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Project CURV3D: Finishing the structure


CORSAIR Technical Marketing
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This blog series is about how you can build your own case from scratch.

Part 1: The Beginning - http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2015/september/project-curv3d-the-beginning

Part 2: Hardware and case - http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2016/february/project-curv3d-hardware-and-case

Now it is time for Part 3. So last time I finished the frontplate, now it is time to make the backplate for the case, which will house the I/O-plate, the power-connector for the Pico-PSU and some ventilation holes.

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The principle is the same as for the frontplate. I started by cutting out the entire shape.

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Next thing to cut out is the hole for the I/O-plate, it can be a bit difficult to measure out where it should be. What I did was to install the motherboard into the case, and then push the backplate as close to it as possible and then mark out where to cutout.

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When cutting out make sure you cut less than you marked out and then file down the rest by hand.

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Next thing to do was to figure out how to design the ventilation holes, this was my first idea.

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But it ended up being two lines instead of three.

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Cutting out the hole for the Pico-PSU connector was easy, mark out where it should be and use a regular drill.

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I/O-plate fits, power-connector fits, frontplate fits, success!

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I installed all the hardware to see if everything works, which it did. So let’s keep on working, next thing to do is to paint the front and backplate.

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Painting aluminium with spraycans can be very difficult, the paint does not stick as good as it does on steel for example. But I will go through how I think the best way of doing it is. What you need:

  • Self-etching primer for aluminium.
  • Regular paint.
  • Clearcoat.
  • Fine sandpaper.
  • Time and patience.

So first of all you have to sand the surface down to get the paint to stick better. Next thing is to start with the self-etching primer, do 6-7 thin layers and let it dry for 24h.

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Sand it down with very fine sandpaper to remove any scuffs and then go on with the regular paint, same here 6-7 layers with 10min time between. Let it dry for 24h.

Let’s sand it down again with fine sandpaper and then finish it off with a few layers of clear coat.

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If you do it right and let it take time to dry properly, you will get a good result.

This was all for this blog, in the next one I will go through the Pico-PSU, sleeving and how I made a custom-part for the SSD.

See you next time!

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