Corsair Force 3 120GB Drive Issue

New drive installed and working for about 18 hours.. then BSOD.. Hoped it was a fluke but then another 10 hours pass and BSOD again.

 

This time the BSOD yields a 0x0000007A code with a KERNEL_INPAGE_ERROR message..

 

4 BSODs later I think I'm tired of this and I'm going to get a different drive.. Very unhappy with this drive at this point as it's cost me too much time and effort.

New drive installed and working for about 18 hours.. then BSOD.. Hoped it was a fluke but then another 10 hours pass and BSOD again.

 

Do you mean one of the latest and greatest drives that were to fix the issues many people are having? Are you using a sleep power option?

New drive installed and working for about 18 hours.. then BSOD.. Hoped it was a fluke but then another 10 hours pass and BSOD again.

 

Do you mean one of the latest and greatest drives that were to fix the issues many people are having? Are you using a sleep power option?

 

Yes this is a replacement drive with serial 1123xxx..

 

I changed power settings so that there is no sleep mode (I don't like my PC going to sleep..) and also there was a setting to power down hard drive after 20min that I also turned off.

 

And yet still the problem persists. This is not as frequent as the last drive (It used to BSOD within 5minutes) however it is frequent enough to warrant a return as the random shutdowns are not pleasant and should not happen for such an expensive drive.

That's a shame. I was hoping this would go away because I've been waiting for the 240GB drives to become available to snag one of them. I believe Corsair has been forthright in their approach but it seems like they and SandForce still can't nail this bug and in spite of claims that this is limited to the 120GB drives, I'm not going to take a chance on the 240GB drive unless Corsair wants to spot me one and I'll buy it if it works. The folks over on the OCZ forum are madder than hornets too because their drives are exhibiting similar sounding problems even though OCZ claims to NOT use the SandForce reference PCB.

I just said to my retailer that I want the replacement drive from corsair, but I'm afraid that the problems persists.

I bought the drive on 4 June, and I am waiting now for the replacement drive at 23 or 30 June, as the retailer says.

If the drive is not perfectly OK, I wasted my time.

I am thinking to demand a money return to the retailer if the notices that I read in this thread becomes true, and wait for more mature devices to switch from HD's to SSD's.

All the whole thing is very annoying.

Dunnski007, I split your post off from the main thread dealing with returns of the older drives. I'd like to focus this thread on your issue for 3 reasons.

 

1. I want to resolve your issue ASAP

 

2. I don't want to clog the other thread with troubleshooting

 

3. I want to solve your issue and see if it is an isolated issue specific to your machine/situation.

 

For others replying, please focus on troubleshooting this specific issue. Speculation about what "might" be happening with other users will not help here. This is dunnski's thread.

Dunnski007, I split your post off from the main thread dealing with returns of the older drives. I'd like to focus this thread on your issue for 3 reasons.

 

1. I want to resolve your issue ASAP

 

2. I don't want to clog the other thread with troubleshooting

 

3. I want to solve your issue and see if it is an isolated issue specific to your machine/situation.

 

For others replying, please focus on troubleshooting this specific issue. Speculation about what "might" be happening with other users will not help here. This is dunnski's thread.

 

Have you got any suggestions for troubleshooting? Although annoyed I'm still open to trying something to get this machine working 100%..

 

Specs are ASUS P8P67 Deluxe Motherboard

Core i7 2600K (Overclocked to 4.4GHz)

8GB RAM (worked fine before I changed to Force 3 primary OS drive)

EVGA GTX 470 card

1 kW PSU

 

As previously stated, it's not isolated to sleep mode, I do not have sleep mode active on the computer nor is there any specific software running that instantly cause the BSOD.

 

If there's any further information I can provide.. I'd be glad to.. But I don't want to continue re-installing OS's and being a beta tester...

 

(thanks for splitting this off of the main thread)

Did you do a clean install this time or was it a clone of an existing OS?

 

Are you in AHCI mode? If yes, what AHCI driver are you using?

 

What SATA cable are you using? Is it a cable specifically marked SATA3 or SATA6Gb or SATA3/6Gb?

 

Have you tested at a lower OC or at stock speeds?

Did you do a clean install this time or was it a clone of an existing OS?

 

Are you in AHCI mode? If yes, what AHCI driver are you using?

 

What SATA cable are you using? Is it a cable specifically marked SATA3 or SATA6Gb or SATA3/6Gb?

 

Have you tested at a lower OC or at stock speeds?

 

This is the driver version from device manager:

6.1.7600.16385

It is running on AHCI mode.

 

I am using a specific SATA6Gb cable on the non-marvell 6Gb port

 

I have not tested at a lower OC or stock speed.. But know that it was stable when running off of my 1TB WD drive and did not BSOD until using the SSD as a main OS drive.

 

This was a clean install.

This is the driver version from device manager:

6.1.7600.16385

It is running on AHCI mode.

You looked at the drive properties, not the controller properties. Look under IDE/ATA Atapi Controllers. You should see either Intel 10.*.*.* or MSAHCI. My guess is that you are on the MSAHCI driver if you did not manually install the Intel driver at some point.

 

 

I am using a specific SATA6Gb cable on the non-marvell 6Gb port

If you have another SATA3/6Gb cable on hand, switch to a different cable.

 

 

I have not tested at a lower OC or stock speed.. But know that it was stable when running off of my 1TB WD drive and did not BSOD until using the SSD as a main OS drive.

 

 

Please try it at stock for now just to be thorough if the 2 steps above have not helped.

I do not think it a fluke. I got my replacement drive last friday and it has BSODed on me 4 times so far. The most recent was just a few minutes ago while playing Age of Empires: The Conquerors. 3 times it has BSODed while playing this game and 1 time while playing Facebook Mafia Wars and Watching a Netflix movie at the same time. It doesn't seem to BSOD any other times. I'm beginning to wonder if the BSODs are related to the drive getting too hot.

 

My computer is at stock settings including AHCI 64-bit drivers installed using F6. I have not made any changes to the Windows 7 OS other than downloading all the updates from Windows Update. Whatever the default settings are after installation is how my system is configured.

I do not think it a fluke. I got my replacement drive last friday and it has BSODed on me 4 times so far. The most recent was just a few minutes ago while playing Age of Empires: The Conquerors. 3 times it has BSODed while playing this game and 1 time while playing Facebook Mafia Wars and Watching a Netflix movie at the same time. It doesn't seem to BSOD any other times. I'm beginning to wonder if the BSODs are related to the drive getting too hot.

 

My computer is at stock settings including AHCI 64-bit drivers installed using F6. I have not made any changes to the Windows 7 OS other than downloading all the updates from Windows Update. Whatever the default settings are after installation is how my system is configured.

 

Do either of you have any information relating to your BSOD in your Windows Event Viewer?

Intel® 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family 6 Port SATA AHCI Controller - 1C02

Driver version 9.2.1011

 

Reverting overclock.. Don't know if a BSOD will be seen soon.. Maybe it'll happen overnight.

 

How can I capture the details from the BSOD ?

Right click MY COMPUTER, then hit Properties, Advanced System Settings, Startup and Recovery.

 

Untick the AUTOMATICALLY RESTART tab:

 

 

Also, your driver version is VERY old. Go to Intel's site and ge the 10.1.0.1008 or later version.

 

Event Viewer in WIN7. Right click MY COMPUTER, Manage, Event Viewer.

Yellowbeard,

 

I made a pdf of the event viewer. Not quite sure how else to get the result to you.

Equally Wrong Event Viewer.pdf

Yellowbeard,

 

I made a pdf of the event viewer. Not quite sure how else to get the result to you.

 

You'll need to look over the event viewer results yourself. Start by looking to see if there are any indicated as critical and see what the codes lead you to. Google the results. Most of the time you'll find results at Microsoft.

You'll need to look over the event viewer results yourself. Start by looking to see if there are any indicated as critical and see what the codes lead you to. Google the results. Most of the time you'll find results at Microsoft.

 

Based on info at microsoft my issue fell under EventID 41 w/o a Stop Error BugCheckCode. Of the five choices to isolate the problem, only one (are any components overheating) I have not attempted.

 

I am going to remove my SSD from the case, blow a room fan across it, and play an instance of my video game. I've been suspecting, under heavy load, the SSD is getting to hot and shutting itself down. The reason I say this I used to have some DDR Corsair memory back in day with my P4 Northwood/P4C800-Deluxe that needed a fan on it just to get a 5% overclock.

 

I will post the results of my finding tomorrow.

Based on info at microsoft my issue fell under EventID 41 w/o a Stop Error BugCheckCode. Of the five choices to isolate the problem, only one (are any components overheating) I have not attempted.

 

I am going to remove my SSD from the case, blow a room fan across it, and play an instance of my video game. I've been suspecting, under heavy load, the SSD is getting to hot and shutting itself down. The reason I say this I used to have some DDR Corsair memory back in day with my P4 Northwood/P4C800-Deluxe that needed a fan on it just to get a 5% overclock.

 

I will post the results of my finding tomorrow.

 

Don't rely on SMART info for drive temps. Most of the SMART apps are horribly wrong. Touch it with your hand. If it's 128c or whatever ridiculous temp those things report, you will see melting metal and have burning flesh.

 

Also, if you have any additional concerns, please start your own thread.

Don't rely on SMART info for drive temps. Most of the SMART apps are horribly wrong. Touch it with your hand. If it's 128c or whatever ridiculous temp those things report, you will see melting metal and have burning flesh.

 

Also, if you have any additional concerns, please start your own thread.

 

Ok, I have finished playing about 3 hours of the game and not one BSOD. Like I mentioned before, I suspected the SSD was getting too hot and shutting itself down. I am not sure if having a fan blowing directly on the SSD made the difference but I was able to finish a 3 hour game with 7 other people playing. I also took Arcsoft MediaConverter 7 and transcoded a dvd disc to h.264 (with puts the CPU and SSD under heavy load) and it did not hiccup at all.

 

I feel confident as long as I can keep the drive cool I won't have any more problems. I am going to go the Microcenter and by a case fan to blow directly onto the drive.

 

If I have anymore problem I will start my own thread.

I have not had another BSOD for about 24 hours now... Will let you know if i experience another.

I have not had another BSOD for about 24 hours now... Will let you know if i experience another.

Very cool, it's a step in the right direction. Remember what you have changed to this point and let us know how it goes.

 

Based on info at microsoft my issue fell under EventID 41 w/o a Stop Error BugCheckCode. Of the five choices to isolate the problem, only one (are any components overheating) I have not attempted.

 

I am going to remove my SSD from the case, blow a room fan across it, and play an instance of my video game. I've been suspecting, under heavy load, the SSD is getting to hot and shutting itself down. The reason I say this I used to have some DDR Corsair memory back in day with my P4 Northwood/P4C800-Deluxe that needed a fan on it just to get a 5% overclock.

 

I will post the results of my finding tomorrow.

 

SSDs run EXTREMELY COOL, even at 100% load. You may have had a temp issue but there is virtually no chance it originated with the SSD. If it happened gaming, it's much more likely that it was your GPU that overheated.

 

I am going to remove my SSD from the case, blow a room fan across it, and play an instance of my video game. I've been suspecting, under heavy load, the SSD is getting to hot and shutting itself down.

This is not possible as there is no thermal mechanism in the SSD to perform this function. "IF" there is a heat related issue and it is due to the SSD, you need to RMA it .

Woke up this morning to a buzzing noise and a fun BSOD

 

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/dunnski007/0624010600.jpg

 

Don't know where I can get the physical data from it .. but seems to be a problem with the ATA controller.

Just for troubleshooting, have you tried:

 

1. moving the drive to one of the SATA2 headers?

2. raising your PCH voltage to 1.15v (1.14v or 1.16v is fine if your BIOS won't do 1.15v exactly)

Just for troubleshooting, have you tried:

 

1. moving the drive to one of the SATA2 headers?

2. raising your PCH voltage to 1.15v (1.14v or 1.16v is fine if your BIOS won't do 1.15v exactly)

 

I'd prefer to keep it on the SATA3- but I'll give the 1.15v a shot for now.

One thing that i can also note is that I'm never using the computer when it does it. It has always been overnight or while I was at work ...