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H80i v2 install (replaces H80 2010-20011 install)


dc8flyer

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Despite issues mentioned below, the H80i v2 runs stressed 16 to 21 C cooler than old H80. At idle the temps are only 2 C cooler than Old H80.

 

It had been about 7.5 years since I had reapplied new TIM so the much lower temps might be slightly due to the new Grizzly paste.

 

 

Pro's

 

Nice looking product

Seems well built

Larger radiator and hoses

Much quieter than H80 with other than stock fans (noctua F-12 iPPC 3000rpm)

 

 

Con's

Instructions show Link cable connect on top of water block-it is actually on the bottom.

Screws are too short making install difficult

Unable to link Link and adjust fans

 

 

I ran into several issues installing this product. Some were my assumptions that got me into trouble, others were parts issues and bad illustrations.

 

 

First, don't assume that because you had previously installed an older H80 that the offsets would work with the new H80i v2. Do a dry run to see if the water block will work with the old offsets. Also there should be some mention as to how much torque should be applied to screws as it seems the bracket will bend down to the offsets as you continue to tighten.

 

 

I decided to install the water block first then the radiator. I found out early that the offsets would not work. When you remove the old offsets be sure to do one at a time, replace it with the new offset, and repeat until completed. This will make sure the back plate doesn't fall out. The older offsets were about an eight inch too short so the screw downs would not engage.

 

 

Next, save the old screws (fan to radiator) from the old H80 as they are a bit longer and will make the process of connecting the fan to the radiator easier. Part of the problem is if you decide to use a different fan that may have vibration dampeners it may be too thick for the length of the screw. The dampeners add a little extra to the fan width and the shorter screws will make the connection impossible. Even if you decide to use the stock fans with a small rubber washer the width will be too much for the shorter screws.

 

The biggest disappointment came from believing the picture of the Link connection in the instructions showing the cable connection on the top of the water block. It isn't, the connection is on the bottom of the water block.

 

Well, after having installed the H80i v2, the last thing I attempted was to connect the Link to the water block and USB. Finding out at the very end that my Chipset heat block and fan, directly below the H80i v2 water block, was blocking any possibility of making the connection really psd me off. There is a small chance that if I removed the water block that I can insert the cable and then reseat the water block. It will be very tight and will cost me another tube of paste.

 

Right now I'm running the system without any control of the fans. The CPU header is hooked up to the water block so the fans are running but I can't make any personal preferences. The most I get from the fans is 1400 rpm.

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Fan control is handled in Link or iCue. So ... you need that USB connection. It may help to rotate the pump head in order to get the connection in.

 

It shouldn't cost you another tube. Most tubes of thermal paste come enough paste for multiple applications and caps that can be used to reseal the tube. While it won't last years, you just applied one.

 

The fan speeds, by default, are in the Quiet profile, IIRC. That fan speed that you see is actually 1/2 the pump speed.

 

One additional comment ... nowhere did you mention setting the CPU_FAN header to 100%/Full Speed. Unfortunately, this critical little tidbit isn't in the manual.

 

And while you're here, take a look at the Cooler FAQ.

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Edited:

 

The one gram of Grizzly is just enough for one application. I had ordered two and used both for the two attempts. One due to offsets and second final application.

 

No, did not know that. However my old 2009 BIOS doesn't have that. I check BIOS and there are no settings for any fan controls. The Alienware Command center is separate software that controls all lights and fans.

 

The command center has a CPU and Systems fan monitor but the CPU fan can not be adjusted to any percentage, just the Systems fan. I connected the H80i to the system header and selected 100 percent in the Command center's system fan but I saw no difference in rpm's.

 

I guess that unless I download the Link I wont see any difference but selecting 100 percent in the Command Center system fan and hooking up the H80i to the System Header will eventually allow me to adjust the rpm's above 1400 using the link.

 

 

Will have to wait until next week to do any work on this however.

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Ooh... I bet they are not putting 1366 socket gear in the new coolers. When I did this, it was still common. If the pump is on SYS FAN, what's on the CPU header? There is probably some weird Dell 5 pin thing that used to power the original pump, but I thought the Aurora still had 1 CPU fan and 1 Sys fan up top.

 

Short term solution -- if you have a free SYS_FAN header in the top mesh roof material, connect the two radiator fans there. However, it will not be ideal and I am not sure how it will adjust to temps (was never sure what CC was using as a control variable). I would suggest a setting a quiet fixed speed when working on the desktop and a moderate, but tolerable speed for gaming. You don't really need it to be dynamic. Still want the header to the pump to be set as high as possible in CC.

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Ooh... I bet they are not putting 1366 socket gear in the new coolers. When I did this, it was still common. If the pump is on SYS FAN, what's on the CPU header? There is probably some weird Dell 5 pin thing that used to power the original pump, but I thought the Aurora still had 1 CPU fan and 1 Sys fan up top.

 

Short term solution -- if you have a free SYS_FAN header in the top mesh roof material, connect the two radiator fans there. However, it will not be ideal and I am not sure how it will adjust to temps (was never sure what CC was using as a control variable). I would suggest a setting a quiet fixed speed when working on the desktop and a moderate, but tolerable speed for gaming. You don't really need it to be dynamic. Still want the header to the pump to be set as high as possible in CC.

 

I have one of each. A fan header and a cpu header. The CC can be adjusted to change the system fan only and not the cpu. I have set the fan system to 100 percent and the radiator fans maintain 1400 rpms. If I set the CC fan system to zero percent the radiator fans maintain 1400 rpms - there is no difference.

 

To the best of my knowledge nothing has ever been connected to the cpu header. The cpu header may have been used for the adjustable vents on other models. In any case, regardless of the header used, there is no difference in fan speed (maintains 1400 rpms) and I suspect no difference in pump speed.

 

THe old H80 used the system header and the fans were adjustable.

 

May just have to wait until I can get the Link cable installed to see if I gain any fan control.

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Note that the fan header reports 1/2 the Pump RPM. So if it's saying 1400 RPM, that pump is running at 2800-3000 RPM. That's performance mode on that pump.

 

 

I will have to wait and see what I have once I can get the Link cable installed and software working. Until then I don’t think I have any control of thr H80 v2.

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Reinstalled H80i v2 and have downloaded the Link and everything is working fine.

 

 

On a side note.

 

I have an i7 990x chip that has until recently been selling at 1200-1300 dollars.

 

 

If anyone has a 1366 socket, 58 chipset the 990x is selling (NEW) as low as 449 dollars.

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