Problem choice sensor h115i pro

Goodnight.

Since I have the H115i pro and active that the fan sensor works with the tempeteratura of the CPU package, every time I start the pc I have to enter ICue and change it because I automatically activate the sensor of the H115i that works with the refrigerant liquid Do you know why that happens? Thank you very much.

You should have the sensor set to use the coolant temperature for the fan control on the H115i Pro.

That said, it should keep your selection.

So you have one set of ML140 on the board and the other on the H115i PRO controller? The ML140 RGB are really low current draw. You could run them off dual splitters from each of the two native fan connectors on the H115i PRO. Allowing a healthy 0.5A for the pump, you still have about 1.5A to utilize, although I certainly would not take all of that. The ML140 RGB is a not much more than a trickle at 0.07A each.

Push-pull is another reason you want it on coolant temperature control. That will be 4 fans jumping up and down if set to package temp. Slow and steady is all you need.

That's your choice, I suppose ... but you are completely and totally ignoring the actual physics of how radiators and fans work in a liquid cooled system, as well as the constant temperature fluctuations that are normal with Intel's latest generation. Changing your fans to use the coolant temperature won't hurt your temperature but will keep the speeds low - which is obviously something that you care about since you are doing push pull.

Here's how it works (and this is repeated many, many, many times on this forum, so just a little bit of research would have gone a long way):

The fans on your radiator do not cool your CPU.

The fans on your radiator cool the coolant that's in the liquid cooled system.

The coolant then cools the CPU.

Liquid has a higher specific heat than air or metal. So it warms up (and cools down) much slower than air or metal. This means that your fan speed changes, when based on coolant temperature, will also be smoother. It also won't get as warm - so your fan curves react to lower temperatures.

So many people default to CPU temperature - mainly because that used to be all that we had to go on. But that's not appropriate in all cases; in fact, it's not appropriate in many cases. With the temperature sensors in the radiator, we have the ability to use the appropriate temperature for fan control - the coolant temperature.

Finally ... your cooler is actually designed to control the fans through the coolant temperature. That's how its engineered. All of the Asetek-based coolers that have an internal temperature sensor, regardless of vendor, are designed that way. Because it's based on solid physics. Now ... if you want to ignore both the design of the device as well as the basic laws of physics, that's your choice. Fortunately, you won't do any damage or mess things up. You cooler will run a fan curve based on coolant temperature until you load up iCue, then it'll be based on your CPU temperature. The fans will jump around a lot but with MLs you won't notice it much and it's unlikely to result in much, if any, additional wear on the motor and the bearings (since it really doesn't have bearings in the traditional sense). It won't be optimum. It won't be appropriate. But it'll still work just fine.

That's your choice, I suppose ... but you are completely and totally ignoring the actual physics of how radiators and fans work in a liquid cooled system, as well as the constant temperature fluctuations that are normal with Intel's latest generation. Changing your fans to use the coolant temperature won't hurt your temperature but will keep the speeds low - which is obviously something that you care about since you are doing push pull.

 

Here's how it works (and this is repeated many, many, many times on this forum, so just a little bit of research would have gone a long way):

 

The fans on your radiator do not cool your CPU.

The fans on your radiator cool the coolant that's in the liquid cooled system.

The coolant then cools the CPU.

 

Liquid has a higher specific heat than air or metal. So it warms up (and cools down) much slower than air or metal. This means that your fan speed changes, when based on coolant temperature, will also be smoother. It also won't get as warm - so your fan curves react to lower temperatures.

 

So many people default to CPU temperature - mainly because that used to be all that we had to go on. But that's not appropriate in all cases; in fact, it's not appropriate in many cases. With the temperature sensors in the radiator, we have the ability to use the appropriate temperature for fan control - the coolant temperature.

 

Finally ... your cooler is actually designed to control the fans through the coolant temperature. That's how its engineered. All of the Asetek-based coolers that have an internal temperature sensor, regardless of vendor, are designed that way. Because it's based on solid physics. Now ... if you want to ignore both the design of the device as well as the basic laws of physics, that's your choice. Fortunately, you won't do any damage or mess things up. You cooler will run a fan curve based on coolant temperature until you load up iCue, then it'll be based on your CPU temperature. The fans will jump around a lot but with MLs you won't notice it much and it's unlikely to result in much, if any, additional wear on the motor and the bearings (since it really doesn't have bearings in the traditional sense). It won't be optimum. It won't be appropriate. But it'll still work just fine.

Do you have any images of your ventilation profile?. the problem is that the fans that are connected to the motherboard can not make them work with the temperature sensor of the coolant and they will not go in line

As c-attack mentioned, you can run 2-way splitters on the H115i PRO - 1 side for the push fans and 1 side for the pull fans. You have plenty of available current on the H115i PRO to do this.

If you have them connected to the motherboard, your options are limited. Some motherboards have a connection for an 10K temperature sensor but yours does not appear to.

The other alternative is a Commander Pro. But that's really not necessary.