havox Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Well I just got my new computer which looks great in the 800d. There are a few chips but no big deal. But the temps have been TERRIBLE at stock it idles in mid 40s with True north/south in a push pull. At 3.3ghz on my 920 d0 the temps are in the 70s at idle! I know there is no real intake so I arecerses the back fan which didn't really help. I gues I will put a front intake in as well as cut holes in the plexiglass. What temps do others have with their 920? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swalker23 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 I just bumped my D0 from 3.8 to 4.0ghz and temps are 39-43 idle depending on the time of day. House is cooler in the morning and then starts to warm up in the afternoon. I haven't seen it go pass 44 and I rarely see it jump up to 44. If you have use a front intake fan you will have to remove or unplug the 3rd/or 1st (depending on which way you see it, one closest to front) top exhaust fan because it will suck up most of the intake air. Thats why I made that wind tunnel and have 2 intake fans so the cool air can reach my cpu and also with that the 3rd exhaust I have it still running but its not sucking up the air like before I made the tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcfarla Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 The reviewer at this site http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews.php?/cases_cooling/corsair_obsidian_800d/1 stated they noticed extremely high temps using the stock fans, and that they had to upgrade the stock fans(video review is on the final page, 5 youtube videos). They did note when using the Corsair H50 cpu cooler that temps drop dramatically. I have the 800D with H50 cpu cooler, and my idle temps for the cpu cores on my I7 920 are around mid 40's, and running prime95 they get to low 70's with my machine overclocked to a little under 3.6ghz. Hope this info helps you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havox Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 Ok thanks, so you have two exhaust fans the two furthest back on the top. Also what about you rear exhaust fan is it an intake or exhaust? Also is your heatsink facin up or down? So is the exhaust going up or going out the back? Ad what heatsink do you have? Sorry for all the questions but my temps seem rather weird to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swalker23 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Ok thanks, so you have two exhaust fans the two furthest back on the top. Also what about you rear exhaust fan is it an intake or exhaust? Also is your heatsink facin up or down? So is the exhaust going up or going out the back? Ad what heatsink do you have? Sorry for all the questions but my temps seem rather weird to me I use to have 2 (the two furthest back)but went back to 3 when I made my air tunnel it pushes the air directly into my cpu fan. My top 3 exhaust are low cfm (40's) and don't suck up the streamed air. My rear fan is an exhaust so air is going out the back and I have the Megahalem CPU cooler in east/west push pull. I also replaced my stock bottom intake and HDD fans and will probably replace my exhaust the next time I order anything else. If you don't want to go through the hassle of making a column of shrouds like I did I would suggest this product. Not sure if it actually does what it says but its cheap. My bottom intake fan is a 93cfm 140mm fan from Koolance purchased at the same site. Don't worry about all the questions ask away and I will answer the best I can Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havox Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 I use to have 2 (the two furthest back)but went back to 3 when I made my air tunnel it pushes the air directly into my cpu fan. My top 3 exhaust are low cfm (40's) and don't suck up the streamed air. My rear fan is an exhaust so air is going out the back and I have the Megahalem CPU cooler in east/west push pull. I also replaced my stock bottom intake and HDD fans and will probably replace my exhaust the next time I order anything else. If you don't want to go through the hassle of making a column of shrouds like I did I would suggest this product. Not sure if it actually does what it says but its cheap. My bottom intake fan is a 93cfm 140mm fan from Koolance purchased at the same site. Don't worry about all the questions ask away and I will answer the best I can Ok thanks forte help, is there room for 2 140mm fans on very bottom where the hdd mount is? Or is your fan where above the psu compartment. I will look into orderingreplacement 140mms thoug the hotswap coolers I think I will leave since they don't do much for intake. I saw the beamair but couldn't find in Canada so I guess my order is coming from performance pcs. For now I will turn my true east to west and see if I get any benefit. Weird thing is tho when my temps are I the 50s the heatsink didn't seem too warm. Maybe it's not mounted properly I will have to check. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swalker23 Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Ok thanks forte help, is there room for 2 140mm fans on very bottom where the hdd mount is? Or is your fan where above the psu compartment. I will look into orderingreplacement 140mms thoug the hotswap coolers I think I will leave since they don't do much for intake. I saw the beamair but couldn't find in Canada so I guess my order is coming from performance pcs. For now I will turn my true east to west and see if I get any benefit. Weird thing is tho when my temps are I the 50s the heatsink didn't seem too warm. Maybe it's not mounted properly I will have to check. Thanks again! I just replaced the ones in the stock spots. The one beside the PSU for case intake and the one that blows on the HDD's. Reseating your heatsink might help I had to do that before on a build awhile ago using another Heatsink. Also what brand T.I.M. are you using that could also factor in your temps but not by much though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havox Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 I just replaced the ones in the stock spots. The one beside the PSU for case intake and the one that blows on the HDD's. Reseating your heatsink might help I had to do that before on a build awhile ago using another Heatsink. Also what brand T.I.M. are you using that could also factor in your temps but not by much though. Ok I guess I will replace the stock fans with higher cfm ones. The TIM was just the stuff that came with my TRUE but I have some mx2 somewhere at home I will put on. If it is the heatsink not seated properly I won't be impressed since ncix assembled it. Also I may look at putting a 200 mm fan on the plexiglass but I don't really war to haveto cut it. I may do mesh but I think for now I will replace all stock fans and see if I can ad a few more to the bottom by psy and hdd cage. Also I wil put an intake on the front and some fans on the top. Kinda disapointed that I already payed 300 fr this case now I have to invest another 100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slamscaper Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Ok I guess I will replace the stock fans with higher cfm ones. The TIM was just the stuff that came with my TRUE but I have some mx2 somewhere at home I will put on. If it is the heatsink not seated properly I won't be impressed since ncix assembled it. Also I may look at putting a 200 mm fan on the plexiglass but I don't really war to haveto cut it. I may do mesh but I think for now I will replace all stock fans and see if I can ad a few more to the bottom by psy and hdd cage. Also I wil put an intake on the front and some fans on the top. Kinda disapointed that I already payed 300 fr this case now I have to invest another 100. You don't have to cut the side panel to add a fan, trust me. The main thing you need to do is replace the stock fans (you can leave the 140mm hdd fan if you like) with higher-CFM fans. In my experience with this case, having a high-CFM 140mm fan at the bottom is most important. Then, you need to flip the back fan and add at least two exhaust fans at the top. Performing these steps will drastically lower your temps. If you don't mind spending a little extra dough, the H50 works wonders in this case and performs very well when you install the radiator to the back of the case with a 120mm intake blowing right onto it. My i7 920@3.6 Ghz idles at 30-33 deg C and only reaches 55-57 under load in Prime95 deg C using the H50 in this configuration. I'm also running two GTX 280's in SLI and they stay reasonably cool even when playing Crysis, and these cards are known for running very hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havox Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 You don't have to cut the side panel to add a fan, trust me. The main thing you need to do is replace the stock fans (you can leave the 140mm hdd fan if you like) with higher-CFM fans. In my experience with this case, having a high-CFM 140mm fan at the bottom is most important. Then, you need to flip the back fan and add at least two exhaust fans at the top. Performing these steps will drastically lower your temps. If you don't mind spending a little extra dough, the H50 works wonders in this case and performs very well when you install the radiator to the back of the case with a 120mm intake blowing right onto it. My i7 920@3.6 Ghz idles at 30-33 deg C and only reaches 55-57 under load in Prime95 deg C using the H50 in this configuration. I'm also running two GTX 280's in SLI and they stay reasonably cool even when playing Crysis, and these cards are known for running very hot. I'm thinking of it. Sucks though since I just got the whole system a few days ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havox Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 if I were to buy the h50 should I have a 120 or 140 mm fan for rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slamscaper Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 if I were to buy the h50 should I have a 120 or 140 mm fan for rear? You have no choice in this matter as the H50's radiator MUST be installed with a 120mm fan. This is by design. Scythe makes a few 140mm fans that are drilled for a 120mm template. These fans MAY work but I'm not sure of their thickness (may possibly need to mod your own screws for these to work). I'd just get a 120mm fan as you'll know for sure it's going to work. There are many, many quality fans to choose from at this size that can run at any speed you desire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havox Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 I have two scythe 120mm fans on my TRUE right now that move 88cfm and are 33 db. Kaze jyumis. Would the be efficiant? If not what would you recomend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slamscaper Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Well, those fans should work fine esp in a push pull config as the H50's radiator will allow two 120mm fans to be installed on both sides. I myself am not using two fans with my H50 because my particular mobo has a chipset cooler that protrudes a bit too high to allow a second fan to be installed. I'm using one Scythe "slipstream" 120mm KAZE JYUNI intake that spins at up to 1900 rpm (max), moves 110.31 CFM (max), and has a noise level of 37.00 dBA (max). This fan works great, but I'd make sure that you have a fan controller of some sort if you use one rated this fast as it can get loud at it's highest setting. My mobo would not let me control the rpm of this fan, so I used a ZAL fan mate 2 controller I had laying around. I set it to around 1500 rpm, which is a good compromise between airflow and noise. I always have the option to crank it up to max when it's a little warm in my house or I'm doing some heavy gaming or encoding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havox Posted October 12, 2009 Author Share Posted October 12, 2009 I might just stick with the fans I have now or buy the 38mm kaze. Mine aren't too loud and stil move lots of air at 1600rpm. Now I gotta find someone looking for a TRUE Black any takers?:D: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murjo Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Hi guys, Since I live my system up and running all the time, I've been wondering what is estimated life of the H50? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havox Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Didn't end up getting h50 stickin with the tied and TRUE :D anyways I would go with a good heatsink if I were you. Not to bash the H50 but its a 120mm rad with a weaker bump and little coolant which isn't exactly the best cooling for a i7. If you want wc then do it right otherwise stick with a good ole megahalem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murjo Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 I don't want to bash it either, but Noctua, Megahalems and some others offer almost identical temps and the both the H50 and the regular heatsinks use 120mm fans...with the proper setup and airflow inside the case one shouldn't have problems at all and no worries for burning the HS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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