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Old 06-20-2017, 09:53 AM
Samekas Samekas is offline
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Question Corsair H115i Push Pull config

Hello,

I want to run the corsair h115i in push/pull and I wonder if I can connect two fans splitters to the fan splitter coming out of here h115i and connect 2 fans on each splitter. The fans would be Corsair ML 140 Pro
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:07 AM
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Arrow Push/pull of 280mm coolers is total overkill and a waste of time and money

  1. Push/pull of 280mm coolers is total overkill and a waste of time and money.
  2. To do this then you need to use 2 x 4-pin PWM fan Y cables.
  3. See http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=796027 for why you should get a CoolIT H110i rather than an Asetek H115i .
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red-ray View Post
  1. Push/pull of 280mm coolers is total overkill and a waste of time and money.
  2. To do this then you need to use 2 x 4-pin PWM fan Y cables.
  3. See http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=796027 for why you should get a CoolIT H110i rather than an Asetek H115i .

Thanks for the past reply but I have already the Corsair H115I, so this Noctua NA-SYC1 cables would do it right? The sata power of the corsair H115I can power up all these 4 fans? I don't think it's overkill, I get a extra airflow inside the case aswell too, because I have the radiator on the front and I'm using the Define R5 case.
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:48 AM
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Idea Post the link to it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Samekas View Post
this Noctua NA-SYC1 cables would do it right?
Post the link to it
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:50 AM
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http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156661

ML series fans are quite reasonable with their current draw, so total amperage should not be a problem. Those splitters should work and I have daisy chained the SYC1 cables before without issue, but not specifically on a H115i.

I am not sure how much you'll get from this, but front intake might be the one place where it could have a benefit. You could get the same airflow with 4x700rpm vs 2x1000 or somewhere along those lines. Whether the increase in fan noise will be worth it is another matter, but at lower speeds it should be. Just remember with front intake, the more efficient you become at moving heat out of the coolant stream, the more heat goes into case. +2-3C on either side seems irrelevant, but there is usually a cost somewhere.
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red-ray View Post
There you go: http://noctua.at/en/na-syc1
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c-attack View Post
http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156661

ML series fans are quite reasonable with their current draw, so total amperage should not be a problem. Those splitters should work and I have daisy chained the SYC1 cables before without issue, but not specifically on a H115i.

I am not sure how much you'll get from this, but front intake might be the one place where it could have a benefit. You could get the same airflow with 4x700rpm vs 2x1000 or somewhere along those lines. Whether the increase in fan noise will be worth it is another matter, but at lower speeds it should be. Just remember with front intake, the more efficient you become at moving heat out of the coolant stream, the more heat goes into case. +2-3C on either side seems irrelevant, but there is usually a cost somewhere.
I see thanks for the info, so you're saying the in this case my graphic card would get more hot? Since it's what is most near to the radiator.
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Old 06-20-2017, 11:44 AM
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That is a possibility, although likely insignificant. What I really meant was if your CPU is performing a task and putting XX watts of heat in the coolant stream, it will increase the coolant temperature. When you increase the airflow across the radiator (either by more speed or more fans) you will theoretically remove more heat from the coolant stream and release it, in this instance into the case interior. Reducing the coolant by 2C will also reduce your CPU temps by 2C, but that energy has to go somewhere. At worst, you could theoretically raise the ambient air temperature on the other side of the radiator by the same 2C, although the difference in raising coolant temp by 2C and air temp by 2C are not exactly equivalent and the whole thing is really much more complex. The short version is there is no free lunch and you are shifting energy from part of the case to another or from one form to another.

Whether this is a good trade or trade is very user specific. If you have something on the back side of the radiator that benefits from direct cooling (like a m.2 drive), another set of fans might knock a few degrees of that device or the more direct flow from the interior set of fans may do a better job at removing surface heat from the top backplate of the GPU. I think the general CPU cooling aspect is slight as best, but there can be additional effects that are desirable.

ML fans are very multi-purpose and they can be used as case fans, radiator fans, drive fans or most anything else. I wouldn't expect any miracles, but it might also be fun to see and there could be other uses for the fans. You could also be cautious and order from some place friendly on returns, in case it does not work out as you hoped.
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Old 06-27-2017, 10:22 PM
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Default Appologies for hijacking. My forum UI doesn't show New Post button.

Hello guys,
I have a Carbide 600Q case that came with X3 140mm PWM fans. At the moment I have it set up with the H115i in push/pull config using fans that came stock. One set (top of rad) off mobo CPU header, the second set (bottom of rad) off the H115i's pump module. Fans are audible at 1000 RPM which is roughly my idle speed with Corsair LINK reporting 32°C (it is hot where I am). Problem is, that fan speed is very audible to me. I'd like to switch to a quieter setup, note the case I purchased is not really "Quiet".

Problems could be.
1. Case fans forced as radiator push/pull may be flow optimized thus choking with all the new restrictions.
2. H115i stock fans are loud.
3. All stock fans are not good enough for my delicate little ears.

Possible solution
1. Get powered PWM 4 splitter using LINK to control, run pressure fans at low RPM.
2. PWM 4 splitter wire using modo AIO header (can handle draw) and UEFI to control.
3. Same as above but use SpeedFan to control.
All above solution will replace with Noctua or Corsair high end lower speed fans. Hope this might give input to poster as well.

Again, I'm sorry to be posting here, can't seem to find new-post button and this was the closest themed thread found.
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Old 06-27-2017, 11:18 PM
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Is the radiator on the bottom of the case? Or front intake? Based on the top/bottom description, I am guessing bottom.

Problems are 2 & 3, although you can make an immediate adjustment to take the edge off. You don't need 1000 rpm. I don't know how hard you're running the 7700K, but an increase in coolant temperature is not the bulk of the CPU temperature. I don't need more than 1000 rpm with a single set of fans on CPU drawing 215w. The presets for the 3 curves are not golden values and each and every case has different optimal settings. You can only decrease your coolant temp with fan speed. So if the H115i temp only goes up 5C when under load, the most you possible reduce the temps is by the same 5C at any fan speed. In reality, 100% efficiency isn't possible. Make a new fan curve with more relaxed points. You don't need 1000 in push-pull. The original curves are based on a 20-23C room temp, so you and most everyone else needs a more Summer friendly curve. You can shift everything north by 10C or set your comfortable limit to the highest coolant temp you normally see. Then set a sharp increase on the other side to let you know when you've crossed the line.

I don't particularly like the SP140L's that come with the cooler. If you are running them inverted (as intake on the bottom mount), I am not surprised you can hear them. Most people have the same issue when top mount exhausting. I would look for single set of higher quality 140mm PWM radiator fans. The ML140 is a good replacement, but there are certainly other choices.

There are other control options as well, but you might want to try and get a handle on Link first. It is likely the easiest solution and if not acceptable, then pursue the other options.
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Old 06-28-2017, 12:59 AM
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c-attack, thanks for the quick reply,
I will assume you are referring to my most recent post instead of Samekas's original, if wrong, apologies.

H115i are on front pulling though open case mount but through screen. Ambient in my workstation room is 29°C so yes Summer curves should apply. Might have winter settings at the moment. As I am OK with 7700K idling at 40°C , will try adjusting Summer curves as such. But, SP140L's LED brother (probably same motor/chassis) is a poor performer compared to the cheaper (yes I know mine are "free") NF-P14s redux-1200. 2/3 the noise, 1/3 better flow, 1/3 the power draw.

So, assuming SP140 LED's max power draw is similar to SP140L at 0.26A, I'm safe going quad Noctua (again I don't know Corsair high end fan's perceptual acoustics) I will go quad redux or dual iPPC. Have contacted Noctua Support with idle dB/A inquiry which will be the decider unless Corsair Forum members give a better suggestion.

Last edited by stephanpark; 06-28-2017 at 01:02 AM. Reason: forgot to respond to assumption
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:26 AM
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Wrong thread perhaps but relevant to last post. May re-post when my "New-Post" button ever shows up.

The H115i is refusing to reduce fan speed below 1000 RPM. Set it manually to minimum (25%) and it stays at 1000 RPM with temp reporting 27.5°C. Corsair LINK 4's H115i fan control range is 840 to 2400 RPM, but 25% of what, available range? That is 1230 RPM. Do you guys have any documentation? Is LINK capable of knowing attached fan rpm min-max if changing to any other fan including Corsair's own?

Last edited by stephanpark; 06-28-2017 at 04:43 AM. Reason: elaborating on findings.
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Old 06-29-2017, 12:54 PM
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Fan minimums should be unique to each fan. I can run my ML140 Pro's down to 425 or so. NF-F12 industrial even lower, although that isn't always a good idea. Sometimes you run into spin-up issues at super low speeds, even on PWM fans.

I don't know why Link will not let you drop the SP140L (included) fans below the 1000 rpm speed. A 1000-2000 PWM range is extremely uncommon, but I do not have the those fans to test.

On a workstation with the H115i as front intake, I am perfectly fine with push pull. You are going to have extended loads, likely have no real control over the office cooling policy, and knocking a few hundred rpm off the front speed may be very much worthwhile for all day affairs. Mixing the SP140 LED and SP140L (include fans) can be a little tricky. Despite the name, they have little in common besides diameter. Definitely different motors, possible different bearing types, certainly different blade designs. I have a pile of the SP140 LEDs and used to change them in and out on a regular basis. Even now with more advanced fans in my collection, I still throw them on from time to time and am happy. My remembrances of the L version are not as colorful. Most importantly is the L is PWM fan the LED a DC motor. This makes running them from one control source difficult and because of the wide speed range differences, similar speeds are elusive as well. The LED model could become resistance for the L version if the speeds are too far apart. Rather than a performance difference, this would likely be more noticeable as fan/air noise.

I am not sure about that 0.26A current for the SP140L. I can't find the spec at the moment, but I remember being a bit shocked by the value. You do not want to run them on a splitter from a single motherboard header as it will exceed the 1.0A threshold.
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  #14  
Old 07-01-2017, 10:16 PM
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Default apocalyptic-chic

c-attack, sorry for the late response, didn't realize auto-subscribe is not default on this forum.

Have switch all fans to Noctua brand. To respect forum host, will not go into details. I can say that I now have 5 new fans to add to my wall of wind apocalyptic-chic desk fan!
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