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Fillmore Graves

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  1. If i had this keyboard and issue I would seriously try to find some way to get some contact cleaner in the wheel and spin it around quickly and do so several time, give it 5mins or so to dry out properly and test it as I am fairly certain these use some kind of encoder that is simply getting dirty. Just make sure the keyboard is unplgeed when doing this obviously.
  2. Sounds like there gunk, dirt, dust w/e inside the wheel mechanism as this sounds a whole lots like a dirty encoder problem mouse scroll wheel often have. Have any of you tried cleaning it with alcohol or some other fast drying contact cleaner? When the PC is off and keyboard powered down try spinning the wheel really, really fast for a a min in each direction see if it get any gunk to unstick from the inside contacts then power on the PC and try it again.
  3. If it still guaranteed get a new one first etc but when a mouse scroll wheel has issues scroll up or down it's usually the encoder that defective/cheap or just dirty. I have to clean my elite rgb scimitar once a year due to cat hairs and dust making the encoder malfunction and its rather easy since the encoder on this one is not sealed but open while on my son asus rog gladuis III its a square sealed encoder so I bought a 5 pack replacement on alieexpress and its easy to change as it not soldered on but just snaps in place and you plug in the little connector. Corsair seems to go the soldered in route though so cleaning is your best bet if still have issues and the warranty is done.
  4. You could also try just cleaning the encoder inside which is mostly likely dirty/dusty etc
  5. The scimitar uses a open rotary design encoder so it's easy for dust or hairs to get in it and cause the scrolling up and down to get all wonky like this. I have an elite rgb scimitar and my cat loves to walk over my lap or stand over the mouse and generally make her presence known when I am using the PC and invariably every like once a year I have to take the cover off and clean the encoder. I don't use grease or anything like that as the way the mouse is made any free floating cat hairs that get inside will get stuck on the grease and cause problems. I just give it a general clean removing the cats hairs everywhere then once I don't see anymore just use a q tip dipped in rubbing alcohol and squeeze a drop or two on and into the encoder and spin it back and forth the make sure it's getting worked in and all around. Let it dry properly and then test it and generally that does the trick, if not clean it again. Never had to clean it more than twice. Put the cover on, plug it back in and voila done for the year.
  6. The scroll wheel encoder is a open rotary one so hair and dust gets in real easy, just take the cover off and clean it with something like rubbing alcohol or special electronics contact cleaner. I just use rubbing alcohol. I have an elite rgb scimitar and my cat loves to walk over my lap or stand over the mouse and generally make her presence known when I am using the PC and invariably every like once a year I have to take the cover off and clean the encoder. I don't use grease or anything like that as the way the mouse is made any free floating cat hairs that get inside will get stuck on the grease and cause problems. I just give it a general clean removing the cats hairs everywhere then once I don't see anymore just use a q tip dipped in rubbing alcohol and squeeze a drop or two on and into the encoder and spin it back and forth the make sure it's getting worked in and all around. Let it dry properly and then test it and generally that does the trick, if not clean it again. Never had to clean it more than twice. Put the cover on, plug it back in and voila done for the year.
  7. Built my son a new PC: 7800x3D cpu b650 tomahawk mobo TeamGroup T-FORCE VULCAN 2x16GB) DDR5 6000MHz ram (no bling bling on it) Everything is working fine except I noticed on idle his cpu was at like 12% usage and switching between high and very high power usage for "system" in the task manager. He has CORSAIR iCUE v5.8.130 with iCUE Murals installed. Using windows 10. I have a 5800x, x570 tomahawk mobo with more things running at idle and only get 2% cpu usage and low power usage. Both PC have pretty much that same settings such as high performance power plan, with sleep mode off etc etc. I have CORSAIR iCUE Software (Version: 4.29.203) installed. Using windows 10. After using msconfig to figure this out turns out the new version of icue which I installed on my son new PC build CORSAIR iCUE v5.8.130 with iCUE Murals is the problem, as soon as I turn icue off his cpu usage goes back down to 1-2% and low power usage comparable to what I have on my PC build. I installed icue version CORSAIR iCUE v4.33.138 with iCUE Murals on his and that seems to have fixed the issue. I tried doing a repair install of the newer version of icue and same issue. NOTE: In task manager it is not the icue.exe programs that have the high usage but instead icue causes the "SYSTEM" (ntoskrnl.exe) to spike up in usage and cause it to have high power usage as well which cause overall cpu usage to hit around 12% instead of what should be around 2% usage. Not sure how long the new version of icue has been out but it got some issues with windows 10.
  8. I bought the scimitar back in Nov 20, 2021 and it has been a good mouse so far. I now have an issue where the "rubberized" cover is peeling and was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible to simply get a replacement cover for this or no? Dunno but I don't really wanna spend $100 cdn for another mouse when this one works perfectly fine and is only suffering from some odd cosmetic issue making it look super gross. I also have never cleaned with anything other than a damp cloth so its not an issues on my end. Never had an issue like this with any mice before.... usually it a always the left click button crapping out after a year or 2. Included a pic.
  9. Managed to fix it by updating iCue to 4.29.203 which give the option I was looking for and my old k55 still seems to be working fine with icue and WPE.
  10. I have icue 3.35.152 works just fine for my scimitar mouse and original k55 keyboard, I am a little hesitant to update to the newest iCue so is there somewhere safe we can down load the older version I am using in case I have issues with the update version?
  11. Is it possible to block game integration for games selectively so they do not talk to each other? I know you can turn the SDK off but I want to keep it on but just block a game from killing the RGB lighting on my keyboard.
  12. Late reply here whole family caught covid after going to a wedding so wasn't online much. Thanks when I get more used keycaps will add some updated pics!
  13. Here's another video with the wasd keys done but talked my son out of doing the spacebar as I think it may look weird and I do not have a replacement for his K55 pro xt. One thing I learned is that while normal keycaps on the k55 and k55 pro xt are the same and interchangeable the spacebar is slightly different and not, they flipped the little notch inside around on the opposite side and the little leg holder for the metal bar is slightly different. The problem though is that they flipped the notch otherwise it would fit. Will have to see if they flipped the notches around on the shift, enter and backspace keys too since they also have metal bar so might have improved those too.
  14. Hmm didnt realize there was a time limit on editing posts hopefully it just for the opening post? Here is the video:
  15. While the K55 is "only" a membrane keyboard it now has the Pro XT variant which has per key RGB which allows light effects like many mechanical keyboards. That said being membrane you can't really buy a set of "pudding" or clear keycaps for these keyboards. I think Corsair should sell complete replacements sets, I mean these are already being made and they will even send you some for free. I got WASD and spacebar free and the support person was very helpful even though he couldn't sell me a complete set. The alternative is buying the keycaps off used and/or even broken K55 keyboards which is what I am going to try doing soonish. I wanted to test this first see if it would be worth it and I think it is. DIY K55 pudding keycaps. You will need an extra set of keycaps if you do not want to risk the one you have on the keyboard right now. Wet/Dry sandpaper, these can be used dry OR wet 1000 and 2000 grit. Cost me like 80cents per half sheet at the autoparts store. The little local hardware stores in my area didn't have anything finer than 400 and 600 grit which is kind of course for plastic like this. New keycap on the left and my old K55 keycap on the right. I will be wet sanding the old one on the right: My work area, I am working inside a food tray not to get the table wet. You just put enough water on the abrasive paper so it sticks down to the tray. In the tray the black looking paper is the P1000 which is obviously wet which I used to remove the black paint all around the key. P1000 is pretty fine so there will be spots you have to use your finger to rub the paper against the spots that are being missed by just rubbing it against the paper and tray itself. I then used the P2000 paper, I used it dry, to give a couple swipes on each side to make sure the sides are fine and smooth. You can see the whitish mark on the grey P2000 paper where I swiped the W key. My results after wet sanding the W key. On my K55 original keyboard before and after. Looks much better in person than on the pics! On my boys K55 Pro XT. Video: Will update
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