying one. I will never user performance, balanced or quiet mode.

Just adding: I changed the fans for the Noctua NF-F12 IPPC 2000. The originals also have the same problem with fan control, i changed because of the noise.

Aswer me a question. All curves in corsair link, don't matter if I use pre defined mode like quiet or custom curve use the cooler temp instead of cpu temp? If yes there is a way to use with cpu temp? When I am trying to drag the fan to cpu group but shows me this message: This device can be associated with its own sensor only.

 

Aswer me a question. All curves in corsair link, don't matter if I use pre defined mode like quiet or custom curve use the cooler temp instead of cpu temp? If yes there is a way to use with cpu temp? When I am trying to drag the fan to cpu group but shows me this message: This device can be associated with its own sensor only.

Hi,

The H100i GTX fan can be controlled through Corsair Link software only linked to the cooler temperature, nothing else can be linked. If You would like to link the fans to other temperatures than I recommend to try the SIV software developed by red-ray which has integrated control for link devices. Using SIV You can also get Your problems with fan control resolved easier.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=140665

Please read how to use SIV if You decide to use it and don´t start Corsair Link when running SIV. I recommend using it, for me works well really!

Additionally, please check if You have these properly done:

1. Connection:

- 3PIN connector of the CPU block to CPU/CPU1 header on MB

- Y connector to CPU block

- 2 x 4PIN fans to the Y connector

- Data cable to CPU block , other end to USB header

2. Bios setup:

- CPU fan controller disabled / manual 100% / full speed

Regards,

Peter

Your baseline idle temperature, whether it is CPU or the water inside the cooler, will always be largely determined by room/case ambient temperature. If you live in the Tropics and your room is 35C, the CPU and water temp will be at least 35C before you even power on. Obviously it's impossible to predict room temperature for everyone, so they make a curve based on "normal" room temperature 72F/22C. Even then, other hardware can affect the internal case temperatures and more serious users will want to use a custom curve. If you live in a temperate zone, you probably see a room temperature difference of at 10F between Summer and Winter which is enough to alter the fan speed from what you might expect.

You will want to use a custom curve. I only suggested you temporarily use one of the presets for two reasons: 1) To make sure the fans are changing speed with the factory defaults and unit is basically functional; 2) To eliminate a programming error on the custom curve in determining whether the fans will react to changes in water temperature.

It sounds like the fans do react to changes in water temperature, but of course because of your higher than normal room temperature, the fans are running too fast. That is a solvable problem, but you are going to have to do it using water temperature and not CPU temperature. As far as I know, neither the H100i GTX or H110i GTX are capable of running fan curves based on CPU temperature. That is why you get an error message when trying to associate fan speed with CPU temperature. You must use water temperature (H100i GTX Temp). However, don't forget the fans' job is remove heat from the water. Removing heat from the contact plate and chip lid is the water's job and the fans don't need to keep in step with dynamic CPU load.

The easy recommendation is to raise the curve by +7-9C at each point. This will account for your room temperature and keep the fans from blasting at desktop levels. As you get used to it, you can refine your curve for your individual needs. Figure out the typical high water temperature during your heavy usage and then link that to a fan speed you can stand. The NF-12's will work fine.

You also have the option of dropping the LINK system entirely. You can move the fan headers on the motherboard, fan controller, or whatever, then use an alternate control method. Presumably your BIOS will let you set fan headers to CPU temperature. This really doesn't change the effectiveness of the cooler. If anything, it is likely to make your fans run more often than needed, but you may find the control easier. This will make LINK less helpful, other than changing the LED or monitoring your power supply.

I am not sure I got all your questions. The water temperature thing takes some getting used to, particularly if you have been running on air for a while. If I initiate a full Prime95 stress test, my voltage will load instantly and in a fraction of a second the CPU temps will have reached a high level. No fan can keep up with that, but it does not have to. The water is removing the the heat transmitted through the block. The radiator and the water inside then become a holding tank for the heat, until it passes through the fins of the radiator and the fans help release it outside the case (hopefully). Even at low fan speeds, it takes some time to raise the water temperature inside the radiator. The more water in the tank, the more heat you can hold. Water temperature is very slow to change, both up and down. Obviously, CPU temps are extraordinarily dynamic and change by the millisecond as voltage is turned on and off.

Your baseline idle temperature, whether it is CPU or the water inside the cooler, will always be largely determined by room/case ambient temperature. If you live in the Tropics and your room is 35C, the CPU and water temp will be at least 35C before you even power on. Obviously it's impossible to predict room temperature for everyone, so they make a curve based on "normal" room temperature 72F/22C. Even then, other hardware can affect the internal case temperatures and more serious users will want to use a custom curve. If you live in a temperate zone, you probably see a room temperature difference of at 10F between Summer and Winter which is enough to alter the fan speed from what you might expect.

 

You will want to use a custom curve. I only suggested you temporarily use one of the presets for two reasons: 1) To make sure the fans are changing speed with the factory defaults and unit is basically functional; 2) To eliminate a programming error on the custom curve in determining whether the fans will react to changes in water temperature.

 

It sounds like the fans do react to changes in water temperature, but of course because of your higher than normal room temperature, the fans are running too fast. That is a solvable problem, but you are going to have to do it using water temperature and not CPU temperature. As far as I know, neither the H100i GTX or H110i GTX are capable of running fan curves based on CPU temperature. That is why you get an error message when trying to associate fan speed with CPU temperature. You must use water temperature (H100i GTX Temp). However, don't forget the fans' job is remove heat from the water. Removing heat from the contact plate and chip lid is the water's job and the fans don't need to keep in step with dynamic CPU load.

 

The easy recommendation is to raise the curve by +7-9C at each point. This will account for your room temperature and keep the fans from blasting at desktop levels. As you get used to it, you can refine your curve for your individual needs. Figure out the typical high water temperature during your heavy usage and then link that to a fan speed you can stand. The NF-12's will work fine.

 

You also have the option of dropping the LINK system entirely. You can move the fan headers on the motherboard, fan controller, or whatever, then use an alternate control method. Presumably your BIOS will let you set fan headers to CPU temperature. This really doesn't change the effectiveness of the cooler. If anything, it is likely to make your fans run more often than needed, but you may find the control easier. This will make LINK less helpful, other than changing the LED or monitoring your power supply.

 

I am not sure I got all your questions. The water temperature thing takes some getting used to, particularly if you have been running on air for a while. If I initiate a full Prime95 stress test, my voltage will load instantly and in a fraction of a second the CPU temps will have reached a high level. No fan can keep up with that, but it does not have to. The water is removing the the heat transmitted through the block. The radiator and the water inside then become a holding tank for the heat, until it passes through the fins of the radiator and the fans help release it outside the case (hopefully). Even at low fan speeds, it takes some time to raise the water temperature inside the radiator. The more water in the tank, the more heat you can hold. Water temperature is very slow to change, both up and down. Obviously, CPU temps are extraordinarily dynamic and change by the millisecond as voltage is turned on and off.

Thanks for the explanation. I deciced to stick with corsair link but I have to think on cooler temp. I just want to when the cpu is in idle the fans remain low and gaming remain fast, but not 100%. I guess I have to figure out what is the cooler temp in gaming and stress test like occt. I just have one more question. I know that have a lot of threads talking about temps with 4790k, but mostly on ambients in 23c or below. Having a ambient in 30c like my and the temps in idle in 38-42 and gaming 50-60 (depends on game) and stress test like occt after 5 minutes 68c-72c. Theses temps are good or lets say compatible with the product?

I noticed that the corsair link go to 100% if the cooler temp reach some temp that is not in the curve. Let's say that if you put a initial point in 40c and the the idle temp is in 35c the cooler go to 100%. So I imagined that in quiet, balanced and performance mode has something like that when reach the maximum curve point. My cooler and the pump is in H100i GTX Cooler temp group.

I was able to put fairly good custom curve now based on cooler temp, and its working, but the margin to work is narrow. In idle the cooler tends to be in 37c, in gaming can reach 43c ("hot games" like batman arkham knight and crysis 3), in stress test passes 44c and I never see reach 45c. So I have 1 or 1.5 to differentiate game from heavy load, so I had to put the gaming curve point higher. I think that my curve points are fairly good but could be a little better if based on cpu temp so i tried to set things with siv.

Unfortunately the siv control did not work for me. I went into link fan status setup the feedback temperature to cpu-2 and choose the mode to 6 for custom curve for both fans. I fill all the 6 points for the 2 fans apply and save. Initially the fan followed my curve, but as soon the cpu get hotter the fan did not move until I click in apply again, so I had to keep clicking in apply to the fan curve work. I don't know if missed something but it's not working. The corsair link was off during the time that was using siv.

I don't think you need to over-complicate the water temperature differences. A 1C difference in water temperature isn't meaningful in terms of cooling, and of course you have far more variance than that in your daily room temperatures. It sounds like 44 or 45C on the water is about your peak value. I would set the highest fan speed you are comfortable with to 45C and then a gradual curve back to your desired desktop fan speeds vs temperature. I am not currently using LINK, so I don't know what kind of fan delay is programmed in for each step. That may be the determining factor whether running LINK will be useful to you.

I am a still a little concerned about the fans ignoring the Quiet mode parameters and whether than was a one-off glitch or regular behavior. Perhaps someone who is using the H100i GTX can add to the discussion.

I can't help you with the SIV program, but fortunately there is someone with substantial expertise on the matter. Hopefully he can help.

Unfortunately the siv control did not work for me. I went into link fan status setup the feedback temperature to cpu-2 and choose the mode to 6 for custom curve for both fans. I fill all the 6 points for the 2 fans apply and save. Initially the fan followed my curve, but as soon the cpu get hotter the fan did not move until I click in apply again, so I had to keep clicking in apply to the fan curve work. I don't know if missed something but it's not working. The corsair link was off during the time that was using siv.

Hi,

- I assume, that You have setup SIV qualifiers (Status/Configure/SIV Qualifiers), select: -AIOCTL (SAVE)

- Create synthetic group for Your CPU temps (Status/Configure/Synthetic Setup). Name the first row, set input points amount (number of cores + CPUPKG temp) (Apply than Save)

- Now create the fan profiles (Status/Link Fans). For fan profile chose number 6 (custom), than click the "pink" square and selelect the temperature to be followed (here chose Your synthetic CPU temperature You have created), than create Your custom points. When ready, press apply than save.

You are ready! SIV must run (don´t shut it down), You can create also an autorun for it (Status/Configure/SIV Autorun). Select the options (-AIOCTL) and press create. OK. Your are ready, next time will SIV start with Your windows.

Note.

SIV is not able to setup your cooler LED, You can do it in the CL software, offcourse linked only to the cooler temp. Set it up once for your preferred temps, once done You don´t need to run CL software to make the LED color change (it will be done without CL running).

If You activate in qualifiers also the GPU fan control, than You can control the GTX980 fan with custom points also like the CPU fans.

If You find on Status page displaying some strange temperatures, voltage, data, please contact red-ray he will help You out with that.

BR,

Peter

Guys thanks for the help, now I understand more of this cooler. I changed my setup to intake with push and the temps are 5c cooler. After cold system start and 10 minutes with OCCT i had 72,71,71,67 (celsius) and my ambient is in 30c. I made all tests today. Intake, exhaust, push or pull. I chose the intake even if the internals are somewhat warmer and the maintenance more difficult. I put my old CM 212X Evo to compare and I got temps around 12c hotter. Up to this point I had not made this comparison to see my investment in a better cooler.

Ok I just sharing my satisfaction after a bad first impression. Thanks for the SIV tutorial, and I was able to set fan control with cpu, but I changed my mind, I will stick with corsair link custom curve. Thanks.