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H100 Modified


buradd

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i modified my H100 because the temps weren't great, i found that the pump was not pushing any water at all, just gurgling it..

 

with a little TLC, i have revived the pump and continued my modifications..

 

this wasn't my idea, i followed guides found in this very forum

 

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l234/buradd/IMG_20111201_211244.jpg

 

doing a leak test now overnight, will update with temps when its inside the case

 

fyi the pump really isnt designed to push alot of water very quickly, it just sorta has a slow drizzle flow which in theory should be enough to drop temps effectively as the water passed over the cold plate and thru the radiator

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Looks interesting, and my wife complains if I have PC stuff on the floor!

 

Talk about flushing your buffers... So how is the DIY bidet coming along? ;):

 

Seriously, just FMI (For My Information), do you recall about how much fluid was in the standard H100 system?

 

You wrote: "...with a little TLC, i have revived the pump and continued my modifications..."

 

Revived the pump? Just curious, care to elaborate on that?

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You wrote: "...with a little TLC, i have revived the pump and continued my modifications..."

 

Revived the pump? Just curious, care to elaborate on that?

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My guess is when the unit was drained the pump lost it's prime. He probably had a hard time getting it to start circulating.

 

It's a neat little mod. But if you are going to go through all the trouble to add a res to the H-100, you might as well go full water cooling at hat point.

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sorry i wasnt getting email responses so didnt know this forum was getting responses..

 

here is some update pics.. dont mind the puny 550ti, its borrowed from a friend while my 6950's come back from RMA

 

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l234/buradd/IMG_20111202_185725.jpg

 

and then here are some temps i just snapped for you

 

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l234/buradd/coretemps.jpg

 

you can see the max temps on the right, after hours of prime95 small FFT test, this is 1100T @ 4ghz

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My guess is when the unit was drained the pump lost it's prime. He probably had a hard time getting it to start circulating.

 

It's a neat little mod. But if you are going to go through all the trouble to add a res to the H-100, you might as well go full water cooling at hat point.

 

this is 100% correct, i wish i knew more about this like you..

 

i thought the unit was defective at first and gave up on it for a night.. came back the next night determined to make it work after thinking about it.. just had to suck the water thru manually to get it started.. and to make sure i didnt have any hiccups going forward, i manually filled the radiator too

 

i am going to get a full loop going but my money comes from sales and is streaky, i got the H100 as a nice budget cooler that works better than an air heatsink and after alot of forum reading i decided to pick up the reservoir for like $35 and do a little fun-stuff.. i knew i would not be dropping temps dramatically but dude its ten times better to look at :cool: and is yet another step closer to a full loop.. piece by piece ive made this beast.. and learning as i go, reading and asking people questions in forums like these so im happy to do it

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OMGawd, why did they put the power connectors on the front edge of those video cards, and not the side. That sure makes the wiring much more sloppy looking, what were they thinking? Oh yes, clearance in smaller cases. That '550 may be "puny", but it sure looks better.

 

Sorry, not a gamer, video cards are... yawn. :zzzz:

 

Otherwise, your modded H100... it's alive!!!

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  • 2 months later...

I've also done this mod. I used a clear non-uv coolant and added a transparant reservoir which is lighted bij 2 white leds, to keep in theme

with the white lighting of my 500T case.

Only thing different from your mod is the direction of the flow. As far as I can see your's is: Pump->Radiator->Resevoir->Pump.

Mine is the other way around: Pump->Reservoir->Radiator->Pump. This way I'm always getting the coldest possible water directly from

the radiator. But seeing the slow flow rate of the pump I dought it'll make any difference.

http://www.xs4all.nl/~delanger/tweak/P1050757.JPG

http://www.xs4all.nl/~delanger/tweak/P1050758.JPG

 

What startled me was the weak performance of the H100 pump. The flowrate is not much more then a trickle..

 

Temps are a few degrees lower under full-load (about 1 to 2 degrees), but that is caused because there no longer is any air trapped in

the radiator. Initial warm-up time is way longer, because of the added water volume..

 

Next update on the map is adding a second pump in the loop to help up the flow-rate a bit. Maybe I'll even completly remove the pump assembly from the CPU-block..Who knows.

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  • 4 weeks later...
What I like about this mod and going to full water cooling is that you can use the Corsair LINK KIT... it would be nice if the H100 pump can be disassem,bled to use only the control module to run on a regular water loop and thus have control of it thru the LINK software that would be nice!
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  • 2 months later...

Nice mods but them pics are a bit too big, Cant see the whole pic in one go?

I dont like the idea of running the radiator flat (horizontal as it would surely have a huge pocket of air in the top section and with the reservoir being below the radiator it would be impossible to get the air out of the radiator, Also the radiator would have warm air from the case being pulled through it?

 

Here is my modded H60>

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=106013&highlight=mod

You would gain a temp drop using the radiator out the back of the case in the ambient (hopefully cooler) air? Also the rad would be below the reservoir & have no air pocket at all

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  • 2 years later...
hi there, i have had a problem with the temps with the corsair h100 and i want to change the fluid inside and change the tubes to clear tubing.Im just wanting to know what res i need to work with the corsair h100.Thanks in advanced.
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