RGB on pump seems to put temps up?

Hello, I have recently installed a brand new corsair RGB h100i platinum SE into my computer, installation was fine but as soon as I loaded it up and downloaded iCUE both of the 120mm LL fans started to instantly go to 1500rpm and the temp of the pump would keep rising from 29 degrees all the way up to about 39 for no apparent reason. After a lot of stress we figured out that the outside 12 RGB points would cause the temperature to go way up, the 4 RGB points for the logo on the pump is fine and can have rgb effects on that but not on the border surrounding the logo? This case has really confused me and now I'm stuck for an answer. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I would create a custom fan curve for the cooler so it doesn't ramp up that loudly when your system is fine.

Hello, I have recently installed a brand new corsair RGB h100i platinum SE into my computer, installation was fine but as soon as I loaded it up and downloaded iCUE both of the 120mm LL fans started to instantly go to 1500rpm and the temp of the pump would keep rising from 29 degrees all the way up to about 39 for no apparent reason. After a lot of stress we figured out that the outside 12 RGB points would cause the temperature to go way up, the 4 RGB points for the logo on the pump is fine and can have rgb effects on that but not on the border surrounding the logo? This case has really confused me and now I'm stuck for an answer. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

I have an H100i RGB Platinum (non SE) and don't have this issue and I have all the RGB's lit. Mine sits under 27C and doesn't move until the system is under load. So, the fact that yours is rising to 39 sounds odd, for sure. You certainly don't want to overtighten the pump head on the motherboard, but I'm wondering if perhaps you don't have solid even contact between the cold plate and the CPU? Might be worth trying a re-paste to see.

 

Perhaps another forum user with have a POV here, but I agree something doesn't appear quite right here.

 

Tony

I have an H100i RGB Platinum (non SE) and don't have this issue and I have all the RGB's lit. Mine sits under 27C and doesn't move until the system is under load. So, the fact that yours is rising to 39 sounds odd, for sure. You certainly don't want to overtighten the pump head on the motherboard, but I'm wondering if perhaps you don't have solid even contact between the cold plate and the CPU? Might be worth trying a re-paste to see.

 

Perhaps another forum user with have a POV here, but I agree something doesn't appear quite right here.

 

Tony

 

Yeah I agree it's very strange, maybe it is worth taking it off and redoing the process, I'll let you know if anything changes, thank you very much

Yeah I agree it's very strange, maybe it is worth taking it off and redoing the process, I'll let you know if anything changes, thank you very much

 

So after some testing of reapplying the cooler and removing the drivers and all that nothing has changed, apart from now even if I put the logo rgb's on the temp slowly rises from about 28 to 35 degrees...

My brother also got a non se the same time I got mine, we installed mine then installed his and he has had no issues with his so far so I'm starting to think its either just my pump, which i'm not convinced by because when I have no rgb's on the pump its works how it should, or it's something to do with because it's an SE version? Maybe the difference between SE and non SE is that my SE version is white but I have really no idea at this point:sigh!::sigh!:

Seems real odd. Did you check how much CPU was being utilized while the RGB was on?

This is apparently something that happens with some coolers but not others. The solution (for now) is to adjust your fan curves accordingly. I do know that Corsair is looking for a better fix for this.

This is apparently something that happens with some coolers but not others. The solution (for now) is to adjust your fan curves accordingly. I do know that Corsair is looking for a better fix for this.

Ah right, that's a bit strange but makes sense, I thought I can only apply fan curves with the commander pro? I don't have one of them just a node pro I'm afraid:[pouts:

It is most likely a physical sensor placement issue. You are not the only one. You'll have to see how much it affects it in real time, but solid whites likely have the most effect and you may not want a flashing color that will in turn cause the fans to pulse. You can also play around with turning the brightness down, either in the settings or with the color wheel ring control. These things are pretty bright as it is.

 

Yes, all the "i" coolers have an internal fan controller you can access through iCUE. Click on the cooler in the app, then "Performance". Click the + to create a new " cooling mode". This is your custom fan curve and I recommend everyone eventually move to this instead of the presets, regardless of model or usage. You still want H100i Platinum as the control variable (coolant temp) but keep the curve somewhat flat in your normal zone. You do not need fan to be overly reactive in a water system. The cold plate will conduct heat out of your CPU at a constant rate. The coolant holds the heat until the radiator and fans dump it somewhere else. That does not need to happen at 1 to 1 rate. Slow and steady will get the job done moving out the trash heat. Those spikes you get at moments of heavy CPU activity are absolutely not affected by pump or fan speed. There is nothing you can do about those, but water cooling gives you a lot more heat capacity to work with so extreme or reactive fans are not needed.

Edited May 11, 2019 by c-attack

Ah right, that's a bit strange but makes sense, I thought I can only apply fan curves with the commander pro? I don't have one of them just a node pro I'm afraid:[pouts:

 

as said.. No don't need a Commander Pro bud. and you are in very good hands with c-attack and DevBiker.. both are worth their weight in gold when it comes to advice on these here forums :).. if they say its so.. its SO.. ;)

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/OmXnasEl.png

 

and example of mine set to run a 900rpm fixed rpm curve

Edited May 11, 2019 by Zotty

It is most likely a physical sensor placement issue. You are not the only one. You'll have to see how much it affects it in real time, but solid whites likely have the most effect and you may not want a flashing color that will in turn cause the fans to pulse. You can also play around with turning the brightness down, either in the settings or with the color wheel ring control. These things are pretty bright as it is.

 

Yes, all the "i" coolers have an internal fan controller you can access through iCUE. Click on the cooler in the app, then "Performance". Click the + to create a new " cooling mode". This is your custom fan curve and I recommend everyone eventually move to this instead of the presets, regardless of model or usage. You still want H100i Platinum as the control variable (coolant temp) but keep the curve somewhat flat in your normal zone. You do not need fan to be overly reactive in a water system. The cold plate will conduct heat out of your CPU at a constant rate. The coolant holds the heat until the radiator and fans dump it somewhere else. That does not need to happen at 1 to 1 rate. Slow and steady will get the job done moving out the trash heat. Those spikes you get at moments of heavy CPU activity are absolutely not affected by pump or fan speed. There is nothing you can do about those, but water cooling gives you a lot more heat capacity to work with so extreme or reactive fans are not needed.

Ah right, that's awesome! I had a little look earlier to no avail but I had no idea that anyone could create them, I'll have a play around with it now, do you recommend an already made curve by someone else or should I trial and error one for myself as room temp might have a lot to do with it.

Thank you very very much guys!:laughing::laughing:

Ah right, that's awesome! I had a little look earlier to no avail but I had no idea that anyone could create them, I'll have a play around with it now, do you recommend an already made curve by someone else or should I trial and error one for myself as room temp might have a lot to do with it.

Thank you very very much guys!:laughing::laughing:

So as soon as I put the rbg on with the custom curve the temperature just kept rising from 30 to about 39-40 degrees, in turn, causing the fans to spin right up.

So I'm asking now, to say if I just fixed my cooler fans to around 800rpm and stuck the RGB lights on, the temp would just keep going up and that's not really okay, but the temp that it gives you for the pump is that actually the real temp or is it just lying about going up when I put the RGB so it says about 39 degrees on the icue software but it would still be sat at 31 degrees realistically? Or is the temperature actually going up for real because I put the rgbs on? Also, I turned the rgb's down on the pump and fans but it's still saying that it's running at 36 degrees idle which is obviously too high.

Really confused about this, cant really make a curve or set a rpm because the temps just keep rising, unless the temp reading icue is giving is false when I turn the RGB on?

Thanks for the help up to yet guys I really appreciate it

No, always make your own. There is no 31C=good! 33C=bad:( kind of logic to coolant temps. They are always unique to your room environment and case. In fact, it is not unusual for people in temperate or Mediterranean climates to have more room temperature shift than coolant temp shift from load. You'll have to work out where the coolant normally rests at idle (and at what room/case temp) and where you get to on load. Set it quiet and flat around the idle value. Set acceptable fans speeds (volume) for your normal peak temperature. Save the 1600+ blast for something +5C out of range. That will give you an audible cue if something is out of bounds. The benefits of blasting the fans are small and likely of far lesser value than a comfortable experience.

 

Coolant temperature is your minimum possible CPU temperature with zero voltage. Most people will idle about +4-6 above the room temp and I would expect a max CPU loads of about +6C above that for your cooler and CPU. The tricky one is gaming/renders or any mixed CPU/GPU load. The GPU is the real heater and when it warms up the case by +5C, the coolant/radiator and everything else goes up +5C as well. This means combo load temps may end up +10C or so above the start point, even thought it is decidedly less CPU load than a stress test. That doesn't change the need for cooling, but bear that in mind when setting up the curves.

Edited May 13, 2019 by c-attack

So as soon as I put the rbg on with the custom curve the temperature just kept rising from 30 to about 39-40 degrees, in turn, causing the fans to spin right up.

So I'm asking now, to say if I just fixed my cooler fans to around 800rpm and stuck the RGB lights on, the temp would just keep going up and that's not really okay, but the temp that it gives you for the pump is that actually the real temp or is it just lying about going up when I put the RGB so it says about 39 degrees on the icue software but it would still be sat at 31 degrees realistically? Or is the temperature actually going up for real because I put the rgbs on? Also, I turned the rgb's down on the pump and fans but it's still saying that it's running at 36 degrees idle which is obviously too high.

Really confused about this, cant really make a curve or set a rpm because the temps just keep rising, unless the temp reading icue is giving is false when I turn the RGB on?

Thanks for the help up to yet guys I really appreciate it

 

The coolant temp or H100i Platinum temp is false, or rather is being supplemented by the additional heat off the LED. The problem is since that is the base of the fan control, you can't just ignore it. Combat it on two fronts: 1) pick lighting effects that do not cause huge changes; 2) Adjust the fan curve with the extra padding in mind. So if you are using a solid green color and the coolant rises up to 36C, make that the baseline and start your curve there.

Edited May 13, 2019 by c-attack
Predictive text sucks.

If it was me I would be contacting support for an exchange or return the unit. Can you the owner of the device or Corsair prove that when the LEDs are on they are only heating up the AIO temperature sensor and not the water in the loop without opening the water loop to add an additional sensor? I sure wouldn't want my RGB pump possibly adding such a substantial amount of heat to the water. Temporary fixes and waiting for a fix shortens a retuirn window.

Yes, actually, you can.

First - thermodynamics. There is NO WAY that an LED is going to heat up the entire loop that quickly. It just doesn't happen. Nor would a loop cool down that quickly.

Second, a temperature sensor in the exhaust flow of the radiator is a really good proxy for the coolant temperature. So you can, actually, get a really good idea.

 

That said, if the OP wants to contact Corsair Support, that's his/her option. But saying that it's heating up the entire loop shows a complete lack of understanding of the basics of thermodynamics. Just sayin'.

I understand thermodynamics fully well as an engineer. My post was from a consumer perspective and engineering perspective, hence stating "possibly" heating up. Placing a sensor at the radiator exhaust may be a good proxy for overall water temp but not for what is going on at the AIO's sensor location in close proximity to the CPU. Bad sensor, sensor installed in incorrect location, temperature offset missing from firmware or software, the problem could be any of the above or more.

 

If my new car's engine overheating light comes on when the headlights switch on it's going in for warranty work, I'm not taking chances. Just sayin...

The delta in water temps throughout a loop is no more than 1-2C. To say that the LEDs are heating up the entire loop is pure FUD.

 

The LED is too close to the temp sensor. That's the issue. It's not heating up the entire loop. This has actually been discussed on other threads as well as on the private beta channels.

 

Again, if the OP wants to contact support or return it, that's their option. However, until this has a permanent fix, there's no guarantee that the next cooler won't have the same issue, resulting in increased frustration over the issue. The general advice has been to find the new baseline based on the LEDs reading and adjust the fan curves accordingly.