How To REMOVE the reservoir CAP ???

Guys,

I'm a bit upset : this morning I went to Fry's and bought the COOL system. Went home and, surprise! the fan's mounting braket was bended. I went back and try to exchange it, but hey ! the fan was missing from the other box on sale (and not refurbished, they told me). I had to go to another Fry's to get a complete set.

Now, late in the night, I'm at home, I finally completed the installation : all tubes plugged in, CPU ready to go, except for the coolant that I am eager to pour in the reservoir.

If only the cap could be removed ! it looks like it requires an exceptionaly large screwdriver head, and I tried the "coin" trick suggested somewhere else, but the plastic start to wear off ! Soon, my only solution will be to use the brute force, but like the other guys I've seen doing this in this forum, it seems it will result in leaks.

What are my options ? Will I have to ask Corsair to ship a new reservoir ?

Thanks !

If you're in the mood for some modding, do this (this is how I solved my reservoir problem):

NOTE: You will not be able to return your reservoir if you do this. Also, this mod will prevent you from being able to insert the reservoir in the top drive bay (it will now occupy two drive bays). If you prefer to wait, by all means get a replacement from Corsair. However, I still think the reservoir's fill method is pretty problematic, because the cap is submerged in liquid, so chances of leaks are greater, especially when filling, and because the cap is non-standard, so if it wears out, you need to order a replacement cap.

1. Use a screwdriver and push on the sides of the cap until it starts to turn. Then unscrew the cap. If there's no serious damage, try using the cap after you fill your system. During leak testing, tilt your case and see if coolant leaks around the cap. If so, proceed to step #2. If no leaks, you're done.

2. Empty the system and remove the reservoir. Remove the cap.

3. Get yourself a plastic coke bottle / water bottle / etc. Use a knife to cut off the top spout of the bottle, as close to the thick plastic ridge as possible: As Seen Here.

4. Sand down the bottom of that spout until it's perfectly flat.

5. Get plumber's GOOP (make sure you get one that can be used on plastics).

6. Place goop on the bottom of the spout, then place the spout onto the reservoir, around the fill hole, and let it dry for 24 hours.

7. (After 24 hours) Leak-test your reservoir by placing the cap tightly onto the spout and filling the res via its barbs using tap water. See if anything drips around the cap. For me, it didn't.

8. Your reservoir is ready to go. Reconnect to system and refill your system.

That is how I did it. Took less time than waiting for a replacement, and I have a better filling mechanism now, for the following reasons:

1. Because the spout is raised, there is less chance of overflow leakage when filling the system, because you can actually see the coolant when it reaches the spout.

2. Using a standard coke-bottle cap allows me to replace it more easily if the cap wears out.

Well, in the end it's your choice, but this is a very easy mod, and if you have two spare 5 1/4" bays, it's definitely worth a look.

Maybe i should make some metal reservoir caps,of a higher quality and sell them.

I heard that someone said to use a dime to open the cap with if you dont have the correct screwdriver.

I did look through all my coins and couldnt find a single dime, i did have plenty of ten pence pieces and 2 pence coins etc, but i just used a large screwdriver instead.

The original plastic caps do seem to be a problem.( even with a screwdriver eventually the slot is going to get damaged)

Ive not had a problem myself though however.

I have now added a northbridge and a gpu waterblock and my temps have only increased a few degrees.

The noise level of my machine has gone down dramatically.

I have blown(??) a radeon x850xt pe in the process but hey goes with the territory i guess?

I use non conductive liquid, but i made a big mistake by adding uv dye, which obviously was not non conductive.

I still have room to add another, either waterchiller or a single 80mm rad.

Anyone have any ideas where i can get either of these??????????????

Im using the Cool with 1 dual radiator cpu,northbridge,(asus a8nsli mb) waterblocks, clear reservoir.

My temps are as follows

Cpu idle is now 38C

Cpu load is now 45C

Northbridge (how do you measure this temp) need a sensor i guess

X700 pro idle is 32C

x700 pro load is 39C

These temps vary a little with ambient though.

Do these temps sound about right????? cpu is a Newcastle 3500+

Cheers

PeteB

PS Pump still working fine.

Hi PeteB,

Sorry about that cap (even more sorry about your X850!). Seems like Corsair should ship them with it off (saves time in manufacturing too, doesn't it?).

I assume you're in the UK, so here's one at Overclocker.co.uk. Swiftech 80mm rad. £24.99.

http://www.overclock.co.uk/customer/product.php?productid=18624

FWIW, I'm getting 41C load / 36C idle with my FX-53 (Sledgehammer). I think it could perform a bit better... still trying to figure that one out.

- Jon.

Hi PeteB,

 

Sorry about that cap (even more sorry about your X850!). Seems like Corsair should ship them with it off (saves time in manufacturing too, doesn't it?).

 

I assume you're in the UK, so here's one at Overclocker.co.uk. Swiftech 80mm rad. £24.99.

http://www.overclock.co.uk/customer/product.php?productid=18624

 

FWIW, I'm getting 41C load / 36C idle with my FX-53 (Sledgehammer). I think it could perform a bit better... still trying to figure that one out.

 

- Jon.

They pre-test all the kits, hence why the caps are on.

Thanks for the trick !

I finally managed to remove the original cap without screwing it up...

I don't think I need to use the cokebottle-mod, but I'll keep it in mind.

cheers

Hi PeteB,

 

Sorry about that cap (even more sorry about your X850!). Seems like Corsair should ship them with it off (saves time in manufacturing too, doesn't it?).

 

I assume you're in the UK, so here's one at Overclocker.co.uk. Swiftech 80mm rad. £24.99.

http://www.overclock.co.uk/customer/product.php?productid=18624

 

FWIW, I'm getting 41C load / 36C idle with my FX-53 (Sledgehammer). I think it could perform a bit better... still trying to figure that one out.

 

- Jon.

Hi JONH

Yep that looks like the extra radiator i need, its only 81mm wide, so i can just get it to fit, i assume the 1/2" connects they supply it with can easily be removed?.

Looks like my temps are about right then, hoping to be able to afford a new x2 4400 amd cpu soon, that should give my watercooled northbridge something to think about eh?.(pricy chip though). your temps seem good with an fx53, what is the core voltage of this chip, mine runs at 1.5V as standard.

If i have my fans running at very low speed on my rad, the temps increase to about 42c idle and 47c on load, which is a pretty good compromise between temperature and noise.(still lower than my 47 idle and 57 load using air cooling), each to their own preference i guess.

Thanks for the info, ill get that radiator, hope my pump can handle all these extra blocks and rads.

PeteB

I just thought of something.

You can replace a bad resevoir cap by using some duct tape. Just tape over the hole and use a needle (small/fine tip) to pierce a few holes to allow vapour and air to escape while keeping the liquid in. A bit ghetto, but no one will see it unless you have a clear case. ;)

Hi JONH

 

Yep that looks like the extra radiator i need, its only 81mm wide, so i can just get it to fit, i assume the 1/2" connects they supply it with can easily be removed?

 

Looks like my temps are about right then, hoping to be able to afford a new x2 4400 amd cpu soon, that should give my watercooled northbridge something to think about eh?.(pricy chip though). your temps seem good with an fx53, what is the core voltage of this chip, mine runs at 1.5V as standard.

 

If i have my fans running at very low speed on my rad, the temps increase to about 42c idle and 47c on load, which is a pretty good compromise between temperature and noise.(still lower than my 47 idle and 57 load using air cooling), each to their own preference i guess.

 

Thanks for the info, ill get that radiator, hope my pump can handle all these extra blocks and rads.

 

PeteB

The default voltage of the FX-53 is 1.6V I think. So I guess my temps are pretty good (lol, I should stop complaining about my temps I suppose :p: ).

I think you're probably better off with getting a chiller rather than another rad, but other people here have two rads running fine. I'm on the lookout for a cheap mini fridge or watercooler (the drinking water kind) to act as a chiller. Then I'll throw my resevoir and rad in there and reduce the noise even more.

That rad I linked for you says:

"The 3/8 OD inlet and outlet are fitted with our quick-connect adapters for use with 1/2 OD tubing".

So it's perfect for our kits.

- Jon.

I'm on the lookout for a cheap mini fridge or watercooler (the drinking water kind) to act as a chiller. Then I'll throw my resevoir and rad in there and reduce the noise even more.

I just thought of something.

getting a chiller rather than another rad, but other people here have two rads running fine. I'm on the lookout for a cheap mini fridge or watercooler (the drinking water kind) to act as a chiller. Then I'll throw my resevoir and rad in there and reduce the noise even more.

- Jon.

save your cash an get a small apartment chest freezer, the fridge won't handle the heat load

use it as a desk an have tower in freezer an run CD drives,ports,cables outside an use thermal barrier

I just thought of something.

 

You can replace a bad resevoir cap by using some duct tape. Just tape over the hole and use a needle (small/fine tip) to pierce a few holes to allow vapour and air to escape while keeping the liquid in. A bit ghetto, but no one will see it unless you have a clear case. ;)

 

 

 

 

The default voltage of the FX-53 is 1.6V I think. So I guess my temps are pretty good (lol, I should stop complaining about my temps I suppose :p: ).

 

I think you're probably better off with getting a chiller rather than another rad, but other people here have two rads running fine. I'm on the lookout for a cheap mini fridge or watercooler (the drinking water kind) to act as a chiller. Then I'll throw my resevoir and rad in there and reduce the noise even more.

 

That rad I linked for you says:

"The 3/8 OD inlet and outlet are fitted with our quick-connect adapters for use with 1/2 OD tubing".

 

So it's perfect for our kits.

 

- Jon.

HI

i think maybe another single 80mm rad added to my dual rad may not improve temps?? but basically i have enough room to fit one so it couldnt do any harm to use another.

About using a waterchiller, is definatelly what i would prefer also.

Im looking for one at the moment, you can get desktop ones(generally used in the medical industry).

I would like to try to squeeze one into my case though.

My loop is as follows

reservoir-pump-dual rad-cpu-gpu-northbridge-back to res.

water/fluid obviously gets hotter by the time it gets back to the rad.

actually now would like to have.

res-pump-dual rad-cpu-single rad or chiller-gpu-northbridge-back to res.

Maybe i should use 2 loops????.

Here in the uk, ambient temps i guess are far lower and at the moment in this hot spell 24/25c, but generally my ambients i prefer about 15/20c

If i go for a second rad, ill buy that swiftech one and remove the quick connects.

I may eventually up to 1/2" fittings(very easy to do with my new setup,had to change all original fittings to 3/8 to suit the cool cpu block anyway)

Best wishes

thanks

cheers

im going now to look for waterchillers,tecs,whatever i can find.

PeteB