Paolo_Z

I understood what the problem is, no burnt LED is just loose something inside the heatsink, fortunately this model has the interchangeable case, then I unhooked the gray shell of the watrblock and made a slight pressure with the thumb of the hand and it works well , as soon as I change color after a few seconds it stops again I apply a slight pressure again and the white returns so it's something not fixed inside what do you recommend? is there a DIY way to apply the correction? this thing me he remembers the old televisions when you didn't see him punch him and he settled himself I attach the photo :) https://ibb.co/brp6fqK

Sorry if I resurrected this old discussion, in my hydro h115i I have the exact same problem with the same symptoms as yours and I am going crazy looking for a definitive solution :(, have you then solved via software? Or have you made a rma replacement?

I just found out that if I turn off the PC from the power for an hour the white LEDs start working again as a result I can put yellow or green, but as soon as I go to the color selection and start changing the colors the problem reoccurs, if instead I don't touch anything and I do not turn off the PC the white color remains there even for hours, it is really very strange I am going crazy with this problem I do not know if there is always some hardware interference with the motherboard or the problem is software :( always looking online on this forum i found an old discussion about an h80 that practically has the same problem as me :( https://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=856144&p=856144

yes exactly I just understood that the problem is the green LED .. do I have to do rma or is it something related to the software?

thanks for the answer, I updated to the latest version of icue, mine is the h115i 2016/2018 version it is really strange if I attack and turn off the pc after many attempts the color returns to white but after 5 minutes it has returned pink, practically I have problems setting white, yellow and green, instead red and blue work, I attached and disconnected sata and usb cables on 10 attempts twice I managed to get it back to white but as soon as i turn off the pc and turn on again the white turns pink i don't know anymore where I hit my head I start to think that the problem is hardware and not software..I could try something else? I tried all the software but nothing the only way to understand would be to try to install an old version of 5 or 6 months ago but where can I download it?

Hi I write from Italy and forgive me for my English, I use google translator. I have a problem last night I replaced my asrcok z370 extreme 4 with an asus formula x and from here the problems with rgb icue started the writing corsair on the heat sink if I select white I get pink, if I select yellow I get a very dark pink almost off , while blue and red work, and yellow turns blue, I tried to uninstall and reinstall icue but without success, I took a step back installing an older version of the same problem, desperate yesterday I turn off the PC and fix the cables behind doing cable management after I hung up everything and magically the writing was back white and not pink, this morning I leave the house I turn off the PC and on my return I turn on the PC and again instead of white the writing is pink what should I do? can you help me I'm going crazy with this problem I don't know if it's a hardware or software problem I don't know what to do anymore :( help me please

you're right .. because the numbers even if they vary are always the same .. type 11.904 and not example: 11.905 or 11906 or 11.907 but only 11.904 always the same thing with 5v and 3v respectively 5v peak 5.040 or 5.016 never 5.039 or 5.15 the numbers are always identical with the variations .. so I'm starting to understand that the software is the culprit and not the output voltages of my power supply, at this point I'm sure that with a tester or a multimeter I would have variable values ​​of different numbers but above all the 12v if the software gives me 11904 maybe the tester at that moment marks 12.10 / 20 so I start to believe that my copy has no problem and it's just my mental paranoia here :) thanks a lot for the help I really need to understand this

here is perfect you hit my nervousness because it falls and I read less than 12 on the 12v with loads under 500 watts I don't like that 11.09XX even if it's far from the minimum standard ATX it's just that I saw an incongruity in my power supply compared to that of the review ... already starting has 12.273 and my 12.192 while they are equal psu so there must be an error in reading the software because the review one keeps the 12v at a peak low of 12.247 with the load of 110% !! and the mine to even 500watt load already goes down to 11.904 ..> _ <

ok thanks a lot now i'm quieter as my result is normal, i was a little worried because in reviews like this https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-ax1000/2.html

nobody helping me?

Hi guys I write from Italy and I use google translator so forgive me for any text errors. I think I have a problem with voltage regulators .. reading the various reviews of this power supply I don't match the results with the 12v and 5v lines under stress..I tried to go down hard to test the 12v and 5v lines, then I brought my 8700k to 5.1ghz limit, overclocked my 1080ti to 2050mhz and the memories I gave + 500mhz with afterburner and vga fans set to maximum, I have a corsair h115i both fans of 140 set to maximum including the pump with maximum speed .., I started to run prime95 and fullmark simultaneously and these are the results( I attach the screen)the values ​​have gone down under 12 and also the 5v has decreased so much in the reviews I read that it remained above 12v with overload of olre 1200watt ... here already I go down as soon as I push my system that is undersized compared to this feeder or it is normal? please thank you for any clarification reply