ProClockers, Force Series™ 3 SSD Review — "With the performance number we saw here today we feel that there is no better time than the present to upgrade from the typical mechanical drive to an ultra-fast SSD like the Force 3." /corsairmedia/sys_master/productcontent/blog_corsair-weekly-review-round-up-maximum-carbide-series-edition-Content-2.png.pagespeed.ic.RwhYgDGj5Q.pngTweakTown, Hydro Series™ H80 CPU Cooler Review — "What the H80 has for me to see value in is simply three things. Number one is performance; I mean it rocked our TECC and showed us that these coolers can keep up and run with the big dogs. The adjustable at a touch cooling, with the option for the additional Link later on makes the new Hydro series coolers even more adaptable. To round out the trio, there is the mounting." Overclockers Club, Special Edition White Graphite Series™ 600T Mid-Tower Case Review — "Overall, the features of the Corsair Graphite Series 600T work well, and the Special White Edition offers some extra benefits over the original version — for only a tiny bit of a price-hike." Hexus, Carbide Series™ 400R Mid-Tower Case Review — "The Carbide Series 400R doesn't have the visual lure of Corsair's previous solutions, but it manages to retain a lot of what's good about the Graphite and Obsidian Series enclosures and offer it in a package costing less than £90." blog_corsair-weekly-review-round-up-maximum-carbide-series-edition-Content-6.php?image=10996Guru3D, Carbide Series™ 400R Mid-Tower Case Review — "However for 99 bucks you do get a serious chassis that does not forfeit a lot, in fact labeling it mid-range or mainstream doesn't even do it justice. The work space inside is great with easy access to pretty much anything and with 8 expansions lots there is plenty room for multiple graphics cards that are lengthy. Everything can be installed tool free and the new retention 3.5" HDD clips work a lot better then the previous models have shown." Hardware Canucks video review of the Carbide Series™ 400R Mid-Tower Case:
Towards the end of May this year we launched our Dominator® GT CMGTX7 DDR3 memory upgrade kit. This kit consists of two 4GB memory modules for a total of 8GB of memory. They are rated at 2400MHz 9-11-10-30, which make it the fastest 8GB production DDR3 memory kit available. The last time I overclocked high density modules was when I was testing the 16GB Vengeance kit, which overclocked to 1921.8MHz. You can read more about my earlier Vengeance overclocking run on the Corsair Blog. Since I love pushing components to their limits I wanted to see what the new Dominator GT kit could do. I started off with one of my favorite motherboards for memory overclocking, the GIGABYTE™ GA-P55A-UD4P along with an Intel® Core™ i7-870 Processor. For the cooling I was using a single stage phase change unit to cool the CPU. This is very similar to your refrigerator however it cools only the CPU, it can get the processor as cold as -40°C. Later on in the testing I used a liquid nitrogen container by K|ngP|n Cooling to cool down the memory. This special container called the Dominance Memory Cooler was specifically designed to fit on top of the Corsair Dominator memory modules. The rig was powered by a single Professional Series™ Gold AX1200 power supply and for the SSD I used a 120GB Force Series™ drive. I started off by testing the maximum frequency I could run at the stock timings. After about an hour of testing I was able to reach a frequency of 2508MHz. This was a 108MHz overclock that ran without any issues. After reaching 2500MHz I wanted to go even faster. So I decided to test the modules with looser timings and go for the absolute maximum speed. I started out by going to 2550MHz, then to 2600MHz. I was shocked to see the GTX7 kit hitting these kinds of frequencies, especially because this was a high density kit running in dual channel mode. I wasn't about to stop there though, I kept on pushing and soon was breaking 2700MHz! I asked myself could it do 2800MHz? I kept on pushing and hit a wall at 2796.2MHz, less than 4MHz shy of 2800MHz. Knowing that I was not going to be able to sleep unless I hit 2800MHz with this kit, I had to do something to get those last few MHz. I took the extended fins off the modules and mounted the Dominance Memory Cooler on top of the Dominator GT memory and filled it with liquid nitrogen. Cooling the memory helped the memory modules get that last little bit and I ended up with a frequency of 2819.8MHZ! I was completely blown away by the results, considering reaching this frequency previously meant you had to use a single module! I not only achieved that result with two memory modules in dual channel, but I did it with a high density kit. To put this in perspective this is only 156MHz shy of what I had previously reached with a single Dominator GT CMGTX6 module. You can go back and read about that CMGTX6 overclock run to 2976MHz on the Corsair Blog too.
Simon and Garfunkel once famously sang in a hit song from the 1960s “these are the sounds of silence”. I always thought that was a curious expression. If something produces sound, then it’s not silent. I was thinking about that fact recently when I read over some communications I had with Rajinder “Raja” Gill and Juan “JJ” Guerrero from ASUS. We were discussing just how cool the new second generation Intel Sandy Bridge CPUs can be run and also the plethora of power saving options on current P67/Z68 based motherboards. It’s getting extremely easy to build a really quiet and powerful PC. This discussion started me thinking about building a silent, or at least a very quiet PC. JJ suggested that I take a take a look at the ASUS P67 Sabertooth paired with a 2500K CPU. I liked the information I found so, I got 1 of each and then I started a very careful parts selection which resulted in an outstanding system, pictured below. I concluded that this would be an excellent board and CPU to mate with the Hydro Series™ H60 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler. The H60 is very quiet and effective and is a perfect fit for this sort of build. My current case of choice for this project is the Corsair Obsidian Series® 650D Mid-Tower Case. The dark interior looks great with the color scheme on the Sabertooth. The 3 speed fan controller and the large quiet 200mm fans should be easy to tune for a low noise system. I also decided to use a set of our new Special Edition Arctic White Vengeance™ Low Profile Low Voltage DDR3 memory upgrade modules. Running these beauties at the low voltage of 1.35v is a great option to help reduce heat in this system. Making a quiet system is much easier with cooler parts. The Professional Series™ Gold AX850 PSU uses our Hybrid Silent Fan Control which has 3 different fan modes. One of these modes is Fanless Mode. Fanless Mode means just that; the fan blades are completely stationary. There is no audible PSU noise in Fanless Mode, which is active when PSU output is below 20% of the rated DC output load. So, at any power usage less than 170w, this PSU is completely silent. I wanted to avoid having any HDDs in the system to further eliminate sources of system noise. So, I went with 2 SSD drives. For the OS, I used the Force Series™ 3 120GB SATA 3 6Gb/s Solid-State Hard Drive. For added silent storage, I went with the Force Series F240 Solid-State Hard Drive. Transferring files and storage intensive tasks are a breeze with this setup. A very quiet breeze I might add. I topped off the parts list with a silent passively cooled NVIDIA G210 based GPU from ASUS, the EN210 Silent and the ASUS BW-12B1LT-18 Blu-ray optical drive. The EN210 is a solid GPU with VGA, HDMI, and DVI video outputs and best of all, it's silent! The ASUS optical drive is definitely fast as we discovered when we performed our video archiving tests. As you may have seen in other build logs using our Graphite Series 600T cases which share several features, the 650D is a system builders dream. Actually putting the parts into it took no time at all and I had a very sleek look inside which fits the theme of this build. Just like with our earlier build logs using a 600T, the grommet system, drive mounting options, and other features all contribute to a great building experience and wonderful functionality. I also decided to try an idea I have had for a while. The fan controller on the 650D accepts a 12v input from the PSU. I decided to move the 12v pins on a 4-pin male to female molex extension cable. So, instead of supplying 12v to the fan controller, it’s getting 5v. Since this system runs so cool, I expect to be able to get away with much lower fan RPMs. I also attached the 2 radiator fans for the H60 to the 650D fan controller. The pump of course needs a steady 12v so it’s connected directly to the MOBO CPU fan header. The BIOS for the Sabertooth is very comprehensive. I left everything at the stock settings and enabled every power saving option I could find. The result is a system that is so quiet, I can’t tell if it is even running unless I am actively using it or if I can see a case fan spinning. Here's some of the basic info from the CPU, Memory, and SPD tabs on CPU-Z. You can see some of the extremely low voltages indicated. Even under VERY heavy loads, I have not yet heard the AX850 fan kick on. When and if it has run, it’s inaudible to my ears. For example, Prime95 (the In place large FFTs setting for maximum heat and power consumption) for one hour produced the following temperatures, with an ambient room temperature of 24C and the case side panels on, and no audible increase in noise. The ASUS Thermal Radar utility tells the story. In some of our previous build logs I have used the Auto Gordian Knot utility to archive the movie that is my forum namesake, Yellowbeard. So, I used the same DVD and the ASUS drive speedily ripped right through the DVD files. Here's a link to on the previous build logs for a comparison. Our previous overclocked X58 + Core i7 950 OCd system performed this same task in 20:54. After the rip using the Gordian Knot tool, this system at completely stock settings silently archived the same movie using the same software in 20:09! This silent build offers excellent overall system performance. PCMark Vantage is a great tool for checking out just how your system does in a variety of real world tasks. It puts up very solid numbers and especially in the Hard Drive Suite. Of course, if we compare 3D GPU based benchmarks, this unit quickly falls behind the previous gaming build log due to the GPU we have chosen. But, we chose this GPU for silence, not pure performance. So, if you are into quiet computing, a GPU selection like this may be a good tradeoff for you if you aren't going to be running Crysis at full settings. So, what we have here is an extremely quiet PC that is about as close to silent as you can come. This level of performance coupled with the lack of noise is a testament to what can be done with a bit of careful component selection and a bit tweaking and tuning. We shot a short piece of video to illustrate just how quiet this system is:
The Hydro Series™ H100 is the new top of the line all enclosed water cooling CPU coolers from Corsair. The H100 is similar to other Hydro Series CPU coolers from Corsair with a few exceptions, the main one being that the H100 uses a longer 240mm radiator. Luckily all of Corsairs PC cases will support the H100 and this blog will serve to illustrate the process. We will be installing it in our Obsidian Series™ 650D mid-tower case. First, it’s a good idea to lay out your components and make sure you have everything you will need for your particular CPU socket. The H100 supports the following CPU sockets right out of the box: Intel: LGA, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366 2011 AMD: AM2, AM3 In this build we will be using an EVGA P55 motherboard which uses the 1156 socket. The H100 comes out of the box with the Intel bracket already attached, so we are ready to move on to the next step. If you are mounting the H100 on an AMD socket, you will want to unscrew the Intel bracket that is already mounted to the cooling unit, and then screw in the AMD bracket. There are 4 screws, 2 on each side which are outlined in the picture below. The backplate on the H100 is adjustable and can be configured for any of the supported socket types. Just slide the pins on the bracket so that they align with the holes on the motherboard and then use the double-sided mounting bolts to secure it into place. With the 650D’s CPU backplate cutout, you can apply the bracket without having to remove the motherboard from the case. The mounting bolts serve two purposes, one is to secure the backplate to the motherboard, the other is to give you a mounting point for your CPU cooling unit and bracket. In the picture below you will see two out of four of the mounting bolts are already installed and circled in yellow. Now that the backplate is secure, we will mount the radiator. It will be easier to mount the radiator first, and then the CPU cooling unit, rather than the other way around. In the Obsidian Series 650D there is a large mounting area for the H100 in the top of the case. First we will need to remove the 200mm exhaust fan which comes installed in the top of the case. In the 650D, it may be easier to install he fans on the radiator before installing the radiator inside the case, thats the way that I have done it. Once the fans are mounted, hold the radiator up to the top of the case and align the mounting holes. You will then use the 8x 10mm screws to secure the radiator and fans to the roof of the case. The correct order for screwing in the radiator screws is Screw > Washer > Case > Radiator. Every Corsair fan will show you both the direction of airflow and the direction which the fan blades will spin. Look closely on the sides of the fan for two arrows pointing in these directions. The fan direction with the H100 is optional, and dependent on how many exhaust fans you already have, the key is to have a good balance of intake versus exhaust. In most configurations with the H100 we would recommend using the fans as exhaust, which we will be doing with the 650D. Once the radiator, fans and backplate are mounted, it is time to mount the CPU cooling unit. Simply line up the pins with the holes on the CPU bracket and tighten it down with the supplied thumb screws. The H100 comes with thermal material already applied to the CPU cooling unit. When you are ready to mount the CPU cooling unit, remove the plastic shielding that covers the thermal material and use the 4x thumbscrews to secure it to the mounting bolts that we used to secure the backplate earlier. Now that the unit is mounted, we will want to plug in power cables for both fans and the pump. The H100 has an integrated 4-fan hub which is where you will want to plug in your H100 fans. This is outlined in yellow in the picture below. Plugging the fans directly into the integrated 4-fan hub allows you to select from 3 different fan speed profiles which control fan RPM based on the coolant temperature within the H100. The 3 profiles are Quiet, Balanced, and Performance, and are indicated by the LED display on the H100, you can see a chart showing the relationship between fan speed and coolant temperature for each profile in the picture below. The final step is to plug in the power cable for the pump. The power cable for the pump has two connectors, one will plug directly into your PSUs 4-pin peripheral cable, and the other will plug directly into your motherboards CPU 4-pin fan header. The H100 is powered by the 4-pin peripheral cable, while the 3-pin fan header sends pump RPM information to your motherboards BIOS. Now the Hydro Series H100 is completely installed and there is still plenty of room to fill up all the motherboards DIMM slots with some of our tallest Vengeance memory, which measures 52mm in height.
The Hydro Series™ H100 is the new top of the line all enclosed water cooling CPU cooler from Corsair. The H100 is similar to other Hydro Series CPU coolers from Corsair with a few exceptions, the main one being that the H100 uses a longer 240mm radiator. In order to install the H100 in your case, you will need to have room for a 240mm radiator. This guide will serve to illustrate the general installation instructions which can be followed with any case. If you have one of Corsair's PC cases, you can find a specific guide for your case in the links below. Obsidian Series 800D Graphite Series 600T First, it’s a good idea to lay out your components and make sure you have everything you will need for your particular CPU socket. The H100 supports the following CPU sockets right out of the box: Intel: LGA, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366 2011 AMD: AM2, AM3 In this build we will be using an EVGA P55 motherboard which uses the 1156 socket. The H100 comes out of the box with the Intel bracket already attached, so we are ready to move on to the next step. If you are mounting the H100 on an AMD socket, you will want to unscrew the Intel bracket that is already mounted to the cooling unit, and then screw in the AMD bracket. There are 4 screws, 2 on each side which are outlined in the picture below. The backplate on the H100 is adjustable and can be configured for any of the supported socket types. Just slide the pins on the bracket so that they align with the holes on the motherboard and then use the double-sided mounting bolts to secure it into place. If your case does not have a CPU backplate cutout, you will likely need to remove the motherboard from your case in order to mount the H100 backplate. Corsair cases have this cutout and do not require the removal of the motherboard. The mounting bolts serve two purposes, one is to secure the backplate to the motherboard, the other is to give you a mounting point for your CPU cooling unit and bracket. In the picture below you will see two out of four of the mounting bolts are already installed and circled in yellow. Now that the backplate is secure, we will mount the radiator. It will be easier to mount the radiator first, and then the CPU cooling unit, rather than the other way around. Most cases that support a 240mm radiator, will support it in the top of the case. in some cases you may need to remove some of the included fans, in order to make room for the H100 and 2x 120mm fans. Every Corsair fan will show you both the direction of airflow and the direction which the fan blades will spin. Look closely on the sides of the fan for two arrows pointing in these directions. The fan direction with the H100 is optional, and dependent on how many exhaust fans you already have. The key is to have a good balance of intake versus exhaust. In most configurations with the H100 we would recommend using the fans as exhaust. Once the radiator, fans and backplate are mounted, it is time to mount the CPU cooling unit. Simply line up the pins with the holes on the CPU bracket and tighten it down with the supplied thumb screws. The H100 comes with thermal material already applied to the CPU cooling unit. When you are ready to mount the CPU cooling unit, remove the plastic shielding that covers the thermal material and use the 4x thumbscrews to secure it to the mounting bolts that we used to secure the backplate earlier. Now that the unit is mounted, we will want to plug in power cables for both fans and the pump. The H100 has an integrated 4-fan hub which is where you will want to plug in your H100 fans. This is outlined in yellow in the picture below. Plugging the fans directly into the integrated 4-fan hub allows you to select from 3 different fan speed profiles which control fan RPM based on the coolant temperature within the H100. The 3 profiles are Quiet, Balanced, and Performance, and are indicated by the LED display on the H100, you can see a chart showing the relationship between fan speed and coolant temperature for each profile in the picture below. The final step is to plug in the power cable for the pump. The power cable for the pump has two connectors, one will plug directly into your PSUs 4-pin peripheral cable, and the other will plug directly into your motherboards CPU 4-pin fan header. The H100 is powered by the 4-pin peripheral cable, while the 3-pin fan header sends pump RPM information to your motherboards BIOS. Now the Hydro Series H100 is completely installed and there is still plenty of room to fill up all the motherboards DIMM slots with some of our tallest Vengeance memory, which measures 52mm in height. <br>
The Hydro Series™ H100 is the new top of the line all enclosed water cooling CPU cooler from Corsair. The H100 is similar to other Hydro Series CPU coolers from Corsair with a few exceptions, the main one being that the H100 uses a longer 240mm radiator. Luckily all of Corsairs PC cases will support the H100 and this blog will serve to illustrate the process. Here we will be installing it in our Graphite Series™ 600T mid-tower case. First, it’s a good idea to lay out your components and make sure you have everything you will need for your particular CPU socket. The H100 supports the following CPU sockets right out of the box: Intel: LGA, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366 2011 AMD: AM2, AM3 In this build we will be using an EVGA P55 motherboard which uses the 1156 socket. The H100 comes out of the box with the Intel bracket already attached, so we are ready to move on to the next step. If you are mounting the H100 on an AMD socket, you will want to unscrew the Intel bracket that is already mounted to the cooling unit, and then screw in the AMD bracket. There are 4 screws, 2 on each side which are outlined in the picture below. The backplate on the H100 is adjustable and can be configured for any of the supported socket types. Just slide the pins on the bracket so that they align with the holes on the motherboard and then use the double-sided mounting bolts to secure it into place. With the 600T’s CPU backplate cutout, you can apply the bracket without having to remove the motherboard from the case. The mounting bolts serve two purposes, one is to secure the backplate to the motherboard, the other is to give you a mounting point for your CPU cooling unit and bracket. In the picture below you will see two out of four of the mounting bolts are already installed and circled in yellow. Now that the backplate is secure, we will mount the radiator. It will be easier to mount the radiator first, and then the CPU cooling unit, rather than the other way around. In the Graphite Series 600T there is a large mounting area for the H100 in the top of the case. In order to make room for the radiator and fans you will need to remove the 200mm exhaust fan which comes mounted in the top of the 600T. First remove the top cover to expose the 4x fan screws, and then remove them. Leave the cover off, because this will be where we will be mounting the 2x 120mm fans for the H100. The fans will go in the upper compartment, underneath the removable top cover. You will find 2x 120mm fan mounting locations where the fans will mount to. Every Corsair fan will show you both the direction of airflow and the direction which the fan blades will spin. Look closely on the sides of the fan for two arrows pointing in these directions. The fan direction with the H100 is optional, and dependent on how many exhaust fans you already have. The key is to have a good balance of intake versus exhaust. In most configurations with the H100 we would recommend using the fans as exhaust, which we will be doing with the 600T. The rear exhaust fan that is already mounted in the 600T will remain as an exhaust. You will want to hold the radiator up against the top of the case, and thread the screws through the fan, through the case and into the radiator. Screw > Fan > Case > Radiator. It's easiest to thread in two screws by hand in order to tack the radiator in place, and then you can tighten them up and finish screwing in the rest of the screws with a screwdriver. Once the radiator, fans and backplate are mounted, it is time to mount the CPU cooling unit. Simply line up the pins with the holes on the CPU bracket and tighten it down with the supplied thumb screws. The H100 comes with thermal material already applied to the CPU cooling unit. When you are ready to mount the CPU cooling unit, remove the plastic shielding that covers the thermal material and use the 4x thumbscrews to secure it to the mounting bolts that we used to secure the backplate earlier. Now that the unit is mounted, we will want to plug in power cables for both fans and the pump. The H100 has an integrated 4-fan hub which is where you will want to plug in your H100 fans. This is outlined in yellow in the picture below. Plugging the fans directly into the integrated 4-fan hub allows you to select from 3 different fan speed profiles which control fan RPM based on the coolant temperature within the H100. The 3 profiles are Quiet, Balanced, and Performance, and are indicated by the LED display on the H100, you can see a chart showing the relationship between fan speed and coolant temperature for each profile in the picture below. The final step is to plug in the power cable for the pump. The power cable for the pump has two connectors, one will plug directly into your PSUs 4-pin peripheral cable, and the other will plug directly into your motherboards CPU 4-pin fan header. The H100 is powered by the 4-pin peripheral cable, while the 3-pin fan header sends pump RPM information to your motherboards BIOS. Now the Hydro Series H100 is completely installed and there is still plenty of room to fill up all the motherboards DIMM slots with some of our tallest Vengeance memory, which measures 52mm in height.
The Hydro Series™ H100 is the new top of the line all enclosed water cooling CPU coolers from Corsair. The H100 is similar to other Hydro Series CPU coolers from Corsair with a few exceptions, the main one being that the H100 uses a longer 240mm radiator. Luckily all of Corsairs PC cases will support the H100 and this blog will serve to illustrate the process. We will be installing it in our Obsidian Series™ 800D full-tower case. First, it’s a good idea to lay out your components and make sure you have everything you will need for your particular CPU socket. The H100 supports the following CPU sockets right out of the box: Intel: LGA, 775, 1155, 1156, 1366 2011 AMD: AM2, AM3 In this build we will be using an EVGA P55 motherboard which uses the 1156 socket. The H100 comes out of the box with the Intel bracket already attached, so we are ready to move on to the next step. If you are mounting the H100 on an AMD socket, you will want to unscrew the Intel bracket that is already mounted to the cooling unit, and then screw in the AMD bracket. There are 4 screws, 2 on each side which are outlined in the picture below. The backplate on the H100 is adjustable and can be configured for any of the supported socket types. Just slide the pins on the bracket so that they align with the holes on the motherboard and then use the double-sided mounting bolts to secure it into place. With the 800D’s CPU backplate cutout, you can apply the bracket without having to remove the motherboard from the case. The mounting bolts serve two purposes, one is to secure the backplate to the motherboard, the other is to give you a mounting point for your CPU cooling unit and bracket. In the picture below you will see two out of four of the mounting bolts are already installed and circled in yellow. Now that the backplate is secure, we will mount the radiator. It will be easier to mount the radiator first, and then the CPU cooling unit, rather than the other way around. In the Obsidian Series 800D there is a large mounting area for the H100 in the top of the case. Find your 8x 10mm screws (the shorter ones) and washers and get them ready to screw into the radiator. The following picture shows me holding the radiator in place (outlined in yellow), getting ready to mount it with the 8x 10mm screws. The correct order for screwing in the radiator screws is Screw > Washer > Case > Radiator. Once you finish securing the radiator in place, we will mount both fans on the radiator. Every Corsair fan will show you both the direction of airflow and the direction which the fan blades will spin. Look closely on the sides of the fan for two arrows pointing in these directions. The fan direction with the H100 is optional, and dependent on how many exhaust fans you already have, the key is to have a good balance of intake versus exhaust. In most configurations with the H100 we would recommend using the fans as exhaust, which we will be doing with the 800D. When mounting the fans I find that it is easiest to thread 2 screws in by hand in a diagonal pattern, which will align the fan with the holes in the radiator. Once the fan is pinned loosely to the radiator, screw it in the rest of the way and then add your two remaining screws. Repeat the process with the second fan. Once the radiator, fans and backplate are mounted, it is time to mount the CPU cooling unit. Simply line up the pins with the holes on the CPU bracket and tighten it down with the supplied thumb screws. The H100 comes with thermal material already applied to the CPU cooling unit. When you are ready to mount the CPU cooling unit, remove the plastic shielding that covers the thermal material and use the 4x thumbscrews to secure it to the mounting bolts that we used to secure the backplate earlier. Now that the unit is mounted, we will want to plug in power cables for both fans and the pump. The H100 has an integrated 4-fan hub which is where you will want to plug in your H100 fans. This is outlined in yellow in the picture below. Plugging the fans directly into the integrated 4-fan hub allows you to select from 3 different fan speed profiles which control fan RPM based on the coolant temperature within the H100. The 3 profiles are Quiet, Balanced, and Performance, and are indicated by the LED display on the H100, you can see a chart showing the relationship between fan speed and coolant temperature for each profile in the picture below. The final step is to plug in the power cable for the pump. The power cable for the pump has two connectors, one will plug directly into your PSUs 4-pin peripheral cable, and the other will plug directly into your motherboards CPU 4-pin fan header. The H100 is powered by the 4-pin peripheral cable, while the 3-pin fan header sends pump RPM information to your motherboards BIOS. Now the Hydro Series H100 is completely installed and there is still plenty of room to fill up all the motherboards DIMM slots with some of our tallest Vengeance memory, which measures 52mm in height.
In tech support, one of the most common questions we get is “How can I tell if my memory is bad?” Many OS errors that you experience may mention something about your memory or DRAM having a problem — however these errors are not always cuased by faulty memory. In many cases these errors can be generated by your other components such as the motherboard or CPU, or in some cases they can even be a software related issue. The best way to find out if the errors are generated by your memory is to test your memory with Memtest86. In this blog post we will link to a memory testing presentation which will cover all the basics of testing your systems memory. There are many memory testing utilities available out there, but today we'lll focus on Memtest86 which is a free download from www.memtest.org. The great thing about Memtest86 is that as long as you can get into your BIOS, you will be able to test the memory. Most software based memory testing utilities which run in Microsoft® Windows® (while better than nothing) are inferior to Memtest86 because they are not able to test all the memory. This is because some of the memory is being used by your operating system and any other programs that are already loaded when you have MS Windows running. Memtest86’s strength comes from its ability to run outside of the operating system, and because of this, it is able to give you the most consistent and accurate results. Click the link below to view the Memtest86 screencast. <br>How to test your memory with Memtest86
Overclockers Club, Force Series™ 3 SSD Review — "Having tested this drive, it is without doubt that an SSD can potentially give your computer a viable performance boost. In case you are still skeptical, let me put it this way – the upgrade in speed that you get from installing an SSD, like the Corsair Force GT, is like the 100 horsepower boost you'd get from adding a 100 shot nitrous system into your car!" /corsairmedia/sys_master/productcontent/blog_corsair-weekly-review-round-up-force-series-gt-and-more-edition-Content-2.png.pagespeed.ic.hOFtobWohT.pngTweakTown, Force Series™ GT 3 SSD Review — "In this review we saw the latest firmware revision from SandForce and it allowed the Corsair Force GT to outperform every other drive in our charts. The Force GT is wicked fast and comes very close to reaching the performance limitations of SATA III (585MB/s) today. In ATTO we hit 560MB/s which is significant since that means this drive will still look good when next year's SSDs ship. There isn't really a lot of room to grow until SATA IV which hasn't even been announced, or for that matter publicly talked about." Hexus, Force Series™ GT SSD Review in a SSD Round-Up — "Outfitted with 25nm synchronous NAND, the Force GT can struggle to keep up with rival solutions armed with Toshiba's premium Toggle Mode NAND, but the drive's ability is nonetheless impressive and it's comfortably quicker than the Force Series 3 in almost all of our benchmarks. Put two together in RAID and the results can be staggering." NeoSeeker, Hydro Series™ H80 CPU Cooler Review — "Overall, the Corsair H80 is a hassle free, all-in-one solution that offers performance superior to virtually all other cooler on the market. So, if you are looking for the best and don't mind paying a premium, then the H80 is the perfect choice." /corsairmedia/sys_master/productcontent/blog_corsair-weekly-review-round-up-force-series-gt-and-more-edition-Content-5.png.pagespeed.ic.LDxRnShJJ_.pngTweakTown, Professional Series™ HX1050 PSU Review in a SSD Round-Up — "Corsair also took a huge leap forward with the increased efficiency seen in the HX1050 and the extra two years of warranty. Corsair adds a bit more to sweeten the deal by offering the HX1050 for $219 which is the same price as the older and much less efficient HX1000." Legit Reviews video review of the Corsair AirFlow Pro™:
The AirFlow Pro™ Dynamic Temperature and Activity Display for Dominator Memory is a uniquely designed accessory that allows you to see your memory's activity and temperature simultaneously via LED meters. I've always wanted to install one with my Dominator® with DHX Pro Connector and Airflow II Fan &mdash 12GB Triple Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CMP12GX3M3A1600C9), but with the mesh side panel installed on my Graphite Series 600T mid-tower case the Airflow PRO is being concealed inside my case and is difficult to see. With the considerable“Bling” factor of the AirFlow Pro you don’t want that to be hidden. So I decided that I would modify the AirFlow Pro to place it on the front panel of the 600T, so I can see the it in all it's glory on front of my case. First step of modifying the AirFlow Pro was figuring out the tools and materials I needed to extend cables already provided to the length required: Expandable Sleeving Solder Standard wire (ST26-25BK) Soldering Iron AirFlow Pro Heat Shrink Tubing I cut the standard wire to desired length, and soldered the existing AirFlow Pro connecters to extend the length of wire. Once they were soldered, I used heat shrink tubing where I've soldered the wires together to insure that any exposed wires do not touch, and sleeved the cables to give it a clean look. I ensudred that I wired my cables correctly by testing each one, and started to take apart the Airflow Pro as I only need the PCB board and not the plastic covering. Located on the back of the Airflow Pro, where the PCB is exposed, are four small screws, which allowed me to remove the plastic covering. Once that was complete, I also modified the front case panel by removing the dust filter and cutting away the plastic which covered the middle area. I was finally ready to place the Airflow Pro in the desired location on the 600T front panel. Using double sided tape, I placed it on the inside of the front panel with the LED’s facing out. I connected the extended cables to the AirFlow Pro to the Dominator memory modules and ensured all connections, including the power connection, were properly wired and hidden. Once everything was installed I turned on my machine and enjoyed my new modified AirFlow Pro! Check out the video below to see my mod in action:
