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  #1  
Old 11-24-2018, 08:27 AM
elric75 elric75 is offline
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Default H150i Pro RGB - Some questions

Hi there,

I purchased an H150i Pro RGB this morning and I have some questions

I had an Eisbaer 360 untill today, it died on me yesterday night so I bought the Corsair one. I

The temps looks ok but havent done anything heavy yet, but still they are not as good on idle as with my Eisbaer, i was around 35/38 and now it's more 40 min... I have a delided 8700k running at 4.9 Ghz

So.. my questions :

- , when the speed reaches 2000 i can hear a low humming which is annoying. Any fix for that?



-Is it worth it to replace fans and put something with more static pressure? I have some Silent wings 3 high speed which have 3.37 of static pressure, the corsair ML have ony 1.2. I also bought some Vardrar one but they are way too noisy..

Well if you have any tips for me to enjoy this WC in a better way, I'm all ears..

Thanks !

Last edited by elric75; 11-24-2018 at 09:05 AM.
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  #2  
Old 11-24-2018, 09:29 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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1) Idle temp is very much dependent on the room/case temp and the physical contact properties, which then puts the defining differences back on TIM and how well you apply it. Frankly this isn't something to bother chasing since 35 vs 36 is irrelevant and there is very little heat to dissipate, but I suspect once you take the pump off Quiet mode you may even up. Most of the "idle temp" differences you see in reviews are related to the fan and pump speeds used. They don't mean it to be a comparison of thermal conductivity.

2) Changing Fan and Pump Speeds - It is a little counter-intuitive. Instead of selecting the device (pump or fan) then telling it what speed to run, it works the opposite way. Go to the Performance Tab of the cooler as pictured above. Select the Quiet/Balanced/Extreme Preset on the left. It will turn yellow. Then click all the fans/pump on the right you want to run that speed. It will highlight yellow to let you know the curve has been applied. Pump speeds will be 1100 +-30 on Quiet, 2160 for Balanced, 2850 for Extreme. If you like Quiet for the desktop that's fine, but there is a performance penalty under load and for 1-2C at idle on similar hardware with the H115i PRO. 2160 is silent for me at desktop work, but will handle all loads. Since the pump is not dynamically adjustable (outside of switching profiles), I usually park it on Balanced and leave it. Extreme is usually audible at the desktop level, but for most users provides no extra cooling. Flow rate is not often the limiting factor on a short AIO loop. That said, the Quiet 1100 speed seems to lack a bit of pressure and does show some loss.

There is no reason you have to run the fans and pump on the same curve. The choices for pump speed are limited to the three presets above, but fans can be anything. Use the + symbol to create a new "cooling mode". You can rename it and this is your custom curve. You can experiment with the presets if you like, but there is no reason not to move onto your own curve once you get the hang of it. Everyone will have a different baseline coolant temp depending on room, case, layout, and hardware. You want your fans quiet at the baseline and running them at 1500 rpm won't make the coolant drop below the baseline. I would expect a typical coolant delta of +4-6C when you are under load, so the values are small. Be conservative with the fans. You won't get much back in return for high speeds. The surface area is doing most of the work.

3) Alternate fans - you can use any PWM fans you like, although the zero RPM mode will only work with the stock ML120-Quiet fans that came in the box. That said, a warning about your suggestion. First, the BQ SW3 high speed PWM does not have better static pressure than the ML-Quiet you are replacing. What it has is a higher RPM limit and that is always the largest factor in Static Pressure values since it the amount of negative pressure required to reduce a fan's speed to zero. I have a little 40x40 fan with a higher static pressure than the ML@1600 rpm, but that's because it runs 4400 rpm. It still only moves 9 cfm at 4000+. Not what you want as your radiator fans. Now, the BQ fans do move some air, but you will need to run them at those 2000 rpm speeds to realize any gain -- and that is still no guarantee. With a coolant delta of +4, would it be worth the 2000 rpm speeds to reduce CPU and coolant temps by 0.5C? Probably not. At like speeds the results are similar and in fact in the ML's favor. If you want to compare based on RPM, use the faster speed ML Pro 120mm that has a 2400 rpm limit to the SW3 HS 2200. It makes 4.2mm H20 at 2400 compared to the SW3 3.37. That is a measurable difference and the flatter blades of the ML were designed for focused flow or radiator duty. The SW3 is a mutli-purpose fan, but still lands on the side of quiet unrestricted air movement. Great case fans, not quite as much on a radiator. I have about 20-25 of them lying around and like them quite a bit, but I have already done this experiment (albeit a different radiator) and the results were not favorable in terms of performance. I would tell you to go ahead and try it anyway for the science of it, but there is an additional problem.

Corsair controllers seem to have a problem with BeQuiet PWM fans. There are some articles out there about erratic or uneven response from the BQ PWM fans and it apparently related to PWM signal stepping. Regardless of where the blame lies, we just had another batch of people report their SW3 HS were acting strange on the H150i and Commander Pro. The DC version works fine on my C-Pro, but that won't help on the PWM controller in H150i. I would let things ride for a bit before deciding if you want to make a fan change. You don't have a lot of watts to dump and I think you'll find you can get away with really low speeds. I run my 140mm ML and HD140 fans at 700-800 on the 280mm version with a 8700K@1.30v. My coolant delta is about +4C at those speeds and still tops out at +5-6C when at 100% load. It's just not worth the fuss to go chasing 1C in coolant temp when your end CPU temps are 55-60C peak.

Last edited by c-attack; 11-24-2018 at 09:34 AM.
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  #3  
Old 11-24-2018, 09:40 AM
elric75 elric75 is offline
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Thanks for all those detailed answers :)

I created a custom curve for fans and left the pump on balanced, i can hear a little ticking / humming but it's bearable;

I put the fan at 60% to 40C then rise to 100% at 50c. If i reach 50 it means i'm gaming with headphones on so I don't care.

I did kinda the same fan curve in bios for chassis fan.

The fans which comes with the Hi150 are at 1600RPM not 2200 though.

for the sensor should i put it on the chip or on the core 1?


Oh and btw, how does the zero RPM profile works? Is it good to use it or better to do a custom profile?.

Last edited by elric75; 11-24-2018 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 11-24-2018, 10:11 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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Correct, the fans that come with cooler limit at 1600 rpm, however the blade is the same as the 2400 rpm model, which means at 400-1600 rpm they have the same specs - better than the SW3 at the same speed. The only way to make the SW3 outperform them is to utilize the extra rpm and so you must run them at 1700-2100 (it won't make it to 2200 on the radiator). No fan is quiet at 2000 rpm, so it becomes a lot of noise for nominal gain. Now, if you just like those better and don't mind loses half a degree at normal levels, I would say go ahead and switch. However, that still leaves the controller problem. Try hooking them up to the splitter in free air and see if one responds before taking it down and mounting them.

"I put the fan at 60% to 40C then rise to 100% at 50c. If i reach 50 it means i'm gaming with headphones on so I don't care."

This perfect for coolant temp control. You should never ever make 50C. Even in the Summer when my room temp is in the upper 20s and case baseline 32C, I can't make it past 36-37C with this CPU. If you hit 40C, check things out. 50C means there is a problem and the full speed fan blast will audibly get your attention.

As above, definitely use the coolant temp (H150i Temp) for control. CPU heat is generated at the pins and then conducted out of the CPU through the cold plate. Voltage heat - less conducted heat. The fans and pump have no influence on this and you can see the actual result when first initiate that 100% test and you get the voltage temp thump. It's probably about +30C on your delid. Nothing you can do about that. The cooler is a heat removal system. Pick up the heat, dump it elsewhere. It can't help with the pin side, but will have a negative effect if you don't get rid of the it. The slow, building CPU heat is what the cooler tries to avoid. You can only reduce CPU temp by the same amount you can reduce coolant temp. So when your coolant delta is +4C, that represents the maximum possible reduction at any fan or pump settings. In reality, you can't have a zero coolant delta on an internal system, but it gives you a general idea. The best thing about 360mm cooler is you don't need to blast the fans. Take advantage.

I am a strong antagonist of the zero RPM system and I mean this in general scientific terms, not specifically the Corsair version. You may be more familiar with the concept on GPUs and it was a big selling feature on the Maxwell 900 series cards. Now at the desktop, it works nicely and you don't have to listen to the fans. However, if the limit is set too high, then you accumulate a large amount of heat before the fans kick in. Even when the fans do, you can't simply wipe it all away. If you let the coolant go from 27C to 40C before the fans kick in, it may take a good 10-15 minutes while still under load to knock that back down to 32C where you would have been originally. During that time, your CPU temps will be +10C higher than they otherwise normally would. Much like the GPUs, it is more efficient and less intrusive to let the fans run slow from the start, than to stay off then blast away for 10 minutes to compensate. I can still hear my Maxwell SLI fans going to 80%+ when they reach 60C. Way too loud. If you want to use it on the desktop for quiet work, that's fine. However, you want to deactivate it before getting into anything strenuous. Personally, I like a nice low 400 rpm fan speed to cover over other system noise. Most people are accustomed to the diffuse sound of low speed fan and it falls into the "white noise" spectrum. Pumps and HDD clicks do not and I prefer not to hear those sounds.

If you have a Corsair keyboard, we can show you how to set a one button profile switch to toggle between difference saved fan/pump speeds in iCUE. However, if you don't , you'll need to manually engage/disengage those settings.

Last edited by c-attack; 11-24-2018 at 10:15 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11-24-2018, 10:47 AM
elric75 elric75 is offline
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OK for the fans, i'll leave those then if they are fine :)

For the curve, i set up the captor on the cpu not the coolant

What curve should i set up for the coolant then?

I just noticed after a gaming session on my oculus that the coolant is at 40 degrees but i have no clue how to set up a proper fan curve based on the coolant temperature



Yeah i Have a k70 rapidfire but there are no macros on it

Last edited by elric75; 11-24-2018 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 11-24-2018, 11:00 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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Coolant curves - make the fans as quiet as you like for your baseline. Your baseline temp is pretty much were it sits when on the desktop, typically +4-7C above your room temp or lowest possible is your case temp. You will get some fluctuation in room temps, so leave yourself +3C or so before starting the curve up.

Figure out your typical coolant temp when gaming or whatever else you do. Set that to the highest fan speed you are willing to tolerate then drop it back 100 rpm. Smooth it out back to the baseline +3C mark. You don't need 100% fan speed here unless you really want it.

Save the 100% fan blast for where you had it at 50C. You should never get there unless there is a problem. The fan blast will let you know something is wrong, likely before you notice it on the monitor.

Fan speed just isn't that critical and there is no meaningful difference between 1300 and 1200 rpm. Always go with noise comfort versus raw speed.

You got to 40C coolant temp gaming? Where did it start?

Occulus - how much GPU do you have in there? SLI? 1080 Ti? What case is this and is the H150i top exhaust or front intake?
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Old 11-24-2018, 11:14 AM
elric75 elric75 is offline
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I have no idea of the room temperature though i have nothing to measure it i always based my curves to the cpu temperatures. So i really have no clue how to make the curve based on coolant temp. But i see my cpu temp idle at 40c right now.. which is really really disappointing :(

For the fan speed, when i'm gaming i really don't care actually.


I played for an hour and so it was 40c, now it went down to 34

I have a 1080ti, the h150i is on the top exhaust
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Old 11-24-2018, 11:37 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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You don't have to know the room temp, just that is will affect the case and everything inside. Usually the reason coolant temps are +3C compared to a prior time is because the room temp shifted. More of an Winter/Summer kind of thing to be aware of. Whatever coolant temp the system settles at when on the desktop (not immediately after load) is your baseline. So you are resting on 34C?
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Old 11-24-2018, 11:45 AM
elric75 elric75 is offline
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Yeah around 33/34 c at idle when it has cooled down.

Cpu temp (hw monitor) are not great.. around 38/40c

. I admit i'm very disappointed but the results :( I don't know if something is wrong or the curve isn't good maybe i don't know. Maybe I should just put the fans on balanced? (tried it but a little bit noisy..)

Last edited by elric75; 11-24-2018 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 11-24-2018, 11:58 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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At idle, fan speed won’t matter much you can add a custom curve (this allows fixed rpm and %), then max it things might change by 1C.

Is it generally warm where you are? The deltas all are within expectations and the 33-34C coolant baseline suggests it might be in the upper 20s in your room. Failing that, it is pretty likely it is 33C in your case and that is a different matter.

One thing to keep in mind is all water coolers are subject to these same principles. The difference is the Eisbarr may not have provided the data. Don’t be too quick to make a final assessment. Also, check your task manager to see if there is anything keeping cores active (like iCUE).
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Old 11-24-2018, 12:04 PM
elric75 elric75 is offline
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The cooland after a little reboot is at 32c

My cpu is at 3 to 5% idle

yeah it's a bit warm i guess in my room, it's central heated in my building


I had HW monitor datas with the eisbaer, it was a bit cooler, not by a lot I admit, i'll have to check when gaming more to see, espcially with game with some CPu load like the last assassins creed to see if there is an actuall difference.

What curve would you suggest based on those informations? I put it all on balanced right now, i can hear the fans, it's not horrible though but could be better.

i tried :

50% untill 30c
70% at 33c
80% at 37c
100% at 40c
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Old 11-24-2018, 02:47 PM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elric75 View Post

50% untill 30c
70% at 33c
80% at 37c
100% at 40c
This is fine if you don't mind the higher fan speeds. It seems you will get to the 100% mark and that puts the fans at 1500 rpm or so. That's right about my limit for a 120mm fan. I think you can relax the curve a bit, but since you are keen to make comparisons to the prior cooler and evaluate what you just bought, the above is fine until you want it quieter. It certainly does not need to be more aggressive.
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Old 11-24-2018, 04:53 PM
elric75 elric75 is offline
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Thanks i will try with those, i'm around 37idle, seems that there iss less temperatures spikes than with my previous one, that is good

Noise is ok, i can here a little humming but it's not that bad
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Old 11-25-2018, 06:45 AM
elric75 elric75 is offline
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I have 2 of the three fans with phanteks halo and both those fans are more noisy than the third, maybe screwing the halos didn't helped. Maybe i should got rid of it and takes the same ML fans but RGB ?



those? https://www.amazon.fr/Corsair-Pressi...+ML120+PRO+RGB

But i was wondering if i can plug the rgb to the rgb header of my motherboard with some Daisy chain like I have for my halos and not use the corsair hub?

Last edited by elric75; 11-25-2018 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:40 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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Do you mean you are running push-pull with the three Corsair ML-Qiet grey fans and then two more of the Phanteks Halos on the other side of the radiator? Or you replaced two of the three Corsair fans with Phanteks? You really shouldn't need push-pull for a 360mm and the level of wattage a 8700K can produce, even overclocked above 5.0 Ghz.

No, I am afraid the RGB mechanics are a bit more complicated than that. Fan power and RGB lighting power are split into two different pathways. The ML-RGB will plug into the H150i splitter like a normal fan. However, they also have a second wire for lighting power. That goes to something called a RGB Lighting Hub and requires a PSU SATA connection to supply power., The RGB lighting hub then connects to a motherboard USB interface device called the Lightning Node Pro (LNP). That is the software control device and how iCUE sees the fans. It also needs a SATA power supply. All of these are required physical pieces and you would want to buy the ML-RGB 120 3 pack to get all of them. Otherwise you would have to buy 2, buy an LNP for 30-40 Euros, and then direct order the RGB Lighting Hub from Corsair or someone selling one on Ebay. Almost always better to buy the multipacks. I don't know which board you have. SOme MSI boards have a Jcorsair header, but regardless this is always a step down. iCUE allows a ridiculous level of complexity in lighting. The various motherboard programs are simplistic by comparison and you would likely be limited to basic colors and patterns. No reason to do this anyway since the hardware requirements are the same and you need to run iCUE anyway for the cooler.

Also see this thread:
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=173880
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