H60 screw size

Oh i meant the screws for the backplate not the rad fans. thx anyway

If you mean the standoff/thumbscrew thread, I believe these are all M3 as that's what the Corsair documentation says but it's possible they are instead an close imperial thread.

great news , thanks. I bought a generic 775 backplate and its got 3mm screw holes which from what i read is m3.

Ah yes, indeed. Another LGA775 Hydro user eh? :D: I just finished putting an H105 on 775, as detailed in the thread on here...

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=881429#post881429

I'm guessing you have the 2013 H60, which doesn't have the capability to install on 775? In that case yeah I think all you will need is the backplate as I think the top plate on the CoolIt models has enough mounting provision inwards to screw into a 775-spacing mount--it's just the backplate that is required. Otherwise you may need to drill the top plate/bracket a little.

You should make sure the backplate has the same screw collar length as the original backplate, for best results. It probably won't matter if the collars are shorter as the standoffs will bottom out (but might be less stable) but if they are longer it may prevent them from going in far enough. I think with the majority of backplates you'll be fine though.

Hey, great to hear im not the only one out there trying to figure this out. Yes i bought the h60 thats not compatible thinking it was as the compatible version is still being advertised on the corsair site (all that info is very unclear) .I was very close to drilling the back plate but then i noticed that the top bracket's holes line up just fine (really odd they wouldnt make the bottom plate line up.. So easy to do and wouldn't have sacrificed anything design wise).So then i realized i could easily find a back plate that fits and bought it . So as you say i might have a screw incompatibility issue but like your hack ill just need to take a quick trip to homedepot.

Do you suggest i install it with the motherboard out to see if its clearing the caps ? Is it easy to tell if its not sitting flush on the chip?

Thanks for your insight!

Hey, great to hear im not the only one out there trying to figure this out. Yes i bought the h60 thats not compatible thinking it was as the compatible version is still being advertised on the corsair site (all that info is very unclear) .I was very close to drilling the back plate but then i noticed that the top bracket's holes line up just fine (really odd they wouldnt make the bottom plate line up.. So easy to do and wouldn't have sacrificed anything design wise).So then i realized i could easily find a back plate that fits and bought it . So as you say i might have a screw incompatibility issue but like your hack ill just need to take a quick trip to homedepot.

 

Do you suggest i install it with the motherboard out to see if its clearing the caps ? Is it easy to tell if its not sitting flush on the chip?

 

Thanks for your insight!

Yeah I don't get it either. All these coolers (both Asetek and CoolIt) dropped LGA775 support; but it's so easy to retain it. Very puzzling.

Anyway you should be okay if you have the correct standoffs (same thread, both sides, equal length) and they go to the right distance into your backplate.

The CoolIt blocks (your H60 2013 is OEM'd by CoolIT btw) are a little harder to see around as they're basically just big squares, lol. So yeah you may want to test it out on a bench first so you can see all the way around it. If you see it hitting the caps (even the smallest bit), try rotating the block to a different orientation as that will probably clear them, though 775 is a little tougher because the caps can be further in (perhaps one of the reasons these companies removed support for it); hopefully it works out. What board are you installing on anyway, if you don't mind saying?

Yeah I don't get it either. All these coolers (both Asetek and CoolIt) dropped LGA775 support; but it's so easy to retain it. Very puzzling.

 

Anyway you should be okay if you have the correct standoffs (same thread, both sides, equal length) and they go to the right distance into your backplate.

 

The CoolIt blocks (your H60 2013 is OEM'd by CoolIT btw) are a little harder to see around as they're basically just big squares, lol. So yeah you may want to test it out on a bench first so you can see all the way around it. If you see it hitting the caps (even the smallest bit), try rotating the block to a different orientation as that will probably clear them, though 775 is a little tougher because the caps can be further in (perhaps one of the reasons these companies removed support for it); hopefully it works out. What board are you installing on anyway, if you don't mind saying?

I was wondering what all this "coolit" talk was about , nice info.

I installed everything the other day in a semi new build and the h60 was the last part to add. Thats when i realized the plates wouldn't line up. I was hoping i didn't have to take the board out again lol.. Im installing a Q9550 on a GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3L .I kinda did a dry run to see if it would clear the caps and to seems to but only if its rotated like you say.

Do you think installing it anyway but upright would effect performance though?

I was wondering what all this "coolit" talk was about , nice info.

Haha yeah basically Corsair uses two OEMs for the Hydro series. Some are CoolIt and some are Asetek. The CoolIt blocks are all square, the Asetek are round with the "teeth" on the bottom for the traditional Asetek retention ring. The top covers of the newer models are all square though so the way to tell is to look at the bottom of the cold plate instead of the top--square = CoolIt, round = Asetek.

I installed everything the other day in a semi new build and the h60 was the last part to add. Thats when i realized the plates wouldn't line up. I was hoping i didn't have to take the board out again lol.. Im installing a Q9550 on a GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3L .I kinda did a dry run to see if it would clear the caps and to seems to but only if its rotated like you say.

Do you think installing it anyway but upright would effect performance though?

No it's fine whichever way you install it really. However you do want to make sure you're orienting it such that you're not over-twisting, bending, or over-stretching the hoses as you definitely don't want a hose failure on a liquid cooler! This may also determine which way you orient the radiator as a result. The preferred way to mount the rad is so the hoses are at the bottom--this way any air goes to the top of the rad. However it's not that big a deal if it can't be mounted that way.

The most important thing is to get the block properly installed on the CPU. As long as you have that and no over-twisting/pulling/bending of the hoses, you should be fine.

Q9550 seems pretty popular--out of all the people I've seen talking about putting a Hydro on 775, we're all using Q9550s! (Well mine is actually an X3360 but it's the same processor.) What do you have yours clocked at/what are you planning on clocking it at? Mine is at 3.6Ghz (424x8.5), vCore is at 1.25650 in BIOS but actually comes up as 1.20ish in Windows and pulls down to 1.18 under load.

These things are beasts compared to more modern CPUs lol. At idle this thing draws about the same power as my i7-860 (at basically the same clock and similar voltage) does at 100% load! I think I can take the C2Q higher but I never tried due to inadequate cooling and not wanting to go too high on vCore. However I think now (with the H105) I might try going higher but it's not really that necessary given the low-use of this particular machine.

Ok so i guess its best to pull out the mobo to make sure the cooler is seated properly eh?

I actually first bought the hydro for my QX6700 but i found a better mobo / cpu deal (used) Q9550 with a GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3L for 99$ talked down to 70$.

I also read that you can oc the 9550 much more than the 6700 so im going to do that.

Ive read I can push this chip to 4.2 ghz but i have the feeling thats gonna be a bit much . Im going to try and get it up there though , going to be alot of trial and error (also being my first time overclocking with out an unlocked multiplier).

I like the looks of your temperatures though, looks promising !

Im reading that its quite the beast too, power consumption isnt really much of a concern though lol.

So I have successfully installed the h60 v2 on a q9550 socket 775 with a generic backplate. The included corsair stand off screws fit perfectly in a 3mm hole.How tight do you screw the thumb bolts ?

100% load temps go to 43c on average with stock clocks. time to OC!

So I have successfully installed the h60 v2 on a q9550 socket 775 with a generic backplate. The included corsair stand off screws fit perfectly in a 3mm hole.How tight do you screw the thumb bolts ?

100% load temps go to 43c on average with stock clocks. time to OC!

Presuming the standoffs end up at the same height they would be when screwed into the stock bracket (they most likely are), you tighten the thumbscrews fully (until they bottom out against the plate/standoff). The mount is designed so you can't overtighten ;) Make sure you tighten in a sequence going diagonally instead of all at once. I typically try to tighten two [diagonally] at once, tighten the other two, and then go back and forth between sets until fully tightened.

If at 100% load you're getting just 43C, I imagine you are already there in tightness. What are you loading with? You should use something that uses Linpack (like LinX, IBT, Intel XTU, or OCCT in Linpack mode) to get a worst-case/highest temps scenario. Linpack tends to cause higher temps than something like Prime95, or other CPU stress tests.

Yeah i used my drum tunning technique to tighten the bolts. I thought they were tight enough too. I used cpuz's stress test to load the cpu, not enough?

Ha no not really...that's not much of a stress test.

For example on the machine I'm using right now I just tried this out...

Machine spec:

i5-760 @ 3.8Ghz @ 1.12V at full clock (drops as low as 1.10xV under heavy load--really good chip, I know right? And I got this one for free--original owner never even OC'd it! :) )

8GB @ DDR3-1810

Cooler on this one is a 120mm x 27mm AIO/CLC (not a Corsair, but similar in performance to an H55).

With the CPU-Z "stress test" after several mins, max temp I'm seeing is 53C on the hottest core. Not really breaking a sweat here.

With LinX, in less than 30s that same core is at 60C. That's the difference between a Linpack / FPU bench and well one that isn't that, lol.

So yeah for worst-case temps, definitely use an FPU stress test, like a Linpack-based utility. Again, I recommend LinX as it's a modern interface and is simple and not bloated--doesn't have a lot of extra fluff (though granted stuff like OCCT is better if you want graphs of your voltages and temps after the benchmark finishes or crashes).