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  #61  
Old 05-05-2014, 12:00 PM
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The PPPP got featured on the CaseLabs FB page this morning, and the EK Orange Juice shot got featured on the EK FB page this morning. Very cool! I'm duty and honor bound to request that you go "like" their pages immediately.
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  #62  
Old 05-06-2014, 03:50 PM
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I'm ready to spin some fans up in the case so that Jennifer can select the final color combination. Quick little project before I start that.

I'm sure we've all learned the trick of shorting the green and black on the 24 pin to jump start a PSU that is not connected to the motherboard. I use it all the time when I'm doing leak testing with my pumps. I've always done it with something ugly like this:





The white wire above has male terminals on it and is shorting the PS_On and a ground, on the motherboard side of the 24 pin PSU cable. You could use a paperclip also. It works...but is big bulky and in the way. So, you still have to plug in the entire 24pin connector to your PSU and have the cable stuffed somewhere. If the PSU is in your case, then the bulky 24 pin cable is in the way of everything. If it's outside of your case, I keep knocking the wire out of the terminals when I move or touch it. So....I decided to short the PSU in style this time. :)

First...I cut a small piece of 16AWG wire....





....used my handy dandy new wire strippers. I really love these. I've grown to really love strippers. Wait....that didn't sound right.....





Perfect strips every time. I love it when strippers work correctly for me. Wait....that didn't sound right either.







The I used my handy dandy new crimper from Lutro0 Customs and put some female ATX terminals on the end....






And might as well put some sleeve on it so that we are shorting the PSU in style....





Add a touch of heatshrink....and plug directly into the PSU.







That will be a little nicer to live with while I cable up stuff without powering the motherboard up. I'll simply put the PSU back in the case and leave my jumper on until I'm ready to boot this baby. This way I can still power up and test other components....even without the bulky 24 pin cable stuffed in there.

The only caution would be to make sure you know which pins on your PSU correlate to the PS_ON and a ground. The AX1500i is not a one-to-one relationship for the wires coming from the PSU to the 24 pin connector. So trace your own wires carefully before plugging in something wrong.

Now....back to my love for my strippers....

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  #63  
Old 05-07-2014, 02:35 PM
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Video of fans spinning! Jenn wanted to see them spinning before she chose he her combination. Almost looks like still pictures in a lot of it since the fans blur so nicely, but it's actually all video. I can only really swap out one fan at a time for the different combinations, but you should get a good feel for what they look like.

Take a 2 minute break, turn up the volume and enjoy!


http://youtu.be/sj5lcxH0RQY

....and yes I see my missing space in the opening. :)
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  #64  
Old 05-09-2014, 03:24 PM
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Update on my 3d printed pump stand prototype.....

Earlier I posted a Sketchup view of a quick and dirty pump mount I had put designed. This one....





I did some research online, using "the google", and found lots of online 3d print companies where you can simply upload a STL file and they will immediately analyze and spit back out a cost for printing it in different materials they have available. There is an extension for Sketchup that will create a STL file from your 3d model. I installed the extension and created my STL file, and played around with uploading it to various websites for a cost estimate. OMG.....the 3d printing companies are absolute pirates! The design above would cost anywhere between $500 and $600 to print in ABS plastic at all the sites I went to. That's right....an 8 inch piece of plastic would cost between $500 and $600 to print. OUTRAGEOUS!

A gaming acquaintance of mine had recently been posting in G+ about a 3d printing club that had been started at his work. They had 10 people each pitch in about $200 and collectively buy a printer for their own use. He had posted some pics of the 3d prints he had done so far, and some comments about how cheap the material was. So....I talked to him about possibly letting a non club member utilize the 3d printer for a fee....and his club agreed. Subject of course to availability in the queue, and only if no member prints are ready to go. They decided to charge me $10 plus cost of materials. I sent him the STL file and their printer administrator loaded it to their software, and estimated the cost of the actual materials used at about $1. Yes.....one dollar. You read that right. So.....right now I have my prototype model in the queue at a cost to me of $11. $11 vs $500. I realize that the larger companies need to cover the depreciation on the machine also....but come on. They wanted to charge me $500 for $1 worth of plastic and some printer time? OUTRAGEOUS!

Not sure when my print will run since I have to wait until no member prints are waiting before my print will run. But I hope to be able to show you my first 3d printed pump mount prototype within the week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I didn't make any significant design errors. First 3d printed model....so this one is a learning experience for me.

But the idea of their 3d printing club intrigues me, and makes me wonder whether there could be some interest here at OCN on members participating in a 3d printer club. I'm thinking seriously about starting one. I'll put the rough outline of how it would work into a new thread to gauge interest. I'll post a link to that thread here, so look for it if you are interested in exploring the idea. Even if you only want to 3d print one item.....it would make financial sense to join the club. But the number of things a computer builder/modder could design and 3d print are limited only by their imagination.
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  #65  
Old 05-10-2014, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpachris View Post
I did some research online, using "the google", and found lots of online 3d print companies where you can simply upload a STL file and they will immediately analyze and spit back out a cost for printing it in different materials they have available. There is an extension for Sketchup that will create a STL file from your 3d model. I installed the extension and created my STL file, and played around with uploading it to various websites for a cost estimate. OMG.....the 3d printing companies are absolute pirates! The design above would cost anywhere between $500 and $600 to print in ABS plastic at all the sites I went to. That's right....an 8 inch piece of plastic would cost between $500 and $600 to print. OUTRAGEOUS!
Sometimes you can refactor the design to get the cost down. Sometimes they figure out the cost based on polygons or something, and a quick refactoring / redesign can drop that cost down. They could also be using higer quality plastic, but I agree, that's an insane cost for such a little thing. Removing "The PPPP" from the front could also drop the cost down because it's a "complex" part of the design.


Quote:
But the idea of their 3d printing club intrigues me, and makes me wonder whether there could be some interest here at OCN on members participating in a 3d printer club.
This isn't OCN buddy! Check those copy / pastes :)

3D printing is definitely becoming more affordable, and it's amazing what you can do with it (e.g. rapid prototyping). Aside from industrial 3D printing which is working its way into things like car design, there's crazy folks like this guy (http://replicadb4.com/) who is printing a full size car in sections of 150 x 150 x 150 mm (~5.9 inch cube).
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  #66  
Old 05-10-2014, 11:21 PM
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Still playing around with pump mount possibilities. Built prototype #3 today. Follow the fun below.....


For this version, I thought I would play around with some sheet metal. Never really worked with that before. I picked up a small sheet of 20 gauage steel from my local Lowes....for about $6 bucks.





Drew out a rectangle that was big enough for both sides of the pump mount.....




....dropped the jig saw attachment in my lil' worktable, and of course, donned the appropriate safety glasses.





Rectangle came out nice and smooth. I drew a line through the middle that would separate the two sides of the pump stand...





....and went back outside to the jigsaw to cut it in half. Easy peasy so far.....





Then I drew some lines where I wanted to ultimately bend the sheet metal.




...and used some snips to make a short cut where the bottom base would fold up.







Then I marked the holes I wanted to drill.....




...and commenced to drilling.





So far, everything went smoothly. Now...I don't own a bending brake. So to bend the metal I had to rig up a home bending brake using some wood and a clamp. Not ideal....but worth a shot.





It really didn't come out too bad for my first try on a home rigged bending brake.





Some of the corners came out nice and sharp.....while some were a little looser and sloppier. It was very rigid though. Definitely would hold up well.





For a final version, I could find someone that had a real bending brake and make these bends better. But....I ended up deciding that I don't really like the look of these as much as the aluminum angle version that I've done so far....so I didn't even bother painting or mounting pumps to it. It was a fun try....but I don't think it is the right solution for this build.





I made so much racket banging the sheet metal around with a hammer....that Jenn came out to see what was going on. She agrees that we will not be using these mounts in her computer.




I got notice that my 3d print will definitely run this weekend, so I may have news/pictures Monday of the outcome of that endeavor. I guess that one will be pump stand prototype #4. I have high hopes for that one. But I also like the aluminum angle #2 version, so after I get to see/touch the 3d printed version, I'll know which direction I need to go for the final version.
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  #67  
Old 05-10-2014, 11:27 PM
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bending /cutting sheet metal isnt as easy as it looks is it?
doing it by hand really requires much finesse that most just give up on,take it from someone that came real close to tossing in the towel...
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  #68  
Old 05-11-2014, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by wytnyt View Post
bending /cutting sheet metal isnt as easy as it looks is it?
doing it by hand really requires much finesse that most just give up on,take it from someone that came real close to tossing in the towel...
Well....it doesn't even look easy to me. :) But no...it's not easy!
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  #69  
Old 05-11-2014, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technobeard View Post
Sometimes you can refactor the design to get the cost down. Sometimes they figure out the cost based on polygons or something, and a quick refactoring / redesign can drop that cost down. They could also be using higer quality plastic, but I agree, that's an insane cost for such a little thing. Removing "The PPPP" from the front could also drop the cost down because it's a "complex" part of the design.
I had uploaded several versions, even before the PPPP lettering was added....and it was just about the same cost. Surprisingly...the lettering added very little at all to the cost.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Technobeard View Post
This isn't OCN buddy! Check those copy / pastes :)

3D printing is definitely becoming more affordable, and it's amazing what you can do with it (e.g. rapid prototyping). Aside from industrial 3D printing which is working its way into things like car design, there's crazy folks like this guy (http://replicadb4.com/) who is printing a full size car in sections of 150 x 150 x 150 mm (~5.9 inch cube).
Lol....the ol' copy/paste got me. Good catch! I'm usually pretty good about not making anything forum specific in my write-ups...which then lets me cut/paste to the forums I'm posting on. Got lazy this time I guess.

But I am serious about starting a 3d print club. I think it could be a huge benefit for builders/modders, and we could have access to this technology for a very small investment if we pooled our funds. Look for more on this soon....
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  #70  
Old 05-12-2014, 04:21 PM
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They guy that runs the 3d prints for the club I've mentioned....didn't go to work today. So....no new info about my print yet.

Boooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!
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  #71  
Old 05-13-2014, 10:52 AM
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My friend just messaged me that my 3d print is ready to pick up. Yay! I'm headed his way during lunch. Phone pic showed it looked pretty darn good. But what I'm really after with this prototype is to see how strong it is. Pictures this afternoon!

Plus....I'm in the middle of a test pink dye bath right now to see how close I can get to the pink case color. I'm testing some sleeving, and some connectors. I'll have pictures of that also tonight. I'm testing at 3 different time lengths for the sleeve. 45 minutes, 1.5 hours and 2.5 hours. I've already taken the 45 minute dye bath sleeve out....and it looks pretty phenomenal. Very good match for the case. I'll definitely be using some of this custom dyed pink Telios in the build as an accent color!
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  #72  
Old 05-13-2014, 04:28 PM
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Pictures of Pump Prototype #4!

If you've been following, you've seen this render of a pump mount that I put together in Sketchup.....





As previously mentioned, the online 3d printers wanted north of $500 bucks to print this. I found an acquaintance that has access to a 3d printer through a club he participates in at work. The actual material cost ended up being $1 and they charge non-members an additional $10 for each print. So, I paid $11 to have my quick sketchup model printed in black PLA. We used a 50% fill rate for this one. The print took about 16 hours.









The material you see in the middle of the holes, and underneath the some of the letters....is just support material. The printer can't print on top of air....so if you have an overhang that is greater than about 45 degrees or so....it prints support material underneath it. This material is then removed after the print is complete.





All the support material came off pretty easy. I could poke out the stuff in the large holes. Used an exacto knife on the stuff in the small holes and the letters. I got a little aggessive on the "T" in the letters. I had thrown that label on the pump stand in the last minute before sending it....just because I wanted to see what it looked like. I only had a smidgen of the T actually touching the base of the pump stand....so it wasn't strong enough to withstand my aggressive removal of the support material. :o I glued it back on....at a funny angle....because there simply wasn't room for it to have much contact.

While I was messing with the letters.....why not throw some pink paint on them? Right?





I truly am amazed at the precision of these consumer grade 3d printers. I didn't really know what to expect....but it printed exactly what I designed. It has some heft to it also. Base is very flat and strong. The vertical mount doesn't flex at all on it's own...but you can bend it a little bit if you try.









Let's put the pumps in the stand and see if it holds them.....











I guess I got the measurements right! It actually stands on it's own without being bolted down. There is enough of a base where it is self supporting. However, I would definitely bolt it to the midplate for the final installation.

The pump stand has some rough spots where the finish isn't as smooth as it could be....but even with those spots....this looks so much more professional than any of my other prototypes. This is by far my favorite, and I will definitely go this direction. I will however need a few tweaks for the final design. I'll print another one within a week or so.....

Here it is in the case!











Now...for the next, and final, version....I need to make these changes:

1) Make the vertical plate just a tad thicker. This one was 1/4 inch thick. I think I'll go 3/8 inch thick for the final.
2) Need another millimeter or two space between the pump tops. There is barely enough space for a stop fitting between them right now.
3) Use a different font for the "The PPPP" lettering. This was too thin. Don't like how it looks....but I do like the customizaton.
4) Tweak the base so that there is even more support for vertical plate, and at different levels on the front and back. I can have the supports on the back side of the vertical plate come up higher than I can on the front. I'll take advantage of that for the next version.
5) I'm going to add an extension arm off the top of this that I will use to mount the reservoir.


I LOVE THIS TECHNOLOGY!!!!! I'll definitely be starting that thread about a 3d print club. I'm very serious about that. I've already got a long list of things in my mind that I could 3d print for this build and for others. Modder's dream. Look for that thread soon....I'll post a link to it in this thread.

Let me know if you have any ideas for the final version of the pump stand. I'll be working at designing it this week.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:20 PM
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It's been too long since I did a dye bath. Let's change that.....

For those that didn't follow along when I did this for the BBBB....here are the basic steps. I'm using disperse dyes since I found the RIT dyes did not do well with plastic sleeving. At least for the colors I wanted to make. I had great success with the disperse dyes. First...get 3 pots. 1 large and 2 small....





Save your marraige. Don't use your wife's good pots. :) The big pot needs to be large enough to hold all the items that you are going to dye. Fill it up about 1/2 full with water (or however much you need to fully cover items plus some extra), and add 1/2 cup of vinegar in it. Start that bad boy boiling.....





In one of the small pots, get some water boiling, and then add 1 tablespoon of your dye carrier.





This dye carrier is cool to watch when you put it in water. It looks like a nuclear reaction under the water and billows out like clouds engulfing all the water in the pot and turning it a milky white Stir the mixture. Save your marraige. Don't use your wife's good flatware to stir.





Take the carrier/water combination from small pot and dump it into your large pot that has the water/vinegar combination....





It's now a milky white also.....





In the other small pot, you need to get some water boiling also. This is the pot you will add the actual dye to. Save your marraige. Dont use.....you get it by now. I'm using red from Pro Chemical disperse dyes. It's more of a pink for some items...and more red for some items. Depends on the material. In my trials and tribulations of learning how to do this last time....the sleeving ended up more pink with this stuff....





How much dye you use has a direct impact on color. For this test, I'm using 3 teaspoons of red dye....





After mixing it well....dump the dye mixture from the small pot into your large pot.





Bring it back up to a simmer. You want a small boil. Needs to be hot.





Now get the items that you are going to dye. For this test, I'm going to throw in one of the Corsair fan accent rings, a 4 pin molex connector, a 3 pin fan connector, two of the rubber corners for the Corsair fans, and 3 short pieces of sleeve.....





Later in the process....I also threw in 3 pieces of white heat shrink. You can't add these while the pot is boiling, or it activates the shrink. Wait until your other stuff is done, and let the dye bath cool just a little bit first...and then add the shrink....





Keep the dye bath simmering. The length of time in the dye bath impacts how dark a shade of color you get. I took one of the pieces of sleeve out at 45 minutes, one at 1.5 hours, and the other at 2.5 hours. All other items came out at 2.5 hours also.

Here is how all the items looked! You'll see some items came out red (fan accent ring, 4 pin molex, rubber fan corners)....but some are a glorious pink!





Close-ups of the sleeve, since that is really what I was the most interested in.





From top to bottom....is the 45 minute, 1.5 hour and 2.5 hour version. Tough to tell in pictures...but there is a small difference in how deep the color is the longer the sleeve was in. Not really a different color....just deeper. The top one ended up being the best match for my case. So for the final batch, I'll probably cook it about an hour.





The fan connector was also almost an exact match for the sleeve. And you'll notice that with dye....every nook and cranny gets colored. There are no spots that are missing color. Everything is uniform. Plus...you can't scratch it off. It's a permanent part of the plastic now. Very durable.





Colors are tough to get right and distinguish in those up-close shots with lighting. But here is a better pic of the sleeve in front of the case. It really is a perfect match. I don't even need another test batch to tinker with the color....because this matches the case exactly.





So.....the accent ring didn't come out pink. I'll still need to paint those. The grey rubber fan corners didn't come out pink. I'll leave those grey. The 4 pin molex didn't come out pink. I'll use black for those. But the sleeving and the 3 pin fan connectors are a perfect match, so I need to figure out what I want to do with those.

I'm still thinking primarily black sleeving inside the case. Maybe all black sleeving for the fan cabling. But I really would like some pink accents in the main power cables (24 pin and the motherboard power connectors). This gives me an option. Early on in this thread I had bought some samples of the pink sleeving available out there....and didn't like any of it. It looked cheap. But this is the Lutro0 Customs Telios sleeving....in a perfect pink match for my case. I simply must add some. I'll try out some color combinations on you guys after I dye all my white Telios pink.

Need to think about whether I want to use the pink fan connectors....or stick with black. Or I guess what I should do is ask the boss....
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  #74  
Old 05-16-2014, 09:31 PM
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I've got most of the tweaks in the pump stand model. Here is a front view and a back view......







The lettering is simpler. I like it better. Trying some recessed on the front....although this may not really show at all. And some on the back.

Next...I'll try and add the reservoir mount structure to the right side of the pump stand.

Would love suggestions/comments/ideas as I tinker with this.....
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:00 PM
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Thought about making the logo hollow ?
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