Discollama Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Does the 105 have enough superior top end performance to the H100i? I just got my H100i in the mail today only to discover that it's still having serious issues with Win 8.x, so I'm debating submitting an RMA request to exchange it with the H105. I'm just not sure if it'll be worth it though. I know that the H105 has a thicker radiator, but is the fin density higher? Is there a real performance boost from the H100i? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LangZone Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 It is thicker so it will have better performance. All online reviews also seem to back this. If you have clearance for it in your case I'd say go for the H105 or even H110 if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Doesn't matter if fins are thicker. Even if performance was identical I'd go h105. Scroll through the cooler section n see how many h105 issues there are. Then look for h100i lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 Do you think that I would have enough space in my carbide air 540 for a push/pull configuration with a h105 mounted on the front of the case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LangZone Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Not sure about the front but it does in the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Thanks Lang. Hey hooded, did you ever benchmark the 105 in a push/pull? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Nah never ran it in push/pull. These aio units push/pull doesn't make much diff at all. 1-2°C max. I've tested it on h100/h100i/h60. The rad on h105 is almost identical to the H100i it just has a bigger housing and better pump in my opinion. The bigger housing may help slightly in a push/pull configuration. Allowing a slight space for air to be pushed off the fins and then pulled. Instead of trying to stuff air through fins that are a mm or so away. Least that's what it seams like to me. Personally I'd never run intake in the front setup because it'll heat up everything else in your case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 So, I was hoping to run a push/pull with these orange and black fans (sorry, I'm new here, don't want to get in trouble for discussing other brands) because they're super quiet, but they have about half the static pressure of the stock H100i/H105 fans (2.2 mm/H2O vs 4), and since the fans are rated at 18 dBA, I would think that four of them would probably be a bit quieter than the stock fans that run over 37 dBA. But one final question before I make up my mind on RMAing the H100i for the H105: If i were to hook up the fans to points on my mobo, would the mobo read the CPU temps and automatically boost the fan speeds, or will I need a fan controller or fan controller software to accomplish this, will Asus' software that comes bundled with my mobo be good enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Mobo cpu fan headers work off cpu temp yes. Works really well on asus boards you can even do a custom speed setup in bios. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Awesome! Thanks hooded and lang! I really appreciate all of your advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 When doing your fan comparisons, keep in mind those modified SP120's specifications are for 2700 RPM. No one can run that speed and be happy. Without a P-Q curve, you'll need to guestimate an equivalent static pressure number. My guess is the fans in question will have a very similar number at the 1500 RPM of your orange and black number. In my experience, most fans come out fairly close with temps and acoustic quality becomes the long term love or hate factor. Unfortunately, those Cougars are one of the few I don't have first hand experience with, but I hear positive things from other people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Two reasons are driving me away from the stock fans. First is the fact that my Air 540 will be sitting on my desk right next to me. Second is that my desk is not far from the TV and I don't want to have the TV compete with my fans to be heard. 37 dBA isn't that loud, but our walls are made out of concrete and the way that the stair case is designed makes it function like a waveguide amplifying and funneling the noise between floors. Because of this, I can easily hear when my wife has left her computer on upstairs, and it's probably not much louder than the H100i/105's fans at full blast. I'm no physicist, but I think that the black and orange fans in a push/pull config should help. Even doing a lopsided push/pull with them and the stock fans might be enough to reduce the SP120L's speeds enough to make the noise tolerable. I've read mixed reviews about doing this, so my initial plan will be to install the rad with the lopsided push/pull with the PSU paper clip test with some kind of smoke (not sure if I'll try incense, cigar, or what) just to see if it generates excessive turbulence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsair Employee Corsair Dustin Posted December 17, 2014 Corsair Employee Share Posted December 17, 2014 You should be able to do push-pull in the front of the case with the H105 provided your graphics cards aren't too long. The Air 540 is also designed for you to remove the dust filter in the front and mount fans on the outside, under the grate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 You should be able to do push-pull in the front of the case with the H105 provided your graphics cards aren't too long. The Air 540 is also designed for you to remove the dust filter in the front and mount fans on the outside, under the grate. is there a pic available of the front filter?,,I don't recall seeing one when I got my 540. of course the way its setup I likely couldn't use it tho... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Good point Dustin about the graphics card. The one I have is extremely long. Going off of the stats from the 540 and the numbers from Gigabyte's website I'll only have 8mm to play with. I may not be able to do a push/pull with either the H100i or the H105 because I wont have room due to the card, and the 8 pin connector at the very top of my Asus X99-A will likely be in the way of the radiator itself. Ugh. This is frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Wytnyt the filter is magnetic and on the outside of the case but under the front mesh. Piece u remove 2 small top screws and pull up to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 I wouldn't run it in front of case anyways. Will heat everything else up and could cause air to get stuck in the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 I'm not sure about the air in the pump issue, honestly, this is the first time I've even heard of it, but I do know that from what I've read, the rad as an intake can lower CPU temps over 2 degrees celsius while it only boosted GPU temps by 2 degrees. On top of that, the guy that was doing the testing was using a case that doesn't have nearly the air flow of the 540. Three AF140L's should be able to help mitigate the minimal boost in GPU temps without much of a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crk Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 I got the same setup as you. - Corsair 540 Carbide Air - Corsair H100i - Windows 8.1 x64 Of course the Corsair Link software doesn´t work. I think you propably have already checked my thread. The english speaking guys here think that my isue isn´t a reason for replacing the unit by another model. I explained why I think different about that but until now I haven´t heared anything anymore. I mean the main reason for buying the H100i is the possibility to control the unit via a nice piece of software. If this doesn´t work on different systems it´s pointless. I also want to get my H100i replaced by a H105 or a H110 (I would pay for the higher price). And even if you check the comments for the different software version you won´t find an info about those compatiblity issues. If you have the possibility I would suggest to get it replaced by your vendor. Unfortunately I don´t have that possibility because I bought it in a local it shop so I hope for corsair now :(. I mean from my point of view there are 2 main reasons for buying stuff from Corsair or other big brands. 1. top products 2. top support So the first point is already killed in my case. Lets see if I buy my products from Corsair for the right reasons ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 I agree with you crk, I went with the H100i for the software, which many review sites doing more recent testing said was very good and mature. From user reviews on different websites, the complaints stated compatability issues with only Win 8 (as opposed to 8.1), and they were older. So, I figured that some combination of software fixes and Win 8.1 might have corrected the issues that people were having. Then I come here and I find out that that is completely false. But another issue that I'm running into is that without Express Replacement, I'm without a computer until the new device arrives, but with Express Replacement, I have to get the H100i back to them within 10 days of them sending me the replacement. Now, I live overseas and use APO/FPO/DPO mailing addresses. These systems can take over a month to get mail here as I'm in a fairly remote location. On top of that, it usually takes about two weeks for mail leaving here to get to the destination in the US (and I know all of this because I run the post office at my post). So, let's say a best case scenario: Corsair mails me a replacement H105. I then have to immediately remove my H100i from my computer and ship it off. If I'm lucky I'll only have about three weeks of underlap. Worst case scenario: Corsair sends me the H105, I remove the H100i (I have no HSF backup, so no computer) and ship it out on the same day. It takes two weeks to arrive at Corsair, my CC gets charged and I have a five to six week underlap. Not cool. I've asked Corsair about giving me an expanded window, but I haven't heard back from them yet. I could go through Amazon, but then I'll be at an underlap of at least as long as above. Another option would be to order the H105 and wait for it to get here, then send the H100i back in, but then I have another $100 charge on my CC to deal with. Neither of those options is terribly appealing to have to deal with just because the software (and the entire point of the product) is about as functional as broken crutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 I don't know how you've never heard of air pockets in aio units lol. If there is any air in the unit. Which there always is a little bit the potential is it will rise to the highest point in the loop. Which if mounted in front could potentially be the pump. Which would of course cause issues. 2° lower temps will not even net you 100mhz higher overclock. That's like nothing at all.n not just gpu. Everything on motherboard. Hard drives. Every other part will run a bit hotter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 I've heard of air in pump, just not using the rad as an intake causing issues with it, wouldn't the hottest part of the loop always be the cpu with these types of coolers though? I was assuming that the 2 degree temp increase would be indicative of other parts on the mobo (and most of the arguments against talk about gpu temps) but that with the greater air flow of the 540 that that shouldn't be an issue when these measurements are being taken in a case that is competitively choked. Let's not forget that air coolers blow hot air over the back half of the board, and that without great ventilation, it doesn't get expelled immediately, so it's not like hot air being blown around a case is anything new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOODedAssault Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Meh. Do what you wish. Just saying there are a few issues you could run into with that setup. N the way gpu's clock dynamically with temp change nowadays that 2°C hotter could make a big difference. Just my 2 cents been around here a long time n these are issues I've seen. Many have done it without issue tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Discollama Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 I definitely appreciate the advice, and honestly I don't think that I'll be able to run the intake setup anyway since I have so little wiggle room with my video card in the 540 case. If I were to try it I'd have to do a top intake with the front and rear fans setup as exhausts, and frankly I'm not sure if that's a good idea for the airflow of the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LangZone Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Just use the top for the rad as intake or exhaust (doesn't make much difference!), rear as exhaust, front as intake. Easy as pie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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